polperro to portwrinkle

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 7th june 2016

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. This is getting monotonous. Woop! Those temperatures don't look too hot though.

Fowey high tide 08:00

Fowey low tide 14:18

It's my birthday today so what better way to spend it than walking the charming walk from Polperro to Portwrinkle.

happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me

I start the day back at the car park above Polperro and wander down through the village back to the harbour.

Along the way I pass The Ship Inn and The Three Pilchards, the oldest pub in Polperro.

The Ship Inn

The Three Pilchards

I explore around the harbour for a while but the sun is out and the skies are blue. It's time to get going.

I turn on to the coast path next to the House on the Props

house on the props

The path goes along The Warren and I have fine views back over the harbour before climbing back up on the cliffs towards Downend Point. 

polperro harbour

The path is smothered in wild flowers so I amble along taking photographs.

The path should round Downend Point and pass a granite war memorial but a diversion is in place and I head inland next to a field of wheat. I join a tiny road which takes me steeply down towards Talland Bay where I have misty views.

misty view over talland bay

I come across a couple of tame rabbits. They eye me up and then continue munching on the grass. I continue along the path and drop down to Talland Bay where I enjoy the deserted beaches.

talland bay

Talland Bay has two sand and shingle beaches - Talland Sand and Rotterdam Beach. The Talland Bay Beach Cafe is passed followed by the Smuggler's Rest Cafe. The low cliffs here are covered in dreaded Japanese Knotweed.

japanese knotweed on cliffs

The path reaches Hendersick and then passes the Hore Stone, just offshore, and there is a misty view over Portnadler Bay to St George's Island, sometimes known as Looe Island. The island is now managed by the Cornwal Wildlife Trust.

misty st george's island

The path passes by Samphire Beach and Wallace Beach where I come across some lovely flower borders.

The path continues around Hannafore Point and I come across loads of painted lady butterflies feeding on sea thrift and I manage to photograph one or two of them.

painted lady

Hannafore Beach can be found here which is mostly rocky but does contain some sand and shingle. Not today though as the tide is too far in. I do have fine views over to Looe though.

looking over to looe

looe harbour

The path continues down a road and then drops down to the harbourside at Looe.

dropping down to looe

You can catch a ferry over from West Looe to East Looe allegedly but I've never seen it. Instead, I head along the harbourside where I pass a bronze statue of Nelson, a distinctive one eyed scarred bull grey seal who was a familiar sight in the harbours of South Cornwall for over 25 years.

nelson

 I continue along the harbourside and use the roadbridge to cross the River Looe where I have lovely views back along the harbour, on the way passing the Harbour Moon Inn

view back along looe harbour

I continue walking down the harbourside at East Looe, passing the Ship Inn and The Bullers Arms and take one last look at the harbour before climbing out of Looe high above East Looe Beach, sitting quite literally in front of the old town.

overlooking east looe beach

The path climbs steeply out of Looe and passes Chough Rock - I don't see any Choughs. I come across more japanese knotweed as I walk down the slipway to reach Plaidy Beach, a small, grey sand beach popular with dog walkers.

plaidy beach

A steep path goes upwards before heading back down to Millendreath Beach, a sandy beach with numerous rock pools to explore at low tide. The beach is just starting to get busy with a few families arriving as I explore the beach.

millendreath beach

Due to a series of landslips the coast path has been re-routed but it seems to be much more open than I recall from my last visit as I seem to remember trudging along roads for a few miles.

The path climbs up Bodigga Cliff and then goes through woods for a while. The shady path is very welcome on what has now become a hot day. The path rejoins the road where I pass by the Monkey Sanctuary.

monkey sanctuary

I continue along a minor road festooned with flowers for a little bit and then am pleasantly surprised to see a coast path sign pointing back on to the cliffs at Struddicks. I head through fields to re-join the coast path and it's a thoroughly pleasant walk.

minor road festooned with flowers

The path drops back down to the road above Seaton but it's not very far down and I soon have fine views over Seaton.

view over seaton

The beach at Seaton is a spacious grey sand beach popular with families and you can find the Seaton Beach Cafe and The Smugglers Inn here.

seaton beach

I amble along Seaton Beach and the tide is far enough out for me to continue along Downderry Beach, a sheltered beach made of grey sand and shingle with rock pools at low tide. 

downderry beach

The wreck of ‘Gypsy’, the sister ship to the ‘Cutty Sark,’ is hidden under a kelp bed not far from the shore line. I passed underneath the Inn on the Shore at the far end of Downderry Beach.

After leaving Downderry the path passes The Church of St Nicolas and Downderry Lodge and climbs up to Battern Cliffs. The path here is narrow, overgrown and full of nettles so I have to concentrate on walking rather than looking at the views.

The path improves and the views are magnificent, if a little hazy.

hazy view towards portwrinkle

I continue along the cliff tops and have lovely views over Portwrinkle.

view over portwrinkle

The path reaches the village of Portwrinkle passing the tiny harbour. There are two sand and shingle beaches here with numerous rock pools.

portwrinkle harbour

boat in portwrinkle harbour

It's time for a couple more flower photographs and then my walking is done for the day and it's time to get my lift back to our home from home for the week.

red hot poker

red valerian

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • agapanthus
  • gladioli
  • red campion
  • creeping broomrape
  • roses
  • fuchsias
  • red valerian
  • white valerian
  • herb robert
  • elderflower
  • pheasants
  • skylarks
  • field poppies
  • rabbits
  • chiffchaffs
  • painted lady butterflies
  • japanese knotweed
  • oystercatchers
  • blue tits
  • wrens
  • a bronze seal
  • MONKEYS!!
  • scots pine
  • red admirals
  • the last of the bluebells

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15 miles today which amounts to 33850 steps. It has been sunny and hot and a thoroughly pleasant day's walking. For a third day on the trot I haven't been stung by stinging nettles. What better way to spend a birthday? Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 762.60 metres or 2501 feet.

video

map

polperro

rose

agapanthus

painted lady

beach collection

polmear to polperro

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SUNDAY, 5TH june 2016

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Temperatures aren't going to be particularly high so should make for perfect walking weather.

Par Sands high tide 06:19

Par Sands low tide 12:46

I start the day back at the car park behind the sand dunes at Par Sands and head out onto the murky beach.

murky par sands

I head inland slightly to the Ship Inn at Polmear where the coast path heads behind the pub and up back onto the low cliff tops and I have murky views back over Par Sands.

ship inn, polmear

I immediately come across my first orchids of the week, a small patch of (not so) early purple orchids.

early purple orchid

I head onwards towards the harbour at Polkerris and I have lovely views over the harbour. I can hear people swimming in the sea.

overlooking polkerris

I drop down to the beach, passing Sams on the Beach based in the old  Polkerris lifeboat station. Opposite is the Rashleigh Inn where thirsty walkers can stop for a nice pint. It's way too early for me though and the pub's not open anyway. A sandy, crescent shaped, south west facing beach can be found here and there are indeed a couple of people swimming in the sea.

polkerris

I enjoy wandering along the beach before heading back to the coast path where I pass through woods smelling of garlic before heading around Gribbin Head. I enjoy the wild flowers here which are looking at their best.

I pass below the 84 foot red and white Gribbin daymark, erected in 1832, enabling sailors to pinpoint the approach to Fowey's harbour, and head on down the slopes. Several joggers pass me on the slopes. The slopes are covered in wild flowers. 

The path descends to the south facing beach at Polridmouth Cove, which actually consists of two beaches. The first beach is packed with a father, son and dog playing on the beach but the second beach is completely deserted, so I wander along the beach for a bit, enjoying the solitude.

polridmouth cove

deserted polridmouth cove

I head up onto Lankelly Cliff and Southground Cliffs. I pass Coombe Haven which is also completely deserted.

coombe haven

The sun is starting to break through the mist and it's starting to get rather hot. I have lovely, if misty views, over to Polruan.

misty view over to polruan

I continue to Penventinue Cove passing the remains of St Catherine's Castle, one of a pair of small artillery forts built by Henry VIII in the 1530s to defend Fowey Harbour.

st catherine's castle

I now have lovely views over to Fowey.

view over fowey

 I continue along the coast path and arrive at Readymoney Cove Beach, a small, sheltered sandy beach. It's a little busier here with a few people enjoying the beach.

readymoney cove

I head along Readymoney Road where I take up with local dog walkers and then head along the Esplanade which takes me on to Fowey. I have more lovely views over to Polruan.

views over polruan

The ferry crosses the river above the centre of Fowey at Whitehouse slipway so I see very little of Fowey. I wait for my ferry crossing on the slipway and catch the Lady Jean ferry over to Polruan.

catching the ferry at whitehose slipway

The ferry crossing takes five minutes, I guess, and costs me the princely sum of £2. I depart the ferry at Polruan and wait for my fellow passengers to disperse so that I can enjoy the fine views along the River Fowey.

departing the ferry

river fowey

After crossing the River Fowey a small, sandy beach can be found at Polruan Quay unless the tide is in, which it isn't today.

sandy beach at polruan quay

I continue on my walk at the Lugger Inn on The Quay at Polruan before passing Polruan's second pub the Russell Inn. Although it is still relatively early, both pubs seem to be open but it's time for some serious walking.

lugger inn

russell inn

I climb out of Polruan and enjoy the lovely views over the village.

view over polruan

The path climbs to reach the National Coastwatch Station where I have some magnificent final views back over the Fowey estuary. It is starting to get very hot now.

view back over fowey estuary

I continue along the coast path towards Lantic Bay and ignore the coast path signs and, instead, head down the steep climb to the beach, passing foxgloves enjoying the view over the beach.

foxgloves over lantic bay

A white sand and shingle beach is found at Lantic Bay, and is one of the finest beaches on the South West Coast Path. Due to its isolation it is normally very quiet but there are quite a few people on it today.

On leaving the beach the path heads towards Pencarrow Head where I have some final magnificent views back over Lantic Bay. 

view back over lantic bay

I enjoy more wild flowers on the rugged coast.

The path becomes a roller-coaster ride passing over Watch House Cove, Palace Cove and Sandheap Point before dropping steeply into West Combe and over a footbridge above a waterfall. The coast path turns to the left but I head to the right instead to gain access to the lovely Lansallos Beach.

waterfall above lansallos beach

The beach is a small, sheltered sand and shingle beach and, as far as I know, is in the middle of nowhere but for some reason is heaving with people!. It's not even marked on my Ordnance Survey map.

heaving lansallos beach

I enjoy the beach for a while but it's time to tackle the tough last section of coast to Polperro.

leaving lansallos beach

Back on the coast path I pass a group of ponies who seem to have descended on a family having lunch.

ponies

More footbridges are encountered before passing an obelisk daymark.

daymark

The going around here is tough and I just seem to go up and down cliffs. I pass by Broad Cove, Shag Rock, West Penslake Cove, Penslake Cove, Blackybale Point, Colors Cove and Nealand Point and I have fine views over towards Polperro although the village is out of view, tucked away behind its harbour.

Chapel Cliff is reached and then I come across a rocky patch, finally with fine views over Polperro's harbour.

polperro

The path climbs down to the village where steps take me down to the harbour. A small, sandy beach can be found here just outside of the harbour wall, only available at low tide but the harbour is teeming with people so I head back past the Blue Peter Inn and by the fish landing area where a fisherman is busily shucking scallops.

blue peter inn

At the head of the harbour I head up the village near to the House on the Props.

polperro harbour

I finish the day by wandering up through the rather busy village to the car park at the top of the village. On the way I stop off to thirstily suck on an orange Calippo ice lolly. Utter bliss! It has been a hot, hot end to the day.

polperro village

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • foxgloves
  • early purple orchids
  • goldfinches
  • sheep
  • ribwort plantain
  • house martins
  • wild garlic
  • red campion
  • chiffchaffs
  • skylarks
  • a heron
  • red admirals
  • peacock butterflies
  • oystercatchers
  • stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.6 miles today which amounts to 36613 steps. It has been magnificent walking today in what turned out to be very hot weather. Doesn't get much better than this. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 737.10 metres or 2418 feet.

video

map

early purple orchid

sea thrift on gribbin head

overlooking the fowey estuary

polperro

beach collection

mevagissey to polmear

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

Saturday, 4TH june 2016

It looks like I'll have a lovely day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Woop! The temperatures don't look very high particularly as there is very little in the way of wind but it should make for perfect walking weather.

Par Sands high tide 05:27

Par Sands low tide 11:56

I wake early. The birds are making a terrible racket out in the garden and I have a fine view of the sunrise over Lanlivery village.

sunrise over lanlivery

Today's walk starts at the car park above Mevagissey. I descend down to the harbour. It's early and the harbour hasn't really got going yet.

mevagissey harbour

I do a bit of exploration and pass the Wheelhouse Inn, the Harbour TavernThe Sharks Fin (@sharksfin_meva), The Fountain InnThe Ship Inn and the Cellar Bar before heading around the harbour towards Mevagissey Museum.

mevagissey harbour

I climb up out of Mevagissey where I have lovely views back over the harbour.

overlooking mevagissey

I pass by the coastguard lookout and the path heads behind houses on the outskirts of Mevagissey and the walk continues around Penare Point where the fields are full of cows. I now have lovely views over Pentewan Beach.

overlooking pentewan

I descend to Pentewan Beach and the Pentewan Sands Holiday Park. The official coast path route skirts around Pentewan Beach, presumably because the beach is privately owned. I head for the beach anyway and, technically, do a bit of trespassing.

trespassing on pentewan beach

At the end of the beach a path takes me back to the official coast path at Pentewan village.

Pentewan apparently means 'foot of the radiant stream' but I fail to find the said stream. The village and harbour here date back to medieval times and although the harbour was once important for shipping china clay it is now entirely cut off from the sea.

I take a footbridge over the harbour entrance and then round the harbour to reach the The Ship Inn.

the ship inn

The path leaves the square in Pentewan village and then climbs steeply up Pentewan Hill and past All Saints Church. Rooks are making an awful racket in the trees here.

all saints church

The path passes Polrudden Cove and reaches Hallane Mill. On a previous visit the paths here were full of stinging nettles so I got stung to buggery but someone has been overzealous with the strimmer and the path has been strimmed to within an inch of its life.

The wild flowers are looking at their finest.

I finally find some shade in woods where chaffinches are competing with each other. The house at Hallane is deserted and the statues which used to be in the garden here are gone. I just find a couple of lonely sculptures partially hidden in the long grass. 

sculpture in long grass

I drop down to Hallane Beach expecting to find it deserted but a group of canoeists have just arrived.

canoeists at hallane beach

The path continues towards Black Head and passes a big granite block in memory of the Cornish poet A L Rowse.

A L ROWSE CH
1903-1997
POET AND HISTORIAN

LEF A GERNOW
VOICE OF CORNWALL

THIS WAS THE LAND
OF MY CONTENT

memorial to a l rowse

The wild flowers continue to delight.

Rounding the memorial stone the path heads for some woodland and then climbs up along Ropehaven Cliffs to Trenarren House. I now have magnificent, if hazy, views over St Austell Bay.

hazy views over st austell bay

I enter woods where I temporarily get lost before passing Gwendra Point, Silvermine Point and Phoebe's Point and then drop down to the village of Porthpean where there is a lovely, sandy beach. The beach is home to Porthpean Sailing Club and the Porthpean Beach Cafe can be found here.

porthpean beach

A short walk over Carrickowel Point takes me to Du Porth Beach which means 'two coves' in Cornish. The beach is privately owned but accessible to the public and it's much quieter than Porthpean Beach.

du porth beach

I wander along the beach to the far end but the exit gate is locked and so I have to retrace my steps along the beach.

I regain the coast path and it takes me behind back gardens where I pass the Crinnis Cliff Battery, constructed around 1793 to defend the entrance to the new harbour at Charlestown. I climb down to reach Charlestown, an unspoilt example of a late Georgian working port, originally used to export copper and import coal but subsequently used to export china clay.

overlooking charlestown

Nowadays it is much more recognized as a television and film location and has been used for The Onedin Line (Blimey! that was a long time ago!!), The Eagle has Landed, Longitude, Apocalypto and Doctor Who amongst others. 

The sand and pebble beach here sits just outside the harbour. I have a spot of lunch here looking out over the harbour before setting off again.

I pass by the Pier House Hotel and Restaurant and  The Harbourside Inn before rounding the harbour. The Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre is found at the head of the harbour.

I regain the cliffs and pass in front of Porth Avallen Hotel where I come across more wild flowers but also a patch of the dreaded japanese knotweed.

The path continues in front of Carlyon Bay Hotel before I descend down a concrete ramp to Carlyon Bay.

Carlyon Bay consists of three beaches, Crinnis, Polgaver and Shorthorn, and once upon a time it was lovely around here but on my previous visits had turned into an eyesore with the Cornwall Coliseum at the top of Crinnis Beach gradually falling into disrepair. The Coliseum was finally demolished in the Spring of 2015.

A series of poor planning decisions over a number of years has ruined Carlyon Bay and disgruntled the local residents, but the place looks like it is finally being redeveloped and there are plans to create a new beachside village with homes, restaurants, bars and cafes. Let's hope that the place finally gets back to the way it should be. There are still lines of steel shuttering,  piles of ugly boulders and fences everywhere. Yuk!! But at least the beach is looking much more like a family beach again. You can keep up with developments at the Carlyon Bay Watch website.

carlyon bay

carlyon bay

families on carlyon bay

There's even some pop up shops on the beach hinting at what may come including Ostraca Pop Up Oyster Bar and Sam's @ The Bay.

pop up shops on carlyon bay

It's not clear to me whether there is an exit point at the far end of the beach so I head back up the concrete ramp to rejoin the coast path where it continues alongside the Carlyon Bay Golf Course and towards a disused china clay works at Spit Point.

I find a beach which is normally deserted just before reaching the china clay works but it's actually quite busy today. It is unmarked on my Ordnance Survey map but must be Spit Point Beach.

spit point beach

I enjoy the beach here before walking through the deserted and dusty china clay works to reach the hideously busy A3082. A lorry driver has suddenly decided that his lorry won't go under the 11 foot 9 inch railway bridge and is causing chaos by reversing back up the road.

The path continues past the Port of Par and then through the village of Par passing the Church of the Good Shepherd.

church of the good shepherd

The coast path should lead down to Par Beach but on previous visits I haven't found any signs but I'm determined this time so I continue past the Welcome Home pub and finally find a sign pointing out the coast path. The signs dry up again but I follow a convoluted path which finally leads me to the beach at Par Sands.

par sands

I wander along the sandy beach and at the far end walk through the sand dunes to reach my lift at the car park.

My wide angle lens seems to be faulty so I might have to swap it for my cheap 18-55 lens for the rest of the holiday.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • chaffinches
  • chiffchaffs
  • red campion
  • foxgloves
  • speckled wood butterfiles
  • cows
  • sea thrift
  • house martins
  • rooks
  • bluebells
  • sheep
  • honeysuckle
  • swallows
  • skylarks
  • buzzards
  • elderflower
  • bird's-foot trefoil
  • kidney vetch
  • bladder campion
  • greater stitchwort

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.7 miles today which amounts to 34019 steps. After a misty start it turned into a lovely day with blue skies and it was properly hot. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 708.60 metres or 2324 feet.

Video

map

mevagissey harbour

view over pentewan

foxgloves

beach collection

abbotsbury to ferrybridge

south west coast path

wednesday, 11th may 2016

The weather forecast for today doesn't look too bad, if a little on the cold side, but it's a proper manky day as we arrive at Abbotsbury. It's raining, gloomy and foggy and it doesn't look as if it's going away any time soon.

Chesil Beach high tide: 11:04

Chesil Beach low tide: 16:20

Today's walk is perhaps, on paper, not the most exciting walk, largely being inland due to the presence of Chesil Beach, but it's great to be back walking on the Dorset coast. Apparently Chesil Beach consists of 180 billion pebbles but I've not got time to count them all.

TODAY'S GEOLOGY LESSON

At the end of the last ice age about 10000 years ago sea levels rose as the ice melted. Beaches made of sand, gravel and mud were driven inland. These joined to form the first Chesil Beach.

Since that time the sea has eroded enormous piles of debris created by landslides in the west. Thousands of tonnes of rock were turned into pebbles by the relentless power of the sea and washed eastward by longshore drift burying the older beaches and creating the Chesil Beach we see today.

 

 

Today's walk starts at the car park behind Chesil Beach just before Abbotsbury. The waterproof jacket gets straight on as I head down to the beach to admire it's majesty before heading back to the coast path. The path detours inland towards Chapel Hill where St Catherine's Chapel can be seen. At least it could if it wasn't so foggy. The photographs aren't going to be good today.

a gloomy chesil beach

Great! I don't have a mobile phone signal!!

I slip and slide over shingle behind Chesil Beach before trampling through damp fields to reach Abbotsbury Swannery and then take to grassy hills with some lovely views back over Chesil Beach, only I can't see anything in the fog.

The path passes above Clayhanger Farm and through loads of fields with the coast at some distance. In places the path is muddy, slippery and nettle infested. This is not a good start to the day, especially as it is now May.

I continue through sodden fields and even manage to come across a locked gate which I have to scramble over. WTF? The song birds don't seem to mind it around here though as they are making a magnificent racket.

I eventually come to a field of rape above Rodden Hive. This is supposed to be a promising spot for birds but all I can see is a solitary heron fishing in the Fleet.

rape above rodden hive

I continue along the coast path to reach West Fleet with a view over to Herbury Island. One high point of the day is that there are skylarks all over the place and they are making a terrible racket. I even stop to record one male skylark who hangs in the air for three and a half minutes chirping away.

a gloomy view over herbury island

a gloomy view over herbury island

The Fleet Lagoon, at 8 miles long, is the largest inland tidal lagoon in Britain. It has many designations including being a Special Area of Conservation under the European Union Habitats Directive, is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, a Special Protection Area under the European Union Birds Directive and a Ramsar Site (wetlands of international importance designated under the Ramsar Convention).

The path continues past Gore Cove and the Moonfleet Manor Hotel and Restaurant, named after J.M. Falkner’s novel Moonfleet in which he describes a lake of brackish water full of “sea-fowl, herons, and oysters ... shut off from the open Channel by a monstrous great beach or dike of pebbles”.

Hmmmm ….. I still don't have a phone signal.

 East Fleet Touring Park can be found here and some gallops are close by but I don't see any horses today. I do come across some wall brown butterflies fluttering around though.

wall brown butterfly

I attempt to take some photographs of the wild flowers around here but even they prove to be of the boring variety. I manage to find buttercups, daisies, dandelions, ribwort plantain and hogweed. I do finally see a bit of blue sky though.

blue sky!

 I continue along the shore to reach East Fleet where the remains of Old Church can be found. Only the chancel remains and the rest of the church was destroyed in a storm in 1824 which breached Chesil Beach. A herd of friendly cows greets me here.

cows

That's about where the friendliness ends though as barbed wire seems to be covering every bit of wood I cling on to and I'm threatened by electric fencing.

I come across a blue butterfly but I have no idea how to tell the different species apart. Maybe a holly blue?

holly blue butterfly?

Chickerell Rifle Range is reached and I'm threatened by more signs. The red flags weren't flying today so I was able to cross through the range without any problems. It's a stinky, rutted, muddy path though. I do come across some dog-violets which try to brighten the day..

dog-violet

I come across one of the mankiest, overgrown, muddy and slippery, nettle infested footpaths I've ever come across and I'm now cursing the fact that I haven't had a mobile phone signal all day.

I carry on to reach Lynch Cove before having to head inland again to bypass the Wyke Regis Army Training Area. There doesn't seem to be any training going on.

I continue back to the coast before finally reaching a beach at Pirate's Cove. The path passes in front of a caravan site and the Crab House Cafe. It occupies a ragged boatyard of a site overlooking the eastern end of the Fleet lagoon, just before the bridge to the Isle of Portland.

ferrybridge

I finally come across some colour in the form of clumps of sea thrift.

sea thrift

I pass the Ferrybridge Inn at Ferrybridge which from behind looks like it is unoccupied - what a lovely sight to see - before heading on to the end of the walk at the Ferrybridge car park next to Chesil Beach Visitors Centre.

chesil beach centre

I still don't have a mobile phone signal. WTF! And none of my gps tracking apps have worked today. Turns out that on rebooting my phone I do have a perfectly good signal so I may well have had a decent signal all day if I'd done that at the start of the walk.

We drive past the Ferrybridge Inn on our way back to our cottage and it is indeed boarded up. What a sad end to the day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • sheep
  • pheasants
  • chiff chaffs
  • song thrush
  • watercress
  • swans
  • rooks
  • skylarks
  • chaffinches
  • rape
  • herons
  • little egrets
  • cormorants
  • wall brown butterflies
  • red admiral butterflies
  • friendly cows
  • housemartins

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked I don't know how many miles today - maybe 12 miles - as my phone failed me, which amounts to 29199 steps. I'm torn by this walk as I love Dorset but the weather has been iffy, the paths have been overgrown, nettle infested, muddy, slippery, barbed wire encrusted, electric fencing bound, dog shooting threatening and militarized. To top all of that I've often been far from the sea and without a phone signal. Two out of ten! I may not be back here for a while.

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know. Did I mention that my phone failed me?

No map today as my phone failed me. It has not been a good day.

lyme regis to abbotsbury

south west coast path

monday, 9th may 2016

It feels like the last two days I've tested the good weather to its limits so I may well be back to manky 2016 weather later on today. Still, it's better than the weather forecast for tomorrow which doesn't look good. I was going to have a rest day today but due to tomorrow's forecast I've decided to continue walking.

Lyme Regis high tide: 09:15

Lyme Regis low tide: 14:43

I start the day back at the car park above Lyme Regis. A sign here tells me that there are 114 steps down to the foreshore. This is all new to me so I climb the steps down to the foreshore where I have a view of the Black Ven landslip and the coast path walk for the day is laid out in front of me.

I can see over to Golden Cap and in the distance, East Cliff and West Cliff at West Bay and Burton Bradstock and just beyond those, Chesil Beach stretches out to the Isle of Portland. This is one of my favourite stretches of coast on the whole coast path.

 I climb back up to the Charmouth Road Car Park where a sign tells me about the recent developments here. The Church Cliff to East Cliff stabilisation works were completed in 2014 at a cost of £19.5 million, providing protection to around 400 metres of the coastline and 480 properties. It includes the new footpath I've just walked on from the new sea wall to Charmouth Road Car Park.

 Today's walk has typically in the past been dogged by landslips resulting in several inland diversions starting with an inland diversion at Lyme Regis and probably ending with a slight diversion inland at Burton Bradstock.

I cross the car park and head upwards through fields and woods where I come across my first bluebells of the day.

bluebells

I'm then dumped out onto a busy road above Lyme Regis which I follow until a sign points me to a path through Lyme Regis Golf Club. Dorset golfers seem to be rubbish! I watch one person tee off, the golf ball hits a tree and the ball pings off 50 metres behind where he teed off. His second shot hits another tree and lands on a green but not the green he was aiming for.

I continue walking along the golf course and come to a path made of scallop shells. Here the coast path signs run out so after pondering which direction to take I head through some woods and I come out onto the main road into Charmouth next to the Fernhill Hotel.

It is now an uneventful walk through the back streets of Charmouth.

 It has been years since I've seen Charmouth because of the diversions so I decide that it is time I visited the beach here again so I head off of the coast path and descend down towards the beach where I come across some beach huts and the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre.

beach huts on charmouth beach

charmouth heritage coast centre

I wander along the beach here and do a bit of fossil hunting.

I head up from Charmouth Beach to rejoin the diverted coast path and gradually amble along the path, passing behind Seadown Holiday Park and past the fire station and the old toll house. I turn right at Stonebarrow Lane and it's now a steep and long climb upwards towards Stonebarrow Hill. I enjoy the wild flowers in the hedgerows.

I come to a break in the vegetation where I have lovely views from the lane back to Charmouth.

view from stonebarrow lane

I continue to the top of Stonebarrow Hill where I come across a National Trust shop located in an old radar station.

national trust shop

I have lovely views over to Golden Cap from up here.

view to golden cap

I head back down a footpath as it rejoins the coast just before Golden Cap, heading through a field full of buttercups.

buttercups as far as the eye can see

I climb slowly up on to the top of Golden Cap.

the climb up golden cap

It's a long way up at 627 feet and the highest point on the south coast. I enjoy the magnificent views from up here. In one direction I can see out to the Isle of Portland and in the other direction back to Lyme Regis and beyond.

golden cap back to lyme regis

golden cap towards the isle of portland

panorama from golden cap

Golden Cap is named after the distinctive outcrop of golden greensand rock at the tip of the cliff and is owned by the National Trust. There is a trigpoint up here which was covered in visitors.

I hang around for a while admiring the views before taking the long descent down to the Anchor Inn (@anchoratseatown) at Seatown.

anchor inn

I crunch my way across the pebbly beach before heading across a footbridge at the car park and then climb back onto the cliffs.

view back to seatown

I climb high above Seatown and then it's now another descent, this time down to the village of Eype where there's another pebbly beach at Eype Mouth

eype mouth

Another ascent and descent over cliffs takes me to the charming West Bay.

descending to west bay

I haven't brought any provisions with me today so I grab a bag of chips and happily munch on them next to the harbour, admiring the views out to sea.

I've lost count of the number of times I've visited West Bay, but it's an awful lot. I round the harbour passing The George (@georgewestbay), the Bridport Arms HotelThe West Bay Hotel (@westbayhotel), the amusement arcade and all of the food shacks dotted around the harbour.

west bay

I pass the newsagent where I grab a much needed ice lolly and then pass the fishmonger and head out onto the sandy beach. It's definitely a beach day today so I ignore the iconic, crumbling yellow sandstone East Cliff and walk along the beach instead.

east cliff

At Freshwater Beach Holiday Park I have to head inland in order to cross over the River Bride.

freshwater beach holiday park

Normally I'd continue inland to walk through Burton Bradstock but today I stay on the coast path and dart back out onto Burton Cliff which is also crumbling away. The weather is now closing in on me and it starts to rain and become foggy so it's time for my waterproof jacket.

The coast path diverts inland slightly towards Hive Beach due to a fatal cliff fall in 2012 and I pass Hive Beach Cafe (@hivebeachcafe) on my way back down to the beach.

TODAY'S GEOLOGY LESSON

The distinctive cliffs between West Bay and Burton Bradstock date from the early Jurassic period and are a bright yellow colour, made of 190 million year old yellow Bridport sandstone. 

Limestone beds made of Inferior Oolite, dating from the early to middle Jurassic period (180 million years or so ago) can be found below the cliffs.

 

 

 

I trudge my way above Hive Beach and then behind Cogden Beach before the coast path takes me inland behind Burton Mere. I continue on the path behind the beach and the path becomes shingle which is very difficult to walk along. I come across housemartins skimming across a stretch of water. I continue along the shingle to reach West Bexington where the beach is a lot more pebbly and noticeably now part of Chesil Beach.

The shingle path continues inland of the beach before finally becoming a metalled path and the walking becomes a lot easier. The weather improves slightly so it's off with the waterproof jacket and I can finally enjoy some more of the wild flowers around here. There are what appear to be some kind of allium, possibly crow garlic?, everywhere.

I continue along the path to reach the car park at Abbotsbury, and the end of today's walk. The views back along Chesil Beach where I've come from and onwards along tomorrow's walk should be magnificent, but unfortunately they are engulfed in fog.

Driving back to the cottage in the car, it doesn't half look and feel like I've walked a MASSIVE distance today! The body doesn't feel it though.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • swifts
  • magpies
  • rabbits
  • buzzards
  • wild garlic
  • bluebells
  • herb robert
  • ribwort plantain
  • garlic mustard
  • larches
  • cow parsley
  • primroses
  • lords and ladies
  • chiff chaffs
  • sparrows
  • blackbirds
  • speckled wood butterflies
  • peacock butterflies
  • orange tip butterflies
  • one sorry looking orchid
  • sea thrift
  • sea beet
  • skylarks
  • housemartins
  • cowslips
  • bladder campion
  • crow garlic?
  • bird's-foot trefoil
  • bittersweet
  • marestail

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 19.96 miles today - again, I wasn't expecting that distance - which amounts to 45196 steps. Blimey! I love this stretch of coast despite the inland diversions and some iffy weather at the end of the day doesn't spoil things. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 837.70 metres, helped by the ascent of Golden Cap, or 2748 feet.

cowslips

bugle