polperro to portwrinkle

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 7th june 2016

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. This is getting monotonous. Woop! Those temperatures don't look too hot though.

Fowey high tide 08:00

Fowey low tide 14:18

It's my birthday today so what better way to spend it than walking the charming walk from Polperro to Portwrinkle.

happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me

I start the day back at the car park above Polperro and wander down through the village back to the harbour.

Along the way I pass The Ship Inn and The Three Pilchards, the oldest pub in Polperro.

The Ship Inn

The Three Pilchards

I explore around the harbour for a while but the sun is out and the skies are blue. It's time to get going.

I turn on to the coast path next to the House on the Props

house on the props

The path goes along The Warren and I have fine views back over the harbour before climbing back up on the cliffs towards Downend Point. 

polperro harbour

The path is smothered in wild flowers so I amble along taking photographs.

The path should round Downend Point and pass a granite war memorial but a diversion is in place and I head inland next to a field of wheat. I join a tiny road which takes me steeply down towards Talland Bay where I have misty views.

misty view over talland bay

I come across a couple of tame rabbits. They eye me up and then continue munching on the grass. I continue along the path and drop down to Talland Bay where I enjoy the deserted beaches.

talland bay

Talland Bay has two sand and shingle beaches - Talland Sand and Rotterdam Beach. The Talland Bay Beach Cafe is passed followed by the Smuggler's Rest Cafe. The low cliffs here are covered in dreaded Japanese Knotweed.

japanese knotweed on cliffs

The path reaches Hendersick and then passes the Hore Stone, just offshore, and there is a misty view over Portnadler Bay to St George's Island, sometimes known as Looe Island. The island is now managed by the Cornwal Wildlife Trust.

misty st george's island

The path passes by Samphire Beach and Wallace Beach where I come across some lovely flower borders.

The path continues around Hannafore Point and I come across loads of painted lady butterflies feeding on sea thrift and I manage to photograph one or two of them.

painted lady

Hannafore Beach can be found here which is mostly rocky but does contain some sand and shingle. Not today though as the tide is too far in. I do have fine views over to Looe though.

looking over to looe

looe harbour

The path continues down a road and then drops down to the harbourside at Looe.

dropping down to looe

You can catch a ferry over from West Looe to East Looe allegedly but I've never seen it. Instead, I head along the harbourside where I pass a bronze statue of Nelson, a distinctive one eyed scarred bull grey seal who was a familiar sight in the harbours of South Cornwall for over 25 years.

nelson

 I continue along the harbourside and use the roadbridge to cross the River Looe where I have lovely views back along the harbour, on the way passing the Harbour Moon Inn

view back along looe harbour

I continue walking down the harbourside at East Looe, passing the Ship Inn and The Bullers Arms and take one last look at the harbour before climbing out of Looe high above East Looe Beach, sitting quite literally in front of the old town.

overlooking east looe beach

The path climbs steeply out of Looe and passes Chough Rock - I don't see any Choughs. I come across more japanese knotweed as I walk down the slipway to reach Plaidy Beach, a small, grey sand beach popular with dog walkers.

plaidy beach

A steep path goes upwards before heading back down to Millendreath Beach, a sandy beach with numerous rock pools to explore at low tide. The beach is just starting to get busy with a few families arriving as I explore the beach.

millendreath beach

Due to a series of landslips the coast path has been re-routed but it seems to be much more open than I recall from my last visit as I seem to remember trudging along roads for a few miles.

The path climbs up Bodigga Cliff and then goes through woods for a while. The shady path is very welcome on what has now become a hot day. The path rejoins the road where I pass by the Monkey Sanctuary.

monkey sanctuary

I continue along a minor road festooned with flowers for a little bit and then am pleasantly surprised to see a coast path sign pointing back on to the cliffs at Struddicks. I head through fields to re-join the coast path and it's a thoroughly pleasant walk.

minor road festooned with flowers

The path drops back down to the road above Seaton but it's not very far down and I soon have fine views over Seaton.

view over seaton

The beach at Seaton is a spacious grey sand beach popular with families and you can find the Seaton Beach Cafe and The Smugglers Inn here.

seaton beach

I amble along Seaton Beach and the tide is far enough out for me to continue along Downderry Beach, a sheltered beach made of grey sand and shingle with rock pools at low tide. 

downderry beach

The wreck of ‘Gypsy’, the sister ship to the ‘Cutty Sark,’ is hidden under a kelp bed not far from the shore line. I passed underneath the Inn on the Shore at the far end of Downderry Beach.

After leaving Downderry the path passes The Church of St Nicolas and Downderry Lodge and climbs up to Battern Cliffs. The path here is narrow, overgrown and full of nettles so I have to concentrate on walking rather than looking at the views.

The path improves and the views are magnificent, if a little hazy.

hazy view towards portwrinkle

I continue along the cliff tops and have lovely views over Portwrinkle.

view over portwrinkle

The path reaches the village of Portwrinkle passing the tiny harbour. There are two sand and shingle beaches here with numerous rock pools.

portwrinkle harbour

boat in portwrinkle harbour

It's time for a couple more flower photographs and then my walking is done for the day and it's time to get my lift back to our home from home for the week.

red hot poker

red valerian

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • agapanthus
  • gladioli
  • red campion
  • creeping broomrape
  • roses
  • fuchsias
  • red valerian
  • white valerian
  • herb robert
  • elderflower
  • pheasants
  • skylarks
  • field poppies
  • rabbits
  • chiffchaffs
  • painted lady butterflies
  • japanese knotweed
  • oystercatchers
  • blue tits
  • wrens
  • a bronze seal
  • MONKEYS!!
  • scots pine
  • red admirals
  • the last of the bluebells

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15 miles today which amounts to 33850 steps. It has been sunny and hot and a thoroughly pleasant day's walking. For a third day on the trot I haven't been stung by stinging nettles. What better way to spend a birthday? Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 762.60 metres or 2501 feet.

video

map

polperro

rose

agapanthus

painted lady

beach collection

polmear to polperro

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SUNDAY, 5TH june 2016

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Temperatures aren't going to be particularly high so should make for perfect walking weather.

Par Sands high tide 06:19

Par Sands low tide 12:46

I start the day back at the car park behind the sand dunes at Par Sands and head out onto the murky beach.

murky par sands

I head inland slightly to the Ship Inn at Polmear where the coast path heads behind the pub and up back onto the low cliff tops and I have murky views back over Par Sands.

ship inn, polmear

I immediately come across my first orchids of the week, a small patch of (not so) early purple orchids.

early purple orchid

I head onwards towards the harbour at Polkerris and I have lovely views over the harbour. I can hear people swimming in the sea.

overlooking polkerris

I drop down to the beach, passing Sams on the Beach based in the old  Polkerris lifeboat station. Opposite is the Rashleigh Inn where thirsty walkers can stop for a nice pint. It's way too early for me though and the pub's not open anyway. A sandy, crescent shaped, south west facing beach can be found here and there are indeed a couple of people swimming in the sea.

polkerris

I enjoy wandering along the beach before heading back to the coast path where I pass through woods smelling of garlic before heading around Gribbin Head. I enjoy the wild flowers here which are looking at their best.

I pass below the 84 foot red and white Gribbin daymark, erected in 1832, enabling sailors to pinpoint the approach to Fowey's harbour, and head on down the slopes. Several joggers pass me on the slopes. The slopes are covered in wild flowers. 

The path descends to the south facing beach at Polridmouth Cove, which actually consists of two beaches. The first beach is packed with a father, son and dog playing on the beach but the second beach is completely deserted, so I wander along the beach for a bit, enjoying the solitude.

polridmouth cove

deserted polridmouth cove

I head up onto Lankelly Cliff and Southground Cliffs. I pass Coombe Haven which is also completely deserted.

coombe haven

The sun is starting to break through the mist and it's starting to get rather hot. I have lovely, if misty views, over to Polruan.

misty view over to polruan

I continue to Penventinue Cove passing the remains of St Catherine's Castle, one of a pair of small artillery forts built by Henry VIII in the 1530s to defend Fowey Harbour.

st catherine's castle

I now have lovely views over to Fowey.

view over fowey

 I continue along the coast path and arrive at Readymoney Cove Beach, a small, sheltered sandy beach. It's a little busier here with a few people enjoying the beach.

readymoney cove

I head along Readymoney Road where I take up with local dog walkers and then head along the Esplanade which takes me on to Fowey. I have more lovely views over to Polruan.

views over polruan

The ferry crosses the river above the centre of Fowey at Whitehouse slipway so I see very little of Fowey. I wait for my ferry crossing on the slipway and catch the Lady Jean ferry over to Polruan.

catching the ferry at whitehose slipway

The ferry crossing takes five minutes, I guess, and costs me the princely sum of £2. I depart the ferry at Polruan and wait for my fellow passengers to disperse so that I can enjoy the fine views along the River Fowey.

departing the ferry

river fowey

After crossing the River Fowey a small, sandy beach can be found at Polruan Quay unless the tide is in, which it isn't today.

sandy beach at polruan quay

I continue on my walk at the Lugger Inn on The Quay at Polruan before passing Polruan's second pub the Russell Inn. Although it is still relatively early, both pubs seem to be open but it's time for some serious walking.

lugger inn

russell inn

I climb out of Polruan and enjoy the lovely views over the village.

view over polruan

The path climbs to reach the National Coastwatch Station where I have some magnificent final views back over the Fowey estuary. It is starting to get very hot now.

view back over fowey estuary

I continue along the coast path towards Lantic Bay and ignore the coast path signs and, instead, head down the steep climb to the beach, passing foxgloves enjoying the view over the beach.

foxgloves over lantic bay

A white sand and shingle beach is found at Lantic Bay, and is one of the finest beaches on the South West Coast Path. Due to its isolation it is normally very quiet but there are quite a few people on it today.

On leaving the beach the path heads towards Pencarrow Head where I have some final magnificent views back over Lantic Bay. 

view back over lantic bay

I enjoy more wild flowers on the rugged coast.

The path becomes a roller-coaster ride passing over Watch House Cove, Palace Cove and Sandheap Point before dropping steeply into West Combe and over a footbridge above a waterfall. The coast path turns to the left but I head to the right instead to gain access to the lovely Lansallos Beach.

waterfall above lansallos beach

The beach is a small, sheltered sand and shingle beach and, as far as I know, is in the middle of nowhere but for some reason is heaving with people!. It's not even marked on my Ordnance Survey map.

heaving lansallos beach

I enjoy the beach for a while but it's time to tackle the tough last section of coast to Polperro.

leaving lansallos beach

Back on the coast path I pass a group of ponies who seem to have descended on a family having lunch.

ponies

More footbridges are encountered before passing an obelisk daymark.

daymark

The going around here is tough and I just seem to go up and down cliffs. I pass by Broad Cove, Shag Rock, West Penslake Cove, Penslake Cove, Blackybale Point, Colors Cove and Nealand Point and I have fine views over towards Polperro although the village is out of view, tucked away behind its harbour.

Chapel Cliff is reached and then I come across a rocky patch, finally with fine views over Polperro's harbour.

polperro

The path climbs down to the village where steps take me down to the harbour. A small, sandy beach can be found here just outside of the harbour wall, only available at low tide but the harbour is teeming with people so I head back past the Blue Peter Inn and by the fish landing area where a fisherman is busily shucking scallops.

blue peter inn

At the head of the harbour I head up the village near to the House on the Props.

polperro harbour

I finish the day by wandering up through the rather busy village to the car park at the top of the village. On the way I stop off to thirstily suck on an orange Calippo ice lolly. Utter bliss! It has been a hot, hot end to the day.

polperro village

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • foxgloves
  • early purple orchids
  • goldfinches
  • sheep
  • ribwort plantain
  • house martins
  • wild garlic
  • red campion
  • chiffchaffs
  • skylarks
  • a heron
  • red admirals
  • peacock butterflies
  • oystercatchers
  • stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.6 miles today which amounts to 36613 steps. It has been magnificent walking today in what turned out to be very hot weather. Doesn't get much better than this. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 737.10 metres or 2418 feet.

video

map

early purple orchid

sea thrift on gribbin head

overlooking the fowey estuary

polperro

beach collection