mevagissey to charlestown

September 12, 2023 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

saturDAY, 2nd september 2023

Start location: Mevagissey (SX 01485 44790)

End point: Charlestown (SX 03779 51676)

Map: Explorer 105

The weather forecast for the whole week looks to be fantastic although it’ll be way too hot for walking. It looks like today I'll have a lovely day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long and barely a breath of wind.

Mevagissey high tide 08:02

Mevagissey low tide 14:22

Today's walk starts at the car park above Mevagissey. I descend down to the harbour. It's early and the harbour hasn't really got going yet.

I do a bit of exploration and pass the Wheelhouse Inn, the Harbour Tavern, The Sharks Fin, The Fountain Inn, The Ship Inn and the Cellar Bar before heading around the harbour towards Mevagissey Museum.

I climb up out of Mevagissey where I have lovely views back over the harbour.

The path heads behind houses on the outskirts of Mevagissey and the walk continues around Penare Point where the fields are full of docile cows.

I amble along taking photographs of the wild and cultivated flowers.

I now have lovely views over Pentewan Beach. It’s looking pretty busy down there despite the fact that the kids should be back at school.

I descend to Pentewan Beach and the Pentewan Sands Holiday Park. The official coast path route skirts around Pentewan Beach, presumably because the beach is privately owned. I head for the beach anyway and, technically, do a bit of trespassing.

At the end of the beach a path takes me back to the official coast path at Pentewan village.

Pentewan apparently means 'foot of the radiant stream'. I cross a stream but I can’t say that it’s particularly radiant. The village and harbour here date back to medieval times and although the harbour was once important for shipping china clay it is now entirely cut off from the sea.

I take a footbridge over the harbour entrance and then round the harbour to reach the The Ship Inn.

The path leaves the square in Pentewan village and then climbs steeply up Pentewan Hill and passes All Saints Church.

pentewan village

I amble along the path out of Pentewan, photographing the various flowers.

I have a final view down towards Pentewan beach.

The path passes Polrudden Cove and I have lovely views across to the beacon on Gribbin Head.

I continue ambling along the coast path where a sign warns me that the cliffs are dangerous and that the owners are not responsible for trespassers injuries. I also pass a lone cormorant out on a rock.

At a stream at East Vans I come across a puzzled couple who are examining a fallen down signpost and have no idea which direction to go. I will continue to meet them throughout the day, mostly the three of us going in the wrong direction.

We head off towards Hallane Mill which used to be surrounded by sculptures but these are long gone and the mill now seems to be a holiday let for Classic Cottages.

The path continues towards Black Head and passes a big granite block in memory of the Cornish poet A L Rowse.

“A L ROWSE CH
1903-1997
POET AND HISTORIAN

LEF A GERNOW
VOICE OF CORNWALL

THIS WAS THE LAND
OF MY CONTENT”

I should double back round on myself at the memorial but there aren’t any signs indicating this so I head off in the wrong direction where I meet the couple for a second time at a dead end on Black Head.

I’m starting to feel pain in my right foot, which has never happened before, and this injury will continue to cause me problems for the rest of the week.

We retrace our steps and round the memorial stone where the path heads for some woodland and then climbs up along Ropehaven Cliffs.

I enter woods and, at a bench, follow the wrong path (no signs again) and get temporarily lost. The couple follow me down the wrong path before we realize that we’ve gone wrong again and retrace our steps up to the bench to follow the correct path.

I pass Gwendra Point, Silvermine Point and Phoebe's Point where I have magnificent views over St Austell Bay.

I drop down to the village of Porthpean where there is a lovely, sandy beach. It is much busier than I was expecting. The beach is home to Porthpean Sailing Club and the Porthpean Beach Cafe can be found here.

There aren’t any signs so I go wrong again but eventually see my fellow walkers one last time walking along the sea wall where, at the far end, I find a set of steps which takes me back onto the cliffs.

A short walk over Carrickowel Point takes me to Du Porth Beach which means 'two coves' in Cornish. The beach is privately owned but accessible to the public and it's much quieter than Porthpean Beach.

My foot is causing me some serious grief now so I take a quick photograph before retracing my steps back on to the cliffs.

I regain the coast path and it takes me behind back gardens where I have a final view back over Du Porth.

I pass the Crinnis Cliff Battery, constructed around 1793 to defend the entrance to the new harbour at Charlestown.

I hobble down the path to reach Charlestown, an unspoilt example of a late Georgian working port, originally used to export copper and import coal but subsequently used to export china clay.

Nowadays it is much more recognized as a television and film location and has been used for The Onedin Line (Blimey! that was a long time ago!!), The Eagle has Landed, Longitude, Apocalypto and Doctor Who amongst others.

The sand and pebble beach here sits just outside the harbour.

I hobble painfully up through Charlestown to the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

californian poppy
yarrow
echium
blackberry
roses
hydrangea
red admiral butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
fuchsia
herb robert
red campion
buddleia
ribwort plantain
purple loosestrife
crocosmia
cyclamen
cat’s-ear
wild carrot
cormorant

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 9.8 miles which amounts to 24724 steps. It has taken me four and three quarter hours. The weather has been magnificent but the latter half of the walk has been painful trying to walk on my injured foot. Eight out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

mevagissey to polmear

June 12, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

Saturday, 4TH june 2016

It looks like I'll have a lovely day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Woop! The temperatures don't look very high particularly as there is very little in the way of wind but it should make for perfect walking weather.

Par Sands high tide 05:27

Par Sands low tide 11:56

I wake early. The birds are making a terrible racket out in the garden and I have a fine view of the sunrise over Lanlivery village.

Today's walk starts at the car park above Mevagissey. I descend down to the harbour. It's early and the harbour hasn't really got going yet.

I do a bit of exploration and pass the Wheelhouse Inn, the Harbour Tavern, The Sharks Fin (@sharksfin_meva), The Fountain Inn, The Ship Inn and the Cellar Bar before heading around the harbour towards Mevagissey Museum.

I climb up out of Mevagissey where I have lovely views back over the harbour.

I pass by the coastguard lookout and the path heads behind houses on the outskirts of Mevagissey and the walk continues around Penare Point where the fields are full of cows. I now have lovely views over Pentewan Beach.

At the end of the beach a path takes me back to the official coast path at Pentewan village.

Pentewan apparently means 'foot of the radiant stream' but I fail to find the said stream. The village and harbour here date back to medieval times and although the harbour was once important for shipping china clay it is now entirely cut off from the sea.

I take a footbridge over the harbour entrance and then round the harbour to reach the The Ship Inn.

The path leaves the square in Pentewan village and then climbs steeply up Pentewan Hill and past All Saints Church. Rooks are making an awful racket in the trees here.

The path passes Polrudden Cove and reaches Hallane Mill. On a previous visit the paths here were full of stinging nettles so I got stung to buggery but someone has been overzealous with the strimmer and the path has been strimmed to within an inch of its life.

The wild flowers are looking at their finest.

I finally find some shade in woods where chaffinches are competing with each other. The house at Hallane is deserted and the statues which used to be in the garden here are gone. I just find a couple of lonely sculptures partially hidden in the long grass.

I drop down to Hallane Beach expecting to find it deserted but a group of canoeists have just arrived.

The path continues towards Black Head and passes a big granite block in memory of the Cornish poet A L Rowse.

“A L ROWSE CH
1903-1997
POET AND HISTORIAN

LEF A GERNOW
VOICE OF CORNWALL

THIS WAS THE LAND
OF MY CONTENT”

The wild flowers continue to delight.

Rounding the memorial stone the path heads for some woodland and then climbs up along Ropehaven Cliffs to Trenarren House. I now have magnificent, if hazy, views over St Austell Bay.

I enter woods where I temporarily get lost before passing Gwendra Point, Silvermine Point and Phoebe's Point and then drop down to the village of Porthpean where there is a lovely, sandy beach. The beach is home to Porthpean Sailing Club and the Porthpean Beach Cafe can be found here.

I wander along the beach to the far end but the exit gate is locked and so I have to retrace my steps along the beach.

I regain the coast path and it takes me behind back gardens where I pass the Crinnis Cliff Battery, constructed around 1793 to defend the entrance to the new harbour at Charlestown. I climb down to reach Charlestown, an unspoilt example of a late Georgian working port, originally used to export copper and import coal but subsequently used to export china clay.

The sand and pebble beach here sits just outside the harbour. I have a spot of lunch here looking out over the harbour before setting off again.

I pass by the Pier House Hotel and Restaurant and The Harbourside Inn before rounding the harbour. The Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre is found at the head of the harbour.

I regain the cliffs and pass in front of Porth Avallen Hotel where I come across more wild flowers but also a patch of the dreaded japanese knotweed.

The path continues in front of Carlyon Bay Hotel before I descend down a concrete ramp to Carlyon Bay.

Carlyon Bay consists of three beaches, Crinnis, Polgaver and Shorthorn, and once upon a time it was lovely around here but on my previous visits had turned into an eyesore with the Cornwall Coliseum at the top of Crinnis Beach gradually falling into disrepair. The Coliseum was finally demolished in the Spring of 2015.

A series of poor planning decisions over a number of years has ruined Carlyon Bay and disgruntled the local residents, but the place looks like it is finally being redeveloped and there are plans to create a new beachside village with homes, restaurants, bars and cafes. Let's hope that the place finally gets back to the way it should be. There are still lines of steel shuttering, piles of ugly boulders and fences everywhere. Yuk!! But at least the beach is looking much more like a family beach again. You can keep up with developments at the Carlyon Bay Watch website.

There's even some pop up shops on the beach hinting at what may come including Ostraca Pop Up Oyster Bar and Sam's @ The Bay.

It's not clear to me whether there is an exit point at the far end of the beach so I head back up the concrete ramp to rejoin the coast path where it continues alongside the Carlyon Bay Golf Course and towards a disused china clay works at Spit Point.

I find a beach which is normally deserted just before reaching the china clay works but it's actually quite busy today. It is unmarked on my Ordnance Survey map but must be Spit Point Beach.

I enjoy the beach here before walking through the deserted and dusty china clay works to reach the hideously busy A3082. A lorry driver has suddenly decided that his lorry won't go under the 11 foot 9 inch railway bridge and is causing chaos by reversing back up the road.

The path continues past the Port of Par and then through the village of Par passing the Church of the Good Shepherd.

The coast path should lead down to Par Beach but on previous visits I haven't found any signs but I'm determined this time so I continue past the Welcome Home pub and finally find a sign pointing out the coast path. The signs dry up again but I follow a convoluted path which finally leads me to the beach at Par Sands.

I wander along the sandy beach and at the far end walk through the sand dunes to reach my lift at the car park.

My wide angle lens seems to be faulty so I might have to swap it for my cheap 18-55 lens for the rest of the holiday.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

chaffinches
chiffchaffs
red campion
foxgloves
speckled wood butterfiles
cows
sea thrift
house martins
rooks
bluebells
sheep
honeysuckle
swallows
skylarks
buzzards
elderflower
bird's-foot trefoil
kidney vetch
bladder campion
greater stitchwort

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.7 miles today which amounts to 34019 steps. After a misty start it turned into a lovely day with blue skies and it was properly hot. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 708.60 metres or 2324 feet.

Video

mevagissey to polmear from Mark Seymour on Vimeo.

map

portloe to mevagissey

October 01, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 27th september 2015

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Woop!

Falmouth high tide 05:06 and 17:25

Falmouth low tide 11:51

I start the day back at the tiny harbour in Portloe where a fishing boat has landed on the beach full up with a catch. There's no sign of the box of sea urchins I came across yesterday so I just do a quick bit of exploring of the beach.

I enjoy some of the flowers in the village before heading off. The coast path winds its way in between the houses upwards out of Portloe and I have fine views back to the village and down to the fishing boat being unloaded in the harbour..

A rugged and fiddly path leads me up and down, up and down all the way to West Portholland. The beach here is sandy, but it is of the grey grit variety unlike the fine, golden sand I've been used to so far. A canoist pulls up onto the beach just as I arrive in the tiny village.

The tide is too far in for me to be able to walk across to East Portholland on the beach so I clamber up onto the rocks and walk along the sea wall instead. East Portholland is the larger of the two villages but they are both tiny and there is only a small post office and a tea room here. I don't see the post office but I do pass Pebbles Cafe and Crafts.

I take the road out of East Portholland, passing the last of the cottages and zigzag up a track. I walk across a couple of fields and re-join the road that leads me down to Caerhays Castle on my left and Porthluny Cove on my right.

The castle was designed by John Nash and is a rather vulgar monstrosity! I head for the beach instead which is large and sandy and rather popular.

I come across a stranded jellyfish on the beach but, unlike yesterday's starfish, shows no sign of life and there's no chance of me returning it to the water anyway.

I leave Porthluny Cove next to the cafe and head up a steep field where I have fine views back over the beach and the castle.

A series of fields and woods leads me past Lambsowden Cove and I come across a lone shetland pony chomping on the vegetation. There's no sign of any of his friends.

I continue onwards towards Hemmick Beach where I climb down steps to reach a house next to the beach. I wander out on to the sandy beach and explore the rock pools at low tide. The beach is completely deserted except for a jogger and his dog.

I come across a dead seal on the beach and as I leave the beach some families are starting to arrive.

A steep climb gives me magnificent views over Hemmick Beach.

The climb cotinues, taking me up to a granite cross on the top of Dodman Point, built in 1896 as a seafarers aid for navigation. I have fine views back where I have come from and onwards towards Mevagissey.

“In the firm hope of the second coming of our Lord Jesus Christ and for the encouragement of those who strive to serve Him. This cross is erected A.D. 1896.”

The path continues along fields. bushy paths and scrubby slopes and I pass a flock of black sheep. I have lovely views overlooking Vault Beach.

I take a detour off of the coast path and head down to Vault Beach. The beach here is lovely so I head down to explore it. Although quite close to Gorran Haven it is rather isolated so is never very busy and there's barely a handful of people here.

I head back to the coast path and come across a load of bees heading down into their burrows in the mud. No idea what species they are. The coast path leads me towards Gorran Haven high above the beach and I have lovely views over the village.

I climb a cliff and then down steps to reach the harbour at Gorran Haven. I head out to enjoy the beach which is just starting to get busy.

I walk up Church Street and meander through the village passing the church of St Just and the Mount Zion Church. At what was once the Llawnroc Inn (Gorran Haven no longer has any pubs) I turn right along Cliff Road and leave Gorran Haven behind me.

I pass Perhaver House where a sign informs me that refugees are welcome. I walk uphill onto Pabyer Point and round Turbot Point to reach Colona Beach, consisting of a large area of sand and rocky outcrops. The beach is pretty isolated and therefore deserted, except for some oystercatchers.

I round Chapel Point and cross grassy slopes to reach Chapel Point Lane and it's now easy walking to drop down to Portmellon. Sparrows are merrily chirping away to themselves in the bushes. I wander out on to the seaweed encrusted beach before heading back past The Rising Sun Inn and head uphill towards Mevagissey.

Easy walking along roads chock full of hotels and bed and breakfasts takes me to a park with fine views overlooking Mevagissey harbour and it's then an easy walk downhill through roads, unusually not full of tourists and cars, to reach Mevagissey.

I explore the shops and harbour here before heading through the village to where my lift awaits at the car park above the village, on the way passing The Kings Arms (@KingsArmsMeva), the Wheelhouse Inn, the Harbour Tavern, The Sharks Fin (@sharksfin_meva) and The Ship Inn.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

agapanthus
red valerian
white valerian
hydrangeas
crane's-bill (bloody I think but it's late in the year)
rosebay willowherb
sheep
cows
jellyfish
shetland pony
dead seal
black sheep
mushrooms
bees
sparrows

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 13.77 miles today which amounts to 31938 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking and the weather has been glorious again. Nine out of ten!

mevagissey to golant via fowey

September 08, 2013 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

8th september 2013

The weather forecast for the day looks a bit on the ropey side. As it turns out though, the waterproofs aren't required and after a damp start the day soon brightens up and almost becomes too hot for walking.

Mevagissey

Mevagissey is a village and fishing port nestling in a small valley and facing east to Mevagissey Bay. The inner and outer harbours are busy with a mixture of pleasure vessels and working fishing boats, the remains of a once major industry. However, tourism has supplanted fishing as the dominant industry in recent years.

Mevagissey village centre consists of narrow streets with many places to eat and shops aimed at the tourist trade. The outer areas are built on the steep slopes of the surrounding hillsides and are mostly residential.

The Tourist Information Centre can be found on St Georges Square and Mevagissey Museum can be found in the inner harbour at the end of East Wharf.

Normally I'd follow the walks as detailed in Paddy Dillon's book 'The South West Coast Path' so today should be Mevagissey to Polmear. However, since we're staying in Golant for the week today's walk is extended to finish at Golant, passing through Fowey on the way.

Today's walk starts at Mevagissey harbour and heads towards Mevagissey Museum before climbing up to the coastguard lookout.

The walk continues around Penare Point before descending to Pentewan Beach and the Pentewan Sands Holiday Park. The official coast path route skirts around Pentewan Beach as the beach is privately owned but, hey!, I'm not one to miss out on a good beach so did a bit of trespassing here before heading back to the official coast path at Pentewan village.

The path leaves the square in Pentewan village passing the Ship Inn pub, and then climbs steeply up Pentewan Hill and past All Saints Church. It then passes Polrudden Cove and reaches Hallane Mill. On a previous visit the paths here were full of stinging nettles so I got stung to buggery but fortunately this time the paths were quite clear and any offending nettles were felled with my walking pole.

The path continues towards Black Head and passes a big granite block in memory of the Cornish poet A L Rowse.

Rounding the memorial stone the path heads for some woodland and then climbs up along Ropehaven Cliffs to Trenarren House. Just before Porthpean a badger sett has taken over the coast path. Fortunately, its not in Somerset or Gloucestershire so there weren't any marksman about! Porthpean village is reached where a popular, sandy beach can be found as well as the Porthpean Beach Cafe.

On my previous walk back in September 2009 I had to detour lengthily inland to the main road because of cliff collapses, passing masses of roadworks on the way in to Charlestown. Fortunately, after (lengthy) negotiations with landowners in the area, the path has now been reconstructed through backgardens, and there is now a pleasant route to Charlestown. The sand and pebble beach here sits just outside the harbour.

Charlestown

Charlestown is a village and 18th century port in the parish of St Austell Bay. The port at Charlestown developed from what was in the late 18th century the fishing village of West Polmear and has remained relatively unchanged. Here you can find the Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre at the head of the harbour and the Phoenix of Dell Quay, a converted 18th century two masted Brig, moored in the harbour where numerous film and TV programmes have been filmed.

The path continues around the harbour at Charlestown, regaining the cliffs in front of Porth Avallen Hotel and then in front of Carlyon Bay Hotel. It continues alongside the Carlyon Bay Golf Course towards a disused china clay works at Spit Point. There are three beaches at Carlyon Bay - Crinnis, Polgaver and Shorthorn - but, on the second time of passing, they are still a complete eyesore.

The hideously busy A3082 is reached and the path continues past the Port of Par and then through the village of Par passing the Church of the Good Shepherd.

The coast path continues behind the Ship Inn at Polmear and heads towards the harbour at Polkerris where thirsty walkers can stop for a nice pint at the Rashleigh Inn. A sandy, crescent shaped, south west facing beach can be found here. This thirsty walker headed on towards Fowey.

The path heads around Gribbin Head where the red and white Gribbin daymark (enveloped in fog on my last walk here in 2009) was erected in 1832.

The path descends to the south facing beach at Polridmouth Cove and then up onto Lankelly Cliff and Southground Cliffs and arrives at Readymoney Beach, a small, sheltered sandy beach.

Readymoney Road and then the Esplanade takes me on to Fowey, passing Whitehouse Beach on the way.

The walk through Fowey passes the Galleon Inn, the Ship Inn, the King of Prussia hotel and the Safe Harbour Inn and as I pass the Bodinnick Ferry I glance over to see the Old Ferry Inn. Must attempt to pop over at some point this week!

Fowey

Fowey is a small town and cargo port at the mouth of the River Fowey. Fowey has thrived as a port for hundreds of years, initially as a trading and naval town, then as the centre for china clay exports. Today Fowey is busy with trawlers and yachts and tourism has become an important source of income. Fowey Tourist Information Centre can be found on South Street.

A short walk following the River Fowey takes me back to our home for the week where a fine pint of Doombar greets this thirsty walker at the Fisherman's Arms in Golant.

Flora and fauna

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today :-

cyclamen
cows
daft sheep
great tit
robin
swallows
himalayan balsam

Podcast

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

Marks out of ten?

According to my phone I've walked 24 miles today which amounts to 51607 steps. Ouch! Don't think I've ever walked so far and my feet are sore. For various reasons, I hated this walk when I last did it in 2009. The walk has been much improved with the route into Charlestown now fixed so today I'd give the walk a 7 out of 10. If someone could sort out Carlyon Bay and uproot Par and dump it somewhere else that would be much appreciated! The walk might then even score an extra point.

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