helford passage to falmouth

February 27, 2025 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

thursday, 19TH SEPTEMBER 2024

Start location: Helford Passage (SW 76417 26977)

End point: Falmouth (SW 80464 33389)

Map: Explorer 103

We’ve been staying in Falmouth since last Friday and the weather has been lovely. It looks like I'm in for another day of beautiful weather today.

Falmouth high tide 06:49

Falmouth low tide 13:29

I start the day at the car park above Helford Passage where I can hear a chiffchaff singing. I amble down through the village to reach the Ferryboat Inn.

“Helford Passage - Sand-and-shingle beach, suitable for swimming and boating at all states of the tide, overlooked by an inn and holiday flats. The ferry to Helford, which runs during the summer, has been in operation since the mid-16th century. Boat trips on the river. Ideal spot for making a trip in a self-drive boat to secluded Frenchman’s Creek, which is surrounded by woods. Sailing/rowing/motorboats for hire. P.”

— AA Book of the Seaside, 1972

Should you wish, you can catch the ferry from here over to the village of Helford, which I've used on previous walks but I’m going in the opposite direction today.

I walk along the beach collecting shells below the Ferryboat Inn before following a familiar coast path sign which ambles along the river before entering woods.

I walk along a track to reach the back entrance of Trebah Garden and pass behind the private beach here.

I have magnificent views along the Helford estuary towards Rosemullion Head.

The coast path has been re-routed behind Durgan and heads along a shady path inland before dropping down to reach the tiny village of Durgan.

I amble through the village of Durgan and enjoy the small beach here before leaving the village, passing the Old School House. It takes very little time to transverse the village.

“Durgan - Hamlet of white cottages around a shingle beach; no parking. At the top of the lane are Glendurgan Gardens, owned by the National Trust, with a maze; open Mon and Wed, Apr to Sept, plus Fri in Apr and May.”

— AA Book of the Seaside, 1972

I join a road and head above Grebe Beach. The beach is not signposted from the coast path so it’s usually quiet here.

I walk under a group of scots pines and then head below Bosloe House along a path through Bosloe Hay Meadows. The meadows can look fantastic around about June but they are a lot more subdued at this time of year after they have been cut.

On the edge of the meadow I pass a robin who is happily singing to himself (or possibly herself, rare in birds but the female sings as well).

It is now a short walk to Porth Saxon beach where I enjoy the views down the river. I usually have this beach to myself but there’s quite a few people here out walking their dogs.

I amble briefly along the coast path to reach the beach at Porthallack where the weather is so calm that the water is just gently whispering. I have more magnificent views along the Helford estuary.

I leave Porthallack and climb a steep but brief grassy slope.

I enter woods below the village of Mawnan Smith at Mawnan Glebe where I immediately come across a buzzard.

“Mawnan - Clifftop hamlet, sheltered by high woods, with a 13th-century church set in ancient earthworks. Close to the lychgate on the left of the path leading to the north door is a small, ancient headstone with a faintly discernible skull and cross-bones, perhaps the grave of a pirate who met with a grisly death. From the south door there are memorable views, with glimpses of the blue water of the river amid the lush green and gold of the surrounding woods and farmland.”

— AA Book of the Seaside, 1972

I amble up and down the slopes of the wood before leaving them to head out across Rosemullion Head.

It is now pleasant walking along the gentle slopes before I walk below the sub tropical gardens of Meudon Hotel. I briefly drop down to the beach here.

I gradually drop down to Maenporth Beach and head out onto the sandy beach.

I amble along the beach enjoying the lovely weather and pass Life's a Beach, the beach cafe here at the far end of the beach.

“Maenporth - Popular sandy cove, sheltered from all but direct east winds with safe swimming. Half the beach is privately owned. Boats for hire on the natural lagoon behind the beach. Floats, deck-chairs, wind-breaks for hire; life-saving club. P.”

— AA Book of the Seaside, 1972

It's now a pleasant couple of miles walk towards Swanpool Beach, on the way passing a memorial to the Home Guard.

As I drop down to Swanpool Beach I pass a memorial bench in the memory of Sophie Louise Banks who took her own life at a very young age. I have passed this bench many times over the years.

I pass next to the Hooked on the Rocks (recently re-opened as Beach House Falmouth) restaurant and then head out onto the pleasant sandy beach which is being enjoyed by plenty of dogs (and plenty of people as well!).

“Swanpool Beach - Wide, sandy beach with safe swimming from white sand between rocky reefs studded with pools. Boating on a reed-rimmed pond behind the beach. Chalets, floats, deck-chairs, wind-breaks and boats for hire, trampolines, minature railway, rescue boat. P.”

— AA Book of the Seaside, 1972

I amble along the beach and then join the short path heading towards Gyllyngvase Beach. On the way I pass another memorial bench in memory of another Sophie Louise, this time Sophie Louise Cook who died from a cardiac arrest, again at a very young age.

It is easy walking to reach the delightful Gyllyngvase Beach on the outskirts of Falmouth. There are plenty of people on the beach even this far out of season but it’s no surprize given the lovely weather.

“Gyllngvase Beach - Gently sloping beach of clean white sand between reefs of rock pools, with safe swimming. Falmouth’s busiest beach as it is near the town. Bathing huts, chalets, floats, deck-chairs, wind-breaks for hire, trampolines, paddling-pool, miniature railway, rescue boat. P.”

— AA Book of the Seaside, 1972

I amble along the sandy beach passing the Gylly Beach Cafe before rejoining the road. I wander through Gyllydune Gardens before following roads which drop down into Falmouth.

Along the way I pass Beryl Bike number 31601 which has been next to this wall all week.

I make my way to Discovery Quay next door to the National Maritime Museum Cornwall.

It is now a pleasant walk through the heart of Falmouth and back to our home for the week, Bussillion.

“Falmouth - From the Tudor period to the end of last century, Falmouth saw more shipping than any port in the country except London. In 1815, about 350 ships were counted in Carrick Roads on one day. In 1872, 3945 ships entered Falmouth bound to or from foreign ports, and as many again handled coastal trade.
Boat trips, river cruises, shark fishing, sea-angling trips from harbour, lifeboat, two theatres, cinema, summer shows in Pavilion, water galas, water-polo matches in summer, bowls, golf, cricket, tennis, pitch-and-putt, sailing regattas (Aug), fishing festival (July), sailing clubs, power-boat racing, go-karts, maritime museum, art gallery, air-bottle recharging, sailing school, concert hall, ballroom dancing. P.”

— AA Book of the Seaside, 1972

FLORA AND FAUNA

chiffchaff
buzzard
robin
ragwort
red campion
ribwort plantain
honeysuckle
buddleia
scots pines
gunnera
knapweed
wild carrot
sweet chestnut
herb robert
redshank
crocosmia
sea aster
gorse
rosebay willowherb
hemp agrimony
aeonium
japanese anemone

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 9.5 miles which amounts to 23492 steps. It has taken me 4 hours. The weather has been beautiful and I’ve walked one of my favourite stretches of the coast path. Ten out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

hartland quay to bude

June 08, 2024 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SATURDAY, 1st june 2024

sunday, 2nd june 2024

Start location: Hartland Quay (SS 22278 24747)

End point: Bude (SS 20590 06516)

Map: Explorer 126, 111

This walk is a little on the long side for my ageing limbs so I’m going to split it into two much shorter walks by heading for Morwenstow and then returning to the village the next day to continue to Bude.

The weather forecast for the entire two days is fantastic and it’ll be warm and sunny with very little in the way of wind.

Saturday, 1st June 2024

Bude low tide 07:37

Bude high tide 13:49

sunday, 2nd June 2024

Bude low tide 08:45

Bude high tide 14:54

I wander down from high above Hartland Quay to start the day on the beach at Hartland Quay. It is a beautiful early summer morning with hazy sunshine so I enjoy the beach for a little while.

The quay here was originally built in the 16th century but swept away in 1887. I marvel at the folded rocks here but it's time to get going. I wander up the slipway, completed in 1976 by volunteers from the Hartland Boat Club. Lundy should be clearly visible out to sea but it is too hazy today.

I leave the beach and head up the road to the Hartland Quay Hotel and pass the Wreckers Retreat Bar, a traditional smugglers inn.

I climb steps uphill and head out on to the coast path before coming across a waterfall at Speke's Mill Mouth, all the while enjoying the early summer wild flowers.

I head inland and cross a footbridge. I used to have a choice of routes, the cliff top route or the valley route but the valley route seems to be the only one signposted. The signpost is covered in ivy and has seen better days.

I pass behind Brownspear Point, Longpeak, Hole Rock, Gunpath Rock, Mansley Rock and Cow Rock. I rejoin the coast path. I continue along the path to reach a road junction at Sandhole Cross.

I turn right along the road and then regain the cliffs to round Nabor Point. Somebody around here is keen on transmitter masts!

I pass Gull Rock, Coney Rock and Ramtor Rock and come across an Iron Age fort at Embury Beacon. Most of the fort has fallen into the sea but a section of the inner rampart still runs across the headland.

A sign tells me that I’m one mile from Welcome Mouth and I come across a lone orchid which I assume is a common spotted orchid but it’s a manky specimen.

I continue along the path, descending to Knap Head before a steep zig zag path takes me down to Welcombe Mouth where stepping stones take me across a stream above another waterfall.

I pass the car park and climb steeply up a scrubby slope to find a hut overlooking Marsland Mouth where Ronald Duncan wrote his poetry and plays.

The hut fell into disrepair after Ronald died in 1982 but it was rebuilt by his daughter Briony.

I come across a couple of fellow walkers who ask me to take their photo high up on the cliffs, which I do.

A series of steps takes me down the steep slope to Marsland Mouth.

I cross a footbridge at Marsland Water. I'm now on the border between Devon and Cornwall and a wooden sign welcomes me to Kernow. I’ve been buggering around so much that my fellow walkers have caught up with me so I take another photo of the two of them in front of the county boundary.

I climb wooden steps and then climb up onto the top of Marsland Cliff. Out to sea I can see Gull Rock and I have magnificent views back over Marsland Mouth.

I come across a signpost for the Tamara Coast to Coast Way, a 90 mile Cornish walking route reaching from the south to the north coast of Cornwall via the Tamar valley. I’m not sure why the signpost is here because I’m nowhere near the River Tamar.

I climb steeply down more steps and then cross a footbridge over a stream. I amble across Cornakey Cliff and a grassy descent leads me to a footbridge over Westcott Wattle. All the while I enjoy the wild flowers.

A slippery scrambling climb leads me over Henna Cliff before crossing another footbridge over a stream and I can now make out Morwenstow just inland. More steps lead me up onto Vicarage Cliff.

According to my ancient Ordnance Survey map I should come across Hawker's Hut but I fail to see any sign of it.

From here I follow a footpath inland towards Morwenstow, passing Morwenstow Church, to reach the car park at Rectory Farm where my lift awaits.

I return to the car park next to the tea rooms at Rectory Farm in Morwenstow the next morning and head out towards the coast path.

I head back along the footpath towards Vicarage Cliff where I pass Morwenstow Church again. It is another beautiful sunny morning.

As soon as I reach the coast path I come across a sign pointing to the left telling me that Hawker’s Hut is 200 yards away. So I didn’t miss it yesterday and it’s located in the wrong place on my Ordnance Survey map. Sure enough, when I look at the up to date digital version of the map it has been moved.

I amble along the cliffs and come across a National Trust sign for Hawker's Hut, a little hut made from driftwood and built by the Revered Hawker, the eccentric Victorian vicar of Morwenstow, who liked to smoke a pipe of opium here with his literary friends.

hawker's hut

I zig zag down a steep slope and pass a National Trust sign for Tidna Shute and cross yet another footbridge over a stream.

tidna shute

I come across a ruined coastguard lookout station at Higher Sharpnose Point.

I amble along a grassy path before a steep zig zag descent leads me to a footbridge in the valley at Stanbury Mouth. Apparently a steep and difficult climb takes you down to the beach but I can't see much of a path and it looks too dangerous anyway.

I now have a steep climb up to the radar station at GCHQ Bude where I come across a fox. I don’t know what it’s supposed to signify.

GCHQ Bude is an eery place and it feels like they are listening to me! I quickly pass it by.

I amble past the station but fail to see any coast path signs. I cross a load of concrete pads and walk across a fenced in field. This can’t be right.

I can now see the sandy beaches leading up to Bude. Fortunately, towards the end of the field I come across a wooden bit of the fence which I can climb over and this takes me back to the coast path at Steeple Point. Out at sea are Squench Rock, Pigsback Rock and Kempthorn's Rock.

A steep descent down the cliff takes me to Duckpool Beach. On the way down I come across common centaury. It may be common but it’s not something I recognize so hopefully now I’ve spotted it I should see it more often.

common centaury

The beach here is rather pleasant, particularly when the tide is out, which it is today. I crunch across the beach and head down to the lovely sand exposed by the tide.

I enjoy the beach here with quite a few other people on this sunny day. I should now head inland to cross a footbridge but instead cross back up the beach and find a path that climbs up the steep grassy slope back onto the clifftops. I walk downhill and cross a teeny footbridge at Warren Gutter.

From here it is a thoroughly lovely walk along the clifftops above Warren Little Beach, Eliza Beach and Warren Long Beach before descending down to another footbridge at Sandymouth.

The tide is out today so there is quite a bit of sand.

The tide is nowhere near far enough out though to continue along the beach so I head back onto the low cliffs where I have lovely views back over Sandymouth. Before reaching Northcott Mouth I come across a load of flag irises.

I continue along the path to reach Northcott Mouth. At low tide, the wreck of the SS Belem is revealed, wrecked in November 1917.

I walk along the top of Maer Down where I come across some lovely clumps of wild carrot. I now have views over the beaches at Bude.

I continue along the path to reach Crooklets Beach. I cross a footbridge and pass the beach huts.

I drop down to the beach at Summerleaze Beach next to Bude Sea Pool.

I head out across Summerleaze Beach which is rather busy, before heading in to the car park behind the beach where my lift awaits. A fun fair is taking place in the car park so it is a rather noisy end to a peaceful day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

sheep’s sorrel
foxglove
red campion
flag iris
stonecrop
wild carrot
gorse
cat’s-ear
bugle
cuckooflower
ribwort plantain
kidney vetch
sea thrift
oxeye daisy
devil’s-bit scabious
common centaury
oystercatchers
stone chats
swallows
chiff chaffs
whitethroat
linnets

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.5 miles over the last couple of days which amounts to 47023 steps. Phew, that’s a long way. I’m glad I did it over two days. It has taken me eight hours 45 minutes. The weather has been gorgeous across the two days and it has been a rollercoaster ride. Ten out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

dartmouth to brixham

June 08, 2024 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesDAY, 7th may 2024

Start location: Dartmouth (SX 87863 51250)

End point: Brixham (SX 92545 56290)

Map: Explorer OL20

The weather forecast for today looks to be pretty good and I should have a nice sunny day.

Dartmouth low tide 12:10

Dartmouth high tide 18:39

I start the day in Dartmouth and head through the lower part of Dartmouth where I have lovely views across to Kingswear. There is a massive Hurtigruten Expeditions ship clogging up the harbour at Dartmouth.

I amble down towards the lower ferry and wait for it to cross over from Kingswear.

I cross over the River Dart to Kingswear using the lower ferry which costs me £2.00. On reaching Kingswear I pass under an arch next to the post office and then climb up Alma Steps.

I take one final look back over to Dartmouth and then set off for Brixham.

I follow a minor road out of the village where I come across spring flowers.

I then follow a coastal path diversion towards Kingswear Court.

I enter Warren Woods and zig zag down a slope, cross over a stream and then zig zag up the other side of the valley.

I now have lovely views back over to Dartmouth Castle on the other side of the river mouth.

I reach Brownstone Battery at Inner Froward Point, built in 1940 to protect the Dart estuary and Slapton and Blackpool Sands from enemy invasion.

I pass by Froward Point Coastwatch Station and head down the battery.

The battery consists of two gun positions and each would have been armed with six inch guns. The gun emplacements remain to this day as do the two magazines that served the guns. Below the gun emplacements are two searchlight positions which would have scanned the sea for enemy ships. The trouble is that all of the information boards that were here eight years ago seem to have disintegrated so nobody passing now would be able to read about all of this.

The path zig zags up and down the cliffs towards Outer Froward Point where, out to sea, can be seen Shooter Rock, Shag Stone and Mew Stone. I continue meandering along the coast path passing Old Mill Bay, Kelly's Cove and Pudcombe Cove.

I come across the rear entrance of Coleton Fishacre which used to be infested with rhododendrons (presumably ponticum) but these appear to have been grubbed up now leaving hydrangeas all around.

I come across some wall butterflies which I manage to photograph.

I round Scabbacombe Head enjoying all of the wild flowers.

A steep, slippery descent leads me down to Scabbacombe Sands.

I head along the cliffs high above Long Sands and round Crabrock Point, passing Crabrock Point Coastguard Cottage. Along the way I come across some yellowhammers on gorse and then a patch of early purple orchids.

I reach Mansands where I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach.

It is a steep climb up onto Southdown Cliff and I have to stop several times to catch my breath - otherwise known as admiring the view.

Once I reach the top I have magnificent views back over Mansands.

I head towards Sharkham Point enjoying more of the wild flowers.

I then head around St Mary's Bay, passing below the holiday villages. I would normally head down to St Mary's Bay Beach but I’m flagging today so I continue heading along the cliffs.

It is now a short walk to Berry Head, a National Nature Reserve, where I amble along the meandering paths. Along the way I come across another patch of early purple orchids.

I join a road which passes the Berry Head Hotel and walk through Shoalstone Car Park. It is now a pleasant waterfront walk leading me into Brixham where I pass above the art deco Shoalstone Sea Water Pool.

A harbourside walk from the breakwater takes me past the marina and into the centre of the town.

I pass Torbay Lifeboat Station next to the marina and then head towards the town centre car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

speckled wood butterflies
peacock butterflies
oystercatchers
seals
whitethroats
chaffinches
chiff chaffs
wrens
a rabbit
orange tip butterflies
small tortoiseshell butteflies
wall butterflies
great tits
robins
goldfinches
common lizards
yellowhammers
poppies
navelwort
wallflowers
mexican fleabane
irises
green alkanet
red valerian
herb robert
echiums
wild garlic
agapanthus
aeoniums
garlic mustard
bluebells
foxgloves
greater stitchwort
gorse
common dog-violet
oxeye daisies
bugle
primroses
stonechats
red campion
cow parsley
germander speedwell
gunnera
hydrangeas
celandines
scarlet pimpernel
sea thrift
flag iris
early purple orchids
honesty
ribwort plantain

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.9 miles which amounts to 32789 steps. It has taken me six and a quarter hours. It has been a thoroughly pleasant walk in lovely weather. Nine out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

heron's rest to brixham and back again

June 08, 2024 by Mark Seymour in john musgrave heritage tr, dart valley trail, greenway walk, south west coast path

JOHN MUSGRAVE HERITAGE TRAIL, DART VALLEY TRAIL, GREENWAY WALK AND SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

sunday, 5TH MAY 2024

Start location: Heron’s Rest (SX 87912 54748)

End point: Heron’s Rest (SX 87912 54748)

Map: Explorer OL20

The weather forecast doesn’t look very good today. I’m expecting rain and it’s not going to be particularly warm again.

Greenway Quay low tide 10:52

Greenway Quay high tide 17:23

I start the day at our holiday cottage, Heron’s Rest, set high above the River Dart and Dartmouth. It’s a rather foggy start to the day.

I leave the cottage and head left along the road where I pass what was once the Maypool Youth Hostel.

The wildflowers in the hedgerows are looking at their very best.

I enter a field where I have magnificent views over the River Dart before entering the grounds of Greenway House.

I come across a signpost for the Greenway Walk and head off in the direction it is pointed.

I follow a footpath through woods and then join a minor road and follow this for a while towards Galmpton, where I come across Greenway Halt just below the road.

Next to the entrance to Greenway Halt a sign points through fields telling me that there is a permissive path to Galmpton.

I follow the sign into a field full of cows and climb down to cross a stream. I continue following paths which take me to Galmpton Creek.

Galmpton Creek has been a boatbuilding centre for centuries, and in its heyday over 300 sailing trawlers were built here, as well as wooden motor torpedo boats during World War II. It is still a bustling marine repair centre, but its use nowadays is mostly for pleasure craft.

I pass Dartside Quay where I join Kiln Lane. I follow the lane which passes a lime kiln before joining onto Stoke Gabriel Road which takes me through Galmpton.

This lime kiln is one of several scattered on the estuary foreshore, and limestone from a nearby quarry was burnt here to produce a soil fertiliser. The area from Berry Head sits on a thick bed of Devonian limestone, once marine reefs, and Galmpton was an important centre for quarrying the stone on the River Dart. It was also used as a ballast in the early ships sailing from here to Newfoundland, and Galmpton Creek limestone has been found in some of the earliest buildings in the New World. It also appears in French and Spanish harbours, for the same reason.

At Galmpton I come across a hedgehog area sign but I don’t see any hedgehogs.

I pass Galleon Stores and next to the turning into Slade Lane can be found the Manor Inn.

I turn left into Slade Lane and follow the road up to Galmpton Warborough Common.

It is a pleasant surprise to find early purple orchids covering the football pitch here. It doesn’t look like football is played very often here!

I pass the war memorial next to the A3022.

I cross the busy road and then follow a footpath which takes me underneath the arches of Hookhills Viaduct, below the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway line.

The viaduct was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Construction commenced in 1860, after Brunel’s death, and was opened to the railway in 1864. The viaduct has nine arches and is 85 feet tall and 116 yards long.

I follow the road which takes me down to the large, curving red sandy beach at Broadsands. I amble out along the beach before retracing my steps, admiring the colourful beach huts and the Venus Cafe. It is properly murky.

It starts raining lightly as I leave Broadsands and amble along the South West Coast Path around Churston Point to reach the shingly Elberry Cove.

I amble along the beach and then head along the coast path besides Churston Golf Club before passing Fishcombe Point to reach Churston Cove, where I now have views towards Brixham Harbour.

It is properly raining now. I was expecting rain but not this heavy so I don my waterproofs. I cross the shingly and rocky beach and climb up onto the coast path and continue towards Brixham, dropping steeply down to Fishcombe Cove.

It is chucking it down so my camera goes away in my backpack and I put my waterproof cover over the bag. I climb steeply out again and head through Battery Gardens where the remains of 378 Battery Artillery Southern Command can be found. I head along Oxen Cove next to what was once AstraZeneca's Brixham Environmental Laboratory but which was donated to Plymouth University in 2013.

I pass through the car park and then pass Brixham Fish Market to reach the centre of Brixham.

I amble along the harbour and pass the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe.

I retrace my steps back through Brixham where Brixham Pirates Festival is taking place. A loud band is playing pirate songs and everyone is having a thoroughly miserable time!

I pass back next to Brixham Fish Market and back towards Fishcombe Cove where I pick up with the John Musgrave Heritage Trail.

The John Musgrave Heritage Trail is a 35 mile walking trail encompassing parts of Torbay, South Hams and Teignbridge. It was launched in March 2006 in memory of John Musgrave, a former chairman of the South Devon Group of the Ramblers, whose generous legacy to the group on his death in 2003 has been used to fund the development of the trail. John was an enthusiastic walker, leading walks in many of the areas through which the trail passes.

I pass through woods and then open scrubby ground where I come across some early purple orchids. It’s still chucking it down so I only risk one miserable photo.

I follow a track before joining a road which leads me into the village of Churston Ferrers.

I continue along the John Musgrave Heritage Trail and wander along Churston Road to reach Churston Cross. I cross the A3022 and come across Jubilee Sensory Garden but I can’t find out anything about it.

I pass Alston Farm and the rain is stopping and it’s trying to brighten up. At Higher Alston I follow a sign pointing left up a track. The wildflowers are looking delightful if rather sodden in the hedgerows.

I join the busy A379 which I warily cross by dodging the speeding cars. It’s then just a question of following fields back to our holiday cottage, Heron’s Rest.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
wild garlic
green alkanet
primroses
herb robert
cow parsley
garlic mustard
greater stitchwort
flag iris
dog rose
red valerian
roses
wisteria
mexican fleabane
pheasants
comfrey
cerinthe major purpurascens
irises
kniphofia
californian poppies
common dog-violet
ribwort plantain
early purple orchids
elderflower

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.2 miles which amounts to 27293 steps. It has taken me five and a quarter hours. The weather has been pretty miserable but I’ve enjoyed myself. Seven out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

heron's rest to dittisham

June 08, 2024 by Mark Seymour in dart valley trail

DART VALLEY TRAIL

SATURDAY, 4TH MAY 2024

Start location: Heron’s Rest (SX 87912 54748)

End point: Heron’s Rest (SX 87912 54748)

Map: Explorer OL20

It has been a shocking year so far and has felt like it is constantly chucking it down but the weather forecast looks pretty good today although it’s not going to be particularly warm.

Dartmouth low tide 09:26

Dartmouth high tide 16:02

I start the day at our holiday cottage, Heron’s Rest, set high above the River Dart and Dartmouth. It is a misty start to the morning.

I leave the cottage and head along the road before heading along a track beside some cottages. A signpost tells me that it is three and a half miles to Kingswear.

I walk alongside a field before climbing a stile which takes me into Long Wood which is largely owned by the National Trust.

The wildflowers in the hedgerows are looking at their finest.

Near to the start of Long Wood I come across a patch of dreaded Japanese knotweed. It’s never nice to see this but it doesn’t seem to have spread further than the last time I was here, five years ago.

I amble down through the wood enjoying the masses of bluebells and other wildflowers and I have fleeting views of the River Dart and its creeks.

I leave the wood and briefly join the road down to Noss. Phillip and Son Shipyard used to be located here until 1999 and is now the home to Noss Marina. It is very expensive to acquire a yacht. Swallows are flying all around the marina.

The shipyard was attacked by German bombers on the 18th of September 1942, killing 20 men and women who were building military vessels to assist in the war effort. A memorial stone here in honour of the people who lost their lives during the bombing had been in storage for five years but has now been fully restored and put back next to the marina. It’s not particularly easy to find but I eventually found it.

“THOSE WHO LOST THEIR LIVES ON 18 SEPTEMBER 1942

Frederick Clarence Adams, aged 22
John Richard Ash, aged 21
David Bott, aged 29
Jack George Charles Bustin, aged 52
Rosie Annie Crang, aged 20
Thomas Farr, aged 58
Richard Franklin, aged 26
Lionel Edgar Holden, aged 44
Walter Lewis, aged 40
George Herbert Frank Little, aged 17
Henry James Luckhurst, aged 70
John Martin, aged 48
Ernest Poole, aged 51
Sydney James Alfred Pope, aged 17
Hubert Ernest William Putt, aged 37
Ewart Edgar Trant, aged 27
Nella Eileen Trebilcock, aged 28
Samuel James Veale, aged 21
Frederick Thomas Skinner Vickery, aged 28
Hazel Joan Weaver, aged 20”

I retrace my steps and cross a road and pass Coombe Cottage before continuing along the path towards Kingswear. I come across a lone early purple orchid. There used to be a lot more around here.

A sign warns me about killer pine cones! I joke but the cones are monsters and could do some serious damage if one lands on your head.

I now have magnificent views over Dartmouth. Unfortunately my camera seems to be playing up today and the photoes are all overexposed for some reason.

I drop down to the road that takes me to Dartmouth Higher Ferry.

I join the railway track of the Paington to Kingswear Railway and follow the railway track in to Kingswear. As I reach Kingswear I have a lovely view of the steam train passing by me.

I follow the footpath over a footbridge above the railway line and into Kingswear where I pass the Steam Packet Inn, the Ship Inn and the railway station.

Here I take the Dartmouth Lower Ferry over to Dartmouth. It costs me the princely sum of £2.00.

The crossing offers lovely views of Dartmouth, Kingswear, Britannia Royal Naval College, Dartmouth Castle and the open sea.

I alight the ferry below Bayards Cove Fort, a Tudor fort built between 1522 and 1536.

I can’t find any Dart Valley Trail signs so I’m going to have to make up the route through Dartmouth. Fortunately I’ve done the walk before so I vaguely remember where to go.

I walk through the centre of Dartmouth and pass Dartmouth Visitor Centre and head behind the health centre where I find a set of stone steps, Cox’s Steps, heading upwards. This takes me to Clarence Hill which climbs steeply up to Tounstal Hill and then to Church Road where I pass behind St Clement’s Church.

I reach the A379 where there’s a Dart Valley Trail sign on a lamp post on this side of the road.

I cross the busy A379 near to the entrance to Britannia Royal Naval College and walk down Old Mill Lane behind the college.

I reach the end of the road and come across more signs pointing across Tounsal Crescent. I cross the road and find some steps next to Archway Cottage which takes me down to the next part of Old Mill Lane. I amble along this lane for quite some time until it takes me to Old Mill Creek.

At Old Mill Creek I cross over a bridge and turn right and follow a road which becomes unmetaled Lapthorne Lane where I pass Distin’s Boatyard and Creekside Boatyard.

I come across a signpost, next to a Raleigh Estate information board, which shows me that the Dart Valley Trail takes two different routes. I take the longer route to my right.

I amble through a woodland area which turns into a pine forest, passing, what my notes tell me is a lake on my right, but I’m sure it must be just part of the creek.

The woodland alternates between broadleaf and pine and the edges of the path are covered in mint for some reason. There are wildflowers everywhere, including some foxgloves not quite in flower yet and some wild strawberries.

I leave the forest and cross a steeply sloping field where I have lovely views back over the River Dart.

I climb up a path next to fields. I hear the steam train chugging back to Paignton and I have lovely views over to Noss Marina on the other side of the river.

It’s a long climb upwards before I reach Green Lane, although it’s not marked on my Ordnance Survey map, which is covered in stinky wild garlic.

I turn right into fields and cross a field with no discernible path through it but the Dart Valley Trail sign is pointing right across the field. I follow a deeply rutted track until I join the road at Fire Beacon Hill. It must be a stinky old path after some proper rain.

I briefly follow the road before climbing over a stile and along a track and I’m now on the outskirts of Dittisham, where I climb down Rectory Lane.

I amble steeply down through Dittisham.

At the bottom of the road I reach the gaudy, pink Ferry Boat Inn and Anchorstone Cafe on the banks of the River Dart.

Here I catch the Greenway and Dittisham ferry which takes me over the river to Greenway. The ferry fare is £3.

I head steeply up the road and then head through the main entrance to the Greenway Estate, once the holiday home of Agatha Christie.

“One day we saw that a house was up for sale that I had known when I was young... So we went over to Greenway, and very beautiful the house and grounds were. A white Georgian house of about 1780 or 90, with woods sweeping down to the Dart below, and a lot of fine shrubs and trees - the ideal house, a dream house.”

— Agatha Christie

I pass through a field on the outskirts of the estate before I enter a field where I have magnificent views high over the River Dart towards Dartmouth.

I follow the road past what was once the Maypool Youth Hostel and from here it is a short walk back to Heron’s Rest.

Not many photos today as they were mostly rubbish.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
herb robert
garlic mustard
bluebells
cow parsley
greater stitchwort
gorse
primrose
wild garlic
celandine
navelwort
japanese knotweed
bugle
ribwort plantain
wood spurge
dog rose
foxglove
common dog-violet
wild strawberry
forget-me-not
green alkanet
honesty
wisteria
pheasants
speckled wood butterflies
song thrush
wrens
blackcaps
great tits
heron
seal
whitethroats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 10.4 miles which amounts to 25285 steps. It has taken me five and a quarter hours. The weather started off misty but turned into a rather nice day. Shame about the photos. Eight out of ten!