SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SUNDAY, 5TH june 2016

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Temperatures aren't going to be particularly high so should make for perfect walking weather.

Par Sands high tide 06:19

Par Sands low tide 12:46

I start the day back at the car park behind the sand dunes at Par Sands and head out onto the murky beach.

I head inland slightly to the Ship Inn at Polmear where the coast path heads behind the pub and up back onto the low cliff tops and I have murky views back over Par Sands.

I immediately come across my first orchids of the week, a small patch of (not so) early purple orchids.

I head onwards towards the harbour at Polkerris and I have lovely views over the harbour. I can hear people swimming in the sea.

I drop down to the beach, passing Sams on the Beach based in the old Polkerris lifeboat station. Opposite is the Rashleigh Inn where thirsty walkers can stop for a nice pint. It's way too early for me though and the pub's not open anyway. A sandy, crescent shaped, south west facing beach can be found here and there are indeed a couple of people swimming in the sea.

I enjoy wandering along the beach before heading back to the coast path where I pass through woods smelling of garlic before heading around Gribbin Head. I enjoy the wild flowers here which are looking at their best.

I pass below the 84 foot red and white Gribbin daymark, erected in 1832, enabling sailors to pinpoint the approach to Fowey's harbour, and head on down the slopes. Several joggers pass me on the slopes. The slopes are covered in wild flowers.

The path descends to the south facing beach at Polridmouth Cove, which actually consists of two beaches. The first beach is packed with a father, son and dog playing on the beach but the second beach is completely deserted, so I wander along the beach for a bit, enjoying the solitude.

I head up onto Lankelly Cliff and Southground Cliffs. I pass Coombe Haven which is also completely deserted.

The sun is starting to break through the mist and it's starting to get rather hot. I have lovely, if misty views, over to Polruan.

I continue to Penventinue Cove passing the remains of St Catherine's Castle, one of a pair of small artillery forts built by Henry VIII in the 1530s to defend Fowey Harbour.

I now have lovely views over to Fowey.

I continue along the coast path and arrive at Readymoney Cove Beach, a small, sheltered sandy beach. It's a little busier here with a few people enjoying the beach.

I head along Readymoney Road where I take up with local dog walkers and then head along the Esplanade which takes me on to Fowey. I have more lovely views over to Polruan.

The ferry crosses the river above the centre of Fowey at Whitehouse slipway so I see very little of Fowey. I wait for my ferry crossing on the slipway and catch the Lady Jean ferry over to Polruan.

The ferry crossing takes five minutes, I guess, and costs me the princely sum of £2. I depart the ferry at Polruan and wait for my fellow passengers to disperse so that I can enjoy the fine views along the River Fowey.

After crossing the River Fowey a small, sandy beach can be found at Polruan Quay unless the tide is in, which it isn't today.

I continue on my walk at the Lugger Inn on The Quay at Polruan before passing Polruan's second pub the Russell Inn. Although it is still relatively early, both pubs seem to be open but it's time for some serious walking.

I climb out of Polruan and enjoy the lovely views over the village.

The path climbs to reach the National Coastwatch Station where I have some magnificent final views back over the Fowey estuary. It is starting to get very hot now.

I continue along the coast path towards Lantic Bay and ignore the coast path signs and, instead, head down the steep climb to the beach, passing foxgloves enjoying the view over the beach.

A white sand and shingle beach is found at Lantic Bay, and is one of the finest beaches on the South West Coast Path. Due to its isolation it is normally very quiet but there are quite a few people on it today.

lantic bay

On leaving the beach the path heads towards Pencarrow Head where I have some final magnificent views back over Lantic Bay.

I enjoy more wild flowers on the rugged coast.

The path becomes a roller-coaster ride passing over Watch House Cove, Palace Cove and Sandheap Point before dropping steeply into West Combe and over a footbridge above a waterfall. The coast path turns to the left but I head to the right instead to gain access to the lovely Lansallos Beach.

The beach is a small, sheltered sand and shingle beach and, as far as I know, is in the middle of nowhere but for some reason is heaving with people!. It's not even marked on my Ordnance Survey map.

I enjoy the beach for a while but it's time to tackle the tough last section of coast to Polperro.

Back on the coast path I pass a group of ponies who seem to have descended on a family having lunch.

More footbridges are encountered before passing an obelisk daymark.

The going around here is tough and I just seem to go up and down cliffs. I pass by Broad Cove, Shag Rock, West Penslake Cove, Penslake Cove, Blackybale Point, Colors Cove and Nealand Point and I have fine views over towards Polperro although the village is out of view, tucked away behind its harbour.

Chapel Cliff is reached and then I come across a rocky patch, finally with fine views over Polperro's harbour.

The path climbs down to the village where steps take me down to the harbour. A small, sandy beach can be found here just outside of the harbour wall, only available at low tide but the harbour is teeming with people so I head back past the Blue Peter Inn and by the fish landing area where a fisherman is busily shucking scallops.

At the head of the harbour I head up the village near to the House on the Props.

I finish the day by wandering up through the rather busy village to the car park at the top of the village. On the way I stop off to thirstily suck on an orange Calippo ice lolly. Utter bliss! It has been a hot, hot end to the day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

foxgloves
early purple orchids
goldfinches
sheep
ribwort plantain
house martins
wild garlic
red campion
chiffchaffs
skylarks
a heron
red admirals
peacock butterflies
oystercatchers
stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.6 miles today which amounts to 36613 steps. It has been magnificent walking today in what turned out to be very hot weather. Doesn't get much better than this. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 737.10 metres or 2418 feet.

video

polmear to polperro from Mark Seymour on Vimeo.

map

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

Saturday, 4TH june 2016

It looks like I'll have a lovely day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Woop! The temperatures don't look very high particularly as there is very little in the way of wind but it should make for perfect walking weather.

Par Sands high tide 05:27

Par Sands low tide 11:56

I wake early. The birds are making a terrible racket out in the garden and I have a fine view of the sunrise over Lanlivery village.

Today's walk starts at the car park above Mevagissey. I descend down to the harbour. It's early and the harbour hasn't really got going yet.

I do a bit of exploration and pass the Wheelhouse Inn, the Harbour Tavern, The Sharks Fin (@sharksfin_meva), The Fountain Inn, The Ship Inn and the Cellar Bar before heading around the harbour towards Mevagissey Museum.

I climb up out of Mevagissey where I have lovely views back over the harbour.

I pass by the coastguard lookout and the path heads behind houses on the outskirts of Mevagissey and the walk continues around Penare Point where the fields are full of cows. I now have lovely views over Pentewan Beach.

I descend to Pentewan Beach and the Pentewan Sands Holiday Park. The official coast path route skirts around Pentewan Beach, presumably because the beach is privately owned. I head for the beach anyway and, technically, do a bit of trespassing.

At the end of the beach a path takes me back to the official coast path at Pentewan village.

Pentewan apparently means 'foot of the radiant stream' but I fail to find the said stream. The village and harbour here date back to medieval times and although the harbour was once important for shipping china clay it is now entirely cut off from the sea.

I take a footbridge over the harbour entrance and then round the harbour to reach the The Ship Inn.

The path leaves the square in Pentewan village and then climbs steeply up Pentewan Hill and past All Saints Church. Rooks are making an awful racket in the trees here.

The path passes Polrudden Cove and reaches Hallane Mill. On a previous visit the paths here were full of stinging nettles so I got stung to buggery but someone has been overzealous with the strimmer and the path has been strimmed to within an inch of its life.

The wild flowers are looking at their finest.

I finally find some shade in woods where chaffinches are competing with each other. The house at Hallane is deserted and the statues which used to be in the garden here are gone. I just find a couple of lonely sculptures partially hidden in the long grass.

I drop down to Hallane Beach expecting to find it deserted but a group of canoeists have just arrived.

The path continues towards Black Head and passes a big granite block in memory of the Cornish poet A L Rowse.

“A L ROWSE CH
1903-1997
POET AND HISTORIAN

LEF A GERNOW
VOICE OF CORNWALL

THIS WAS THE LAND
OF MY CONTENT”

The wild flowers continue to delight.

Rounding the memorial stone the path heads for some woodland and then climbs up along Ropehaven Cliffs to Trenarren House. I now have magnificent, if hazy, views over St Austell Bay.

I enter woods where I temporarily get lost before passing Gwendra Point, Silvermine Point and Phoebe's Point and then drop down to the village of Porthpean where there is a lovely, sandy beach. The beach is home to Porthpean Sailing Club and the Porthpean Beach Cafe can be found here.

A short walk over Carrickowel Point takes me to Du Porth Beach which means 'two coves' in Cornish. The beach is privately owned but accessible to the public and it's much quieter than Porthpean Beach.

I wander along the beach to the far end but the exit gate is locked and so I have to retrace my steps along the beach.

I regain the coast path and it takes me behind back gardens where I pass the Crinnis Cliff Battery, constructed around 1793 to defend the entrance to the new harbour at Charlestown. I climb down to reach Charlestown, an unspoilt example of a late Georgian working port, originally used to export copper and import coal but subsequently used to export china clay.

Nowadays it is much more recognized as a television and film location and has been used for The Onedin Line (Blimey! that was a long time ago!!), The Eagle has Landed, Longitude, Apocalypto and Doctor Who amongst others.

The sand and pebble beach here sits just outside the harbour. I have a spot of lunch here looking out over the harbour before setting off again.

I pass by the Pier House Hotel and Restaurant and The Harbourside Inn before rounding the harbour. The Charlestown Shipwreck and Heritage Centre is found at the head of the harbour.

I regain the cliffs and pass in front of Porth Avallen Hotel where I come across more wild flowers but also a patch of the dreaded japanese knotweed.

The path continues in front of Carlyon Bay Hotel before I descend down a concrete ramp to Carlyon Bay.

Carlyon Bay consists of three beaches, Crinnis, Polgaver and Shorthorn, and once upon a time it was lovely around here but on my previous visits had turned into an eyesore with the Cornwall Coliseum at the top of Crinnis Beach gradually falling into disrepair. The Coliseum was finally demolished in the Spring of 2015.

A series of poor planning decisions over a number of years has ruined Carlyon Bay and disgruntled the local residents, but the place looks like it is finally being redeveloped and there are plans to create a new beachside village with homes, restaurants, bars and cafes. Let's hope that the place finally gets back to the way it should be. There are still lines of steel shuttering, piles of ugly boulders and fences everywhere. Yuk!! But at least the beach is looking much more like a family beach again. You can keep up with developments at the Carlyon Bay Watch website.

There's even some pop up shops on the beach hinting at what may come including Ostraca Pop Up Oyster Bar and Sam's @ The Bay.

It's not clear to me whether there is an exit point at the far end of the beach so I head back up the concrete ramp to rejoin the coast path where it continues alongside the Carlyon Bay Golf Course and towards a disused china clay works at Spit Point.

I find a beach which is normally deserted just before reaching the china clay works but it's actually quite busy today. It is unmarked on my Ordnance Survey map but must be Spit Point Beach.

I enjoy the beach here before walking through the deserted and dusty china clay works to reach the hideously busy A3082. A lorry driver has suddenly decided that his lorry won't go under the 11 foot 9 inch railway bridge and is causing chaos by reversing back up the road.

The path continues past the Port of Par and then through the village of Par passing the Church of the Good Shepherd.

The coast path should lead down to Par Beach but on previous visits I haven't found any signs but I'm determined this time so I continue past the Welcome Home pub and finally find a sign pointing out the coast path. The signs dry up again but I follow a convoluted path which finally leads me to the beach at Par Sands.

I wander along the sandy beach and at the far end walk through the sand dunes to reach my lift at the car park.

My wide angle lens seems to be faulty so I might have to swap it for my cheap 18-55 lens for the rest of the holiday.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

chaffinches
chiffchaffs
red campion
foxgloves
speckled wood butterfiles
cows
sea thrift
house martins
rooks
bluebells
sheep
honeysuckle
swallows
skylarks
buzzards
elderflower
bird's-foot trefoil
kidney vetch
bladder campion
greater stitchwort

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.7 miles today which amounts to 34019 steps. After a misty start it turned into a lovely day with blue skies and it was properly hot. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 708.60 metres or 2324 feet.

Video

mevagissey to polmear from Mark Seymour on Vimeo.