plymouth

May 14, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

monday, 8th may 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be great with sunny spells all afternoon although I'm likely to be buffeted by winds.

I've always avoided Plymouth in the past as it's too big, dirty and noisy and so not really what I'm looking for walking the south west coast path. However I walked through a bit of Plymouth last year and rather enjoyed it so since I'm down here I thought I'd walk across the whole of Plymouth this afternoon..

After a morning spent archiving I start the walk across Plymouth on the slipway for the Cremyll Ferry at Admirals Hard in Stonehouse.

A sign here tells me that the walk across Plymouth to Jenny Cliff is 10 miles. That's a bit further than I was expecting according to my rough calculations using the Ordnance Survey map.

A rather worn metal tablet set in the ground says :-

“Welcome to Plymouth. Please wipe your feet.”

which I duly do.

I pass by a pub called The Vine, the first pub in Devon and immediately come across a red south west coast path marker. I don't know who has put these up but they will prove to be baffling and often contradictory to the usual acorn markers..

I wander along Cremyl Street following handily placed coast path signs on lamp posts and have occasional views of the marina. I pass the Victualling Office Tavern which is very definitely open and there are people inside (the last time I passed here the doors were closed and I wasn't sure whether it was open for business or not).

I approach the Royal William Yard and a wooden walkway takes me around the outside of the yard before I enter.

It's rather pleasant around here and there are plenty of places to eat and drink. I wander around the yard and climb a staircase designed by Gillespie Yunnie Architects, linking Royal William Yard to the public park above. The staircase is dedicated to the memory of Eric Wallis who was secretary of the South West Coast Path Association for 24 years.

I head off through Devil's Point Park and pass a sign highlighting Plymouth's fortifications and defences over the last 800 years and then pass a sign highlighting the limestone grasslands of Plymouth's waterfront. The sign lists a series of plants that can be found in the grass behind but it all just looks a bit scrubby to me.

I then take to the streets which lead me towards the centre of Plymouth. I walk along Durnford Street where I pass St Paul's Church.

Arthur Conan Doyle practised as a doctor here and there should be Sherlock Holmes quotations all over the place but I fail to see any. I pass the Royal Marine Barracks and turn right along Barrack Road and continue along Caroline Place which takes me towards Millbay Docks, home of the King Point Marina and the Brittany Ferries terminal.

I come across a 'Wall of Stars' which lists celebrities who have sailed from Plymouth.

I then pass some gold bullion stacked up on the pavement. In the 1930s gold was frequently sent from London to the United States via Millbay Docks.

I pass the Duke of Cornwall Hotel where stones set in the pavement show how the Eddystone Lighthouse was constructed. It just looks like a load of random geometric shapes fitted together to me.

I walk along West Hoe Road and come across another wall, this time the 'Wall of Industrial Memories', a display of reclaimed and replica signs illustrating the rich industrial heritage of the Millbay Docks area.

I pass the West Hoe pub and then walk along Great Western Road where I turn into a footpath next to the lifeboat station and come across yet another wall, this time the 'Royal Navy Millenium Wall'. They like their walls around here! This wall shows some of the Navy's vessels.

I pass West Hoe Pier where there is a harbour, built in 1880 and I have fine views over Plymouth's breakwater, built between 1811 and 1841.

I continue along Hoe Road and climb up onto Plymouth Hoe, home of Smeaton's Tower. This is the lighthouse originally built on Eddystone Rocks in 1750 but relocated here in 1882.

Below me I can see the Art Deco Tinside Lido, open to the public for bathing during the summer months.

I should have come across a statue of Sir Francis Drake marking the place where he finished a game of bowls before defeating the Spanish Armada in 1588, but I fail miserably.

I carry on along Madeira Road beneath the Royal Citadel, a dramatic 17th century fortress, built to defend the coastline from the Dutch. Much of it is covered in plastic, shuttering and scaffolding but it looks like the scaffolding is coming down. At the corner of the citadel I should have come across a commemoration on the pavement of the total eclipse of the sun in August 1999 but I failed to find this as well

I come across the Mayflower Steps where the Pilgrims left England aboard the Mayflower bound for North America in 1620.

There are numerous plaques on the walls here commemorating various events in history.

I amble around Sutton Harbour and the marina here, and should pass through a lock gate and head over a swingbridge but completely miss them. I continue right around the marina to reach the National Marine Aquarium only to find that the aforementioned swingbridge is closed so it's a good job I missed it!

I continue around the marina and pass through an area called Teats Hill where Plymouth Urban Buzz are planning to sow the seed to transform the grass here into a wildflower meadow.

I turn into Breakwater Hill where I pass a massive navigation beacon marking the south west coast path.

I pass a Saint Christopher medallion but I've no idea why it's here before walking along the rather more industrial Cattedown Road where the Cattedown Wharves can be found.

I pass the Passage House pub which is now, sadly, closed for business before turning into Maxwell Road where I come across an upturned navigation beacon being used as a bench.

I turn into Finnigan Road and cross the River Plym over New Laira Bridge, built in 1962, next to the old Laira Bridge railway bridge which is now a pedestrian and cycle path. It's rather noisy and busy with traffic.

I head along Billacombe Road and past The Morley Arms which doesn't look like it will survive much longer.

Guess what? I come across another wall, this time 'The Poem Wall'.

“wallflower
the wall is itself a wallflower
in a garden gashed by greed,
our sharpest of scalpels.
but it scans the rescuing skyline
where scots pines hold sway
over the retreating tide,
their infinite dignity
towering over the brazen pylons.
At dawn it can breathe again
with the silence of the boats on the mud beyond
and listen to secrets hidden
behind the scars of this wounded wilderness.”

I come across a rhino before reaching Pomphlett Lake.

I head up Oreston Road and then turn right into Rollis Park Road where I come across The Kings Arms, a pub which is still open!

I walk up Park Lane and then take a scabby path which plunges into darkness later on before leading to Radford Castle, a 19th century folly built on the dam between Radford Lake and Hooe Lake.

I pass a sewage works and then walk along Hexton Hill Road where I come across the Royal Oak.

I walk along Hooe Lake and then turn into Barton Road and then Undercliff Road and Boringdon Road where I come across The Boringdon Arms, which my notes say is shut but it very definitely isn't. I turn into St John's Road where I come across what my notes say is a closed New Inn but has presumably reopened as the rather cheerful looking Clovelly Bay Inn.

I climb down some steps to reach the marina (Plymouth Yacht Haven) at Turnchapel and I'm now almost done for the day. I pass the Mount Batten Centre and Hotel Mount Batten.

It's now time to catch the ferry back to the Barbican. It has been a thoroughly pleasant walk through Plymouth.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

echiums
red valerian
rape
seagulls
pigeons
wrens
herb robert
wallflowers
buddleia
fennel
ribwort plantain
ox eye daisies
hawthorn
kidney vetch

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 10.5 miles today which amounts to 22627 steps. It has been a lovely day's walking through Plymouth even if the last part of the walk was a bit shabby and circuitous. It has been warm and a bit blustery at times. Eight out of ten!

My total ascent today has been an unsurprisingly small 30 metres or 98 feet.

MAP

the river erme to aveton gifford

May 14, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

sunday, 7TH MAY 2017

Today's weather forecast looks much better than yesterday's murky gloom and it should be dry and warm-ish all day and I might well get some sun.

Salcombe high tide 16:55

Salcombe low tide 10:37

I resume my walking on a country lane at Black Cross Post about three quarters of a mile above Wonwell Beach, first thing in the morning. The plan for the day is to walk to Aveton Gifford which means I'll have to head a long way inland along the River Avon.

I enjoy the wildflowers romping away in the roadside verges and the birds are singing their hearts out. There are even pheasants squawking in the fields either side of the road.

I continue down the lane to reach Wonwell Beach and admire the fine views back across Erme Mouth. It's surprisingly busy at this time of the morning with rather a lot of dog walkers.

I join the coast path and head past Red Cove, East Mary's Rock and head around Ferrycombe Point. I have lovely views over the mouth of the River Erme at low-ish tide.

I walk across Ferrycombe Beach and climb back onto the low cliffs and I have lovely views over the River Erme and out to sea.

At Scobbiscombe Farm I'm greeted by the sound of skylark song and I come across my first orchids of the year, a patch of,presumably, early purple orchids.

There are bluebells and daisies everywhere.

I climb onto Beacon Point at 330 feet and I have my first views of Bigbury-on-Sea and Burgh Island in the distance.

I then climb onto Hoist Point, passing along the way Beacon Beach, Gutterslide Beach, Meddrick Rocks and Hoist Beach. After that there is a steep drop down to Westcombe Beach. It's pretty remote but the beach is rather busy with an extended family camping here.

I climb a steep set of steps and enjoy the fine views over the rugged South Devon coastline before climbing over cliffs to reach Ayrmer Cove.

The beach is deserted except for a couple of dog walkers so I spend some quality time wandering around, exploring the strandline.

I climb onto Toby's Point and now have fine views over to Burgh Island before dropping down to Challaborough Bay. Here can be found the Challaborough Bay Holiday Park. It's busier on Challaborough Beach but you wouldn't guess it from the photograph.

I amble across the beach admiring the views over to Burgh Island.

I climb off of the beach and head for Bigbury-on-Sea. I immediately come across a sign for Mount Folly Farm but I don't see any evidence of farmland. I head through Bigbury-on-Sea and then walk through the car park before briefly dropping down to the beach. This is as close as I'll get to Burgh Island today as I'm heading off on the Avon Estuary Walk.

I head back through the car park and follow signs over a couple of bits of scrubby grassland before crossing the B3392 and walking through a car park to reach a sign giving details of the ferry over the River Avon by Mount Folly Farm. It does exist then!

The ferry only seems to run between 10am and 11am and not at all on a Sunday so I'd have been buggered if I was relying on it. I'd no intention of catching it anyway as it seems a pointless service.

I head through the farm and a steeply descending path takes me down to the River Avon estuary, walking down a scabby path full of nettles before passing The Old Boat House. I don't remember coming this way before so the coast path must have been re-routed.

There's another ferry information panel by the river but I can't see any signs for the Avon Estuary Walk. My notes talk about taking some steps and I can't see any of those either. I head down the river but it's pretty clear quickly that there's no route down there.

I head back to the ferry and follow a steep path away from the ferry and pointing to Bigbury-on-Sea. After a bit of a climb I find an Avon Estuary Walk sign. Finally I'm on the right track again!

I scan the QR code back at our cottage and it does indeed work. I've found other audio clips of the Avon Estuary Walk on the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website.

I reach a metalled track at Bigbury Golf Club (popular with pheasants) and follow this track to the side of the golf course and then across it.

I pass through a gate next to a cattle grid and head through Hexdown, where I'm greeted by a rather angry collie dog, and then follow a footpath down towards a private drive, which I follow. It leads to a scrappy path where I have a brief glimpse of the river through trees

I wander along the footpath admiring the wildflowers. The path verges are covered in wild garlic which is emanating a lovely oniony smell.

The footpath continues through woods and passes some isolated houses before eventually reaching the B3392 but I turn right into a field before the road and follow a permissive path through fields.

I turn right across a field marked 'Milburn Orchard 1 1/2 m'. I then have a dilemma because a sign points in a vague direction. It looks like it's pointing along the field I'm in but there's also a field next door full of cows which also has a gate and what looks like a path parallel to the one in the field I'm in.

I choose the former which is a big mistake as it clearly isn't the correct path. I retrace my steps and then there is an almighty commotion and two runners force their way through the hedge next to me. They have been attacked by bulls in the next field. I clearly can't go that way either!

I retrace my steps again along the wrong path but I'm now lost. I walk through several fields and then come across a group of houses. I go through these and come to a road. There aren't any signs but it's dropping steeply down to my right so I follow it.

Luckily it drops down to the foreshore of the River Avon and, as it's far from high tide, I'm now able to follow the tidal road which takes me to Aveton Gifford where the Fishermen's Rest pub can be found. Phew!!

My lift awaits in the car park next to the end of the tidal road.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

bluebells
red and white campion
cow parsley
primroses
hogweed
herb robert
herb bennet
robins
wrens
chiffchaffs
pheasants
bugle
hawthorn
little egrets
skylarks
lords and ladies
stonechats
goldfinches
oystercatchers
swallows
early purple orchids
sea thrift
gorse
bladder campion
flag irises
red and white valerian

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.9 miles today which amounts to 30185 steps. The weather was a massive improvement on yesterday and made for perfect walking weather and apart from the near miss with the bulls has been a lovely day of walking. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 210 metres or 689 feet.

MAP

plymouth to the river erme

May 14, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 6TH MAY 2017

April has been a windy and cold, cold month with some biting winds at times but the weather has finally turned and I'm expecting warm weather for the entire week. It's time for a new season of walking the south west coast path.

Today's weather forecast doesn't look too good with rain set for the entire day but the rest of the week after that should be dry and sunny.

Plymouth high tide 15:49

Plymouth low tide 09:42

Today's walk starts at the Mountbatten Centre on the edge of the Plym estuary on the Mount Batten peninsula overlooking Plymouth. From here I pass the Hotel Mount Batten and the berth for the Mount Batten Ferry. It's a murky start to the day and rain is threatening.

I walk around the breakwater taking in memorials for RAF Mount Batten and Laurence of Arabia, who was stationed here but the memorials are rather worn now and very difficult to read. RAF Mount Batten was a Royal Air Force station and flying boat base but little of it remains today. I was last here in May 2014 when storm damage due to winter storms had wrecked some of the beaches around here but order has been resumed and everything is back to normal. Everything around here is starting to look a bit shabby though.

Steps lead up to the Mount Batten Tower, a 30 foot high gun tower which was used to guard the southern approach to Plymouth harbour. The tower is believed to have been built between 1646 and 1652 and was named after William Batten who commanded the Parliamentary navy in Plymouth during the Civil War.

I take in the views around Plymouth Sound before heading off of Mount Batten peninsula and on to Jennycliff, where there is a small pebble beach with rock pools. The beach was closed three years ago due to storm damage but is now back open.

A stone board shows what Plymouth Sound was like 20,000 years ago towards the end of the last Ice Age when the sea level was 130 metres lower than it is today and Plymouth Sound was dry. As the ice melted 10,000 years ago the sea flooded back into Plymouth Sound much as it looks today. At least the board should show me but it's even more worn than the previous two and I can barely make out any words.

I pass a marker saying :-

“Welcome to Plymouth. Please wipe your feet.”

I should come across another one of these when I walk across Plymouth on Monday.

I come across a marker which says that it's 175.5 miles to Poole. It's not! It's more like 230 miles by my calculations.

I climb down some steps and then up some steps and amble along the coast path. The wildflowers are looking lovely but my camera doesn't cope very well with the murky and damp conditions.

I come across a field full of sheep and there are swallows swooping across the field and skylarks singing. There are also runners everywhere. I have rather gloomy views back over Plymouth.

I reach the Staddon Heights Defences built in the 1860s to protect the surrounding area from enemy invasion. I head on high over a small harbour at Staddon Point and then descend to pass Staddon Point Battery and Fort Bovisand.

I pass Cliffedge Cafe and almost enter the Bovisand Lodge Estate but a footpath heads off to the right and I come across the dreaded japanese knotweed.

I drop onto the beach at Bovisand Bay and then pass through Bovisand Holiday Park and past Cafe Bovisands. I come across a clump of red hot pokers which cheer up the day a little.

I continue to amble along the coast path and watch the slow progress of a ship being escorted out of Plymouth harbour. I pass Andurn Point, Westlake Bay and Heybrook Bay where out to sea I can see Shag Stone (snigger!) and Crab Rock, enjoying the wildflowers along the way, before eventually reaching the Great Mew Stone, a wedged shape island just offshore owned by the National Trust. It gets its name from the old English name for the herring gull

I continue around Wembury Point, where I come across a small flock of canada geese, to reach Wembury Beach, a sandy beach at low tide. Here can be found Old Mill Cafe and Wembury Marine Centre.

I leave the beach and come across a sign saying it's 206 miles to poole. It's still not right but at least it's closer than the previous sign.

I climb up towards Saint Werburgh's Church and then amble along the cliffs, admiring the views over the Yealm estuary before climbing down to the ferry pier on the banks of the River Yealm.

I drop the sign for the ferry to alert the ferryman of my presence and the ferry arrives shortly. I climb aboard and then enjoy crossing the river to reach the shore at Noss Mayo. The crossing costs £3.50 but I tip extra and the ferryman promises to have a couple of beers on me that evening! It's a long old trek trying to get around the River Yealm!

I climb Noss Slip and pass Ferryman's Cottage where I come across an old sign showing the ferry tolls of yonder. Actually it can't be that old as I don't recall seeing it before and it's in remarkably good condition. 1 old pence to cross the Yealm? I was robbed!

I have some lovely, if murky, views back along the River Yealm.

I enter Passage Wood and the path winds its way out of the woods before entering Brakehill Plantation. Bluebells are everywhere and skylarks are singing their hearts out!

I come across a herd of cows with their young calves and swallows swooping around them. Stonechats are clacking away merrily in the gorse.

A pleasant walk crosses grassy and rugged slopes and I pass cove after cove starting with Silver Cove and continuing past Greylake Cove, Swaney Cove, Quarry Cove, Eden's Cove, Long Cove, Searush Cove, Saddle Cove, Bridge Cove, Dunny Cove, Withie Cove, Pilot Cove, Bloody Cove, Little Bloody Cove, Swale Cove and Rugger Cove. That's a lot of coves!

A gladed path leads past Stoke Point and there are wildflowers everywhere. There are usually lots of butterflies flitting around here but it's too gloomy today.

I reach a place which seems to be called Revelstoke but I can't see it on my map. I head downhill slightly through the caravan park here to photograph some irises.

I retrace my steps to rejoin the coast path and enter Carswell Farm before passing more coves, Church Cove, Row Cove, Sandy Cove, Pinkey's Cove and Long Cove. I reach Beacon Hill where there is a ruined lookout and I have a distinctly murky view.

I begin to see tomorrow's walk laid out before me and the coast path then drops steeply into a grassy hollow before climbing steeply out again.

I pass yet more coves, Ivy Cove, Carswell Cove, and another Carswell Cove (not very imaginative naming!) on the way to St Anchorite's Rock, an impressive looking large rocky tor and I pass lovely clumps of sea thrift looking their best. They've only just started to come into flower at home.

The path eventually drops down to Meadowfoot Beach at the head of the River Erme which I briefly have all to myself before I'm joined by a couple of dog walkers. They promptly manage to lose their dog.

I cross the sandy beach and can hear the dog walkers calling for their dog as I climb some steps away from the beach and then walk through woods to reach the Mothecombe Slipway at Erme Mouth. Here my day ends as the only way to cross the River Erme is to ford it one hour either side of low tide. Since I can't swim, there's no way I'm going to chance it. It's also close to high tide so even fording is out of the question.

Instead I head inland up the minor road to the car park nearby where my lift is waiting to take us back to our home for the week, Heron's Rest. Since I've built up a bit of a thirst some bottles of Doom Bar await in the fridge back at the cottage.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
red valerian
bluebells
robins
chaffinches
herb robert
garlic mustard
pheasants
wrens
herb bennet
chiffchaffs
sheep
swallows
skylarks
gorse
whitethroat (might have been the lesser)
ox eye daisies
japanese knotweed
red hot pokers
sea thrift
gunnera
wild carrot
foxgloves
canada geese
oystercatchers
little egrets
curlew
song thrushes
wild garlic
cow parsley
green alkanet
stonechats
cows
irises
bugle

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.1 miles today which amounts to 41440 steps. The weather has been murky and mizzly but I've rather enjoyed myself today at the start of the season's coast path walking even though the beginning of the walk felt a bit shabby. Seven out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app failed me today.

MAP

port isaac to padstow

October 02, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

wednesday, 28th september 2016

After yesterday's filthy weather it looks like it will be much better today. It's not going to be particularly warm but at least it should be dry and the wind has died down a bit.

Padstow low tide 10:54

Padstow high tide 16:50

I start the day back in the car park at the top of Port Isaac and head down a tarmac path which leads in to the village, passing autumnal flowers along the way.

I head down the hill towards the harbour, passing all of the touristy shops. Fortunately it's still pretty early so the village isn't heaving yet with Doc Martin fans.

I have views over the harbour before I pass the Golden Lion (@GLportisaac) and head down the slipway onto the beach.

A narrow road leads uphill out of Port Isaac and I have lovely early morning views back over the beach and harbour.

I climb some granite steps and enjoy more of the autumnal flowers before walking around the edge of a field on Lobber Point and then drop into a valley and cross a footbridge at Pine Haven. I now have left Port Isaac behind me and continue on the rollercoaster ride from yesterday.

I climb up a long flight of steps and pass Varley Sand before heading around Varley Head. I'm now above Greengarden Cove and continue along the coast path around Scarnor Point and above Downgate Cove and walk along the cliffs above Reedy Cliff.

I round Kellan Head and I can now see the narrow inlet of Port Quin. I drop gently down to Port Quin and pass underneath scaffolding enveloping a National Trust cottage here. There are several workers above me on the scaffolding repointing the cottage.

I head out onto and enjoy the beach. There used to be a thriving pilchard industry here as well as mining activities but these have both long ago dried up.

I pass holiday cottages and then take the minor road out of Port Quin and climb over a stone stile and cut inland of Doyden Point, passing a truncated gothic tower, Doyden Castle, built in 1827 and now turned into a holiday cottage.

I enjoy more of the autumnal flowers and come across several small copper butterflies. It is going to be a good day for butterflies.

The coast path passes a couple of mine shafts surrounded by slate fencing posts. These mines are known as Gilson's Cove mine or Doyden Point mine and produced a mixture of silver, lead and antimony and also a bit of copper.

Between the two shafts the coast path runs through the middle of a horse whim that was used to haul materials from the mine.

I climb gently onto Trevan Point and cross a stream above the beach and caves at Epphaven Cove. It's an inviting looking beach at low tide but doesn't look to be very accessible, involving a scramble down rocks.

I pass behind Lundy Beach which, again, looks very inviting but you need to take a wooden flight of steps and then a scramble over rocks to reach the beach.

Just past the beach I reach the arch at Lundy Hole.

“There is a legend that as St. Menfre was combing her hair the devil appeared in front of her and was so taken back he dug Lundy Hole. ”

Legends can often be utter nonsense!

I pass Great Lobb's Rock and suddenly there are dog walkers everywhere. I head out onto Carnweather Point and I hear the lovely sound of a chiff chaff which I haven't heard for several months now. I pass over Downhedge Cove and pass disused quarries where I come across a peacock butterfly. Second butterfly species spotted and photographed. I also come across a wall butterfly but it disappears before I have a chance to whip out my camera.

I pass Pengirt Cove before climbing over Com Head and I now have fine views over Polzeath. These views soon disappear though.

I walk through a gate marked as Jean & Eric's gate. Who knows who Jean and Eric are/were. I continue along the path towards Rumps Point and out to sea is The Mouls. I come across a speckled wood butterfly. Third butterfly species spotted and photographed. I then come across the elusive wall butterfly. It's not perched in the most attractive place but fourth butterfly species spotted and photographed.

The path swings sharply to the left before Rumps Point and heads out towards Pentire Point.

I clamber behind Pentire Point where I now have magnificent, if slightly murky, views over Hayle Bay towards Polzeath.

I also have lovely views across Padstow Bay and the Camel estuary towards my destination for the day, Padstow.

I descend gently on grassy slopes and Polzeath quickly gets closer and closer.

I climb down to the beach at Pentireglaze Haven and the tide is far enough out for me to head out onto the beach and walk directly across to Polzeath Beach. It's been a while since I've had a decent stroll along a sandy beach.

I amble across the beach before briefly heading out on the road but a coast path sign points me down a path which leads out onto The Greenway where I now have views across The Doom Bar, named after a particularly fine local beer!

I head along the path above Broadagogue Cove and Greenaway Beach and gently descend towards Daymer Bay, another favourite beach of mine.

I head out onto the beach at Fishing Cove Field and amble slowly along the sand. St Enodoc Church can be found just inland here but I continue along the beach passing the grassy slope of Brea Hill and beneath St Enodoc Golf Club, towards Rock.

As I approach the ferry I have the pleasant surprise of a singing skylark over the dunes behind me. It's been a couple of months since I've had the pleasure of hearing a skylark out on my walks at home.

Here I catch the ferry across to Padstow which costs me £4 for a return ticket. I don't even bother getting off the boat and instead catch the ferry straight back across to Rock.

I head for the Rock Inn where I enjoy chips, salad and a thirst quenching pint of Tribute. It's rather busy and very noisy after being out on the coast all day. That's my walking done for the day, week and the end of the South West Coast Path walking for the year.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

ragwort
red valerian
sedum
fuchsias
dahlias
common knapweed
clover
common toadflax
devil's-bit scabious
gorse
bracken
blackberries
spent sea thrift
wrens
small copper butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
a peacock butterfly
wall butterflies
red campion
honeysuckle
betony
herb robert
ivy
a peregrine
cormorants
a skylark

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 13 miles today which amounts to 29424 steps. The weather, although not great, was a massive improvement on yesterday and it has been lovely to stretch my legs along long sandy beaches. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 484 metres or 1587 feet.

MAP

boscastle to port isaac

October 02, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 27th september 2016

It properly chucked it down all day yesterday. Fortunately it was a rest day and a day for archiving but I'm expecting the coast path to be a bit slippery and muddy after so much rain. The weather forecast for today isn't great but it's better than yesterday.

Port Isaac low tide 09:47

Port Isaac high tide 15:53

I start the day back in Boscastle at the car park next to the shops and walk down through the village passing the Cobweb Inn and the bridge over the river before heading along the tarmac path next to the harbour. I pass the Boscastle Fishing Company (@BoscastleFish) shop, the National Trust's second hand bookshop and their shop and cafe. I reach the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic (@witchmuseum) and head over the footbridge.

It begins to rain and it's one of those drizzly misty rains that somehow manages to soak you without raining much. Nice! It's not going to be a good day for photographs.

I pass next to the harbour wall and have some final views of the village before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have some lovely views of the sheltered inlet to the harbour.

I pass clumps of sea thrift flowering much later than they do back at home and stop to photograph some of the sodden flowers on the path.

I pass a white tower on Willapark, built in 1827 as a summer home. There are the remains of man made rabbit warrens here. I head out along the cliffs passing Grower Rock and the Ladies Window rock arch. I have magnificent views back to where I've come from, at least I should have but it's extremely murky out.

I now pass numerous sea stacks, Short Island, Long Island and the rocks that make up Saddle Rocks before coming across a cow blocking the path. She hangs around for a photograph before ambling off. I don't think she's that impressed with the weather either.

I head above Trambley Cove and Trewethet Cove before reaching Rocky Valley. It certainly lives up to its name. I cross a footbridge at the head of the valley and then climb steps up the other side.

I head over Benoath Cove and Bossinney Haven and walk inland of a headland before heading off across Smith's Cliff on the seaward side of Camelot Castle Hotel and Tintagel.

I've now reached Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head and drop down to Castle Cove to explore the beach and Merlin's Cave. It feels wild and remote today but was once a hive of mining, slate quarrying and fishing activity. Beyond Merlin's Cave there is King Arthur Mine, driven into the headland and worked for silver and lead in the 19th century.

I head up towards the castle and then double back on myself as the coast path doesn't run this way. I pass the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines and climb back up onto the cliffs. I'm suddenly enveloped in thick fog.

I head towards St Materiana's Church but don't see it until the last minute because of the fog. Odd name for a church and I don't know why it's called this. The cover of the first edition of possibly my favourite book, A Month in the Country by J L Carr, featured this church even though the book itself was set in Yorkshire.

I pass a sign in the churchyard warning me about the presence of ADDERS!!!! No adder is going to be foolish enough to be about today.

I completely lose my sense of direction in the fog and head off in the wrong direction before correcting myself. I continue along a track, passing Tintagel Youth Hostel which is so engulfed in fog I can barely make it out.

It is now a rocky path over Glebe Cliff, around Dunderhole Point, Gull Point, Higher Penhallic Point and Lower Penhallic Point passing quarries on the way. It should be a familiar path but I can't see a thing.

I climb down the cliff to reach Trebarwith Strand, one of my favourite beaches. The path down is lethal after all of the rain and fog. The trouble is that Trebarwith Strand disappears completely at high tide. Although I'm not really close to high tide the beach has all but disappeared so there's just rocks and a tiny bit of sand.

I attempt to climb down to what's left of the beach but as soon as I step out on to the rocks I start sliding down. This is not good. My boots do not like wet rock so I have to abandon going down to the beach.

I return to Trebarwith Strand a couple of days later to enjoy the beach in much better weather conditions.

I climb steeply out of Trebarwith Strand, passing The Port William, and I have final views over the strand before heading back along the cliffs.

The views, bad as they are, don't last for long and I'm enveloped in fog once again. I can now barely make out Trebarwith Strand in the thick fog.

I round Dennis Point and then drop down into the valley behind Backways Cove.

I then head along an easy path above Treligga Cliff and then cross a stone slab bridge above Tregardock Beach. I briefly drop down to the beach but it's clear that it has all but disappeared.

I retrace my steps and climb up onto Tregardock Cliff. The path is overhung by rusting barbed wire waiting to spike anyone who slips on the muddy path. Thanks Mr nice farmer. I come across some fellow coast path walkers. One of them has been walking for the past three and a half weeks all the way from Plymouth. None of us are enjoying the conditions.

I amble along not enjoying the non existent views before the going gets a bit difficult along Jacket's Point. I cross a footbridge above a waterfall and then climb a load of steps before crossing several valleys to reach Barrett's Zawn. It is extremely tough going slipping and sliding on the mud and slippery rocks.

The weather threatens to improve and I even spot a bit of blue sky, briefly. I can now make out Port Isaac, not that far away. The improvement doesn't last long and the weather descends back into mist and drizzle.

I continue along the top of Bounds Cliff and pass over Pigeon's Cove, St Illickswell Gug and Rams Hole before rounding Tresungers Point.

I drop down to the road at what was once Headlands Hotel but is now derelict. I walk down into Port Gaverne, passing the Port Gaverne Restaurant and Hotel. Even the concrete path next to the hotel feels slippy as I gingerly descend.

I follow the road steeply uphill out of Port Gaverne to reach my destination for the day, the car park above Port Isaac. It has been one manky, wet, wild and windy walk.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

hydrangeas
grey wagtails
robins
sea thrift
heather
red campion
ragwort
hemp agrimony
common toadflax
clover
cows
no adders

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.9 miles today which amounts to 38064 steps. This is normally a lovely walk but the weather has been terrible and I haven't seen a thing all day long. The path has been treacherous and I've slipped and slid my way along taking probably two hours longer than I usually would. The photographs have been rubbish and I couldn't even get out on to Trebarwith Strand. Seven out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 822 metres or 2696 feet.