tintagel to port isaac

May 27, 2023 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

Thursday, 11TH MAY 2023

The weather forecast for today isn’t great but I’ve been hampered by poor weather all week and this is the last chance to get in some walking, so I’ll just have to take my chances.

Port Isaac high tide 10:00

Port Isaac low tide 16:15

I’m dropped off on the outskirts of Tintagel and follow a footpath down to the coast path covered in wild flowers, heading for Barras Nose.

A coast path sign tells me that Trebarwith Strand is two and a quarter miles away. I’m beginning to doubt the accuracy of these signs.

I reach Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head. Blimey! That’s an expensive entrance fee.

I pass the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines and climb back up onto the cliffs where it starts raining.

I head towards St Materiana's Church above Glebe Cliff. Odd name for a church and I don't know why it's called this. The cover of the first edition of possibly my favourite book, A Month in the Country by J L Carr, featured this church even though the book itself was set in Yorkshire.

I continue along a track, passing Tintagel Youth Hostel.

The weather can’t seem to make up its mind and I’m battered by heavy showers followed by sunny spells which results in a lot of rainbows.

It is now a rocky path over Glebe Cliff, around Dunderhole Point, Gull Point, Higher Penhallic Point and Lower Penhallic Point passing quarries on the way.

I climb my way gingerly down the cliff to reach Trebarwith Strand, one of my favourite beaches. The trouble is that I’m close to high tide and the beach has been completely consumed by the sea. The path down is lethal after the rain.

I climb steeply out of Trebarwith Strand, passing The Port William, and I have final views over the strand before heading back along the cliffs.

I now have stonechats for company, clicking away in the shrubs and I can see Port Isaac not that far away in the distance.

I round Dennis Point and then drop down into the valley behind Backways Cove.

I then head along an easy path above Treligga Cliff and then cross a stone slab bridge above Tregardock Beach.

I climb up onto Tregardock Cliff. It’s a stinky, narrow and muddy path, overhung by rusting barbed wire waiting to spike anyone who slips.

I reach Dannonchapel and come across a coast path sign that tells me that Port Isaac is only three and three quarter miles away.

port isaac three and three quarter miles away

It has finally turned into a glorious day and I have lovely views over to Port Isaac and back to Trebarwith.

I slip and slide along until the going gets a bit difficult along Jacket's Point. I cross a footbridge above a waterfall and then climb a load of steps before crossing several valleys to reach Barrett's Zawn. It is extremely tough going slipping and sliding on the mud and slippery rocks.

I continue along the top of Bounds Cliff and pass over Pigeon's Cove, St Illickswell Gug and Rams Hole before rounding Tresungers Point.

I drop down to the road at what was once Headlands Hotel but is now derelict. I walk down into Port Gaverne, passing the Port Gaverne Restaurant and Hotel.

I follow the road steeply uphill out of Port Gaverne to reach my destination for the day, the car park above Port Isaac.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

pheasants
wall butterfly
small copper butterfly
oystercatchers
stonechats
gorse
red campion
bladder campion
sea thrift
foxgloves
spring squill
ribwort plantain
kidney vetch
bluebells
ox-eye daisy
navelwort
common sorrel
birds-foot trefoil
oxslip
stitchwort
common dog-violet
red valerian
hawthorn

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 10.7 miles which amounts to 27843 steps. It has taken me five and a quarter hours. The weather was stinky to start with but improved massively. Despite slipping and sliding through mud much of the day, eight out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

port isaac to polzeath

September 14, 2019 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 7TH SEPTEMBER 2019

After yesterday's squally rain it looks like the weather will be much better today. It's not going to be particularly warm but at least it should be dry and the wind has died down a bit.

Port Isaac high tide 12:12

Port Isaac low tide 18:40

I start the day in the car park at the top of Port Isaac. I head down a tarmac path which leads into the village, passing autumnal flowers along the way

Fortunately it's still pretty early so the village isn't heaving yet with Doc Martin fans. I head down the hill towards the harbour, passing all of the touristy shops.

I pass the Golden Lion (@GLportisaac) and the Port Isaac lifeboat station before I have views over the harbour and I head down the slipway onto the beach.

The Port Isaac Shanty Festival starts today and a stage is being set up at the top of the beach. I enjoy the beach for a while before heading uphill out of Port Isaac.

I now have lovely views over the beach and harbour and I enjoy the wild flowers next to the coast path. I spot a hummingbird hawk-moth and for a change manage to photograph it.

I climb up some granite steps before walking around the edge of a field on Lobber Point. I cross a footbridge at Pine Haven.

I climb up a long flight of steps before heading around Varly Head, passing Varley Sand. I’m now above Greengarden Cove and I continue along the coast path around Scarnor Point. I pass above Downgate Cove and walk along the cliffs above Reedy Cliff.

I climb gently down from Kellan Head towards Port Quin.

Port Quin is now a short hop away and I head out onto the rather rocky Port Quin Beach. There used to be a thriving pilchard industry here as well as mining activities but these have both long ago dried up and the teeny village is now owned by the National Trust.

I head out on the beach for a bit. I spot a man sat at the top of the beach wearing wellies, a bright orange jacket and a flat cap. He gets out a bag and then pulls out a load of paintbrushes and starts to paint on some paper.

Hang on a sec! I recognize that man. He’s Kurt Jackson!! Needless to say I leave him to his peaceful painting.

I leave Port Quin via the road before climbing over a stone stile. I cut inland of Doyden Point, passing a truncated gothic tower, Doyden Castle, built in 1827 and now turned into a holiday cottage.

I continue along the coast path passing a couple of mine shafts surrounded by slate fencing posts. These mines are known as Gilson's Cove mine or Doyden Point mine and produced a mixture of silver, lead and antimony and also a bit of copper.

Between the two shafts the coast path runs through the middle of a horse whim that was used to haul materials from the mine.

I climb gently onto Trevan Point and enjoy the wild flowers where I also come across a small copper butterfly. I also spot a red admiral and a small tortoiseshell butterfly but they prove to be too flighty to photograph.

I continue along the coast and come across Epphaven Cove where I can cross a stream over the beach and caves. It’s a bit of a scramble down to the beach but there’s no beach today anyway with the tide so far in.

Between Epphaven Cove and Lundy Hole Beach I come across a painted lady butterfly.

I continue along the coast path to reach Lundy Hole Beach. It’s rather a small beach and entirely covered by the tide except for boulders at the head of the beach. There is a wooden flight of steps which takes you down to the boulders but it’s a bit of a scramble after that to reach any sand.

I climb down the steps to do some recording and then retrace my steps and continue along the coast path to reach the arch at Lundy Hole. There is a legend that as St. Menfre was combing her hair the devil appeared in front of her and was so taken aback he dug Lundy Hole. What a load of old nonsense!

I pass Great Lobb's Rock and then pass by Downhedge Cove, Pengirt Cove and head above Sandinway Beach, passing several disused quarries and enjoying the wild flowers along the way. I also come across a wall brown butterfly and a raggedy speckled wood butterfly.

The large offshore rock behind the eastern headland of The Rumps is known as The Mouls and is a breeding site for puffins, gannets and kittiwakes in summer but they are presumably long gone now.

The path continues towards The Rumps before swinging sharply to the left where I head towards Pentire Point and come across a herd of lazy cows lying on the coast path.

The Rumps were formerly an Iron Age Cliff Castle with excellent defensive capability due to the constricted neck leading out to the twin headlands.

I now change direction and start to have some protection from the cold northerly winds. I can now see across to the infamous Doom Bar sandbank where the River Camel meets the Atlantic Ocean. The sandbank is revered as a formidable nautical challenge that should be approached with respect and navigated with skill. Or so my pint glass tells me!

I now have magnificent views over Hayle Bay towards Polzeath.

I descend towards Pentire Haven but the sand is covered up so I climb back onto the cliffs and head towards Pentireglaze Haven. There’s sand here and I normally walk across this beach straight onto Polzeath Beach but the tide is in too far today.

I head back onto the cliffs and amble along before dropping down to Polzeath Beach where I head straight out onto the beach. It’s rather busy but that’s probably not surprising as it’s a Saturday and the weather is rather good. There are a lot of people out on the surf.

I amble back along the beach heading towards Polzeath village where I pass the Waterfront Bar and Grill (@WaterFront_Polz).

Fortunately I found a public footpath from our holiday cottage down to Polzeath yesterday afternoon otherwise I would have had to traipse along roads back to the cottage.

The footpath takes me out of Polzeath and I have one final round of photographing the wild flowers before heading across The Point golf course and my walking is done for the day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

white valerian
red valerian
hummingbird hawk-moth
fuchsia
tansy
crocosmia
acanthus
oxeye daisy
buddleia
ragwort
honeysuckle
common toadflax
red campion
sea thrift
ribwort plantain
cows
cormorants
bladder campion
small copper butterfly
red admiral butterfly
small tortoiseshell butterfly
betony
knapweed
painted lady butterfly
blackberries
sloes
herb robert
gorse
cat’s ear
wall brown butterfly
hawthorn
heather
speckled wood butterfly
mullein
himalayan balsam

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.3 miles today which amounts to 26879 steps. It has been nice to get back out on the south west coast path after three months away and it has been a lovely day’s walking. Nine out of ten!

My total elevation today is 489 feet or 149 metres.

MAP

port isaac to padstow

October 02, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

wednesday, 28th september 2016

After yesterday's filthy weather it looks like it will be much better today. It's not going to be particularly warm but at least it should be dry and the wind has died down a bit.

Padstow low tide 10:54

Padstow high tide 16:50

I start the day back in the car park at the top of Port Isaac and head down a tarmac path which leads in to the village, passing autumnal flowers along the way.

I head down the hill towards the harbour, passing all of the touristy shops. Fortunately it's still pretty early so the village isn't heaving yet with Doc Martin fans.

I have views over the harbour before I pass the Golden Lion (@GLportisaac) and head down the slipway onto the beach.

A narrow road leads uphill out of Port Isaac and I have lovely early morning views back over the beach and harbour.

I climb some granite steps and enjoy more of the autumnal flowers before walking around the edge of a field on Lobber Point and then drop into a valley and cross a footbridge at Pine Haven. I now have left Port Isaac behind me and continue on the rollercoaster ride from yesterday.

I climb up a long flight of steps and pass Varley Sand before heading around Varley Head. I'm now above Greengarden Cove and continue along the coast path around Scarnor Point and above Downgate Cove and walk along the cliffs above Reedy Cliff.

I round Kellan Head and I can now see the narrow inlet of Port Quin. I drop gently down to Port Quin and pass underneath scaffolding enveloping a National Trust cottage here. There are several workers above me on the scaffolding repointing the cottage.

I head out onto and enjoy the beach. There used to be a thriving pilchard industry here as well as mining activities but these have both long ago dried up.

I pass holiday cottages and then take the minor road out of Port Quin and climb over a stone stile and cut inland of Doyden Point, passing a truncated gothic tower, Doyden Castle, built in 1827 and now turned into a holiday cottage.

I enjoy more of the autumnal flowers and come across several small copper butterflies. It is going to be a good day for butterflies.

The coast path passes a couple of mine shafts surrounded by slate fencing posts. These mines are known as Gilson's Cove mine or Doyden Point mine and produced a mixture of silver, lead and antimony and also a bit of copper.

Between the two shafts the coast path runs through the middle of a horse whim that was used to haul materials from the mine.

I climb gently onto Trevan Point and cross a stream above the beach and caves at Epphaven Cove. It's an inviting looking beach at low tide but doesn't look to be very accessible, involving a scramble down rocks.

I pass behind Lundy Beach which, again, looks very inviting but you need to take a wooden flight of steps and then a scramble over rocks to reach the beach.

Just past the beach I reach the arch at Lundy Hole.

“There is a legend that as St. Menfre was combing her hair the devil appeared in front of her and was so taken back he dug Lundy Hole. ”

Legends can often be utter nonsense!

I pass Great Lobb's Rock and suddenly there are dog walkers everywhere. I head out onto Carnweather Point and I hear the lovely sound of a chiff chaff which I haven't heard for several months now. I pass over Downhedge Cove and pass disused quarries where I come across a peacock butterfly. Second butterfly species spotted and photographed. I also come across a wall butterfly but it disappears before I have a chance to whip out my camera.

I pass Pengirt Cove before climbing over Com Head and I now have fine views over Polzeath. These views soon disappear though.

I walk through a gate marked as Jean & Eric's gate. Who knows who Jean and Eric are/were. I continue along the path towards Rumps Point and out to sea is The Mouls. I come across a speckled wood butterfly. Third butterfly species spotted and photographed. I then come across the elusive wall butterfly. It's not perched in the most attractive place but fourth butterfly species spotted and photographed.

The path swings sharply to the left before Rumps Point and heads out towards Pentire Point.

I clamber behind Pentire Point where I now have magnificent, if slightly murky, views over Hayle Bay towards Polzeath.

I also have lovely views across Padstow Bay and the Camel estuary towards my destination for the day, Padstow.

I descend gently on grassy slopes and Polzeath quickly gets closer and closer.

I climb down to the beach at Pentireglaze Haven and the tide is far enough out for me to head out onto the beach and walk directly across to Polzeath Beach. It's been a while since I've had a decent stroll along a sandy beach.

I amble across the beach before briefly heading out on the road but a coast path sign points me down a path which leads out onto The Greenway where I now have views across The Doom Bar, named after a particularly fine local beer!

I head along the path above Broadagogue Cove and Greenaway Beach and gently descend towards Daymer Bay, another favourite beach of mine.

I head out onto the beach at Fishing Cove Field and amble slowly along the sand. St Enodoc Church can be found just inland here but I continue along the beach passing the grassy slope of Brea Hill and beneath St Enodoc Golf Club, towards Rock.

As I approach the ferry I have the pleasant surprise of a singing skylark over the dunes behind me. It's been a couple of months since I've had the pleasure of hearing a skylark out on my walks at home.

Here I catch the ferry across to Padstow which costs me £4 for a return ticket. I don't even bother getting off the boat and instead catch the ferry straight back across to Rock.

I head for the Rock Inn where I enjoy chips, salad and a thirst quenching pint of Tribute. It's rather busy and very noisy after being out on the coast all day. That's my walking done for the day, week and the end of the South West Coast Path walking for the year.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

ragwort
red valerian
sedum
fuchsias
dahlias
common knapweed
clover
common toadflax
devil's-bit scabious
gorse
bracken
blackberries
spent sea thrift
wrens
small copper butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
a peacock butterfly
wall butterflies
red campion
honeysuckle
betony
herb robert
ivy
a peregrine
cormorants
a skylark

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 13 miles today which amounts to 29424 steps. The weather, although not great, was a massive improvement on yesterday and it has been lovely to stretch my legs along long sandy beaches. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 484 metres or 1587 feet.

MAP

boscastle to port isaac

October 02, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 27th september 2016

It properly chucked it down all day yesterday. Fortunately it was a rest day and a day for archiving but I'm expecting the coast path to be a bit slippery and muddy after so much rain. The weather forecast for today isn't great but it's better than yesterday.

Port Isaac low tide 09:47

Port Isaac high tide 15:53

I start the day back in Boscastle at the car park next to the shops and walk down through the village passing the Cobweb Inn and the bridge over the river before heading along the tarmac path next to the harbour. I pass the Boscastle Fishing Company (@BoscastleFish) shop, the National Trust's second hand bookshop and their shop and cafe. I reach the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic (@witchmuseum) and head over the footbridge.

It begins to rain and it's one of those drizzly misty rains that somehow manages to soak you without raining much. Nice! It's not going to be a good day for photographs.

I pass next to the harbour wall and have some final views of the village before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have some lovely views of the sheltered inlet to the harbour.

I pass clumps of sea thrift flowering much later than they do back at home and stop to photograph some of the sodden flowers on the path.

I pass a white tower on Willapark, built in 1827 as a summer home. There are the remains of man made rabbit warrens here. I head out along the cliffs passing Grower Rock and the Ladies Window rock arch. I have magnificent views back to where I've come from, at least I should have but it's extremely murky out.

I now pass numerous sea stacks, Short Island, Long Island and the rocks that make up Saddle Rocks before coming across a cow blocking the path. She hangs around for a photograph before ambling off. I don't think she's that impressed with the weather either.

I head above Trambley Cove and Trewethet Cove before reaching Rocky Valley. It certainly lives up to its name. I cross a footbridge at the head of the valley and then climb steps up the other side.

I head over Benoath Cove and Bossinney Haven and walk inland of a headland before heading off across Smith's Cliff on the seaward side of Camelot Castle Hotel and Tintagel.

I've now reached Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head and drop down to Castle Cove to explore the beach and Merlin's Cave. It feels wild and remote today but was once a hive of mining, slate quarrying and fishing activity. Beyond Merlin's Cave there is King Arthur Mine, driven into the headland and worked for silver and lead in the 19th century.

I head up towards the castle and then double back on myself as the coast path doesn't run this way. I pass the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines and climb back up onto the cliffs. I'm suddenly enveloped in thick fog.

I head towards St Materiana's Church but don't see it until the last minute because of the fog. Odd name for a church and I don't know why it's called this. The cover of the first edition of possibly my favourite book, A Month in the Country by J L Carr, featured this church even though the book itself was set in Yorkshire.

I pass a sign in the churchyard warning me about the presence of ADDERS!!!! No adder is going to be foolish enough to be about today.

I completely lose my sense of direction in the fog and head off in the wrong direction before correcting myself. I continue along a track, passing Tintagel Youth Hostel which is so engulfed in fog I can barely make it out.

It is now a rocky path over Glebe Cliff, around Dunderhole Point, Gull Point, Higher Penhallic Point and Lower Penhallic Point passing quarries on the way. It should be a familiar path but I can't see a thing.

I climb down the cliff to reach Trebarwith Strand, one of my favourite beaches. The path down is lethal after all of the rain and fog. The trouble is that Trebarwith Strand disappears completely at high tide. Although I'm not really close to high tide the beach has all but disappeared so there's just rocks and a tiny bit of sand.

I attempt to climb down to what's left of the beach but as soon as I step out on to the rocks I start sliding down. This is not good. My boots do not like wet rock so I have to abandon going down to the beach.

I return to Trebarwith Strand a couple of days later to enjoy the beach in much better weather conditions.

I climb steeply out of Trebarwith Strand, passing The Port William, and I have final views over the strand before heading back along the cliffs.

The views, bad as they are, don't last for long and I'm enveloped in fog once again. I can now barely make out Trebarwith Strand in the think fog.

I round Dennis Point and then drop down into the valley behind Backways Cove.

I then head along an easy path above Treligga Cliff and then cross a stone slab bridge above Tregardock Beach. I briefly drop down to the beach but it's clear that it has all but disappeared.

I retrace my steps and climb up onto Tregardock Cliff. The path is overhung by rusting barbed wire waiting to spike anyone who slips on the muddy path. Thanks Mr nice farmer. I come across some fellow coast path walkers. One of them has been walking for the past three and a half weeks all the way from Plymouth. None of us are enjoying the conditions.

I amble along not enjoying the non existent views before the going gets a bit difficult along Jacket's Point. I cross a footbridge above a waterfall and then climb a load of steps before crossing several valleys to reach Barrett's Zawn. It is extremely tough going slipping and sliding on the mud and slippery rocks.

The weather threatens to improve and I even spot a bit of blue sky, briefly. I can now make out Port Isaac, not that far away. The improvement doesn't last long and the weather descends back into mist and drizzle.

I continue along the top of Bounds Cliff and pass over Pigeon's Cove, St Illickswell Gug and Rams Hole before rounding Tresungers Point.

I drop down to the road at what was once Headlands Hotel but is now derelict. I walk down into Port Gaverne, passing the Port Gaverne Restaurant and Hotel. Even the concrete path next to the hotel feels slippy as I gingerly descend.

I follow the road steeply uphill out of Port Gaverne to reach my destination for the day, the car park above Port Isaac. It has been one manky, wet, wild and windy walk.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

hydrangeas
grey wagtails
robins
sea thrift
heather
red campion
ragwort
hemp agrimony
common toadflax
clover
cows
no adders

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.9 miles today which amounts to 38064 steps. This is normally a lovely walk but the weather has been terrible and I haven't seen a thing all day long. The path has been treacherous and I've slipped and slid my way along taking probably two hours longer than I usually would. The photographs have been rubbish and I couldn't even get out on to Trebarwith Strand. Seven out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 822 metres or 2696 feet.