boscastle to tintagel

May 27, 2023 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

wednesday, 10TH may 2023

The weather forecast for today looks OK if a little on the cold side and with the possibility of rain.

Boscastle high tide 09:43

Boscastle low tide 15:14

I pass next to the harbour wall and have some final views of the village before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have some lovely views of the sheltered inlet to the harbour.

I come across a sign telling me that Tintagel is three and a half miles away. I don’t think so. If it is it’s going to be a very short walk!

There are plenty of wildflowers around but my camera is playing up today. It’s a new camera to replace my battered old field camera. I thought I’d tested it enough over the last couple of weeks to get used to it but a lot of todays photographs are under exposed.

I pass a white tower on Willapark, built in 1827 as a summer home.

There are the remains of man made rabbit warrens here. I head out along the cliffs passing Grower Rock and the Ladies Window rock arch. I have magnificent views back to where I've come from.

I now pass numerous sea stacks, Short Island, Long Island and the rocks that make up Saddle Rocks.

I revert to my iPhone to see if it’s any good at taking close up photographs of the wildflowers but I don’t particularly like the results.

I come across another signpost telling me that Tintagel is still three and a half miles away!

tintagel still three and a half miles away

I head above Trambley Cove and Trewethet Cove before reaching Rocky Valley. It certainly lives up to its name. I gingerly clamber down one side of the valley, cross a footbridge over the stream in the middle of the valley and then climb steps up the other side. It is a wild and beautiful place but it is infested with the dreaded japanese knotweed.

It has turned into an unexpectedly lovely day and I now have spectacular views over towards Tintagel.

I head over Benoath Cove and Bossinney Haven which are both closed due to falling rocks.

I walk inland of a headland before heading off across Smith's Cliff on the seaward side of Camelot Castle Hotel and Tintagel.

Before reaching Barras Nose I pass a fellow coast path walker who’s heading in the opposite direction and is carrying a MASSIVE amount of luggage.

I reach Barras Nose and my walking for the day is almost at a close.

I've now reached Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head. It feels wild and remote today but was once a hive of mining, slate quarrying and fishing activity. Beyond Merlin's Cave there is King Arthur Mine, driven into the headland and worked for silver and lead in the 19th century.

I head up towards the castle before passing the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines. I then follow an access road which takes me up to the village of Tintagel. I wander through the village to the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

sea thrift
cowslips
bladder campion
common dog-violet
common sorrel
gorse
red campion
bluebells
ribwort plantain
navelwort
herb robert
bugle
kidney vetch
japanese knotweed
celandines
rabbits
wrens
chaffinches
chiffchaffs
goldfinches
wall butterfly
stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 6.2 miles (not 3.5 miles) which amounts to 15833 steps. It has taken me three hours. A pleasant short walk in what turned out to be lovely weather. Nine out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

crackington haven to boscastle

May 27, 2023 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 9TH may 2023

Yesterday was a right off as it rained all day long. The forecast for today is pretty ropey and my weather forecast app is showing rain and thunderstorms.

Bude high tide 08:40

Bude low tide 14:59

I head down to the beach at Crackington Haven first thing in the morning. The sea is looking rather angry and it is very misty.

It is now a rollercoaster ride to Boscastle. I climb out of Crackington Haven and head over three footbridges. On the slopes above Crackington Haven I come across lots of rather damp spring wild flowers.

At Carn Draught I zig zag up the steep cliff and then amble along a wriggly path through gorse. This turns out to be completely the wrong way and I briefly confuse myself when I do rejoin the coast path by going in the wrong direction. I quickly correct myself.

I amble along the cliffs, where I should have lovely views back over Crackington Haven but it’s too misty to see much. I walk above Little Strand, Samphire Rock and The Strangles but the mist has become so thick that I can’t see anything.

Out of the mist appear some animals which I first think are cows, then sheep but turn out to be goats.

I’m not particularly expecting orchids this week but I come across a couple of early purple orchids.

I should come across an outcrop of folded rocks around here but I still can’t see anything.

I head up and down High Cliff and the MASSIVE Rusey Cliff but it’s not until I’ve conquered them both that I realize that they were even there due to the mist. I first encountered these two in 2006 when I thought they were staggeringly big and the blood thundered in my head as I tried to climb them. Nowadays I barely notice that they are there!

There is apparently a tricky descent to Rusey Beach but I can’t see a thing and it's probably too dangerous today anyway. I head towards Gull Rock.

The going gets slightly easier and I head along the cliffs passing Saddle Rock, Beeny Sisters and around Fire Beacon Point and pass Seal's Hole before doubling back on myself around a valley at Pentargon, crossing above a waterfall. I still see very little but I think the mist is trying to start to clear.

I climb up a long flight of steps at Hillsborough and pass a rather nice patch of early purple orchids. The mist is definitely clearing and a brief shower passes over me.

I now have views over the higher part of the village of Boscastle.

I head out towards Penally Point and suddenly I can see the harbour at Boscastle.

I swing back downhill and walk down a narrow road past a number of cottages and buildings to reach the bridge over the river.

That's my walking done for the day so I head for the car park where my lift awaits. It has been a short walk today and I’ve barely seen anything because of the mist.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

song thrush
chiffchaffs
red campion
common dog-violet
sea thrift
herb robert
bracken
foxglove, almost in flower
bluebells
kidney vetch
gorse
common sorrel
navelwort
cowslip
bladder campion
goats
early purple orchids
wall butterfly
rabbits
swallows
sand martins
oystercatchers

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 8.1 miles which amounts to 21268 steps. It has taken me three and three quarter hours. A short walk today and I barely saw anything because of the mist but it somehow stayed virtually dry. Eight out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

boscastle to port isaac

October 02, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 27th september 2016

It properly chucked it down all day yesterday. Fortunately it was a rest day and a day for archiving but I'm expecting the coast path to be a bit slippery and muddy after so much rain. The weather forecast for today isn't great but it's better than yesterday.

Port Isaac low tide 09:47

Port Isaac high tide 15:53

I start the day back in Boscastle at the car park next to the shops and walk down through the village passing the Cobweb Inn and the bridge over the river before heading along the tarmac path next to the harbour. I pass the Boscastle Fishing Company (@BoscastleFish) shop, the National Trust's second hand bookshop and their shop and cafe. I reach the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic (@witchmuseum) and head over the footbridge.

It begins to rain and it's one of those drizzly misty rains that somehow manages to soak you without raining much. Nice! It's not going to be a good day for photographs.

I pass next to the harbour wall and have some final views of the village before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have some lovely views of the sheltered inlet to the harbour.

I pass clumps of sea thrift flowering much later than they do back at home and stop to photograph some of the sodden flowers on the path.

I pass a white tower on Willapark, built in 1827 as a summer home. There are the remains of man made rabbit warrens here. I head out along the cliffs passing Grower Rock and the Ladies Window rock arch. I have magnificent views back to where I've come from, at least I should have but it's extremely murky out.

I now pass numerous sea stacks, Short Island, Long Island and the rocks that make up Saddle Rocks before coming across a cow blocking the path. She hangs around for a photograph before ambling off. I don't think she's that impressed with the weather either.

I head above Trambley Cove and Trewethet Cove before reaching Rocky Valley. It certainly lives up to its name. I cross a footbridge at the head of the valley and then climb steps up the other side.

I head over Benoath Cove and Bossinney Haven and walk inland of a headland before heading off across Smith's Cliff on the seaward side of Camelot Castle Hotel and Tintagel.

I've now reached Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head and drop down to Castle Cove to explore the beach and Merlin's Cave. It feels wild and remote today but was once a hive of mining, slate quarrying and fishing activity. Beyond Merlin's Cave there is King Arthur Mine, driven into the headland and worked for silver and lead in the 19th century.

I head up towards the castle and then double back on myself as the coast path doesn't run this way. I pass the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines and climb back up onto the cliffs. I'm suddenly enveloped in thick fog.

I head towards St Materiana's Church but don't see it until the last minute because of the fog. Odd name for a church and I don't know why it's called this. The cover of the first edition of possibly my favourite book, A Month in the Country by J L Carr, featured this church even though the book itself was set in Yorkshire.

I pass a sign in the churchyard warning me about the presence of ADDERS!!!! No adder is going to be foolish enough to be about today.

I completely lose my sense of direction in the fog and head off in the wrong direction before correcting myself. I continue along a track, passing Tintagel Youth Hostel which is so engulfed in fog I can barely make it out.

It is now a rocky path over Glebe Cliff, around Dunderhole Point, Gull Point, Higher Penhallic Point and Lower Penhallic Point passing quarries on the way. It should be a familiar path but I can't see a thing.

I climb down the cliff to reach Trebarwith Strand, one of my favourite beaches. The path down is lethal after all of the rain and fog. The trouble is that Trebarwith Strand disappears completely at high tide. Although I'm not really close to high tide the beach has all but disappeared so there's just rocks and a tiny bit of sand.

I attempt to climb down to what's left of the beach but as soon as I step out on to the rocks I start sliding down. This is not good. My boots do not like wet rock so I have to abandon going down to the beach.

I return to Trebarwith Strand a couple of days later to enjoy the beach in much better weather conditions.

I climb steeply out of Trebarwith Strand, passing The Port William, and I have final views over the strand before heading back along the cliffs.

The views, bad as they are, don't last for long and I'm enveloped in fog once again. I can now barely make out Trebarwith Strand in the think fog.

I round Dennis Point and then drop down into the valley behind Backways Cove.

I then head along an easy path above Treligga Cliff and then cross a stone slab bridge above Tregardock Beach. I briefly drop down to the beach but it's clear that it has all but disappeared.

I retrace my steps and climb up onto Tregardock Cliff. The path is overhung by rusting barbed wire waiting to spike anyone who slips on the muddy path. Thanks Mr nice farmer. I come across some fellow coast path walkers. One of them has been walking for the past three and a half weeks all the way from Plymouth. None of us are enjoying the conditions.

I amble along not enjoying the non existent views before the going gets a bit difficult along Jacket's Point. I cross a footbridge above a waterfall and then climb a load of steps before crossing several valleys to reach Barrett's Zawn. It is extremely tough going slipping and sliding on the mud and slippery rocks.

The weather threatens to improve and I even spot a bit of blue sky, briefly. I can now make out Port Isaac, not that far away. The improvement doesn't last long and the weather descends back into mist and drizzle.

I continue along the top of Bounds Cliff and pass over Pigeon's Cove, St Illickswell Gug and Rams Hole before rounding Tresungers Point.

I drop down to the road at what was once Headlands Hotel but is now derelict. I walk down into Port Gaverne, passing the Port Gaverne Restaurant and Hotel. Even the concrete path next to the hotel feels slippy as I gingerly descend.

I follow the road steeply uphill out of Port Gaverne to reach my destination for the day, the car park above Port Isaac. It has been one manky, wet, wild and windy walk.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

hydrangeas
grey wagtails
robins
sea thrift
heather
red campion
ragwort
hemp agrimony
common toadflax
clover
cows
no adders

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.9 miles today which amounts to 38064 steps. This is normally a lovely walk but the weather has been terrible and I haven't seen a thing all day long. The path has been treacherous and I've slipped and slid my way along taking probably two hours longer than I usually would. The photographs have been rubbish and I couldn't even get out on to Trebarwith Strand. Seven out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 822 metres or 2696 feet.

MAP

bude to boscastle

October 02, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 25th september 2016

It chucked it down overnight but the bad weather was clear by the morning and the forecast is for quite a nice day if a little cold and blustery.

Boscastle low tide 07:11

Boscastle high tide 13:40

I start the day back in stinky Bude in the car park behind Summerleaze Beach. I head out onto the beach where it is blowing a gale.

I head back along the beach and take a footbridge over the River Neet and then a wooden lockbridge over Bude Canal.

I pass Efford Cottage, built in 1820 and head on a path towards the coast. My hat barely stays on my head despite the fact that it is tightly strapped on.

I pass the eight sided storm tower on Compass Point, built in the 1820s as a coastguard shelter. I try to shelter from the wind inside but it's basically useless as a storm shelter.

I wander along grassy slopes where I pass Efford Beacon trig point, number S5629.

I now have lovely views back over stinky Bude.

I pass the Elements Cafe Bar, Italian Restaurant and Hotel and then wander through Phillip's Point Nature Reserve and enjoy the late season flowers here.

I pass Higher Longbeak and then Lower Longbeak with its funerary round barrow and a rainbow appears in the sky behind me.

I descend towards Widemouth Sand, passing the Bay View Inn. I walk along the beach at Widemouth Bay heading towards Black Rock before heading back up onto the cliffs. The photographs suggest that it is a glorious day but the reality is that it's blowing a gale and I'm struggling to stay on my feet.

I head along a rocky track before crossing a stream where a fellow coast path walker passes me. I head along the minor road passing the Outdoor Adventure Centre and climb up onto Penhalt Cliff where I have some lovely views back towards Bude at a car park, and pass my fellow coast path walker as she takes a drink.

I pass Foxhole Point and then Bridwill Point before climbing steeply down to Millook. It's time to dig out the walking pole as the path is slippery and tricky to navigate. I wander down the road and head out onto pebbly Millook Haven Beach.

I waste far too much time here and get lapped by my fellow coast path walker again and I see her head up through the vegetation on the cliffs from the beach

I climb steeply up the road and then regain the cliffs and have lovely views ahead of me. I enter woods at Dizzard Point, which are blissfully peaceful and filter out the wind perfectly, before entering fields and bush covered slopes, passing Chipman Cliff, Stoneivy Rock and the cave at Mot's Hole.

Along the way I pass Dizzard Point trig point, number S5612. I also overtake my fellow coast path walker one final time.

I have magnificent views ahead of me before coming across the deepest valley I think I've ever come across. It doesn't even appear to be marked on my Ordnance Survey map but the National Trust have it down as Lower Tresmorn. There's nothing 'lower' about it. The photograph does it no justice. I clamber slowly down the valley, cross a footbridge and then clamber gingerly up the other side, being constantly whipped by the blustery wind.

I look back over the valley and spot my fellow coast path walker one last time. She's a tiny dot climbing slowly down the cliff. The path heads out to Castle Point and passes Little Barton Strand and Great Barton Strand and heads towards Pencannow Point before darting back towards Crackington Haven where I come across a friendly herd of cows.

I now have lovely views over Crackington Haven and I head down the slopes to the village, enjoying the flowers and berries next to the path.

I pass the Coombe Barton Inn and head down to enjoy the beach here as well as the heavily folded rocks

It is now a rollercoaster ride to Boscastle. I climb out of Crackington Haven and head over three footbridges. On the slopes above Crackington Haven I come across my fourth small copper butterfly of the year. Not the greatest of photographs but there you go.

I amble along the cliffs, where I have lovely views back over Crackington Haven and walk above Little Strand, Samphire Rock, The Strangles and head along High Cliff.

I come across an outcrop of folded rocks.

Next up is the MASSIVE Rusey Cliff and I'm beginning to feel the effect of all of the climbing. There is apparently a tricky descent to Rusey Beach but I don't see it and it's probably too dangerous today anyway. I head towards Gull Rock.

It continues to be tricky going but I head along the cliffs passing Saddle Rock, Beeny Sisters and around Fire Beacon Point and pass Seal's Hole before doubling back on myself around a valley at Pentargon, crossing above a waterfall. The wind is forcing the waterfall to fall back on itself.

I head out towards Penally Point and suddenly I can see the harbour at Boscastle.

It has been hard going all day long but I'm finally almost at the end. I swing back downhill and walk down a narrow road past a number of cottages and buildings to reach the bridge over the river.

There's one last piece of excitement for the day as there's an ambulance on the bridge!

That's my walking done for the day so I head for the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red valerian
common toadflax
common knapweed
devil's-bit scabious
fleabane
cat's ear
honeysuckle
heather
ragwort
ivy
red campion
small copper butterfly
cows
sheep
horses
hydrangeas
elderberries
blackberries
the odd bit of sea thrift

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.5 miles today which amounts to 48010 steps. Ouch! It has been a wild and windy day again and the going has been tough since leaving Bude. The walking is just about as good as it gets. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been a massive 1174 metres or 3851 feet. Look at that graph! What a rollercoaster ride!!