holywell to portreath

September 17, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 15th september 2015

After yesterday's spectacularly atrocious weather I'm in for a much better day today. The wind has abated and I should even see the sun today.

Perranporth high tide 07:02

Perranporth low tide 13:13

Today I'm back in tin mining country and I'll encounter the remnants of this industry all day long.

I start the day back at Holywell Bay beach where I enjoy the fine, golden sand. It's a much calmer scene today and I can actually stand upright on the beach. I head back into the dune system where a footbridge takes me over the river.

A sign warns me that adders may be basking on sunny days in the dunes but I don't see any.

A now overgrown big, red sign warns me about the dangers of entering Penhale Army Training Area. Odd because Penhale Camp was closed by the Ministry of Defence in April 2010 and partially sold off in September of the same year.

I round Penhale Point, taking one last glance back over Holywell.

I avoid the mine shafts and continue along the cliffs above Hobblyn's Cove.

Penhale Camp is now the home to the Penhale Military Adventure Training Centre and offers a broad range of military adventurous training.

I round Ligger Point and have magnificent views along Perran Bay. I can see that the waves are crashing against the cliffs in the distance so I won't be able to make it all the way along the beach to Perranporth. I think I can make out an exit point about a mile down the beach so I should be able to make it onto the dune system.

I wander down the path to reach Perran Beach and I now hopefully have a one mile trudge along fine, golden sands before clambering back onto the sand dunes to reach Perranporth.

Behind the beach is Penhale Sands, the most extensive system of sand dunes in Cornwall.

About a mile down the beach I come to the exit point next to the lifeguard station and I clamber up the steep concrete path and then wander through the dune system to reach the beach at Perranporth.

I wander along the beach front at Perranporth, passing the Black Flag Brewery (@blackflagbrews) and the Tywarnhayle Inn (@tywarnhayleinn) and climb up Cliff Road passing above the Seiners Arms (@SeinersArms) to leave Perranporth, where I have fine views back across the town and beach.

I pass a sundial thing pointing north and loads of flowers and memorials including this rather sad one …..

“An angel in the book of life
wrote down our baby’s birth
and whispered as she closed the book
too beautiful for earth”

I walk behind the rather ugly Droskyn Castle and pass the youth hostel on Droskyn Point. I pass a memorial bench and next to it is a pile of stones. I assume the two are related somehow.

I'm now firmly in tin mining country and I walk through a scarred landscape of capped mine shafts, crumbling buildings and spoil heaps.

The gorse and heather is making the top of the cliffs very colourful.

I head across Cligga Head and amble along the crumbling cliffs next to Perranporth Airfield, now home to Perranporth Flying Club but once a Second World War airfield. I don't see or hear any planes. The British and Colonial Explosive Works, opened in 1893, used to exist here but were largely destroyed by the construction of the airfield.

I pass some concrete bunkers and I can now see the village of St Agnes climbing up the valley above Trevaunance Cove.

I head down into the valley at Trevellas Combe, where there is a shingly and stony beach. The valley here was heavily mined and various remains of Blue Hills Mine, which closed in 1897, can be found here, including the crumbling engine house.

I head inland next to the road and river to reach Blue Hills Tin Streams. The valley floor here once contained extensive tin stream works, used to recover any tin that could be gleaned from the river.

I cross a road bridge and then trudge up a steep track before descending to Trevaunance Cove, at the foot of the village of St Agnes.

Five attempts were made to construct an artificial harbour here to serve the mines in the surrounding area but all that remains are a pile of granite blocks at the bottom of the cliff, once part of the breakwater.

granite blocks at the bottom of the cliff

I wander back up to St Agnes heading slightly inland but not quite reaching the Driftwood Spars (@driftwoodspars). I follow the road out of Trevaunance Cove which leads me to Trevaunance Point where I have a lovely view back over the cove next to some dahlias.

I follow the path to St Agnes Head, on the way passing the remains of what was once Polberro Mine. I walk underneath the National Coastwatch station and then follow the cliffs in a southerly direction and have magnificent views back to Penhale Sands and forward over Chapel Porth and Porthtowan.

I pass Tubby's Head, home to an Iron Age promontory fort before passing below the photogenic and much photographed (and that includes by me!) Towanroath pumping engine house at Wheal Coates, built in 1872 and now owned by the National Trust.

The coast path eventually leads me to Chapel Porth, home to the Chapel Porth Beach Cafe. I wander down to the beach and enjoy the sand before heading inland past the cafe and next to the stream.

Inland slightly can be found Wheal Charlotte, opened in 1806 but with a ropey mining history and now owned by the National Trust.

I cross the stream and then walk inland up a gentle path before swinging sharply back round again and climb uphill on to the cliffs where I come across more spoil heaps. I amble along the cliffs, admiring the views over Porthtowan.

I drop down to the village, walking past the Blue Bar beach cafe, and head out on to the large sandy beach. This is one of the best surfing beaches around and there's a bit of action out on the waves today.

Within the valley leading down to the sea at Porthtowan can be found Wheal Ellen with its distinctive castellated chimney stack, Tywarnhaile Mines and United Hills. In the heart of the village can be found Wheal Lushington, built in the 1880s, but the company building it went bankrupt before the engine could be installed and it is now a residential house.

I head back up the beach and pass the Unicorn before following the road up to what was once the Beach Hotel but where apartments appear to have been built.

I continue along a track set back from the cliffs and pass Gullyn Rock and Sheep Rock, next to the fence surrounding what was once Portreath Airfield on Nancekuke Common. Warning signs keep telling me that I'm walking next to MOD property and should KEEP OUT. Quite why the MOD needs so much land sitting idly I do not know.

The walking towards Portreath is pretty uneventful except having to climb down and up steps at a couple of steep valleys.

I walk along Lighthouse Hill with views over the harbour and the beach at Portreath.

The road takes me down to The Square where I find the Portreath Arms and Portreath Bakery. From here it's a short walk past the harbour and The Waterfront Inn (@beachpub) and up to the car park above the beach.

That's my walking finished for the week.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

heather
gorse
bracken
gulls
hemp agrimony
oystercatchers
wrens
robins
red admiral
hawthorn
dahlias
red and white valerian
apples
large flowered evening primroses
hydrangeas
crocosmia
small tortoiseshell
swallows
goldfinches

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.5 miles today which amounts to 41534 steps. After yesterday's terrible weather it has been lovely walking today and the views have been magnificent. Nine out of ten!

porthcothan to holywell

September 14, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

monday, 14th september 2015

The weather forecast for the day is truly atrocious. And, for once, the weather turns out to be much worse than the forecast. I had to cope with heavy rain for most of the day and the wind was blowing an almighty gale. The screenshot of my weather app below does not do the weather justice. It was comfortably the worst weather I've ever walked in which meant that I was unable to take any photos or make any recordings so today's walk will be a very short posting for record only. I did make it all the way in one piece though! Just about!!

I do have a spare day at the end of the week so I may try to walk this one again.

Newquay high tide 06:33

Newquay low tide 12:47

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.75 miles today which amounts to 40180 steps. The terrible conditions meant that I barely saw anything but it was an exhilarating ride. Nine out of ten!

padstow to porthcothan

September 13, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

saturday, 12th september 2015

The weather forecast for the day is not great. It looks like I'll be in for a dull and cold day which is pretty much par for the course this year. The weather forecast for the rest of the week looks to be much worse. Oh dear!

Padstow high tide 05:45

Padstow low tide 12:07

It's almost exactly ten years ago to the day since I first set out on the South West Coast Path. My first day of walking was on the 11th of September 2005 from Falmouth to Porthallow. This day also happened to be the fourth day of the Ashes test at the Oval which England would go on to draw to regain the Ashes for the first time in 18 years. Times have changed. This was a pre iPhone era without any GPS tracking and where the only way I could keep up with the Ashes was via intermittent text messages whenever I could get a phone signal. Anyway …..

I start a new walking week at the harbour in Padstow. Padstow is normally heaving with tourists but I'm setting off fairly early so I have the whole town practically to myself except for some dog walkers and some early morning visitors to the bakery.

This walk is one of my favourite walks. It's pretty easy walking but I'll have fine sandy beaches all the way round to Porthcothan.

I wander around the harbour passing the The Old Custom House, The Harbour Inn and The Shipwrights (@theshipwrights).

I climb out of Padstow at the other side of the harbour, walk through a gate and then follow grassy slopes up to the granite war memorial overlooking Daymer Bay and the Camel estuary. The war memorial always signals the end of any crowds and I should just have dog walkers and surfers for company for the rest of today.

I deviate from the coast path slightly and clamber over rocks to visit St George's Cove, which I've never visited before. It was definitely worth the detour and it's a fine, white sandy beach and a lovely way to start the day. I'm even starting to see some bits of blue sky.

If the tide is out you can walk from St George's Cove straight to Harbour Cove but the tide is in too far today so I climb some steps back up to the coast path. I reach Harbour Cove and the coast path meanders behind the beach but the sand is far too enticing so I head out across the beach instead. I have the whole beach to myself except for one dog walker. Out at the mouth of the estuary can be seen The Doom Bar, named after a rather tasty beer from Sharp's Brewery!

On the way to Hawker's Cove I pass wildflowers clinging on to the end of the season, including some large flowered evening primroses, hemp agrimony, honeysuckle and water mint.

I have some final views back over harbour cove where a number of gulls have congregated.

At Hawker's Cove I come across a small group of buildings and head along a road before passing between two rows of cottages. The Padstow lifeboat was stationed here until 1967, before being relocated to Mother Ivey's Bay due to river silting. I'll pass the newer lifeboat station a bit later on today.

I have lovely views back over the Camel estuary and I do believe the sky is slightly bluer.

I head towards Stepper Point and walk below the coastguard station here and then pass a daymark, which served as a navigation beacon for seafarers during daylight hours. The sky is now very definitely blue but it is blowing a gale and sheltering inside the daymark didn't work.

I amble along the cliffs and pass Pepper Hole and Butter Hole and head along the grassy slopes to Gunver Head, passing Fox Hole. I pass a blow-hole, Round Hole, at Roundhole Point, an 80 feet deep hole in the cliffs formed from a collapsed cave, and have lovely views over Trevone Bay.

I walk down towards the beach car park and then head out on to the beach and enjoy the fine sand. I head across the beach and climb up steps out of Trevone Bay.

The path continues above a rocky beach towards Harlyn Bay and I come across a sign telling me that corn buntings nest here between May and September. Unfortunately I don't see any. At Harlyn Bay I climb down steps to reach the fine, sandy beach. The Harlyn Inn can be found handily placed next to the beach for thirsty walkers.

This beach walking is becoming a bit monotonous now, but I make my way down to the sea and walk along the beach, dodging the waves. There are a few surfers enjoying the surf.

As you walk along the beach it doesn't look obvious that there's an exit off the beach at the far end, but there is and I climb back onto the low cliff near to a stone house. There is also another exit a bit further along using a slipway.

I take one last look back over Harlyn Bay and its surfers and then climb gently up onto Cataclews Point.

The coast path continues along the cliffs around Mother Ivey's Bay and another sign tells me about corn buntings nesting in the area. Swallows and swifts are flying all around me. I climb down onto the fine, sandy beach using a steep beach access road. It's surprisingly quiet so I do some exploration before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have views across to the lifeboat station, clinging to the bottom of the cliffs.

The path heads inland before reaching the access road to the lifeboat station. I come across moths and bees enjoying the wild flowers here but mostly the red valerian. I've no idea what sort of moths they are and they were flitting about too quickly for me to photograph them. I also see several red admirals and a solitary small tortoiseshell butterfly.

The coast path continues through fields towards Trevose Head and rounds the headland, passing behind the lighthouse here.

I cross the lighthouse access road and complete the traversal of Trevose Head by passing the tumulus on Dinas Head.

I now have magnificent views across Constantine Bay, one of my favourite places on the coast path.

I amble down the slopes and clamber down over rocks to reach Booby's Bay (snigger!!). I explore the rock pools here and then head out onto the wide sandy beach for some paddling.

The tide has turned so I can't quite make it straight over to Constantine Bay and so have to strap my boots back on and clamber back over rocks. A short walk along the path takes me down on to Constantine Bay, one of the best surfing beaches in Cornwall. The surfers are out in numbers and should you want to join them, you can get supplies from the Constantine Bay Surf Store (@Constantinesurf) in the village behind the beach.

I continue my walk along this beautiful, sandy beach before reluctantly coming ashore at a slipway.

I take one last, admiring glance back over Constantine Bay and then follow a narrow road and track towards Treyarnon Point. I round Treyarnon Point and descend down to Treyarnon Bay, yet another sandy beach, passing the youth hostel and cafe.

There can't be many more beaches like this, can there? It's rather busier here than I like but I cross the sandy beach and climb out of the bay next to a pink ice cream caravan, home to Rose's Ice Cream, and behind a clifftop cottage.

A grassy path rounds several headlands and coves and, dare I say it, the path almost takes on a rugged nature. Out at sea can be found the Minnows Islands.

The coast path suddenly reveals Porthcothan Bay and I climb down the scrubby slopes to reach the road and village of Porthcothan. I pass the village shop at the head of the beach which is closed until the Spring of 2016 due to a change in ownership. I wander out onto the final sandy beach of the day, and another of my favourite places.

The last time I was here a rock arch could be seen guarding the bay but this was destroyed in the storms of January 2014.

As per usual the place is very quiet so I enjoy one last sandy beach before heading back past the village store to find my lift in the car park behind the beach.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

swallows
turnstones
honeysuckle
hemp agrimony
water mint
red admirals
nasturtiums
crocosmia
magpies
blackberries
sloes
field scabious
rabbits
mushrooms
peregrines
(end of season) sea thrift
wheatears
cows
great tits
speckled wood butterflies
red valerian
bees and moths

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16.5 miles today which amounts to 36238 steps. This is a good 3 miles further than my book tells me it should be. It has been magnificent walking in surprisingly good and warm weather, if a bit on the windy side. Ten out of ten!

porthcurno to penzance

June 14, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

WEDNESDAY, 10TH JUNE 2015

I'm set for another day of beautiful weather with sun all day long and no sign of rain. Can't believe this is now four walking days on the trot with decent weather after some of the rubbish we've had this year!

Penzance high tide 11:35

Penzance low tide 18:15

I start the day back at the car park behind the beach at Porthcurno. I briefly explore the beach before heading back past the Cable Hut, part of Porthcurno Telegraph Museum, to pick up the coast path out of Porthcurno.

I set off on a bushy path towards Treryn Dinas and Logan Rock with outstanding views back to Porthcurno and on to Penzance, hidden in the distance. There are foxgloves everywhere.

People have occupied the rocky promontory of Treryn Dinas since prehistoric times and the ramparts and ditches of an iron age promontory fort can be seen today, defending the landward side of the headland.

At the end of the headland is Logan Rock or rocking stone. 80 tons in weight, the stone was dislodged in 1824 by a group of "high-spirited" (i.e. drunk!) British seamen. The stone was restored with the help of 60 men using 13 capstans with blocks and chains at a cost of £130 8s 6d.

I follow a rugged path around Cribba Head and descend to Penberth Cove. Penberth Cove was once home to a pilchard fishing industry and a slabbed area here was used for landing fish. A handful of local fishermen still make their living from fishing for mackeral, lobster and crab and there are boats, nets and lobster pots dotted around.

The coast path continues seawards of a cottage by the sea and climbs up a rugged slope away from the village. I round Le Scathe Cove and pass The Gazzels and descend down to the stream at Porthguarnon Cove.

The path ascends steeply again above Trevedran Cliff. I walk through woods behind a large house and round Merthen Point back a bit from the edge of the cliff towards St Loy. I leave St Loy over the bouldery beach. In the distance I think I can make out the Scillonian III heading for the Isles of Scilly.

I pass high above St Loy's Cove and Paynter's Cove and walk over Boscawen Cliff high above Chough Zawn and Zawn Gamper. I pass by the lighthouse on Tater-du and over Rosemodress Cliff before descending to the bottom of Tregurnow Cliff.

The wildflowers around here are looking amazing and the foxgloves are in even greater density than I came across earlier on today. There's even some hawthorn still in flower.

I pass by the Derek and Jeannie Tangye Minack Chronicles Nature Reserve. It's a shame I don't have more time to explore. Derek Tangye was the author of a number of popular books about Cornwall.

I then follow a rocky path to reach Lamorna Cove. The rocks make the going very tricky to negotiate and I'm not the only one struggling to make progress. Unfortunately the tide is in so there's no sandy beach to explore. A little inland can be found The Lamorna Wink.

I leave Lamorna Cove by climbing the cliff through an old quarry and head around Carn-du and pass Kemyel Point.

The coast path goes through Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve, a woodland dominated by Monterey pine trees.

The path rises to Penzer Point and at Point Spaniard, joins the road before heading down Raginnis Hill towards Mousehole. I wander randomly along the narrow streets here to reach the harbour.

I wander around the harbour and follow the road signposted for Newlyn and Penzance, passing The Ship Inn and The Old Coastguard Hotel (@leroundhouse).

On the road to Newlyn there are fine views over to St Michael's Mount and Marazion.

I pass the old Penlee Lifeboat Station. There aren't any lifeboats stationed here anymore but the station is still maintained and a small memorial garden has been created to remember the 8 crew of the Solomon Browne who lost their lives on the 19th of December 1981.

The new Penlee Lifeboat Station (@penleelifeboat) was moved to Newlyn in 1983 and I'll pass it shortly.

I pass japanese knotweed control zones which look more like 'out of control' zones. The coast path ducks down below the road for a bit and I come across masses of wild flowers.

I also encounter painted lady butterflies and I finally manage to capture one on camera.

The concrete walls here are covered in graffiti.

The coast path re-joins the road as I enter Newlyn. In Newlyn I pass the Fishermans Arms Inn, the Red Lion Inn, the Star Inn and the Swordfish Inn.

I walk along the harbour passing the aforementioned lifeboat station.

The place stinks of fish! Not surprising since this is the home of Newlyn Fish Market.

I cross the bridge over the river next to the Seaman's Mission, pass The Tolcarne Inn and then walk next to the Bolitho Gardens.

I walk along the promenade just above the shingly beach towards Penzance and pass the Jubilee Pool which is still not open after the winter storms of 2014. There are plans to refurbish it but it looks to be in a worse state than when I passed it a year ago.

At the harbour I pass The Dolphin Tavern (@dolphinpz), The Dock Inn and the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre (@IOSTRAVEL). I walk over the swingbridge next to the dry dock and reach my destination for the day, the car park at Penzance. That's my walking done for the week. I'll be back in Cornwall in early September.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

flag irises
gunnera
red admirals
fuchsias
horse chestnuts
monterey pine trees
buzzards
herb robert
gladioli
echiums
painted lady butterflies
orange tip butterflies
caper spurge
japanese knotweed
chaffinches
red campion
bracken
gorse
speckled wood butterflies
ox-eye daises
foxgloves
bladder campion

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.8 miles today which amounts to 29454 steps. It has been magnificent walking in glorious weather for a fourth day on the trot. Nine out of ten!

pendeen watch to porthcurno

June 11, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

TUESDAY, 9TH JUNE 2015

I have another decent weather forecast today. This is becoming repetitive! It looks like I'll have sun all day long and although the temperature won't be breaking any records again, at least it will be warm and there's no chance of rain.

St Ives high tide 10:54

St Ives low tide 17:05

I start today's walk at the car park above Pendeen Watch lighthouse. One of my favourite walks today despite the fact that it goes through the stinky dump that is Land's End!

I've learnt from previous walks to head up the road a bit rather than start walking straightaway on what looks like the coast path but soon peters out on a gorse infested, scrubby slope.

A granite stone points me in the right direction - at least it should do but it's so worn that I can't make out any of the lettering anymore. The path rises and falls gently over valleys set back from the cliffs on the route to Trewellard Zawn.

Stretched out in front of me is Cornwall's tin mining country.

Just inland can be seen the buildings of Geevor Tin Mine (@geevormuseum), the last working tin mine in the area and only closed in 1990. Today Geevor Tin Mine is a museum and heritage centre, covering an area of 67 acres.

The landscape ahead is littered with ruined buildings, chimneys and engine houses of the tin mines that long ago were abandoned.

I continue through this wasteland to reach Levant Beam Engine, a restored steam powered Cornish beam engine. Levant Mine was established in 1820 and closed in 1930 and was mined for tin and copper.

Levant Mine has been owned by the National Trust since 1967. Two closely situated engine houses can be found here. The larger, roofless engine house was built in 1835 whereas the smaller, restored engine house dates from 1840.

Littered in the vicinity of the engine houses are the remains of the compressor house and the tiled floor of the count house.

I continue on a track passing more chimneys and engine houses and pass the buildings of Old Crowns Mine perched precariously on the cliffs at Botallack, consisting of the pumping house built in 1835 and the higher winding house built in 1862.

“Chains, pipes, conduits, protruded in all directions from the precipice; rotten-looking wooden platforms, running over deep chasms, supported great beams of timber and heavy coils of cable; crazy little boarded houses were built, where gulls’ nests might have been found in other places.”

— Rambles Beyond Railways, Wilkie Collins

The mine here closed in 1895 before being briefly opened again before the First World War.

Arsenic was a by product of the tin mining process and you can find the remains of the arsenic refining works here.

More walking through tin mining country takes me to Kenidjack, passing West Wheal Owles and Wheal Edward on the way.

At West Wheal Owles, a serious accident occurred in 1893 killing nineteen men and a boy and the mine subsequently closed. A memorial stone recording the names of the victims is close by.

I follow the path high above the cliffs at Porth Ledden before heading towards the hump of Cape Cornwall, once thought to be the most westerly point of Cornwall. Fortunately that is now reserved for Land's End otherwise here would have become a stinky theme park.

A footpath here is closed due to breeding choughs. The baby choughs have fledged but I don't see any.

The path heads inland down a steep valley away from Cape Cornwall before heading back towards the cape on the other side of the valley. Along the way I pass some friendly donkeys.

The wild flowers on the valley sides are looking lovely.

Cape Cornwall Mine, a tin mine, operated intermittently between 1838 and 1883. The mine's 1864 chimney near the peak of the cape was retained as an aid to navigation and stands out on the cape to this day.

I climb onto Cape Cornwall and enjoy the views ahead to Land's End. It's very windy up here.

Cape Cornwall was purchased for the nation by H J Heinz Co Ltd to mark their centenary year and presented to the National Trust on March 25th 1987.

I climb back down Cape Cornwall and shelter in Priest's Cove. Priest's Cove, tucked in to the bottom of Cape Cornwall, is still a working fishery and small fishermen's huts have been built in to the rock for mending nets and storing crab and lobster pots.

An easy path climbs steeply away from Cape Cornwall before levelling out and briefly heads inland before heading back towards the coast at Porth Nanven. A sign here warns of sharp metal left over from the wrecked submarine L1.

Another sign warns me of nesting choughs but I fail to see any again.

I pass mine shafts and cross footbridges to reach a National Trust sign at Nanjulian where the path becomes rugged. I clamber around the rocky Aire Point and have lovely views over Whitesand Bay.

There are planes in the sky everywhere, presumably taking off and landing at Land's End Aerodrome.

I ignore the coast path signs and clamber over rocks to reach the beautiful beach at Gwynver Beach, with its soft, fine sand.

If the tide is out you can walk directly into Sennen Cove but it's in too far today so I climb out of Gwynver Beach and climb down onto Sennen Cove, ignoring the coast path signs again. I trudge along the sandy beach. Life doesn't get much better than this!

At the far end of the beach is the village of Sennen Cove and walking through the village I pass Old Success Inn (@oldsuccessinn), The Old Boathouse village shop (@theOldBoathous1) and at the far end of the beach the lifeboat station.

There is a tiny fishing harbour here and a tractor is making an awful lot of noise.

I pause for a while in the village knowing that Land's End is just around the corner and then leave the village via the car park at the harbour end of the village, climbing up a flight of steps and then follow a path to a clifftop lookout. This is Pedn-men-du and there are fantastic views over to Longships Lighthouse.

The views back over Sennen Cove are lovely but I can't linger any longer.

I leave Sennen Cove behind me and walk past the iron age Maen Cliff Castle and suddenly there are people everywhere. I cross a fiddly area to reach Land's End. Have I mentioned, by any chance, that I dislike Land's End.

I don't hang about and quickly pass Greeb Farm and leave the crowds of Land's End behind me and the walking quickly becomes pleasant again. I pass the Armed Knight, an impressive rock feature and arch stuck out in the Atlantic and walk around Pordenack Point to reach Mill Bay, otherwise known as Nanjizal Bay. The colours of the sea around here are amazing shades of blue, turquoise and green, completely different to the grubby brown sea of home.

The beach here is always delightful and because there is no direct access by road, is usually deserted. Today is unusually busy. Rock pools, arches and caves abound but unfortunately the tide is too far in to expose the sandy beach.

I climb slopes to reach the point at Carn Les Boel which is home to an iron age promontory fort. There are people everywhere which is very unusual as I usually find the place deserted. The rocky cliffs are covered in sea thrift.

I walk along the cliff tops to reach the National Coastwatch Station at Gwennap Head and then pass some daymarks to reach the beach at Porthgwarra.

Porthgwarra is an old fishing hamlet and there are still a few boats which launch from here and there is a small shop and cafe.

I walk through the tunnel here to explore the beach and then leave Porthgwarra via a track at the end of the road and walk along the top of the cliffs before steeply descending. I should pass St Levan's holy well but the coast path has been diverted.

On the slopes above Porth Chapel I hear a cuckoo calling.

It's a steep climb down to the beach at Porth Chapel, too much for these weary legs. The sandy beach here is lovely and usually completely deserted. Not today!

I walk around the headland of Pedn-men-an-mere. From here it is a short walk to my destination for the day, Porthcurno.

I pass behind the Minack Theatre (@minacktheatre), an open air theatre cut into the rock with shows taking place throughout the summer. There's a show on today so the theatre is closed except to audience members.

I climb steeply down steps in the cliff to reach the lovely beach at Porthcurno. After enjoying the beach for a while I walk up the beach and pass Cable Hut, part of the Porthcurno Telegraph Museum (@ThePTM) just behind the beach.

I reach the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

rabbits
horses
chaffinches
great tits
chiff chaffs
buzzards being mobbed
painted lady butterflies
a crab
a cuckoo
donkeys

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 17.1 miles today which amounts to 40133 steps. It has been magnificent walking in glorious weather for a third day on the trot and I was even getting sweaty! Ten out of ten!