porthcurno to penzance

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

WEDNESDAY, 10TH JUNE 2015

I'm set for another day of beautiful weather with sun all day long and no sign of rain. Can't believe this is now four walking days on the trot with decent weather after some of the rubbish we've had this year!

Penzance high tide 11:35

Penzance low tide 18:15

I start the day back at the car park behind the beach at Porthcurno. I briefly explore the beach before heading back past the Cable Hut, part of Porthcurno Telegraph Museum, to pick up the coast path out of Porthcurno.

porthcurno

I set off on a bushy path towards Treryn Dinas and Logan Rock with outstanding views back to Porthcurno and on to Penzance, hidden in the distance. There are foxgloves everywhere.

foxgloves

People have occupied the rocky promontory of Treryn Dinas since prehistoric times and the ramparts and ditches of an iron age promontory fort can be seen today, defending the landward side of the headland.

At the end of the headland is Logan Rock or rocking stone. 80 tons in weight, the stone was dislodged in 1824 by a group of "high-spirited" (i.e. drunk!) British seamen. The stone was restored with the help of 60 men using 13 capstans with blocks and chains at a cost of £130 8s 6d.

treryn dinas

I follow a rugged path around Cribba Head and descend to Penberth Cove. Penberth Cove was once home to a pilchard fishing industry and a slabbed area here was used for landing fish. A handful of local fishermen still make their living from fishing for mackeral, lobster and crab and there are boats, nets and lobster pots dotted around.

The coast path continues seawards of a cottage by the sea and climbs up a rugged slope away from the village. I round Le Scathe Cove and pass The Gazzels and descend down to the stream at Porthguarnon Cove.

porthguarnon cove

The path ascends steeply again above Trevedran Cliff. I walk through woods behind a large house and round Merthen Point back a bit from the edge of the cliff towards St Loy. I leave St Loy over the bouldery beach. In the distance I think I can make out the Scillonian III  heading for the Isles of Scilly.

bouldery beach at st loy's cove

I pass high above St Loy's Cove and Paynter's Cove and walk over Boscawen Cliff high above Chough Zawn and Zawn Gamper. I pass by the lighthouse on Tater-du and over Rosemodress Cliff before descending to the bottom of Tregurnow Cliff.

tater du lighthouse

The wildflowers around here are looking amazing and the foxgloves are in even greater density than I came across earlier on today. There's even some hawthorn still in flower.

foxgloves

I pass by the Derek and Jeannie Tangye Minack Chronicles Nature Reserve. It's a shame I don't have more time to explore. Derek Tangye was the author of a number of popular books about Cornwall.

I then follow a rocky path to reach Lamorna Cove. The rocks make the going very tricky to negotiate and I'm not the only one struggling to make progress. Unfortunately the tide is in so there's no sandy beach to explore. A little inland can be found The Lamorna Wink.

lamorna cove

I leave Lamorna Cove by climbing the cliff through an old quarry and head around Carn-du and pass Kemyel Point.

looking back to lamorna cove

The coast path goes through Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve, a woodland dominated by Monterey pine trees.

kemyel crease nature reserve

The path rises to Penzer Point and at Point Spaniard, joins the road before heading down Raginnis Hill towards Mousehole. I wander randomly along the narrow streets here to reach the harbour.

I wander around the harbour and follow the road signposted for Newlyn and Penzance, passing The Ship Inn and The Old Coastguard Hotel (@leroundhouse).

On the road to Newlyn there are fine views over to St Michael's Mount and Marazion.

I pass the old Penlee Lifeboat Station. There aren't any lifeboats stationed here anymore but the station is still maintained and a small memorial garden has been created to remember the 8 crew of the Solomon Browne who lost their lives on the 19th of December 1981.

the old penlee lifeboat station

The new Penlee Lifeboat Station (@penleelifeboat) was moved to Newlyn in 1983 and I'll pass it shortly.

I pass japanese knotweed control zones which look more like 'out of control' zones. The coast path ducks down below the road for a bit and I come across masses of wild flowers.

I also encounter painted lady butterflies and I finally manage to capture one on camera.

painted lady

painted lady

The concrete walls here are covered in graffiti.

The coast path re-joins the road as I enter Newlyn. In Newlyn I pass the Fishermans Arms Inn, the Red Lion Inn, the Star Inn and the Swordfish Inn.

I walk along the harbour passing the aforementioned lifeboat station.

new penlee lifeboat station

The place stinks of fish! Not surprising since this is the home of Newlyn Fish Market.

newlyn

I cross the bridge over the river next to the Seaman's Mission, pass The Tolcarne Inn and then walk next to the Bolitho Gardens. 

I walk along the promenade just above the shingly beach towards Penzance and pass the Jubilee Pool which is still not open after the winter storms of 2014. There are plans to refurbish it but it looks to be in a worse state than when I passed it a year ago.

jubilee pool

At the harbour I pass The Dolphin Tavern (@dolphinpz), The Dock Inn and the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre (@IOSTRAVEL). I walk over the swingbridge next to the dry dock and reach my destination for the day, the car park at Penzance. That's my walking done for the week. I'll be back in Cornwall in early September.

penzance

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • flag irises
  • gunnera
  • red admirals
  • fuchsias
  • horse chestnuts
  • monterey pine trees
  • buzzards
  • herb robert
  • gladioli
  • echiums
  • painted lady butterflies
  • orange tip butterflies
  • caper spurge
  • japanese knotweed
  • chaffinches
  • red campion
  • bracken
  • gorse
  • speckled wood butterflies
  • ox-eye daises
  • foxgloves
  • bladder campion

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available.  You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.8 miles today which amounts to 29454 steps. It has been magnificent walking in glorious weather for a fourth day on the trot. Nine out of ten!

mousehole harbour

painted lady