pendeen watch to porthcurno

September 14, 2020 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 8TH SEPTEMBER 2020

It looks like I have another decent weather forecast for the day. It should be warm, dry and with little in the way of wind.

Cape Cornwall high tide 08:39

Cape Cornwall low tide 15:10

I start today's walk at the car park above Pendeen Watch lighthouse. One of my favourite walks today despite the fact that it goes through the stinky dump that is Land's End!

I've learnt from previous walks to head up the road a bit rather than start walking straightaway on what looks like the coast path but soon peters out on a gorse infested, scrubby slope.

A granite stone points me in the right direction - at least it should do but it's so worn that I can't make out any of the lettering anymore. The path rises and falls gently over valleys set back from the cliffs on the route to Trewellard Zawn.

Stretched out in front of me is Cornwall's tin mining country.

Just inland can be seen the buildings of Geevor Tin Mine (@geevormuseum), the last working tin mine in the area and only closed in 1990. Today Geevor Tin Mine is a museum and heritage centre, covering an area of 67 acres.

The landscape ahead is littered with ruined buildings, chimneys and engine houses of the tin mines that long ago were abandoned.

I continue through this wasteland to reach Levant Beam Engine, a restored steam powered Cornish beam engine. Levant Mine was established in 1820 and closed in 1930 and was mined for tin and copper.

Levant Mine has been owned by the National Trust since 1967. Two closely situated engine houses can be found here. The larger, roofless engine house was built in 1835 whereas the smaller, restored engine house dates from 1840.

Littered in the vicinity of the engine houses are the remains of the compressor house and the tiled floor of the count house.

A friendly collie dog comes up to me so we have a little game of fetch the stone.

I come across stonechats calling just how their name suggests, just like two small stones being hit together.

I continue on a track passing more chimneys and engine houses and pass the buildings of Old Crowns Mine perched precariously on the cliffs at Botallack, consisting of the pumping house built in 1835 and the higher winding house built in 1862.

“Chains, pipes, conduits, protruded in all directions from the precipice; rotten-looking wooden platforms, running over deep chasms, supported great beams of timber and heavy coils of cable; crazy little boarded houses were built, where gulls’ nests might have been found in other places.”

— Rambles Beyond Railways, Wilkie Collins

The mine here closed in 1895 before being briefly opened again before the First World War.

Arsenic was a by product of the tin mining process and you can find the remains of the arsenic refining works here.

More walking through tin mining country takes me to Kenidjack, passing West Wheal Owles and Wheal Edward on the way.

At West Wheal Owles, a serious accident occurred in 1893 killing nineteen men and a boy and the mine subsequently closed. A memorial stone recording the names of the victims should be close by but I can never find it.

“10th January 1893
wheal owles mine disaster

Thomas Allen
John Olds (Bosanko)
Lewis Blewett Wilkins
William Roberts
Peter Dale
James Rowe
William Davey
William Stevens Thomas
William Eddy
John Taylor
James Edwards Trembath
Mark Taylor
Thomas Ellis
James Thomas
John Grose
Edward White
Thomas Grose
Edward Williams
Charles Hitches Thomas
James Williams”

I follow the path high above the cliffs at Porth Ledden before heading towards the hump of Cape Cornwall, once thought to be the most westerly point of Cornwall. Fortunately that is now reserved for Land's End otherwise here would have become a stinky theme park.

The path heads inland down steep Kenidjack Valley away from Cape Cornwall before heading back towards the cape on the other side of the valley. Along the way I pass some friendly donkeys.

The wild flowers on the valley sides are looking lovely.

Cape Cornwall Mine, a tin mine, operated intermittently between 1838 and 1883. The mine's 1864 chimney near the peak of the cape was retained as an aid to navigation and stands out on the cape to this day.

Cape Cornwall was purchased for the nation by H J Heinz Co Ltd to mark their centenary year and presented to the National Trust on March 25th 1987.

I amble down the access road at Cape Cornwall and wander down the slipway at Priest's Cove. Priest's Cove, tucked in to the bottom of Cape Cornwall, is still a working fishery and small fishermen's huts have been built in to the rock for mending nets and storing crab and lobster pots.

An easy path climbs steeply away from Cape Cornwall before levelling out at Carn Gloose where I come across trig point s8141.

I head inland down and then back up Cot Valley which used to be a centre for mining and tin processing before heading back towards the coast at Porth Nanven.

At Letcha I come across long horned cattle.

I pass mine shafts and cross footbridges to reach a National Trust sign at Nanjulian. Three choughs fly over me. CHOUGHS!! What a top bird.

The path becomes rugged and I clamber around the rocky Aire Point and have lovely views over Whitesand Bay.

There are usually planes in the sky everywhere, presumably taking off and landing at Land's End Aerodrome but I only see a couple today.

I ignore the coast path signs and clamber over rocks to reach the beautiful beach at Gwynver Beach, with its soft, fine sand.

I usually have Gwynver Beach to myself but, although it’s not heaving, there are a few people on the beach today and there’s a lifeguard service.

If the tide is out you can walk directly into Sennen Cove but it's in too far today so I climb out of Gwynver Beach and climb down onto Sennen Cove, ignoring the coast path signs again. I trudge along the sandy beach. Life doesn't get much better than this! Except that it’s uncomfortably busy particularly towards the village side of the beach.

At the far end of the beach is the village of Sennen Cove and walking through the village I pass Old Success Inn (@oldsuccessinn), The Old Boathouse village shop (@theOldBoathous1) and at the far end of the beach the lifeboat station.

There is a tiny fishing harbour here, next to the lifeboat station.

I pause for a while in the village knowing that Land's End is just around the corner and then leave the village via the car park at the harbour end of the village, climbing up a flight of steps up Mayon Cliff and then follow a path to a clifftop lookout. This is Pedn-men-du and there are fantastic views over to Longships Lighthouse. There are an awful lot of people about.

The views back over Sennen Cove are lovely but I can't linger any longer.

I leave Sennen Cove behind me and walk past the iron age Maen Cliff Castle. I cross a fiddly area to reach stinky Land's End. Have I mentioned, by any chance, that I dislike Land's End?

I walk around Pordenack Point to reach Mill Bay, otherwise known as Nanjizal Bay. The colours of the sea around here are amazing shades of blue, turquoise and green, completely different to the grubby brown sea of home.

The beach here is always delightful and because there is no direct access by road, is usually deserted. Today is unusually busy. Rock pools, arches and caves abound but there’s too many people about for my liking.

In 1966, the Doctor Who episode "The Smuggler's" was filmed on the beach.

I climb slopes to reach the point at Carn Les Boel which is home to an iron age promontory fort. There are people everywhere which is very unusual as I usually find the place deserted. I come across more choughs and it’s lovely to hear them cawing away.

I come across a friendly herd of cows blocking the coast path.

I walk along the cliff tops to reach the National Coastwatch Station at Gwennap Head and then pass some daymarks to reach the beach at Porthgwarra.

Porthgwarra is an old fishing hamlet and there are still a few boats which launch from here and there is a small shop and cafe.

I leave Porthgwarra via a track at the end of the road and walk along the top of the cliffs before steeply descending. I pass St Levan's holy well.

It's a steep climb down to the beach at Porth Chapel, too much for these weary legs. The sandy beach here is lovely and usually completely deserted, but there’s a few people down there today.

I walk around the headland of Pedn-men-an-mere. From here it is a short walk to my destination for the day, Porthcurno.

I pass behind the Minack Theatre (@minacktheatre), an open air theatre cut into the rock with shows taking place throughout the summer. The theatre is back open again albeit with restricted visitor numbers.

I climb steeply down steps in the cliff to reach a path with a view of the lovely beach at Porthcurno. It is very busy down there so I’ll have to avoid the beach.

I continue along the coast path and reach the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

rabbits
himalayan balsam
stonechats
goldfinches
long horned cattle
choughs
wheatears
peregrine
buzzards
red valerian
crocosmia
bladder campion
knapweed
gorse
heather
herb robert
blackberries
ribwort plantain
yarrow
honeysuckle
cows

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 17.4 miles today which amounts to 40870 steps. It has been magnificent walking in glorious weather for a third day on the trot but after yesterday’s pounding it’s a weary person heading back to our holiday apartment. Despite stinky Land’s End, ten out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

I’ve given up on using my Ordnance Survey app for showing elevation details as it is clearly incorrect. Instead I’ve started using the myTracks app which does a much better job even if it’s not entirely correct.

map

beachcombing - part 1

October 04, 2018 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

monday 24th - wednesday 26th september 2018

We’re staying in a cottage situated between Helston and Porthleven this week. I’m having a week off from walking so instead I’ll be beachcombing the various beaches around here and I’m spoilt for choice. I could visit :-

porthcurno
lamorna cove
mousehole
penzance
marazion
perran sands
praa sands
porthleven
loe bar
gunwalloe fishing cove
church cove
poldhu cove
polurrian cove
mullion cove
kynance cove
and maybe the Falmouth beaches at :-
maenporth
swanpool
gyllyngvase

Not sure how many I’ll get to so we’ll have to see.

porthcurno - 24th september 2018

We travelled down to Cornwall in filthy weather on Saturday. The weather forecast for Sunday was also filthy but it turned out to be quite a nice day and the weather this morning is glorious.

Porthcurno is one of my favourite beaches on the south west coast path. There’s a large film crew camped in Porthcurno as we arrive - presumably filming Poldark - but they don’t appear to be doing very much so the beach is very quiet.

praa sands - 24th september 2018

The last time I passed through Praa Sands the sand had been washed away by winter storms but normal order has been restored.

poldhu - 25th september 2018

It is another beautiful morning and there are already quite a few people enjoying the beach at Poldhu.

church cove - 25th september 2018

It is a short walk around from Poldhu to Church Cove.

penzance - 26th september 2018

It is another beautiful morning and there’s not a cloud in the sky. I start the day at Newlyn before making my way across the beach at Penzance and then I amble across Marazion Beach.

marazion - 26th september 2018

PODCAST

The podcast of this beachcombing is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

porthcurno to penzance

June 14, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

WEDNESDAY, 10TH JUNE 2015

I'm set for another day of beautiful weather with sun all day long and no sign of rain. Can't believe this is now four walking days on the trot with decent weather after some of the rubbish we've had this year!

Penzance high tide 11:35

Penzance low tide 18:15

I start the day back at the car park behind the beach at Porthcurno. I briefly explore the beach before heading back past the Cable Hut, part of Porthcurno Telegraph Museum, to pick up the coast path out of Porthcurno.

I set off on a bushy path towards Treryn Dinas and Logan Rock with outstanding views back to Porthcurno and on to Penzance, hidden in the distance. There are foxgloves everywhere.

People have occupied the rocky promontory of Treryn Dinas since prehistoric times and the ramparts and ditches of an iron age promontory fort can be seen today, defending the landward side of the headland.

At the end of the headland is Logan Rock or rocking stone. 80 tons in weight, the stone was dislodged in 1824 by a group of "high-spirited" (i.e. drunk!) British seamen. The stone was restored with the help of 60 men using 13 capstans with blocks and chains at a cost of £130 8s 6d.

I follow a rugged path around Cribba Head and descend to Penberth Cove. Penberth Cove was once home to a pilchard fishing industry and a slabbed area here was used for landing fish. A handful of local fishermen still make their living from fishing for mackeral, lobster and crab and there are boats, nets and lobster pots dotted around.

The coast path continues seawards of a cottage by the sea and climbs up a rugged slope away from the village. I round Le Scathe Cove and pass The Gazzels and descend down to the stream at Porthguarnon Cove.

The path ascends steeply again above Trevedran Cliff. I walk through woods behind a large house and round Merthen Point back a bit from the edge of the cliff towards St Loy. I leave St Loy over the bouldery beach. In the distance I think I can make out the Scillonian III heading for the Isles of Scilly.

I pass high above St Loy's Cove and Paynter's Cove and walk over Boscawen Cliff high above Chough Zawn and Zawn Gamper. I pass by the lighthouse on Tater-du and over Rosemodress Cliff before descending to the bottom of Tregurnow Cliff.

The wildflowers around here are looking amazing and the foxgloves are in even greater density than I came across earlier on today. There's even some hawthorn still in flower.

I pass by the Derek and Jeannie Tangye Minack Chronicles Nature Reserve. It's a shame I don't have more time to explore. Derek Tangye was the author of a number of popular books about Cornwall.

I then follow a rocky path to reach Lamorna Cove. The rocks make the going very tricky to negotiate and I'm not the only one struggling to make progress. Unfortunately the tide is in so there's no sandy beach to explore. A little inland can be found The Lamorna Wink.

I leave Lamorna Cove by climbing the cliff through an old quarry and head around Carn-du and pass Kemyel Point.

The coast path goes through Kemyel Crease Nature Reserve, a woodland dominated by Monterey pine trees.

The path rises to Penzer Point and at Point Spaniard, joins the road before heading down Raginnis Hill towards Mousehole. I wander randomly along the narrow streets here to reach the harbour.

I wander around the harbour and follow the road signposted for Newlyn and Penzance, passing The Ship Inn and The Old Coastguard Hotel (@leroundhouse).

On the road to Newlyn there are fine views over to St Michael's Mount and Marazion.

I pass the old Penlee Lifeboat Station. There aren't any lifeboats stationed here anymore but the station is still maintained and a small memorial garden has been created to remember the 8 crew of the Solomon Browne who lost their lives on the 19th of December 1981.

The new Penlee Lifeboat Station (@penleelifeboat) was moved to Newlyn in 1983 and I'll pass it shortly.

I pass japanese knotweed control zones which look more like 'out of control' zones. The coast path ducks down below the road for a bit and I come across masses of wild flowers.

I also encounter painted lady butterflies and I finally manage to capture one on camera.

The concrete walls here are covered in graffiti.

The coast path re-joins the road as I enter Newlyn. In Newlyn I pass the Fishermans Arms Inn, the Red Lion Inn, the Star Inn and the Swordfish Inn.

I walk along the harbour passing the aforementioned lifeboat station.

The place stinks of fish! Not surprising since this is the home of Newlyn Fish Market.

I cross the bridge over the river next to the Seaman's Mission, pass The Tolcarne Inn and then walk next to the Bolitho Gardens.

I walk along the promenade just above the shingly beach towards Penzance and pass the Jubilee Pool which is still not open after the winter storms of 2014. There are plans to refurbish it but it looks to be in a worse state than when I passed it a year ago.

At the harbour I pass The Dolphin Tavern (@dolphinpz), The Dock Inn and the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre (@IOSTRAVEL). I walk over the swingbridge next to the dry dock and reach my destination for the day, the car park at Penzance. That's my walking done for the week. I'll be back in Cornwall in early September.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

flag irises
gunnera
red admirals
fuchsias
horse chestnuts
monterey pine trees
buzzards
herb robert
gladioli
echiums
painted lady butterflies
orange tip butterflies
caper spurge
japanese knotweed
chaffinches
red campion
bracken
gorse
speckled wood butterflies
ox-eye daises
foxgloves
bladder campion

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.8 miles today which amounts to 29454 steps. It has been magnificent walking in glorious weather for a fourth day on the trot. Nine out of ten!

pendeen watch to porthcurno

June 11, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

TUESDAY, 9TH JUNE 2015

I have another decent weather forecast today. This is becoming repetitive! It looks like I'll have sun all day long and although the temperature won't be breaking any records again, at least it will be warm and there's no chance of rain.

St Ives high tide 10:54

St Ives low tide 17:05

I start today's walk at the car park above Pendeen Watch lighthouse. One of my favourite walks today despite the fact that it goes through the stinky dump that is Land's End!

I've learnt from previous walks to head up the road a bit rather than start walking straightaway on what looks like the coast path but soon peters out on a gorse infested, scrubby slope.

Stretched out in front of me is Cornwall's tin mining country.

The landscape ahead is littered with ruined buildings, chimneys and engine houses of the tin mines that long ago were abandoned.

I continue through this wasteland to reach Levant Beam Engine, a restored steam powered Cornish beam engine. Levant Mine was established in 1820 and closed in 1930 and was mined for tin and copper.

Littered in the vicinity of the engine houses are the remains of the compressor house and the tiled floor of the count house.

“Chains, pipes, conduits, protruded in all directions from the precipice; rotten-looking wooden platforms, running over deep chasms, supported great beams of timber and heavy coils of cable; crazy little boarded houses were built, where gulls’ nests might have been found in other places.”

— Rambles Beyond Railways, Wilkie Collins

The mine here closed in 1895 before being briefly opened again before the First World War.

Arsenic was a by product of the tin mining process and you can find the remains of the arsenic refining works here.

More walking through tin mining country takes me to Kenidjack, passing West Wheal Owles and Wheal Edward on the way.

At West Wheal Owles, a serious accident occurred in 1893 killing nineteen men and a boy and the mine subsequently closed. A memorial stone recording the names of the victims is close by.

A footpath here is closed due to breeding choughs. The baby choughs have fledged but I don't see any.

The path heads inland down a steep valley away from Cape Cornwall before heading back towards the cape on the other side of the valley. Along the way I pass some friendly donkeys.

The wild flowers on the valley sides are looking lovely.

I climb onto Cape Cornwall and enjoy the views ahead to Land's End. It's very windy up here.

Cape Cornwall was purchased for the nation by H J Heinz Co Ltd to mark their centenary year and presented to the National Trust on March 25th 1987.

I climb back down Cape Cornwall and shelter in Priest's Cove. Priest's Cove, tucked in to the bottom of Cape Cornwall, is still a working fishery and small fishermen's huts have been built in to the rock for mending nets and storing crab and lobster pots.

An easy path climbs steeply away from Cape Cornwall before levelling out and briefly heads inland before heading back towards the coast at Porth Nanven. A sign here warns of sharp metal left over from the wrecked submarine L1.

Another sign warns me of nesting choughs but I fail to see any again.

I pass mine shafts and cross footbridges to reach a National Trust sign at Nanjulian where the path becomes rugged. I clamber around the rocky Aire Point and have lovely views over Whitesand Bay.

There are planes in the sky everywhere, presumably taking off and landing at Land's End Aerodrome.

I ignore the coast path signs and clamber over rocks to reach the beautiful beach at Gwynver Beach, with its soft, fine sand.

There is a tiny fishing harbour here and a tractor is making an awful lot of noise.

I pause for a while in the village knowing that Land's End is just around the corner and then leave the village via the car park at the harbour end of the village, climbing up a flight of steps and then follow a path to a clifftop lookout. This is Pedn-men-du and there are fantastic views over to Longships Lighthouse.

The views back over Sennen Cove are lovely but I can't linger any longer.

I leave Sennen Cove behind me and walk past the iron age Maen Cliff Castle and suddenly there are people everywhere. I cross a fiddly area to reach Land's End. Have I mentioned, by any chance, that I dislike Land's End.

I don't hang about and quickly pass Greeb Farm and leave the crowds of Land's End behind me and the walking quickly becomes pleasant again. I pass the Armed Knight, an impressive rock feature and arch stuck out in the Atlantic and walk around Pordenack Point to reach Mill Bay, otherwise known as Nanjizal Bay. The colours of the sea around here are amazing shades of blue, turquoise and green, completely different to the grubby brown sea of home.

The beach here is always delightful and because there is no direct access by road, is usually deserted. Today is unusually busy. Rock pools, arches and caves abound but unfortunately the tide is too far in to expose the sandy beach.

I walk along the cliff tops to reach the National Coastwatch Station at Gwennap Head and then pass some daymarks to reach the beach at Porthgwarra.

Porthgwarra is an old fishing hamlet and there are still a few boats which launch from here and there is a small shop and cafe.

I walk through the tunnel here to explore the beach and then leave Porthgwarra via a track at the end of the road and walk along the top of the cliffs before steeply descending. I should pass St Levan's holy well but the coast path has been diverted.

On the slopes above Porth Chapel I hear a cuckoo calling.

It's a steep climb down to the beach at Porth Chapel, too much for these weary legs. The sandy beach here is lovely and usually completely deserted. Not today!

I walk around the headland of Pedn-men-an-mere. From here it is a short walk to my destination for the day, Porthcurno.

I pass behind the Minack Theatre (@minacktheatre), an open air theatre cut into the rock with shows taking place throughout the summer. There's a show on today so the theatre is closed except to audience members.

I climb steeply down steps in the cliff to reach the lovely beach at Porthcurno. After enjoying the beach for a while I walk up the beach and pass Cable Hut, part of the Porthcurno Telegraph Museum (@ThePTM) just behind the beach.

I reach the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

rabbits
horses
chaffinches
great tits
chiff chaffs
buzzards being mobbed
painted lady butterflies
a crab
a cuckoo
donkeys

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 17.1 miles today which amounts to 40133 steps. It has been magnificent walking in glorious weather for a third day on the trot and I was even getting sweaty! Ten out of ten!