porthcothan to newquay

September 08, 2018 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 2nd september 2018

The weather forecast for the day hasn't looked very good for a few days now but suddenly overnight it has improved. It might not be very warm but it looks like I might escape rain.

Newquay high tide 10:02

Newquay low tide 16:26

I start the day back on the beach at Porthcothan. Unfortunately, it's going to be another day of walking along fine, sandy beaches!

I wander around the empty beach before heading back towards Portchcothan Bay Stores and take the path between houses and the low cliff edge.

I wander round the headland and admire the views out over the stacks that make up Trescore Islands.

I come across Porth Mear, a shingly and stoney beach in stark contrast to the usual golden, sandy beaches around here and it's full of rockpools waiting to be explored.

At Porth Mear I cross a footbridge and then pass a series of crumbling headlands and coves.

At Pentire Steps I should drop down to the lovely, golden sandy beach but the tide is in so I don't think there will be any beach down there.

The tide is too far in for me to even consider walking along the beaches so I follow the path over the cliffs to Bedruthan Steps.

After a murky start the sun is starting to come out and the day is warming up.

There are an awful lot of steps down to the beach here and the tide is in so it's a long way down for very little beach. Instead, I continue along the cliffs admiring the rugged slate outcrops from above. First up is Diggory's Island, then Queen Bess Rock, Samaritan Island, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island and Carnewas Island. The stacks were put here by a giant called Bedruthan and used as stepping stones. Or they could have been formed by natural wave erosion!

I climb steps up the cliff where a National Trust information centre and cafe can be found.

Carnewas was a hive of industrial activity in the 19th century although not much is known of the mining that took place there. It is supposed that miners tunnelled into the cliffs from the beach in search of iron, copper and lead. Mining stopped many years ago, but the buildings are a reminder of this industry. The National Trust shop was once the count house or mine office and the café was also converted from mine buildings.

Carnewas at Bedruthan has been recognised as a Dark Skies Discovery Site and has gained a Milky Way Plus Events class, meaning that the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye.

I head off around Trenance Point and then drop down to the beach at Mawgan Porth, which, once again, is golden and sandy. I walk along the beach before heading back towards the village and the road which takes me out of Mawgan Porth.

Besides the beach here can be found the Merrymoor Inn (@Merrymoor), which once again has fantastic views for thirsty walkers.

The coast path continues around Berryl's Point and around Beacon Cove which you can get to but only by negotiating a rough, steep track. I continue around Griffin's Point where an Iron Age fort can be found.

I now have lovely views over Watergate Bay but I'm not spying much beach down there. The path gets closer and closer to the coast road before joining the B3276 briefly, next to the Watergate Bay Hotel (@WatergateBay).

I pass the hotel and head on to the beach, which once again is a fine, golden sandy beach, two miles long at low tide. Unfortunately it's not low tide. The beach is heaving with people and there are a lot of surfers enjoying the surf.

I retrace my steps and head through the car park where I come across Jamie Oliver's Fifteen (@fifteencornwall) restaurant.

I continue along the coast path over the cliffs. I pass Horse Rock, Sweden Rock and then Zacry's Island, where Watergate Beach at low tide leads directly onto Whipsiderry Beach, which gets its name from mining terms 'Whips' and 'Derrick'.

I head around Trevelgue Head, site of an Iron Age promontory fort. A footbridge can take you out on to the head itself, if you so wish.

The coast path then swings back on itself to join the road leading down to Porth Beach, where I have to endure more of that pesky fine, golden sand. I head towards the Mermaid Inn and then head out across the beach.

I'm now really in the suburbs of stinky Newquay and I head out of Porth Beach and back on to the tops of the cliffs. It is properly warm now which I wasn't expecting. I pass over Lusty Glaze Beach. It is a 200 feet drop down to the beach and so is quite a hike.

The tide is in too far for me to walk across the beach to Tolcarne Beach so I continue on a grassy track which joins Cliff Road and heads all the way in to Newquay.

I'd normally head down to Tolcarne Beach by following an access road and so avoid much of Newquay. Unfortunately the tide is in too far for me to do that so I head instead across the top of the beach.

I head above Great Western Beach and then follow a tram track which takes me to Towan Beach. From here I follow a fiddly path which takes me through the far end of stinky Newquay and to the car park next to the Atlantic Hotel where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
roses
crocosmia
hemp agrimony
toadflax
a painted lady butterfly
dunnocks
knapweed
honeysuckle
stonechats
small copper butterflies
watermint

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.9 miles today which amounts to 28443 steps. Apart from the end at stinky Newquay it has been a lovely day's walking and surprisingly warm at times. Eight out of ten!

This elevation chart is far from perfect but I suspect the gps chip is giving occasional false readings.

MAP

padstow to porthcothan

September 08, 2018 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

saturday, 1st september 2018

It is an overcast start to September and I might possibly get rain today. I'll have golden, sandy beaches all day long though so I can't really complain. The weather forecast for the week looks great but it keeps changing so my normally reliable weather app seems to be a bit useless this week.

Padstow high tide 09:32

Padstow low tide 15:55

I start the new walking week at the harbour in Padstow. I grab a croissant from the Chough Bakery which is open very early.

I expect Padstow will be heaving later on but I'll be long gone by then. It's early though and there's hardly anyone about.

I wander around the harbour passing the The Old Custom House (@ochpadstow), The Harbour Inn and The Shipwrights (@theshipwrights).

I climb steadily out of Padstow at the other side of the harbour, walk through a gate and then follow grassy slopes up to the granite war memorial overlooking Daymer Bay and the Camel estuary. The war memorial always signals the end of any crowds (not that there were any) and I should just have dog walkers, runners and surfers for company for the rest of today.

Normally I'd deviate from the coast path slightly and clamber over rocks to visit St George's Cove. The tide is too far in though for me to get very far. If the tide is out you can walk from St George's Cove straight to Harbour Cove.

I reach Harbour Cove and the coast path meanders behind the beach but the sand is far too enticing so I head out across the beach instead. I have the whole beach to myself except for one dog walker. Out at the mouth of the estuary can usually be seen The Doom Bar, named after a rather tasty beer from Sharp's Brewery! It's covered in water today.

On the way to Hawker's Cove I pass wildflowers clinging on to the end of the season, including some large flowered evening primroses, ragwort, red campion, herb robert, hydrangeas, hemp agrimony, honeysuckle and water mint.

I have some final views back over Harbour Cove before I continue along the coast path.

At Hawker's Cove I come across a small group of buildings and head along a road before passing between two rows of cottages. The Padstow lifeboat was stationed here until 1967, before being relocated to Mother Ivey's Bay due to river silting. I'll pass the newer lifeboat station a bit later on today.

I have lovely views back over the Camel estuary which is looking rather nice if a little murky.

I head towards Stepper Point and walk below the coastguard station here and then pass a daymark, which served as a navigation beacon for seafarers during daylight hours.

I amble along the cliffs and pass Pepper Hole and Butter Hole and head along the grassy slopes to Gunver Head, passing Fox Hole. A sign tells me that the fields around here are full of corn buntings and skylarks but I don't see any. It's very unusual to go on a coastal walk without hearing skylarks but it's the wrong time of year.

I pass a blow-hole, Round Hole, at Roundhole Point, an 80 feet deep hole in the cliffs formed from a collapsed cave. Somehow, a man managed to fall down it recently. I now have lovely views over Trevone Bay.

I walk down towards the beach car park and then head out on to the beach and enjoy the fine sand. I head across the beach and climb up steps out of Trevone Bay.

The path continues above a rocky beach towards Harlyn Bay. At Harlyn Bay I climb down steps to reach the fine, sandy beach. The Harlyn Inn can be found handily placed next to the beach for thirsty walkers.

This beach walking is becoming a bit monotonous now, but I make my way down to the sea and walk along the beach, dodging the waves. The beach is usually covered in surfers but the surf is pretty pathetic today.

As you walk along the beach it doesn't look obvious that there's an exit off the beach at the far end, but there is one near to a stone house. There is also another exit a bit further along using a slipway.

I've only got my walking shoes on today rather than the usual boots and I don't want to risk getting them wet so I exit the beach early. I'm pretty certain the tide is too far in for me to make the other exits further down the beach.

I take one last look back over Harlyn Bay and then climb gently up onto Cataclews Point.

The coast path continues along the cliffs around Mother Ivey's Bay. I climb down onto the fine, sandy beach using a steep beach access road. It's surprisingly quiet so I do some exploration before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have views across to the lifeboat station, clinging to the bottom of the cliffs.

The path heads inland before reaching the access road to the lifeboat station. The coast path continues through fields towards Trevose Head and rounds the headland, passing behind the lighthouse here.

I cross the lighthouse access road and complete the traversal of Trevose Head by passing the tumulus on Dinas Head.

I now have magnificent views across Constantine Bay, one of my favourite places on the coast path.

I amble down the slopes to reach Booby's Bay (snigger!!). There's not much of the beach showing today so I continue on my way.

A short walk along the path takes me down on to Constantine Bay, one of the best surfing beaches in Cornwall. The surf's a bit better here so the surfers are out in numbers and should you want to join them, you can get supplies from the Constantine Bay Surf Store (@Constantinesurf) in the village behind the beach.

I continue my walk along this beautiful, sandy beach before reluctantly coming ashore at a slipway. I'd normally walk down by the sea but I've only got shoes on and there are numerous rivulets running down the beach so I keep to the upper beach.

I take one last, admiring glance back over Constantine Bay and then follow a narrow road and track towards Treyarnon Point. I round Treyarnon Point and descend down to Treyarnon Bay, yet another sandy beach, passing the youth hostel and cafe.

There can't be many more beaches like this, can there? It's rather busier here than I like but I wander down the sandy beach to the sea before retracing my steps. I climb out of the bay next to a pink ice cream caravan, home to Rosie's Ice Cream, and behind a clifftop cottage.

A grassy path rounds several headlands and coves and, dare I say it, the path almost takes on a rugged nature. Out at sea can be found the Minnows Islands.

The coast path suddenly reveals Porthcothan Bay and I climb down the scrubby slopes to reach the road and village of Porthcothan.

I wander out onto the final sandy beach of the day, and another of my favourite places. I head down to the sea and then retrace my steps.

I head through the dune system and pass the Porthcothan Bay Stores, a small store with a big heart! It was closed the last time I passed it so it's lovely to see it open again, with new owners. I head to the car park behind the beach where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

rosebay willow herb
large flowered evening primrose
red and white valerian
herb robert
red campion
ragwort
water mint
hemp agrimony
ribwort plantain
hydrangeas
buddleja
fennel
honeysuckle
field scabious
birds-foot trefoil
swallows
toadflax
a sparrowhawk
oystercatchers

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16.3 miles today which amounts to 35406 steps. This is a good 3 miles further than my book tells me it should be. It has been magnificent walking today in not the greatest weather. Nine out of ten!

This elevation chart is far from perfect but I suspect the gps chip is giving occasional false readings.

MAP

porthcothan to holywell

September 14, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

monday, 14th september 2015

The weather forecast for the day is truly atrocious. And, for once, the weather turns out to be much worse than the forecast. I had to cope with heavy rain for most of the day and the wind was blowing an almighty gale. The screenshot of my weather app below does not do the weather justice. It was comfortably the worst weather I've ever walked in which meant that I was unable to take any photos or make any recordings so today's walk will be a very short posting for record only. I did make it all the way in one piece though! Just about!!

I do have a spare day at the end of the week so I may try to walk this one again.

Newquay high tide 06:33

Newquay low tide 12:47

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.75 miles today which amounts to 40180 steps. The terrible conditions meant that I barely saw anything but it was an exhilarating ride. Nine out of ten!

padstow to porthcothan

September 13, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

saturday, 12th september 2015

The weather forecast for the day is not great. It looks like I'll be in for a dull and cold day which is pretty much par for the course this year. The weather forecast for the rest of the week looks to be much worse. Oh dear!

Padstow high tide 05:45

Padstow low tide 12:07

It's almost exactly ten years ago to the day since I first set out on the South West Coast Path. My first day of walking was on the 11th of September 2005 from Falmouth to Porthallow. This day also happened to be the fourth day of the Ashes test at the Oval which England would go on to draw to regain the Ashes for the first time in 18 years. Times have changed. This was a pre iPhone era without any GPS tracking and where the only way I could keep up with the Ashes was via intermittent text messages whenever I could get a phone signal. Anyway …..

I start a new walking week at the harbour in Padstow. Padstow is normally heaving with tourists but I'm setting off fairly early so I have the whole town practically to myself except for some dog walkers and some early morning visitors to the bakery.

This walk is one of my favourite walks. It's pretty easy walking but I'll have fine sandy beaches all the way round to Porthcothan.

I wander around the harbour passing the The Old Custom House, The Harbour Inn and The Shipwrights (@theshipwrights).

I climb out of Padstow at the other side of the harbour, walk through a gate and then follow grassy slopes up to the granite war memorial overlooking Daymer Bay and the Camel estuary. The war memorial always signals the end of any crowds and I should just have dog walkers and surfers for company for the rest of today.

I deviate from the coast path slightly and clamber over rocks to visit St George's Cove, which I've never visited before. It was definitely worth the detour and it's a fine, white sandy beach and a lovely way to start the day. I'm even starting to see some bits of blue sky.

If the tide is out you can walk from St George's Cove straight to Harbour Cove but the tide is in too far today so I climb some steps back up to the coast path. I reach Harbour Cove and the coast path meanders behind the beach but the sand is far too enticing so I head out across the beach instead. I have the whole beach to myself except for one dog walker. Out at the mouth of the estuary can be seen The Doom Bar, named after a rather tasty beer from Sharp's Brewery!

On the way to Hawker's Cove I pass wildflowers clinging on to the end of the season, including some large flowered evening primroses, hemp agrimony, honeysuckle and water mint.

I have some final views back over harbour cove where a number of gulls have congregated.

I have lovely views back over the Camel estuary and I do believe the sky is slightly bluer.

I head towards Stepper Point and walk below the coastguard station here and then pass a daymark, which served as a navigation beacon for seafarers during daylight hours. The sky is now very definitely blue but it is blowing a gale and sheltering inside the daymark didn't work.

I amble along the cliffs and pass Pepper Hole and Butter Hole and head along the grassy slopes to Gunver Head, passing Fox Hole. I pass a blow-hole, Round Hole, at Roundhole Point, an 80 feet deep hole in the cliffs formed from a collapsed cave, and have lovely views over Trevone Bay.

I walk down towards the beach car park and then head out on to the beach and enjoy the fine sand. I head across the beach and climb up steps out of Trevone Bay.

The path continues above a rocky beach towards Harlyn Bay and I come across a sign telling me that corn buntings nest here between May and September. Unfortunately I don't see any. At Harlyn Bay I climb down steps to reach the fine, sandy beach. The Harlyn Inn can be found handily placed next to the beach for thirsty walkers.

This beach walking is becoming a bit monotonous now, but I make my way down to the sea and walk along the beach, dodging the waves. There are a few surfers enjoying the surf.

As you walk along the beach it doesn't look obvious that there's an exit off the beach at the far end, but there is and I climb back onto the low cliff near to a stone house. There is also another exit a bit further along using a slipway.

I take one last look back over Harlyn Bay and its surfers and then climb gently up onto Cataclews Point.

The coast path continues along the cliffs around Mother Ivey's Bay and another sign tells me about corn buntings nesting in the area. Swallows and swifts are flying all around me. I climb down onto the fine, sandy beach using a steep beach access road. It's surprisingly quiet so I do some exploration before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have views across to the lifeboat station, clinging to the bottom of the cliffs.

The path heads inland before reaching the access road to the lifeboat station. I come across moths and bees enjoying the wild flowers here but mostly the red valerian. I've no idea what sort of moths they are and they were flitting about too quickly for me to photograph them. I also see several red admirals and a solitary small tortoiseshell butterfly.

The coast path continues through fields towards Trevose Head and rounds the headland, passing behind the lighthouse here.

I cross the lighthouse access road and complete the traversal of Trevose Head by passing the tumulus on Dinas Head.

I now have magnificent views across Constantine Bay, one of my favourite places on the coast path.

I amble down the slopes and clamber down over rocks to reach Booby's Bay (snigger!!). I explore the rock pools here and then head out onto the wide sandy beach for some paddling.

The tide has turned so I can't quite make it straight over to Constantine Bay and so have to strap my boots back on and clamber back over rocks. A short walk along the path takes me down on to Constantine Bay, one of the best surfing beaches in Cornwall. The surfers are out in numbers and should you want to join them, you can get supplies from the Constantine Bay Surf Store (@Constantinesurf) in the village behind the beach.

I continue my walk along this beautiful, sandy beach before reluctantly coming ashore at a slipway.

There can't be many more beaches like this, can there? It's rather busier here than I like but I cross the sandy beach and climb out of the bay next to a pink ice cream caravan, home to Rose's Ice Cream, and behind a clifftop cottage.

A grassy path rounds several headlands and coves and, dare I say it, the path almost takes on a rugged nature. Out at sea can be found the Minnows Islands.

The coast path suddenly reveals Porthcothan Bay and I climb down the scrubby slopes to reach the road and village of Porthcothan. I pass the village shop at the head of the beach which is closed until the Spring of 2016 due to a change in ownership. I wander out onto the final sandy beach of the day, and another of my favourite places.

The last time I was here a rock arch could be seen guarding the bay but this was destroyed in the storms of January 2014.

As per usual the place is very quiet so I enjoy one last sandy beach before heading back past the village store to find my lift in the car park behind the beach.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

swallows
turnstones
honeysuckle
hemp agrimony
water mint
red admirals
nasturtiums
crocosmia
magpies
blackberries
sloes
field scabious
rabbits
mushrooms
peregrines
(end of season) sea thrift
wheatears
cows
great tits
speckled wood butterflies
red valerian
bees and moths

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16.5 miles today which amounts to 36238 steps. This is a good 3 miles further than my book tells me it should be. It has been magnificent walking in surprisingly good and warm weather, if a bit on the windy side. Ten out of ten!