hartland quay to bude

October 02, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

saturday, 24th september 2016

Considering it's late September, the weather forecast for today looks to be pretty good. What I failed to notice though was the strength of the wind which proved to be a factor throughout the day.

For some reason my tide time app isn't showing the low tides at Bude so I have to choose Boscastle instead. The tide times won't be a lot different.

Boscastle low tide 05:38 and 18:32

Boscastle high tide 12:17

I start the day on the beach at Hartland Quay. Actually there's not much beach today as the tide is in too far. It is a wild and windy start to the day which doesn't bode well for the rest of the day. I can't stand strong winds which isn't a good trait for a coast path walker. It makes map reading impossible, it means I have to strap on my hat tightly, the straps on my bag flap about all over the place and worst of all, it makes recording anything almost impossible.

The quay here was originally built in the 16th century but swept away in 1887. I marvel at the folded rocks here but it's time to get going. I wander up the slipway, completed in 1976 by volunteers from the Hartland Boat Club. Lundy is clearly visible out to sea.

I leave the beach and head up the road to the Hartland Quay Hotel and pass the Wreckers' Retreat Bar, a traditional smugglers inn.

I climb steps uphill and head out on the blustery coast path before coming across a waterfall at Speke's Mill Mouth.

I head inland and cross a footbridge. I now have a choice of routes. I can either take the cliff top route or the valley route behind the cliffs. I choose the valley route which I hope will provide some shelter from the wind. and enjoy the late flowers and fruits of the valley.

I pass behind Brownspear Point, Longpeak, Hole Rock, Gunpath Rock, Mansley Rock and Cow Rock. I rejoin the coast path and the sea is raging. I continue along the path to reach a road junction at Sandhole Cross.

I turn right along the road and then regain the cliffs to round Nabor Point. Somebody around here is keen on transmitter masts! The footpath ahead is closed due to a landslip so I head into fields instead.

I pass Gull Rock, Coney Rock and Ramtor Rock and come across an Iron Age fort at Embury Beacon. Most of the fort has fallen into the sea but the main rampart still runs across the headland.

I continue along the path, descending to Knap Head before a steep zig zag path takes me down to Welcombe Mouth where stepping stones take me across a stream above another waterfall.

The sea is raging here but it seems to be too tame for some surfers who join me in heading towards Marsland Mouth. We pass the car park and climb steeply up a scrubby slope to find a hut overlooking Marsland Mouth where Ronald Duncan wrote his poetry and plays..

The hut fell into disrepair after Ronald died in 1982 but it was rebuilt by his daughter Briony. Rebuilt it might have been but it's not providing much shelter today.

A series of steps takes me down the steep slope to Marsland Mouth. I pop down to the beach and the sea, if anything, is raging more than the sea at Welcombe Mouth. Sure enough there are several surfers at this remote spot who are gingerly entering the sea. I'm sure the effort will be worth it if they can avoid crashing onto the rocks.

I rejoin the coast path and cross a footbridge at Marsland Water. I'm now on the border between Devon and Cornwall and a wooden sign welcomes me to Kernow.

I climb wooden steps and then climb up onto the top of Marsland Cliff. Out to sea I can see Gull Rock.

I climb steeply down more steps and then cross a footbridge over a stream. I amble across Cornakey Cliff and a grassy descent leads me to a footbridge over Westcott Wattle.

A slippery scrambling climb leads me over Henna Cliff before crossing another footbridge over a stream and I can now make out Morwenstow just inland. More steps lead me up onto Vicarage Cliff where I almost get blown off the cliff.

I should come across Hawker's Hut, a little hut made from driftwood and built by the Revered Hawker, the eccentric Victorian vicar of Morwenstow, who liked to smoke a pipe of opium here with his literary friends. I am so battened down due to the wind that I completely miss the sign for the hut.

I zig zag down a steep slope and pass a National Trust sign for Tidna Shute and cross yet another footbridge over a stream before coming across a ruined coastguard lookout station at Higher Sharpnose Point.

I try to shelter inside the station but the lack of glass means that the wind just rages all around me.

I continue along the coast path and come across sheep sheltering from the wind on the cliffs.

I amble along a grassy path before a steep zig zag descent leads me to a footbridge in the valley at Stanbury Mouth. Apparently a steep and difficult climb takes you down to the beach but I can't see a path and it looks too dangerous anyway.

I now have a steep climb up to the radar station at GCHQ Bude. It's an eery place and it feels like they are listening to me! Apparently I'm not allowed to take any photographs. WTF?! I'm on a public footpath so I can do pretty much whatever I want within reason.

I amble past the station and along the cliff path to round Steeple Point. Out at sea are Squench Rock, Pigsback Rock and Kempthorn's Rock.

A steep descent down the cliff takes me to Duckpool Beach. The beach here is rather pleasant, particularly when the tide is out. I crunch across the beach and head down to the tiny bit of grey sand exposed by the retreating tide.

I enjoy the beach here with some dog walkers. I should now head inland to cross a footbridge but instead cross back up the beach and find a path that climbs up the steep grassy slope back onto the clifftops. I walk downhill and cross a teeny footbridge at Warren Gutter.

From here it is a thoroughly lovely walk along the clifftops above Warren Little Beach, Eliza Beach and Warren Long Beach before descending down to another footbridge at (not so sandy) Sandymouth.

The tide is still retreating so a crowd of people are occupying a pathetic bit of sand at the head of the beach. The rest of the beach just consists of shingle.

The tide is nowhere near far enough out to continue along the beach so I head back onto the low cliffs where I have lovely views back over Sandymouth.

I continue along the path to reach Northcott Mouth. Finally some proper sand. I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach where at low tide, the wreck of the SS Belem is revealed, wrecked in November 1917.

I walk along the top of Maer Down where I now have views over the beaches at Bude.

I continue along the path to reach Crooklets Beach. I cross a footbridge and pass the beach huts.

I pass above the beach at Summerleaze Beach before heading in to the car park behind the beach where my lift awaits. I attempt one final shelter next to the RNLI shop but the wind is still blowing a gale.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
gorse
heather
water mint
ragwort
bladder campion
bracken
blackberries
honeysuckle
betony
hemp agrimony
clover
common toadflax
bindweed
hawthorn
goldfinches
sheep
cows
ponies
grasshoppers
ladybirds

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.7 miles today which amounts to 40179 steps. It has been a wild and blustery walk. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 1130 metres or 3707 feet.

MAP

dartmouth to torcross

September 18, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

wednesday, 14th september 2016

After yesterday's thundery weather it looks like today will be a lovely day for walking. Perfect autumnal weather.

Dartmouth low tide 10:36

Dartmouth high tide 17:11

I start the day just above the bank of the River Dart over the river from Dartmouth and head down the road to catch the Higher Ferry (I was robbed of 60p for the crossing!) over to Dartmouth. Dartmouth is shrouded in mist as I cross over the river.

I depart from the ferry and pass the Floating Bridge Inn and amble along the waterfront into Dartmouth..

I continue ambling through Dartmouth before walking along the cobbled waterfront, passing Bayards Cove Inn and then through Bayards Cove Fort, a small Tudor artillery fort guarding Dartmouth's inner harbour. I climb steps to leave the waterfront and head through Warfleet Creek and towards St Petrox Church.

From here I head next door to Dartmouth Castle which, for over 600 years, has guarded the narrow entrance to the Dart estuary.

I pass above Castle Cove where dogs are being exercised. It looks rather inviting down on the sandy and shingly beach but my path heads upwards.

I climb steeply and then the path zig zags out towards Blackstone Point, Coombe Point and then Warren Point. I have some final lovely views back to Dartmouth.

I also now have fantastic views over to my destination for the day, Slapton Sands and Torcross.

I pass secluded coves on the way, there are numerous dogwalkers and the skies are full of housemartins, before I head inland to reach a minor road at Little Dartmouth.

I come across a small copper butterfly feeding on an oxeye daisy. Not my greatest ever photograph I've taken but it's only the third small copper I've seen this year. It hasn't been a great year for butterflies.

The hydrangeas in the lanes around here are looking lovely.

I come across walkers enjoying the early morning sun including one person in a David Bowie t-shirt. I come across clumps of ivy heaving with bees, wasps, flies and red admiral butterflies.

This road leads to the A379 which takes me in to Stoke Fleming. I barely stay on the A379 before heading up Ravensbourne Lane and then Venn Lane where I come across what must practically be the whole village playing boules. How have I magically managed to cross the English Channel and ended up in France?

I walk down lanes through the village, surrounded by rooks, and come out next to the Green Dragon and St Peter's Church.

I can't find any coast path signs so wrongly follow the A379 out of Stoke Fleming. I know I've gone wrong because further on down the road I come across a coast path sign pointing back to Stoke Fleming above the road.

I continue along the road where I have lovely views over Blackpool Sands before the path ducks down between bushes and past the toilet block and out on to the beach.

I have a potter around the sandy and shingly beach and there are quite a few people on the beach enjoying the beautiful weather. I wander back to the Venus Beach Cafe where I go in search of an ice lolly as I'm starting to get quite hot. They must be running supplies down for the winter as they don't have much choice so I settle for a strawberry mini milk. It doesn't last long!

I leave Blackpool Sands via a lovely woodland path but when I leave the woods I find that conditions are sudden overcast. Huh?! I cross a steep grassy valley and have some lovely views one last time back over Blackpool Sands.

A rather circuitous route follows fields and paths to reach Strete where I pass the King's Arms (@KingsArmsStrete). As I recall, the pub was closed and to let the last time I came this way, but it is now renovated, run by locals and looking lovely.

I follow the A379 out of Strete but it's not long before I come across a new section of the South West Coast Path, only opened in July 2015, which takes me away from the busy main road. It's rather nice on this new section and I come across a pair of jays straight away.

The path takes me down towards Strete Gate picnic site and I pass a bench with magnificent views over Slapton Sands. The bench is dedicated to the memory of Philip and Mary Carter. Thank you Philip and Mary.

“In memory of Philip and Mary Carter. Tireless campaigners for South West Coast Path and founders of the South West Coast Path Association.”

I continue descending to Strete Gate and come across a small tortoiseshell butterfly feeding on buddleia.

Even though it is getting quite late in the year, the wild flowers around here are looking lovely.

I pass a sign pointing up the bridleway where I used to come down onto Slapton Sands.

I drop down onto Slapton Sands and trudge along the sandy and shingly beach. It has turned back into a beautiful day. I'm usually defeated by the shingle and blustery winds and head for a path by the main road but conditions are perfect today so I head all the way along the beach to Torcross. Actually, the beach isn't as shingly as I remember it.

Today's walking is over and I'm rather hot so I head to the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) where I enjoy a yummy pint of Otter Brewery's Otter Ale. What a perfect end to a perfect day.

We drive back to Dartmouth for some chips by the river with a beautiful view over to Kingswear.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

hydrangeas
pigeons
housemartins
great tits
buzzards
small copper butterfly
ox eye daisies
fuchsias
common toadflax
lords and ladies
robins
ivy
wasps
bees
red admirals
rooks
larches
holly
gunnera
red valerian
white valerian
sweet chestnuts
buddleia
jays
red campion
a small tortoiseshell butterfly
great mullein
musk mallows (I think)
perforate st john's-wort
common centaury

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.4 miles today which amounts to 25011 steps. The weather has been glorious and the walking as good as it gets. I'm in a generous mood. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 488 metres or 1601 feet.

MAP

teignmouth to exmouth

September 18, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 13th september 2016

My weather app is showing me the oddest forecast I've seen in a while. It seems to think it will be 22 degrees, sunny, thundery, rainy and with very little wind. Make up your mind! I wake up early to find thick fog blanketing South Devon. Who knows what today is going to bring.

Exmouth Dock low tide 10:10

Exmouth Dock high tide 16:39

I start the day back on the beach at Teignmouth. It's fair to say that it's not the most exciting walking today with most of the day spent walking along sea walls or flat paths next to the railway but at least I'll finish the day on the ferry over the Exe estuary to Exmouth and back.

The cliffs to my right are still shrouded in fog but the weather out to sea is starting to brighten up.

I walk along the beach and under Teignmouth Grand Pier (@TeignmouthPier), built in 1865 by an engineering consultant from London called Joseph Wilson. The pier suffered badly in the storms of 2014 and was closed for six months but is now almost fully open again.

I head up on to the esplanade before continuing along the beach below Teign Corinthian Yacht Club where I have a decision to make as to which direction to take. The last time I was here the weather was filthy and forced me inland but today the tide is far enough out and so passive as to not cause me any problems so I head up the slipway and along the sea wall next to the railway.

This section of the railway was severely damaged in the storms of 2014 and was shut for two months but has now been reopened after being rebuilt at a cost of £35m.

It's easy walking along the sea wall and I have the odd runner, walker or dog walker for company before reaching the beach beneath Shag Rock at Holcombe and from here I pass under the railway and walk up Smugglers Lane to reach the main road at Holcombe Cross.

I continue along the main road before a rather worn sign points me down Windward Lane and I then follow paths next to fields with fine views over Dawlish and towards Exmouth.

I pass some fellow coast path walkers heading in the other direction and suddenly there is a burst of thunder followed by several other bursts. We are surrounded by thunderstorms. This does not bode well!

I climb down steps and then over a footbridge over a stream by the railway before climbing up steps to meet the main road. I turn right and walk along a quiet road which used to be the toll road into Dawlish. It has started raining heavily so I reluctantly don my waterproofs. I head down a path and come across a viewpoint overlooking Dawlish.

I climb down steps towards the railway line and then head along the footpath next to the road into Dawlish. In Dawlish I head under arches beneath the railway so that I can explore the sandy beach. At least I would have done if it wasn't chucking it down. Instead I shelter under the railway arches with several other people and rearrange my equipment so that it's more waterproof.

Coast path signs are non-existent but I head inland slightly behind the railway station and follow a path out of Dawlish signposted a bit too late for the coast path. Some signs here warn me that this path will be closed for 5 days either from the 5th of September or the 15th of September, it's hard to tell they are so rubbish. Either way it shouldn't affect me. Sure enough though I come across fresh tarmac and a blocked path.

The blockage is rubbish though and I can easily get through.

I cross a bridge over the railway and follow the sea wall out of Dawlish. It's now very easy walking on the sea wall parallel to the railway. It's a very uneventfull walk with dog walkers, runners and trains for company. Thunderstorms continue to rage out to sea.

I pass the closed and rather forlorn Red Rock Snack Bar at Langstone Rock and cross a footbridge over the railway and follow a road through Dawlish Warren, passing the many holiday parks.

Trains continue to pass me in either direction along the railway and I now have an uneventful walk along the Exe Estuary Trail. Although thunderstorms surround me it is definitely starting to brighten up so i remove my waterproofs and strap them back on to my bag.

I wander along the trail photographing the flowers and berries although my camera is struggling to focus properly in the damp and dreary conditions.

I round the harbour at Cockwood where trains continue to thunder by and pass the Anchor Inn.

I cross the busy main road and a footway takes me to towards Starcross. Several E-type Jags pass me travelling in the opposite direction. I pass Oak Meadow Golf Club, a boarded up and for sale Starcross garage and then the Galleon Inn.

I cross the road and head through the railway station and a footbridge over the railway takes me down to the wooden pier where I can catch the Starcross Ferry over to Exmouth. I've missed the 11:10 ferry by 20 minutes but I'm in plenty of time for the 12:10.

After a 30 minute wait the ferry arrives and I pay my £5.50 return fair. The journey over to Exmouth takes about 15 minutes and a shower of extremely cold rain passes over the ferry in the middle of the river. I then wander around for a bit before taking the ferry back over to Starcross. The journey over the River Exe and back all seems a bit pointless but I like ferries!

It's now time to get my lift back to Marldon. I head up the road, passing the Atmospheric Railway Inn, and head through the car park for the ferry and railway station.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

cyclamen
blackberries
red campion
beeches
oaks
bull rushes
fleabane
common knapweed
ragwort
curlew
oystercatchers
canada geese
red valerian
moles
little egrets

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked a miserly 9.07 miles today which amounts to 19920 steps. It is hard to get a more boring walk than this one on the South West Coast Path and it has been thundery and wet but I've rather enjoyed myself. The ferry across to Exmouth and back has helped as have all of the trains. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been a pathetic 131 metres or 429 feet. The elevation chart looks pathetic!!

MAp

marldon to teignmouth via paignton and torquay

September 17, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 11TH september 2016

Considering that this year's weather has been rubbish, it looks like I'll have a pleasant day today. It's not going to break any temperature records but I'm not complaining!

Torbay low tide 07:10

Torbay high tide 13:38

I make an early start leaving our cottage at 07:30 and head back down through the two or so miles of the outskirts of Paignton to regain the coast path. It's just after 8 o'clock on a Sunday morning and there are already people drinking beer outside of the pubs. It's WAY too early, even for me!

I head out onto the red sandy beach and amble along the sand, passing the pier and the colourful beach huts. It is a glorious morning.

At the end of the esplanade I find that the tide is in so I head inland a little along a busy road. I walk along the beach at Preston Sands and then pass more colourful beach huts.

At the end of the beach huts I climb up a concrete slope and head across Hollicombe Head, cross a bridge over the railway line and enter Hollicombe Park.

I head along the main road into Torquay, passing Livermead Sands, and then come across some steps that lead down to Corbyn Head Beach where I find more colourful beach huts and a beach cafe.

I walk along the sea wall next to Torre Abbey, founded in 1196, which started life as a medieval monastery before its dissolution by Henry VIII. Nowadays it is a museum, art gallery and Ancient Scheduled Monument, before heading down onto Torre Abbey Sands. Did I mention that it is a glorious day?

I reach Torquay Harbour on the north shore of Tor Bay, which although now given over to marine leisure activities, still remains a commercial and busy little port.

I stop off in a park with a fountain under the shadow of the English Riviera Wheel.

I wander around the harbour and then head up Beacon Hill next to Living Coasts zoo and aquarium to reach the Imperial Hotel. I always seem to get lost in this suburban section of Torquay but today I'm going to follow the coast path perfectly.

Nope, I'm not! I go wrong straight away and head along the road instead of turning off somewhere. Who knows where. I didn't see any signs. I turn right into Daddyhole Road and regain the coast path at Daddyhole Plain, a limestone plateau 75 metres above the sea. I climb down steps, follow a tarmac path which takes me down to a road bend and climb down more steps to reach a beach cafe below the Osborne Hotel. I follow the coastal road above Meadfoot Beach before following a road uphill where a cyclist stops to chat with me about the south west coast path.

I manage to go wrong again and head along the road instead of going out to Thatcher Point. Mysterious footpaths lead out on to the road but I never see any entry points and the signs seem to be non-existant.

I've gone wrong here in the past as there are several footpaths that lead out to the coast but are dead ends due to landslips. This time though I spot a sign on the other side of the road which means I should have come down on the other side of the road along a hidden footpath. This coast path sign is clearly pointing to the right towards Anstey's Cove and along Bishops Walk. I can't possibly go wrong!

I head up the lane and follow a scabby, overgrown path in the wrong direction and which doesn't feel right. It isn't and the path just circles back around and dumps me back out on the road where I've just come from.

I return to puzzle over the sign again and somebody joins me who is also walking to Teignmouth and is as lost as me. I head back down the lane and notice a path to the left which I thought was just an entryway into the houses here but does turn out to be the coast path. I also come across a sign pointing down here which I completely missed first time around. Success!

I follow the woodland path which must be Bishops Walk and after a while come across a post which must be marking the coast path but the signs have fallen off so I've no idea which direction to go. Needless to say I choose the wrong one and have to retrace my steps. I continue along Bishops Walk and come across a car park.

I'm sure I've gone wrong here before but can't remember which route I took. Sure enough I take the wrong route again and head down steps towards Anstey's Cove. The cove turns out to be a dead end due to landslips but there is a cafe down here.

I retrace my steps and have a sudden feeling of deja vu as I recall retracing my steps here four years ago. I head along the road before coming across a signpost marked 'To Babbacombe & St Marychurch over the downs' where I climb up steps on a wooded slope and I'm now back up on the cliff tops.

I walk along the grassy cliffs and then across Babbacombe Cricket Club. It is now properly hot so I go in search of an ice lolly.

I suck on my ice lolly while I follow signs to Babbacombe Downs, the highest clifftop promenade in England. I'm sure I've come along Oddicombe Beach at the bottom of the cliffs in the past. Must have gone wrong again! I reach Babbacombe Cliff Railway, built in 1926 to shuttle tourists to and from the beach.

I turn right at a coast path sign and follow the road for a bit. I'm completely lost again before following a sign which promises to rejoin the coast path but which takes me along another scabby path and dumps me back out on the road again.

I rejoin the coast path as it continues through woods next to Torquay Golf Club. More coast path signs lead me to the beach access road at Watcombe Beach, surrounded by cliffs and wooded hillsides. A steep path leads down to the beach but I'm getting tired now so I continue through the woods to Maidencombe.

I come across a swallowtail caterpillar.

There's a coast path sign at Maidencombe but it's only pointing in one direction. Back from where I came from. My fellow lost walker joins me to puzzle over the sign! He must be more lost than me as the last time I saw him he was walking faster than me and yet somehow I've managed to overtake him.

I walk through the car park and detour a little to reach the Thatched Tavern at Maidencombe. Guess what! The pub has a thatched roof!!

I rejoin the coast path where it turns right before reaching the pub.

I head along a track marked for Shaldon. The path continues through fields and woods close to the cliff top and then ascends and descends several times before reaching the road above Labrador Bay. I have magnificent views back where I've been walking.

I descend steeply down a grassy slope where I have lovely views over Teignmouth and then follow the path alongside Shaldon Approach Golf before I climb down some steps and then follow a track. I climb up into Ness Woodland and then pass the Ness, which has lovely views over Shaldon and Teignmouth.

A teeny coastal road takes me to the village of Shaldon. The coast path runs along the busy Shaldon Bridge over the River Teign to Teignmouth but there's also a ferry in front of the Ferry Boat Inn which has been running since the 13th century, so I catch this today which drops me on Teignmouth back beach next to the lifeboat station and costs me £1.50.

That's my walking done for the day so I turn left in to town and head for the Waitrose car park where my lift back to our cottage awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

sunflowers
seagulls
buzzards
wisteria
buddleia
red admiral butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
a small copper butterfly

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 20.1 miles today which amounts to 45344 steps. Ouch again! It has been a lovely day's walking on the South West Coast Path in beautiful weather and I haven't really minded getting continually lost. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 825 metres or 2706 feet.

MAP

dartmouth to marldon via brixham and paignton

September 17, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 10TH september 2016

It looks like it will be a filthy start to the day but if I'm patient the weather should improve throughout the day and I should have some decent walking conditions later on.

Paignton high tide 12:15

Paignton low tide 18:33

We start the first day of Autumn coast path walking by taking the car over the River Dart on the Higher Ferry and then drive into Dartmouth and park up. It's a filthy start to the day and chucking it down so I hang around in the car for a bit hoping the rain will ease off. It doesn't so I don my waterproofs and head off.

I head through the lower part of Dartmouth, not particularly enjoying the manky weather.

I cross back over the River Dart to Kingswear using the lower ferry which costs me £1.50. On reaching Kingswear I pass under an arch next to the post office and then climb up Alma Steps.

I take one final look back over to Dartmouth and then set off for Brixham.

I follow a minor road out of the village and then follow a private road towards Kingswear Court. I enter Warren Woods and zig zag down a slope, cross over a stream and then zig zag up the other side of the valley.

I now have lovely views back over to Dartmouth Castle on the other side of the river mouth. At least they would be lovely if it wasn't still raining heavily!

I reach Brownstone Battery at Inner Froward Point, built in 1940 to protect the Dart estuary and Slapton and Blackpool Sands from enemy invasion. The battery consists of two gun positions and each would have been armed with six inch guns. The gun emplacements remain to this day as do the two magazines that served the guns. Below the gun emplacements are two searchlight positions which would have scanned the sea for enemy ships.

The path zig zags up and down the cliffs towards Outer Froward Point where, out to sea, can be seen Shooter Rock, Shag Stone and Mew Stone. I continue meandering along the coast path passing Old Mill Bay, Kelly's Cove and Pudcombe Cove. On the way I come across some friendly ponies who just stand around blocking the coast path.

Eventually a fellow walker turns up and barges through the ponies. I follow in his footsteps.

I come across the rear entrance of Coleton Fishacre which used to be infested with rhododendrons (presumably ponticum) but these appear to have been grubbed up now leaving hydrangeas all around.

The weather is finally brightening up and I can see some bits of blue sky. I come across a sign telling me that Man Sands is two and a quarter miles away.

blue sky! man sands two and a quarter miles away

I come across an apple tree laden with apples and presumably grown from a discarded core before rounding Scabbacombe Head where the skies are now decidedly blue. I pass another pony munching on the bracken.

blue skies over scabbacombe and man sands

A steep, slippery and muddy descent leads me down to Scabbacombe Sands. The edge of the stream near the top of the beach smells of mint. The beach is deserted.

I head along the cliffs high above Long Sands and round Crabrock Point, passing Crabrock Point Coastguard Cottage, to reach Man Sands where I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach.

It is a steep climb up onto Southdown Cliff where I pass cows making an awful racket.

I reach Sharkham Point and then head around St Mary's Bay, passing below the holiday village. I head down some scabby steps where the cliffs are infested with japanese knotweed and head out onto St Mary's Bay Beach. There are a few dog walkers on the beach.

It is now a short walk to Berry Head, a National Nature Reserve, where I amble along the meandering paths.

I join a road which passes the Berry Head Hotel and walk through Shoalstone Car Park. It is now a pleasant waterfront walk leading me into Brixham where I pass above the art deco Shoalstone Sea Water Pool. A harbourside walk from the breakwater takes me to the centre of the town where a statue of William Prince of Orange, who landed here on the 5th of November 1688, stands at the head of the harbour.

“The Liberties of England and The Protestant Religion I Will Maintain”

Brixham is heaving with people on this now pleasant Saturday afternoon, probably not helped by the fact that Fishstock Brixham seafood and music festival is taking place today.

I go in search of an ice lolly to cool me down and then pass the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe and then pass Brixham Fish Market, where Fishstock is in full swing, before heading out of Brixham at Oxen Cove next to what was once AstraZeneca's Brixham Environmental Laboratory but which was donated to Plymouth University in 2013.

I climb up concrete steps to reach Battery Gardens and pass the Brixham Battery Heritage Centre. I round Fishcombe Cove and a steep climb out of the cove awaits.

I walk around the beach at Churston Cove and a woodland path takes me past Churston Golf Club.

I walk across the shingly beach at Elberry Cove, which is surprisingly busy, before rounding Churston Point to reach the delightful Broadsands, you guessed it, a broad sandy beach flanked by colourful beach huts.

I enjoy the sandy beach here before walking past the colourful beach huts and exit at the far end of the beach, passing beneath the railway viaduct.

I then follow the railway line towards Goodrington Sands and the Paignton to Kingswear steam train passes me, heading in the opposite direction. I head along the beach at Goodrington Sands, passing the colourful beach huts and head past the Inn on the Quay. The emptying pints on the tables look very inviting.

I follow paths over Roundham Head and walk through Roundham Gardens where I have lovely views back over Goodrington Sands.

Paignton is now laid out in front of me.

I pass Paignton's tiny harbour and walk along the esplanade to reach the pier where I head inland in search of a much needed ice lolly. It has been a hot end to the day.

I head along the busy Paignton streets full of amusement arcades and it's now time to finish my walk by heading inland along the busy main road to reach the village of Marldon, on the outskirts of Paignton, where our holiday cottage for the week resides.

Unbelieveably, although I've been climbing up and down cliffs all day long, the long ascent out of Paignton to Marldon proves to be the steepest ascent of the day!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

hydrangeas
agapanthus
fig trees
echiums
blackberries
gorse
bracken
buzzards
honeysuckle
oxeye daisies
black sheep
mint
cows
red campion
red admiral butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
a comma butterfly
stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 22.6 miles today which amounts to 50823 steps. Ouch! It has been a lovely day's walking on the South West Coast Path, despite a manky start to the day. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 1161 metres or 3809 feet.