dartmouth to brixham

June 08, 2024 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesDAY, 7th may 2024

Start location: Dartmouth (SX 87863 51250)

End point: Brixham (SX 92545 56290)

Map: Explorer OL20

The weather forecast for today looks to be pretty good and I should have a nice sunny day.

Dartmouth low tide 12:10

Dartmouth high tide 18:39

I start the day in Dartmouth and head through the lower part of Dartmouth where I have lovely views across to Kingswear. There is a massive Hurtigruten Expeditions ship clogging up the harbour at Dartmouth.

I amble down towards the lower ferry and wait for it to cross over from Kingswear.

I cross over the River Dart to Kingswear using the lower ferry which costs me £2.00. On reaching Kingswear I pass under an arch next to the post office and then climb up Alma Steps.

I take one final look back over to Dartmouth and then set off for Brixham.

I follow a minor road out of the village where I come across spring flowers.

I then follow a coastal path diversion towards Kingswear Court.

I enter Warren Woods and zig zag down a slope, cross over a stream and then zig zag up the other side of the valley.

I now have lovely views back over to Dartmouth Castle on the other side of the river mouth.

I reach Brownstone Battery at Inner Froward Point, built in 1940 to protect the Dart estuary and Slapton and Blackpool Sands from enemy invasion.

I pass by Froward Point Coastwatch Station and head down the battery.

The battery consists of two gun positions and each would have been armed with six inch guns. The gun emplacements remain to this day as do the two magazines that served the guns. Below the gun emplacements are two searchlight positions which would have scanned the sea for enemy ships. The trouble is that all of the information boards that were here eight years ago seem to have disintegrated so nobody passing now would be able to read about all of this.

The path zig zags up and down the cliffs towards Outer Froward Point where, out to sea, can be seen Shooter Rock, Shag Stone and Mew Stone. I continue meandering along the coast path passing Old Mill Bay, Kelly's Cove and Pudcombe Cove.

I come across the rear entrance of Coleton Fishacre which used to be infested with rhododendrons (presumably ponticum) but these appear to have been grubbed up now leaving hydrangeas all around.

I come across some wall butterflies which I manage to photograph.

I round Scabbacombe Head enjoying all of the wild flowers.

A steep, slippery descent leads me down to Scabbacombe Sands.

I head along the cliffs high above Long Sands and round Crabrock Point, passing Crabrock Point Coastguard Cottage. Along the way I come across some yellowhammers on gorse and then a patch of early purple orchids.

I reach Mansands where I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach.

It is a steep climb up onto Southdown Cliff and I have to stop several times to catch my breath - otherwise known as admiring the view.

Once I reach the top I have magnificent views back over Mansands.

I head towards Sharkham Point enjoying more of the wild flowers.

I then head around St Mary's Bay, passing below the holiday villages. I would normally head down to St Mary's Bay Beach but I’m flagging today so I continue heading along the cliffs.

It is now a short walk to Berry Head, a National Nature Reserve, where I amble along the meandering paths. Along the way I come across another patch of early purple orchids.

I join a road which passes the Berry Head Hotel and walk through Shoalstone Car Park. It is now a pleasant waterfront walk leading me into Brixham where I pass above the art deco Shoalstone Sea Water Pool.

A harbourside walk from the breakwater takes me past the marina and into the centre of the town.

I pass Torbay Lifeboat Station next to the marina and then head towards the town centre car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

speckled wood butterflies
peacock butterflies
oystercatchers
seals
whitethroats
chaffinches
chiff chaffs
wrens
a rabbit
orange tip butterflies
small tortoiseshell butteflies
wall butterflies
great tits
robins
goldfinches
common lizards
yellowhammers
poppies
navelwort
wallflowers
mexican fleabane
irises
green alkanet
red valerian
herb robert
echiums
wild garlic
agapanthus
aeoniums
garlic mustard
bluebells
foxgloves
greater stitchwort
gorse
common dog-violet
oxeye daisies
bugle
primroses
stonechats
red campion
cow parsley
germander speedwell
gunnera
hydrangeas
celandines
scarlet pimpernel
sea thrift
flag iris
early purple orchids
honesty
ribwort plantain

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.9 miles which amounts to 32789 steps. It has taken me six and a quarter hours. It has been a thoroughly pleasant walk in lovely weather. Nine out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

heron's rest to brixham and back again

June 08, 2024 by Mark Seymour in john musgrave heritage tr, dart valley trail, greenway walk, south west coast path

JOHN MUSGRAVE HERITAGE TRAIL, DART VALLEY TRAIL, GREENWAY WALK AND SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

sunday, 5TH MAY 2024

Start location: Heron’s Rest (SX 87912 54748)

End point: Heron’s Rest (SX 87912 54748)

Map: Explorer OL20

The weather forecast doesn’t look very good today. I’m expecting rain and it’s not going to be particularly warm again.

Greenway Quay low tide 10:52

Greenway Quay high tide 17:23

I start the day at our holiday cottage, Heron’s Rest, set high above the River Dart and Dartmouth. It’s a rather foggy start to the day.

I leave the cottage and head left along the road where I pass what was once the Maypool Youth Hostel.

The wildflowers in the hedgerows are looking at their very best.

I enter a field where I have magnificent views over the River Dart before entering the grounds of Greenway House.

I come across a signpost for the Greenway Walk and head off in the direction it is pointed.

I follow a footpath through woods and then join a minor road and follow this for a while towards Galmpton, where I come across Greenway Halt just below the road.

Next to the entrance to Greenway Halt a sign points through fields telling me that there is a permissive path to Galmpton.

I follow the sign into a field full of cows and climb down to cross a stream. I continue following paths which take me to Galmpton Creek.

Galmpton Creek has been a boatbuilding centre for centuries, and in its heyday over 300 sailing trawlers were built here, as well as wooden motor torpedo boats during World War II. It is still a bustling marine repair centre, but its use nowadays is mostly for pleasure craft.

I pass Dartside Quay where I join Kiln Lane. I follow the lane which passes a lime kiln before joining onto Stoke Gabriel Road which takes me through Galmpton.

This lime kiln is one of several scattered on the estuary foreshore, and limestone from a nearby quarry was burnt here to produce a soil fertiliser. The area from Berry Head sits on a thick bed of Devonian limestone, once marine reefs, and Galmpton was an important centre for quarrying the stone on the River Dart. It was also used as a ballast in the early ships sailing from here to Newfoundland, and Galmpton Creek limestone has been found in some of the earliest buildings in the New World. It also appears in French and Spanish harbours, for the same reason.

At Galmpton I come across a hedgehog area sign but I don’t see any hedgehogs.

I pass Galleon Stores and next to the turning into Slade Lane can be found the Manor Inn.

I turn left into Slade Lane and follow the road up to Galmpton Warborough Common.

It is a pleasant surprise to find early purple orchids covering the football pitch here. It doesn’t look like football is played very often here!

I pass the war memorial next to the A3022.

I cross the busy road and then follow a footpath which takes me underneath the arches of Hookhills Viaduct, below the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway line.

The viaduct was designed by Isambard Kingdom Brunel. Construction commenced in 1860, after Brunel’s death, and was opened to the railway in 1864. The viaduct has nine arches and is 85 feet tall and 116 yards long.

I follow the road which takes me down to the large, curving red sandy beach at Broadsands. I amble out along the beach before retracing my steps, admiring the colourful beach huts and the Venus Cafe. It is properly murky.

It starts raining lightly as I leave Broadsands and amble along the South West Coast Path around Churston Point to reach the shingly Elberry Cove.

I amble along the beach and then head along the coast path besides Churston Golf Club before passing Fishcombe Point to reach Churston Cove, where I now have views towards Brixham Harbour.

It is properly raining now. I was expecting rain but not this heavy so I don my waterproofs. I cross the shingly and rocky beach and climb up onto the coast path and continue towards Brixham, dropping steeply down to Fishcombe Cove.

It is chucking it down so my camera goes away in my backpack and I put my waterproof cover over the bag. I climb steeply out again and head through Battery Gardens where the remains of 378 Battery Artillery Southern Command can be found. I head along Oxen Cove next to what was once AstraZeneca's Brixham Environmental Laboratory but which was donated to Plymouth University in 2013.

I pass through the car park and then pass Brixham Fish Market to reach the centre of Brixham.

I amble along the harbour and pass the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe.

I retrace my steps back through Brixham where Brixham Pirates Festival is taking place. A loud band is playing pirate songs and everyone is having a thoroughly miserable time!

I pass back next to Brixham Fish Market and back towards Fishcombe Cove where I pick up with the John Musgrave Heritage Trail.

The John Musgrave Heritage Trail is a 35 mile walking trail encompassing parts of Torbay, South Hams and Teignbridge. It was launched in March 2006 in memory of John Musgrave, a former chairman of the South Devon Group of the Ramblers, whose generous legacy to the group on his death in 2003 has been used to fund the development of the trail. John was an enthusiastic walker, leading walks in many of the areas through which the trail passes.

I pass through woods and then open scrubby ground where I come across some early purple orchids. It’s still chucking it down so I only risk one miserable photo.

I follow a track before joining a road which leads me into the village of Churston Ferrers.

I continue along the John Musgrave Heritage Trail and wander along Churston Road to reach Churston Cross. I cross the A3022 and come across Jubilee Sensory Garden but I can’t find out anything about it.

I pass Alston Farm and the rain is stopping and it’s trying to brighten up. At Higher Alston I follow a sign pointing left up a track. The wildflowers are looking delightful if rather sodden in the hedgerows.

I join the busy A379 which I warily cross by dodging the speeding cars. It’s then just a question of following fields back to our holiday cottage, Heron’s Rest.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
wild garlic
green alkanet
primroses
herb robert
cow parsley
garlic mustard
greater stitchwort
flag iris
dog rose
red valerian
roses
wisteria
mexican fleabane
pheasants
comfrey
cerinthe major purpurascens
irises
kniphofia
californian poppies
common dog-violet
ribwort plantain
early purple orchids
elderflower

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.2 miles which amounts to 27293 steps. It has taken me five and a quarter hours. The weather has been pretty miserable but I’ve enjoyed myself. Seven out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

brixham to torquay

September 14, 2022 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 4th september 2022

The weather forecast for the day is a bit on the dodgy side so I’d better get a move on to try and avoid as much of the rain as possible.

Torquay high tide 12:22

Torquay low tide 18:06

I start the day back in Brixham where I pass a statue of William Prince of Orange, who landed here on the 5th of November 1688, standing at the head of the harbour. The clouds are looking rather threatening.

“The Liberties of England and The Protestant Religion I Will Maintain”

I pass the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe.

I then pass behind Brixham Fish Market which has some lovely pictures representing Brixham on its walls.

I head out of Brixham passing Oxen Cove next to what was once AstraZeneca's Brixham Environmental Laboratory but which was donated to Plymouth University in 2013.

I climb up concrete steps to reach Battery Gardens and pass the Brixham Battery Heritage Centre. I round Fishcombe Cove and a steep climb out of the cove awaits.

I walk around the beach at Churston Cove and a woodland path takes me past Churston Golf Club.

I walk across the shingly beach at Elberry Cove, which is surprisingly busy with dog walkers and joggers.

I round Churston Point, which is heaving with dog walkers, to reach the delightful Broadsands, you guessed it, a broad sandy beach flanked by colourful beach huts.

broadsands

I enjoy the sandy beach here before walking past the colourful beach huts and exit at the far end of the beach, passing beneath the railway viaduct. I’ve now got a bit of blue sky which is a bit of a surprise but I’m not complaining.

I then follow the railway line towards Goodrington Sands and the Paignton to Kingswear steam train passes me, heading in the opposite direction.

I head along the beach at Goodrington Sands, passing the colourful beach huts and head past the Inn on the Quay.

I follow paths over Roundham Head and walk through Roundham Gardens where I have lovely, if rather murky, views back over Goodrington Sands.

I come across a load of pebbles with dinosaurs on them perched on the red sandstone cliffs.

Paignton is now laid out in front of me.

I pass Paignton's tiny harbour and walk along the esplanade to reach the pier.

I head out onto what’s left of the red sandy beach and amble along the sand, passing the pier and the colourful beach huts.

At the end of the esplanade I head inland a little along a busy road. I walk by the dwindling beach at Preston Sands and then pass more colourful beach huts.

At the end of the beach huts I climb up a concrete slope and head across Hollicombe Head, cross a bridge over the railway line and enter Hollicombe Park.

I head along the main road into Torquay, passing Livermead Sands, and then pass what is left of Corbyn Head Beach where you can find more colourful beach huts and a beach cafe.

I walk along the sea wall next to Torre Abbey, founded in 1196, which started life as a medieval monastery before its dissolution by Henry VIII. Nowadays it is a museum, art gallery and Ancient Scheduled Monument.

A crowd has gathered to watch a seal. I take some photos of the seal but they are rather blurry. It briefly starts lightly raining but almost immediately stops.

I reach Torquay Harbour on the north shore of Tor Bay, which although now given over to marine leisure activities, still remains a commercial and busy little port.

torquay harbour

I stop off in a park with a fountain under the shadow of the English Riviera Wheel.

I explore a bit more of Torquay but my walking for the day is over.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered (not much of it) on the walk today includes :-

common mullein
hydrangea
seal

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 9 miles which amounts to 22296 steps. It has taken me three and three quarter hours. The weather has been a bit on the dull side but the rain mostly held off and the walking has been very easy. It has been a thoroughly enjoyable short walk through suburban Torbay. Eight out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

dartmouth to brixham

September 14, 2022 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

saturday, 3rd september 2022

The weather forecast for this week looks awful but I might just about get away with a day without rain today.

Dartmouth high tide 11:10

Dartmouth low tide 16:52

I start the day in Dartmouth and head through the lower part of Dartmouth where I have lovely views across to Kingswear.

I amble down towards the lower ferry and wait for it to cross over from Kingswear.

I cross over the River Dart to Kingswear using the lower ferry which costs me £1.50. It’s exactly the same cost as six years ago. On reaching Kingswear I pass under an arch next to the post office and then climb up Alma Steps.

I take one final look back over to Dartmouth and then set off for Brixham.

I follow a minor road out of the village where I come across the autumn flowers of amaryllis, hydrangea, agapanthus and cyclamen. I then follow a private road towards Kingswear Court.

I enter Warren Woods and zig zag down a slope, cross over a stream and then zig zag up the other side of the valley.

I now have lovely views back over to Dartmouth Castle on the other side of the river mouth.

I reach Brownstone Battery at Inner Froward Point, built in 1940 to protect the Dart estuary and Slapton and Blackpool Sands from enemy invasion.

I pass by Froward Point Coastwatch Station and head down the battery.

The battery consists of two gun positions and each would have been armed with six inch guns. The gun emplacements remain to this day as do the two magazines that served the guns. Below the gun emplacements are two searchlight positions which would have scanned the sea for enemy ships. The trouble is that all of the information boards that were here six years ago seem to have disintegrated so nobody passing now would be able to read about all of this.

I come across the rear entrance of Coleton Fishacre which used to be infested with rhododendrons (presumably ponticum) but these appear to have been grubbed up now leaving hydrangeas all around.

I round Scabbacombe Head and then a steep, slippery descent leads me down to Scabbacombe Sands. Everywhere is so parched that it feels like I’m constantly pouding on concrete.

I come across fresh pony poo but I don’t see any ponies today. I also come across several beetles writhing on their backs so I stop to put them upright.

I head along the cliffs high above Long Sands and round Crabrock Point, passing Crabrock Point Coastguard Cottage, to reach Man Sands where I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach, although there’s not much in the way of sand. For such an isolated beach it is surprisingly busy.

man sands

It is a steep climb up onto Southdown Cliff and I have to stop several times to catch my breath - otherwise known as admiring the view.

I reach Sharkham Point and then head around St Mary's Bay, passing below the holiday village. I head down some concrete steps where the cliffs are infested with japanese knotweed and head out onto St Mary's Bay Beach. There are a few dog walkers on the beach but there’s not much of a beach today.

st mary's bay

It is now a short walk to Berry Head, a National Nature Reserve, where I amble along the meandering paths.

A harbourside walk from the breakwater takes me past the marina and into the centre of the town.

I pass by a memorial garden dedicated to the memory of Winston Spencer Churchill and opened on the 24th May 1966. I don’t know whether there is any connection between Churchill and Brixham.

I pass Torbay Lifeboat Station next to the marina.

I pass a statue of William Prince of Orange, who landed here on the 5th of November 1688, standing at the head of the harbour.

“The Liberties of England and The Protestant Religion I Will Maintain”

I amble around the harbour, passing the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe but Brixham is way too busy for me today so I don’t hang about.

I head behind Brixham Fish Market to reach the car park where my lift awaits.

brixham

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

amaryllis
hydrangea
agapanthus
cyclamen
stonechats
gunnera
speckled wood butterflies
fuchsia
herb robert
buddleia
red valerian
sloes
japanese knotweed

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.1 miles which amounts to 32273 steps. It has taken me six hours. The weather has been pretty good given the forecast and I haven’t encountered any rain. Eight out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

MAP

herons rest to broadsands, brixham and back again

May 11, 2019 by Mark Seymour in dart valley trail, south west coast path, john musgrave heritage tr, greenway walk

john musgrave heritage trail, dart valley trail, greenway walk and south west coast path

monday, 6th may 2019

The weather forecast looks pretty good. It should be sunny most of the day but it’s not going to be particularly warm again.

Dartmouth high tide 08:04

Dartmouth low tide 13:45

I start the day at our holiday cottage, Herons Rest, set high above the River Dart and Dartmouth. I leave the cottage and head left along the road where I pass Maypool Youth Hostel.

The wildflowers in the hedgerows are looking at their very best.

I enter a field where I have magnificent views over the River Dart before entering the grounds of Greenway House.

I come across a signpost for the Greenway Walk and head off in the direction it is pointed.

I follow a footpath through fields and next to farm buildings to reach Lower Greenway where I come across a lime kiln on the beach next to the river.

The lime kiln on the beach is one of several scattered on the estuary foreshore, and limestone from the quarry across the creek was burnt here to produce a soil fertiliser. The area from Berry Head sits on a thick bed of Devonian limestone, once marine reefs, and Galmpton was an important centre for quarrying the stone on the River Dart. It was also used as a ballast in the early ships sailing from here to Newfoundland, and Galmpton Creek limestone has been found in some of the earliest buildings in the New World. It also appears in French and Spanish harbours, for the same reason.

My notes tell me I can cross the beach here. What my notes don’t tell me is that the beach is swallowed up at high tide and the path is impassable. It happens to be just about high tide and I won’t be crossing the beach for a few hours.

I retrace my steps back up to a minor road and follow this for a while towards Galmpton. A bit unexpectedly I come across Greenway Halt just below the road. Next to the entrance to Greenway Halt a sign points through fields telling me that there is a permissive path to Galmpton.

I follow the sign into a field and climb down to cross a stream. I continue following paths which take me to Galmpton Creek.

I pass Dartside Quay where I join Kiln Lane. I follow the lane which passes another lime kiln before joining onto Stoke Gabriel Road which takes me through Galmpton.

Next to the turning into Slade Lane can be found the Manor Inn.

I turn left into Slade Lane and follow the road up to Galmpton Warborough Common.

It is a pleasant surprise to find early purple orchids covering the football pitch here. It doesn’t look like football is played very often here!

I pass the war memorial next to the A3022.

I cross the busy road and then follow a footpath which takes me underneath the arches of Hookhills Viaduct, below the Paignton and Dartmouth Steam Railway line.

I leave Broadsands and amble along the South West Coast Path around Churston Point to reach the shingly Elberry Cove.

I amble along the beach and then head along the coast path besides Churston Golf Club before passing Fishcombe Point to reach Churston Cove, where I now have views towards Brixham Harbour.

I cross the shingly and rocky beach and climb up onto the coast path and continue towards Brixham, dropping steeply down to Fishcombe Cove.

I climb steeply out again and head through Battery Gardens where the remains of 378 Battery Artillery Southern Command can be found. I head along Oxen Cove next to what was once AstraZeneca's Brixham Environmental Laboratory but which was donated to Plymouth University in 2013.

I pass through the car park where a new shellfish landing jetty is being constructed to improve Brixham’s fishing infrastructure. It should be open in Summer 2019. I then pass Brixham Fish Market to reach the centre of Brixham.

I amble along the harbour and pass the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe.

I retrace my steps back through Brixham and head back towards Fishcombe Cove where I pick up the John Musgrave Heritage Trail.

I pass through woods and then open scrubby ground where I come across whitethroats singing. I follow a track where I hear a cuckoo before joining a road which leads me into the village of Churston Ferrers. I explore the village and come across Churston Manor Hotel and St Mary the Virgin.

I rejoin the John Musgrave Heritage Trail and wander along Churston Road to reach Churston Cross. I cross the A3022 and pass Alston Farm. The wildflowers are looking delightful in the hedgerows.

I come across a field of rape.

At Higher Alston I fail at the final hurdle. Either I missed a sign or it doesn’t exist. I should have headed through fields to my left but instead I keep ambling on to reach the busy A379 which I warily cross by dodging the speeding cars.

Directly opposite me there should be a footpath. There isn’t. Instead I’m met by a massive, locked gate. There should be another footpath a little further up the road. There isn’t. I just find a wooden gate covered in barbed wire.

I return to the massive gate and climb over it and walk through fields in the general direction of Higher Greenway. I can see the Paignton and Dartmouth steam train chugging along below me.

It’s clear that this isn’t a footpath so I retrace my steps back to the main road and clamber back over the gate. I’m confused so I’ve got no option but to take the safe route down the A379 and through Galmpton and out through to Higher Greenway. It’s rather a long last trek to get me back to Herons Rest, our holiday cottage for the week.

[Addendum: I retrace my steps back to Higher Alston a couple of days later to see where I went wrong and there is indeed a sign pointing left up a track. Unfortunately it was hidden behind a big, red ‘Road Closed’ sign so it’s no wonder I missed it!]

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

honeysuckle
bluebells
green alkanet
red campion
herb robert
wild garlic
garlic mustard
early purple orchids
periwinkle
red valerian
daisy
greater stitchwort
ivy-leaved toadflax
cow parsley
alexanders
primrose
bush vetch
herb bennett
rape
chiffchaffs
song thrushes
chaffinches
wrens
whitethroats
a cuckoo
swallows
a buzzard
pheasants
great tits

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.2 miles today which amounts to 31532 steps. I’ve walked around 3-4 miles further than I should have done at the end of the walk which brings the score down on what was otherwise a thoroughly pleasant walk. Eight out of ten!