boscastle to port isaac

south west coast path

tuesday, 27th september 2016

It properly chucked it down all day yesterday. Fortunately it was a rest day and a day for archiving but I'm expecting the coast path to be a bit slippery and muddy after so much rain. The weather forecast for today isn't great but it's better than yesterday.

Port Isaac low tide 09:47

Port Isaac  high tide 15:53

I start the day back in Boscastle at the car park next to the shops and walk down through the village passing the Cobweb Inn and the bridge over the river before heading along the tarmac path next to the harbour. I pass the Boscastle Fishing Company (@BoscastleFish) shop, the National Trust's second hand bookshop and their shop and cafe. I reach the Museum of Witchcraft and Magic (@witchmuseum) and head over the footbridge.

It begins to rain and it's one of those drizzly misty rains that somehow manages to soak you without raining much. Nice! It's not going to be a good day for photographs.

I pass next to the harbour wall and have some final views of the village before climbing back onto the cliffs where I have some lovely views of the sheltered inlet to the harbour.

I pass clumps of sea thrift flowering much later than they do back at home and stop to photograph some of the sodden flowers on the path.

I pass a white tower on Willapark, built in 1827 as a summer home. There are the remains of man made rabbit warrens here. I head out along the cliffs passing Grower Rock and the Ladies Window rock arch. I have magnificent views back to where I've come from, at least I should have but it's extremely murky out.

murky seas

I now pass numerous sea stacks, Short Island, Long Island and the rocks that make up Saddle Rocks before coming across a cow blocking the path. She hangs around for a photograph before ambling off. I don't think she's that impressed with the weather either.

cow blocking the path

I head above Trambley Cove and Trewethet Cove before reaching Rocky Valley. It certainly lives up to its name. I cross a footbridge at the head of the valley and then climb steps up the other side.

rocky valley

I head over Benoath Cove and Bossinney Haven and walk inland of a headland before heading off across Smith's Cliff on the seaward side of Camelot Castle Hotel and Tintagel.

I've now reached Tintagel Castle on Tintagel Head and drop down to Castle Cove to explore the beach and Merlin's Cave. It feels wild and remote today but was once a hive of mining, slate quarrying and fishing activity. Beyond Merlin's Cave there is King Arthur Mine, driven into the headland and worked for silver and lead in the 19th century. 

I head up towards the castle and then double back on myself as the coast path doesn't run this way. I pass the cafe, once used as offices and workshops for the mines and climb back up onto the cliffs. I'm suddenly enveloped in thick fog.

I head towards St Materiana's Church but don't see it until the last minute because of the fog. Odd name for a church and I don't know why it's called this. The cover of the first edition of possibly my favourite book, A Month in the Country by J L Carr, featured this church even though the book itself was set in Yorkshire.

st materiana's church

I pass a sign in the churchyard warning me about the presence of ADDERS!!!! No adder is going to be foolish enough to be about today.

 

 

I completely lose my sense of direction in the fog and head off in the wrong direction before correcting myself. I continue along a track, passing Tintagel Youth Hostel which is so engulfed in fog I can barely make it out. 

foggy youth hostel

It is now a rocky path over Glebe Cliff, around Dunderhole Point, Gull Point, Higher Penhallic Point and Lower Penhallic Point passing quarries on the way. It should be a familiar path but I can't see a thing.

foggy sea stack

I climb down the cliff to reach Trebarwith Strand, one of my favourite beaches. The path down is lethal after all of the rain and fog. The trouble is that Trebarwith Strand disappears completely at high tide. Although I'm not really close to high tide the beach has all but disappeared so there's just rocks and a tiny bit of sand.

murky trebarwith strand

I attempt to climb down to what's left of the beach but as soon as I step out on to the rocks I start sliding down. This is not good. My boots do not like wet rock so I have to abandon going down to the beach.

I return to Trebarwith Strand a couple of days later to enjoy the beach in much better weather conditions.

trebarwith strand a couple of days later

I climb steeply out of Trebarwith Strand, passing The Port William, and I have final views over the strand before heading back along the cliffs.

dreary view over trebarwith strand

The views, bad as they are, don't last for long and I'm enveloped in fog once again. I can now barely make out Trebarwith Strand in the thick fog.

five minutes later

I round Dennis Point and then drop down into the valley behind Backways Cove.

I then head along an easy path above Treligga Cliff and then cross a stone slab bridge above Tregardock Beach. I briefly drop down to the beach but it's clear that it has all but disappeared.

I retrace my steps and climb up onto Tregardock Cliff. The path is overhung by rusting barbed wire waiting to spike anyone who slips on the muddy path. Thanks Mr nice farmer. I come across some fellow coast path walkers. One of them has been walking for the past three and a half weeks all the way from Plymouth. None of us are enjoying the conditions.

I amble along not enjoying the non existent views before the going gets a bit difficult along Jacket's Point. I cross a footbridge above a waterfall and then climb a load of steps before crossing several valleys to reach Barrett's Zawn. It is extremely tough going slipping and sliding on the mud and slippery rocks.

The weather threatens to improve and I even spot a bit of blue sky, briefly. I can now make out Port Isaac, not that far away. The improvement doesn't last long and the weather descends back into mist and drizzle.

foggy port isaac

I continue along the top of Bounds Cliff and pass over Pigeon's Cove, St Illickswell Gug and Rams Hole before rounding Tresungers Point.

I drop down to the road at what was once Headlands Hotel but is now derelict. I walk down into Port Gaverne, passing the Port Gaverne Restaurant and Hotel. Even the concrete path next to the hotel feels slippy as I gingerly descend.

port gaverne restaurant and hotel

port gaverne

I follow the road steeply uphill out of Port Gaverne to reach my destination for the day, the car park above Port Isaac. It has been one manky, wet, wild and windy walk. 

beach collection

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • hydrangeas

  • grey wagtails

  • robins

  • sea thrift

  • heather

  • red campion

  • ragwort

  • hemp agrimony

  • common toadflax

  • clover

  • cows

  • no adders

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.9 miles today which amounts to 38064 steps. This is normally a lovely walk but the weather has been terrible and I haven't seen a thing all day long. The path has been treacherous and I've slipped and slid my way along taking probably two hours longer than I usually would. The photographs have been rubbish and I couldn't even get out on to Trebarwith Strand. Seven out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 822 metres or 2696 feet.

MAP

boscastle harbour

sea thrift

ragwort

merlin's cave

trebarwith strand

bude to boscastle

south west coast path

sunday, 25th september 2016

It chucked it down overnight but the bad weather was clear by the morning and the forecast is for quite a nice day if a little cold and blustery.

Boscastle low tide 07:11

Boscastle high tide 13:40

I start the day back in stinky Bude in the car park behind Summerleaze Beach. I head out onto the beach where it is blowing a gale.

I head back along the beach and take a footbridge over the River Neet and then a wooden lockbridge over Bude Canal.

I pass Efford Cottage, built in 1820 and head on a path towards the coast. My hat barely stays on my head despite the fact that it is tightly strapped on.

I pass the eight sided storm tower on Compass Point, built in the 1820s as a coastguard shelter. I try to shelter from the wind inside but it's basically useless as a storm shelter. 

storm tower

inside the storm tower

I wander along grassy slopes where I pass Efford Beacon trig point, number S5629.

efford beacon trig point

I now have lovely views back over stinky Bude. 

view back over bude

I pass the Elements Cafe Bar, Italian Restaurant and Hotel and then wander through Phillip's Point Nature Reserve and enjoy the late season flowers here.

I pass Higher Longbeak and then Lower Longbeak with its funerary round barrow and a rainbow appears in the sky behind me.

rainbow

I descend towards Widemouth Sand, passing the Bay View Inn. I walk along the beach at Widemouth Bay heading towards Black Rock before heading back up onto the cliffs. The photographs suggest that it is a glorious day but the reality is that it's blowing a gale and I'm struggling to stay on my feet.

black rock

I head along a rocky track before crossing a stream where a fellow coast path walker passes me. I head along the minor road passing the Outdoor Adventure Centre and climb up onto Penhalt Cliff where I have some lovely views back towards Bude at a car park, and pass my fellow coast path walker as she takes a drink.

view back to bude

I pass Foxhole Point and then Bridwill Point before climbing steeply down to Millook. It's time to dig out the walking pole as the path is slippery and tricky to navigate. I wander down the road and head out onto pebbly Millook Haven Beach.

millook haven beach

I waste far too much time here and get lapped by my fellow coast path walker again and I see her head up through the vegetation on the cliffs from the beach

I climb steeply up the road and then regain the cliffs and have lovely views ahead of me. I enter woods at Dizzard Point, which are blissfully peaceful and filter out the wind perfectly, before entering fields and bush covered slopes, passing Chipman Cliff, Stoneivy Rock and the cave at Mot's Hole.

view to dizzard point

Along the way I pass Dizzard Point trig point, number S5612. I also overtake my fellow coast path walker one final time.

dizzard point trig point

I have magnificent views ahead of me before coming across the deepest valley I think I've ever come across. It doesn't even appear to be marked on my Ordnance Survey map but the National Trust have it down as Lower Tresmorn. There's nothing 'lower' about it. The photograph does it no justice. I clamber slowly down the valley, cross a footbridge and then clamber gingerly up the other side, being constantly whipped by the blustery wind.

lower tresmorn

I look back over the valley and spot my fellow coast path walker one last time. She's a tiny dot climbing slowly down the cliff. The path heads out to Castle Point and passes Little Barton Strand and Great Barton Strand and heads towards Pencannow Point before darting back towards Crackington Haven where I come across a friendly herd of cows.

friendly herd of cows

I now have lovely views over Crackington Haven and I head down the slopes to the village, enjoying the flowers and berries next to the path.

view over crackington haven

I pass the Coombe Barton Inn and head down to enjoy the beach here as well as the heavily folded rocks 

crackington haven beach

It is now a rollercoaster ride to Boscastle. I climb out of Crackington Haven and head over three footbridges. On the slopes above Crackington Haven I come across my fourth small copper butterfly of the year. Not the greatest of photographs but there you go.

small copper butterfly

I amble along the cliffs, where I have lovely views back over Crackington Haven and walk above Little Strand, Samphire Rock, The Strangles and head along High Cliff.

view back to crackington haven

I come across an outcrop of folded rocks.

folded rocks

Next up is the MASSIVE Rusey Cliff and I'm beginning to feel the effect of all of the climbing. There is apparently a tricky descent to Rusey Beach but I don't see it and it's probably too dangerous today anyway. I head towards Gull Rock.

rusey cliff

It continues to be tricky going but I head along the cliffs passing Saddle Rock, Beeny Sisters and around Fire Beacon Point and pass Seal's Hole before doubling back on myself around a valley at Pentargon, crossing above a waterfall. The wind is forcing the waterfall to fall back on itself.

I head out towards Penally Point and suddenly I can see the harbour at Boscastle.

boscastle harbour

It has been hard going all day long but I'm finally almost at the end. I swing back downhill and walk down a narrow road past a number of cottages and buildings to reach the bridge over the river.

boscastle cottages

There's one last piece of excitement for the day as there's an ambulance on the bridge!

boscastle bridge

That's my walking done for the day so I head for the car park where my lift awaits.

beach collection

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • red valerian
  • common toadflax
  • common knapweed
  • devil's-bit scabious
  • fleabane
  • cat's ear
  • honeysuckle
  • heather
  • ragwort
  • ivy
  • red campion
  • small copper butterfly
  • cows
  • sheep
  • horses
  • hydrangeas
  • elderberries
  • blackberries
  • the odd bit of sea thrift

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.5 miles today which amounts to 48010 steps. Ouch! It has been a wild and windy day again and the going has been tough since leaving Bude. The walking is just about as good as it gets. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been a massive 1174 metres or 3851 feet. Look at that graph! What a rollercoaster ride!!

MAP

summerleaze beach

widemouth bay

dizzard point

cows

crackington haven

boscastle cottages

hartland quay to bude

south west coast path

saturday, 24th september 2016

Considering it's late September, the weather forecast for today looks to be pretty good. What I failed to notice though was the strength of the wind which proved to be a factor throughout the day.

For some reason my tide time app isn't showing the low tides at Bude so I have to choose Boscastle instead. The tide times won't be a lot different.

Boscastle low tide 05:38 and 18:32

Boscastle high tide 12:17

I start the day on the beach at Hartland Quay. Actually there's not much beach today as the tide is in too far. It is a wild and windy start to the day which doesn't bode well for the rest of the day. I can't stand strong winds which isn't a good trait for a coast path walker. It makes map reading impossible, it means I have to strap on my hat tightly, the straps on my bag flap about all over the place and worst of all, it makes recording anything almost impossible.

wild and windy hartland quay

The quay here was originally built in the 16th century but swept away in 1887. I marvel at the folded rocks here but it's time to get going. I wander up the slipway, completed in 1976 by volunteers from the Hartland Boat Club. Lundy is clearly visible out to sea.

hartland quay

I leave the beach and head up the road to the  Hartland Quay Hotel and pass the Wreckers' Retreat Bar, a traditional smugglers inn.

I climb steps uphill and head out on the blustery coast path before coming across a waterfall at Speke's Mill Mouth.

waves at hartland quay

I head inland and cross a footbridge. I now have a choice of routes. I can either take the cliff top route or the valley route behind the cliffs. I choose the valley route which I hope will provide some shelter from the wind. and enjoy the late flowers and fruits of the valley.

choices

I pass behind Brownspear Point, Longpeak, Hole Rock, Gunpath Rock, Mansley Rock and Cow Rock. I rejoin the coast path and the sea is raging. I continue along the path to reach a road junction at Sandhole Cross.

raging sea

I turn right along the road and then regain the cliffs to round Nabor Point. Somebody around here is keen on transmitter masts! The footpath ahead is closed due to a landslip so I head into fields instead.

footpath closed

I pass Gull Rock, Coney Rock and Ramtor Rock and come across an Iron Age fort at Embury Beacon. Most of the fort has fallen into the sea but the main rampart still runs across the headland.

I continue along the path, descending to Knap Head before a steep zig zag path takes me down to Welcombe Mouth where stepping stones take me across a stream above another waterfall.

welcombe mouth

welcombe mouth

The sea is raging here but it seems to be too tame for some surfers who join me in heading towards Marsland Mouth. We pass the car park and climb steeply up a scrubby slope to find a hut overlooking Marsland Mouth where Ronald Duncan wrote his poetry and plays..

ronald duncan's hut

The hut fell into disrepair after Ronald died in 1982 but it was rebuilt by his daughter Briony. Rebuilt it might have been but it's not providing much shelter today.

A series of steps takes me down the steep slope to Marsland Mouth. I pop down to the beach and the sea, if anything, is raging more than the sea at Welcombe Mouth. Sure enough there are several surfers at this remote spot who are gingerly entering the sea. I'm sure the effort will be worth it if they can avoid crashing onto the rocks.

marsland mouth

I rejoin the coast path and cross a footbridge at Marsland Water. I'm now on the border between Devon and Cornwall and a wooden sign welcomes me to Kernow.

welcome to cornwall

I climb wooden steps and then climb up onto the top of Marsland Cliff. Out to sea I can see Gull Rock.

I climb steeply down more steps and then cross a footbridge over a stream. I amble across Cornakey Cliff  and a grassy descent leads me to a footbridge over Westcott Wattle.

A slippery scrambling climb leads me over Henna Cliff before crossing another footbridge over a stream and I can now make out Morwenstow just inland. More steps lead me up onto Vicarage Cliff where I almost get blown off the cliff. 

I should come across Hawker's Hut, a little hut made from driftwood and built by the Revered Hawker, the eccentric Victorian vicar of Morwenstow, who liked to smoke a pipe of opium here with his literary friends. I am so battened down due to the wind that I completely miss the sign for the hut.

I zig zag down a steep slope and pass a National Trust sign for Tidna Shute and cross yet another footbridge over a stream before coming across a ruined coastguard lookout station at Higher Sharpnose Point.

ruined coastguard lookout station

I try to shelter inside the station but the lack of glass means that the wind just rages all around me.

I continue along the coast path and come across sheep sheltering from the wind on the cliffs.

sheltering sheep

I amble along a grassy path before a steep zig zag descent leads me to a footbridge in the valley at Stanbury Mouth. Apparently a steep and difficult climb takes you down to the beach but I can't see a path and it looks too dangerous anyway.

I now have a steep climb up to the radar station at GCHQ Bude. It's an eery place and it feels like they are listening to me! Apparently I'm not allowed to take any photographs. WTF?! I'm on a public footpath so I can do pretty much whatever I want within reason.

gchq bude

I amble past the station and along the cliff path to round Steeple Point. Out at sea are Squench Rock, Pigsback Rock and Kempthorn's Rock.

the path to steeple point

A steep descent down the cliff takes me to Duckpool Beach. The beach here is rather pleasant, particularly when the tide is out. I crunch across the beach and head down to the tiny bit of grey sand exposed by the retreating tide.

duckpool

duckpool

I enjoy the beach here with some dog walkers. I should now head inland to cross a footbridge but instead cross back up the beach and find a path that climbs up the steep grassy slope back onto the clifftops. I walk downhill and cross a teeny footbridge at Warren Gutter.

From here it is a thoroughly lovely walk along the clifftops above Warren Little Beach, Eliza Beach and Warren Long Beach before descending down to another footbridge at (not so sandy) Sandymouth.

(not so sandy) sandymouth

The tide is still retreating so a crowd of people are occupying a pathetic bit of sand at the head of the beach. The rest of the beach just consists of shingle.

The tide is nowhere near far enough out to continue along the beach so I head back onto the low cliffs where I have lovely views back over Sandymouth.

view back over sandymouth

I continue along the path to reach Northcott Mouth. Finally some proper sand. I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach where at low tide, the wreck of the SS Belem is revealed, wrecked in November 1917.

northcott mouth

I walk along the top of Maer Down where I now have views over the beaches at Bude.

view over the beaches at bude

I continue along the path to reach Crooklets Beach. I cross a footbridge and pass the beach huts.

beach huts

I pass above the beach at Summerleaze Beach before heading in to the car park behind the beach where my lift awaits. I attempt one final shelter next to the RNLI shop but the wind is still blowing a gale.

beach collection

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • red campion
  • gorse
  • heather
  • water mint
  • ragwort
  • bladder campion
  • bracken
  • blackberries
  • honeysuckle
  • betony
  • hemp agrimony
  • clover
  • common toadflax
  • bindweed
  • hawthorn
  • goldfinches
  • sheep
  • cows
  • ponies
  • grasshoppers
  • ladybirds

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.7 miles today which amounts to 40179 steps. It has been a wild and blustery walk. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 1130 metres or 3707 feet.

MAP

hartland quay

bude

beach huts

dartmouth to torcross

south west coast path

wednesday, 14th september 2016

After yesterday's thundery weather it looks like today will be a lovely day for walking. Perfect autumnal weather.

Dartmouth low tide 10:36

Dartmouth high tide 17:11

I start the day just above the bank of the River Dart over the river from Dartmouth and head down the road to catch the Higher Ferry (I was robbed of 60p for the crossing!) over to Dartmouth. Dartmouth is shrouded in mist as I cross over the river.

dartmouth from the ferry

misty dartmouth

I depart from the ferry and pass the Floating Bridge Inn and amble along the waterfront into Dartmouth..

I continue ambling through Dartmouth before walking along the cobbled waterfront, passing Bayards Cove Inn and then through Bayards Cove Fort, a small Tudor artillery fort guarding Dartmouth's inner harbour. I climb steps to leave the waterfront and head through Warfleet Creek and towards St Petrox Church.

From here I head next door to Dartmouth Castle which, for over 600 years, has guarded the narrow entrance to the Dart estuary.

I pass above Castle Cove where dogs are being exercised. It looks rather inviting down on the sandy and shingly beach but my path heads upwards.

castle cove

I climb steeply and then the path zig zags out towards Blackstone Point, Coombe Point and then Warren Point. I have some final lovely views back to Dartmouth.

view back to dartmouth

I also now have fantastic views over to my destination for the day, Slapton Sands and Torcross.

destination slapton sands

I pass secluded coves on the way, there are numerous dogwalkers and the skies are full of housemartins, before I head inland to reach a minor road at Little Dartmouth.

I come across a small copper butterfly feeding on an oxeye daisy. Not my greatest ever photograph I've taken but it's only the third small copper I've seen this year. It hasn't been a great year for butterflies.

small copper butterfly

The hydrangeas in the lanes around here are looking lovely.

I come across walkers enjoying the early morning sun including one person in a David Bowie t-shirt. I come across clumps of ivy heaving with bees, wasps, flies and red admiral butterflies.

This road leads to the A379 which takes me in to Stoke Fleming. I barely stay on the A379 before heading up Ravensbourne Lane and then Venn Lane where I come across what must practically be the whole village playing boules. How have I magically managed to cross the English Channel and ended up in France?

I walk down lanes through the village, surrounded by rooks, and come out next to the Green Dragon and St Peter's Church.

the green dragon

I can't find any coast path signs so wrongly follow the A379 out of Stoke Fleming. I know I've gone wrong because further on down the road I come across a coast path sign pointing back to Stoke Fleming above the road. 

I continue along the road where I have lovely views over Blackpool Sands before the path ducks down between bushes and past the toilet block and out on to the beach.

view over blackpool sands

I have a potter around the sandy and shingly beach and there are quite a few people on the beach enjoying the beautiful weather. I wander back to the Venus Beach Cafe where I go in search of an ice lolly as I'm starting to get quite hot. They must be running supplies down for the winter as they don't have much choice so I settle for a strawberry mini milk. It doesn't last long!

blackpool sands

I leave Blackpool Sands via a lovely woodland path but when I leave the woods I find that conditions are sudden overcast. Huh?! I cross a steep grassy valley and have some lovely views one last time back over Blackpool Sands.

view back over Blackpool Sands

A rather circuitous route follows fields and paths to reach Strete where I pass the King's Arms (@KingsArmsStrete). As I recall, the pub was closed and to let the last time I came this way, but it is now renovated, run by locals and looking lovely.

the king's arms

I follow the A379 out of Strete but it's not long before I come across a new section of the South West Coast Path, only opened in July 2015, which takes me away from the busy main road. It's rather nice on this new section and I come across a pair of jays straight away.

The path takes me down towards Strete Gate picnic site and I pass a bench with magnificent views over Slapton Sands. The bench is dedicated to the memory of Philip and Mary Carter. Thank you Philip and Mary.

view over slapton sands

In memory of Philip and Mary Carter. Tireless campaigners for South West Coast Path and founders of the South West Coast Path Association.

I continue descending to Strete Gate and come across a small tortoiseshell butterfly feeding on buddleia.

small tortoiseshell

Even though it is getting quite late in the year, the wild flowers around here are looking lovely.

I pass a sign pointing up the bridleway where I used to come down onto Slapton Sands.

old route

I drop down onto Slapton Sands and trudge along the sandy and shingly beach. It has turned back into a beautiful day. I'm usually defeated by the shingle and blustery winds and head for a path by the main road but conditions are perfect today so I head all the way along the beach to Torcross. Actually, the beach isn't as shingly as I remember it.

slapton sands

Today's walking is over and I'm rather hot so I head to the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) where I enjoy a yummy pint of Otter Brewery's Otter Ale. What a perfect end to a perfect day.

otter ale

We drive back to Dartmouth for some chips by the river with a beautiful view over to Kingswear.

view over to kingswear

beach collection

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • hydrangeas
  • pigeons
  • housemartins
  • great tits
  • buzzards
  • small copper butterfly
  • ox eye daisies
  • fuchsias
  • common toadflax
  • lords and ladies
  • robins
  • ivy
  • wasps
  • bees
  • red admirals
  • rooks
  • larches
  • holly
  • gunnera
  • red valerian
  • white valerian
  • sweet chestnuts
  • buddleia
  • jays
  • red campion
  • a small tortoiseshell butterfly
  • great mullein
  • musk mallows (I think)
  • perforate st john's-wort
  • common centaury

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.4 miles today which amounts to 25011 steps. The weather has been glorious and the walking as good as it gets. I'm in a generous mood. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 488 metres or 1601 feet.

MAP

dartmouth

red admiral

blackpool sands

slapton sands

teignmouth to exmouth

south west coast path

tuesday, 13th september 2016

My weather app is showing me the oddest forecast I've seen in a while. It seems to think it will be 22 degrees, sunny, thundery, rainy and with very little wind. Make up your mind! I wake up early to find thick fog blanketing South Devon. Who knows what today is going to bring.

Exmouth Dock low tide 10:10

Exmouth Dock high tide 16:39

I start the day back on the beach at Teignmouth. It's fair to say that it's not the most exciting walking today with most of the day spent walking along sea walls or flat paths next to the railway but at least I'll finish the day on the ferry over the Exe estuary to Exmouth and back.

teignmouth

The cliffs to my right are still shrouded in fog but the weather out to sea is starting to brighten up.

I walk along the beach and under Teignmouth Grand Pier (@TeignmouthPier), built in 1865 by an engineering consultant from London called Joseph Wilson. The pier suffered badly in the storms of 2014 and was closed for six months but is now almost fully open again.

teignmouth pier

I head up on to the esplanade before continuing along the beach below Teign Corinthian Yacht Club where I have a decision to make as to which direction to take. The last time I was here the weather was filthy and forced me inland but today the tide is far enough out and so passive as to not cause me any problems so I head up the slipway and along the sea wall next to the railway.

This section of the railway was severely damaged in the storms of 2014 and was shut for two months but has now been reopened after being rebuilt at a cost of £35m.

teignmouth sea wall

It's easy walking along the sea wall and I have the odd runner, walker or dog walker for company before  reaching the beach beneath Shag Rock at Holcombe and from here I pass under the railway and walk up Smugglers Lane to reach the main road at Holcombe Cross.

shag rock

railway at holcombe

I continue along the main road before a rather worn sign points me down Windward Lane and I then follow paths next to fields with fine views over Dawlish and towards Exmouth.

view over dawlish

I pass some fellow coast path walkers heading in the other direction and suddenly there is a burst of thunder followed by several other bursts. We are surrounded by thunderstorms. This does not bode well!  

I climb down steps and then over a footbridge over a stream by the railway before climbing up steps to meet the main road. I turn right and walk along a quiet road which used to be the toll road into Dawlish. It has started raining heavily so I reluctantly don my waterproofs. I head down a path and come across a viewpoint overlooking Dawlish. 

thunderstorms over dawlish

I climb down steps towards the railway line and then head along the footpath next to the road into Dawlish. In Dawlish I head under arches beneath the railway so that I can explore the sandy beach. At least I would have done if it wasn't chucking it down. Instead I shelter under the railway arches with several other people and rearrange my equipment so that it's more waterproof.

dawlish beach in the rain

Coast path signs are non-existent but I head inland slightly behind the railway station and follow a path out of Dawlish signposted a bit too late for the coast path. Some signs here warn me that this path will be closed for 5 days either from the 5th of September or the 15th of September, it's hard to tell they are so rubbish. Either way it shouldn't affect me. Sure enough though I come across fresh tarmac and a blocked path.

The blockage is rubbish though and I can easily get through.

I cross a bridge over the railway and follow the sea wall out of Dawlish. It's now very easy walking on the sea wall parallel to the railway. It's a very uneventfull walk with dog walkers, runners and trains for company. Thunderstorms continue to rage out to sea.

a damp dawlish sea wall

I pass the closed and rather forlorn Red Rock Snack Bar at Langstone Rock and cross a footbridge over the railway and follow a road through Dawlish Warren, passing the many holiday parks.

Trains continue to pass me in either direction along the railway and I now have an uneventful walk along the Exe Estuary Trail. Although thunderstorms surround me it is definitely starting to brighten up so i remove my waterproofs and strap them back on to my bag.

I wander along the trail photographing the flowers and berries although my camera is struggling to focus properly in the damp and dreary conditions.

I round the harbour at Cockwood where trains continue to thunder by and pass the Anchor Inn.

harbour at cockwood

anchor inn

I cross the busy main road and a footway takes me to towards Starcross. Several E-type Jags pass me travelling in the opposite direction. I pass Oak Meadow Golf Club, a boarded up and for sale Starcross garage and then the Galleon Inn. 

galleon inn

I cross the road and head through the railway station and a footbridge over the railway takes me down to the wooden pier where I can catch the Starcross Ferry over to Exmouth. I've missed the 11:10 ferry by 20 minutes but I'm in plenty of time for the 12:10.

starcross railway station

After a 30 minute wait the ferry arrives and I pay my £5.50 return fair. The journey over to Exmouth takes about 15 minutes and a shower of extremely cold rain passes over the ferry in the middle of the river. I then wander around for a bit before taking the ferry back over to Starcross. The journey over the River Exe and back all seems a bit pointless but I like ferries!

river exe at starcorss

starcross ferry

heading back to starcross on the ferry

It's now time to get my lift back to Marldon. I head up the road, passing the Atmospheric Railway Inn, and head through the car park for the ferry and railway station.

atmospheric railway inn

beach collection

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • cyclamen
  • blackberries
  • red campion
  • beeches
  • oaks
  • bull rushes
  • fleabane
  • common knapweed
  • ragwort
  • curlew
  • oystercatchers
  • canada geese
  • red valerian
  • moles
  • little egrets

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked a miserly 9.07 miles today which amounts to 19920 steps. It is hard to get a more boring walk than this one on the South West Coast Path and it has been thundery and wet but I've rather enjoyed myself. The ferry across to Exmouth and back has helped as have all of the trains. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been a pathetic 131 metres or 429 feet. The elevation chart looks pathetic!!

MAp

teignmouth pier

teignmouth sea wall

river exe

starcross ferry