marldon to teignmouth via paignton and torquay

September 17, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 11TH september 2016

Considering that this year's weather has been rubbish, it looks like I'll have a pleasant day today. It's not going to break any temperature records but I'm not complaining!

Torbay low tide 07:10

Torbay high tide 13:38

I make an early start leaving our cottage at 07:30 and head back down through the two or so miles of the outskirts of Paignton to regain the coast path. It's just after 8 o'clock on a Sunday morning and there are already people drinking beer outside of the pubs. It's WAY too early, even for me!

I head out onto the red sandy beach and amble along the sand, passing the pier and the colourful beach huts. It is a glorious morning.

At the end of the esplanade I find that the tide is in so I head inland a little along a busy road. I walk along the beach at Preston Sands and then pass more colourful beach huts.

At the end of the beach huts I climb up a concrete slope and head across Hollicombe Head, cross a bridge over the railway line and enter Hollicombe Park.

I head along the main road into Torquay, passing Livermead Sands, and then come across some steps that lead down to Corbyn Head Beach where I find more colourful beach huts and a beach cafe.

I walk along the sea wall next to Torre Abbey, founded in 1196, which started life as a medieval monastery before its dissolution by Henry VIII. Nowadays it is a museum, art gallery and Ancient Scheduled Monument, before heading down onto Torre Abbey Sands. Did I mention that it is a glorious day?

I reach Torquay Harbour on the north shore of Tor Bay, which although now given over to marine leisure activities, still remains a commercial and busy little port.

I stop off in a park with a fountain under the shadow of the English Riviera Wheel.

I wander around the harbour and then head up Beacon Hill next to Living Coasts zoo and aquarium to reach the Imperial Hotel. I always seem to get lost in this suburban section of Torquay but today I'm going to follow the coast path perfectly.

Nope, I'm not! I go wrong straight away and head along the road instead of turning off somewhere. Who knows where. I didn't see any signs. I turn right into Daddyhole Road and regain the coast path at Daddyhole Plain, a limestone plateau 75 metres above the sea. I climb down steps, follow a tarmac path which takes me down to a road bend and climb down more steps to reach a beach cafe below the Osborne Hotel. I follow the coastal road above Meadfoot Beach before following a road uphill where a cyclist stops to chat with me about the south west coast path.

I manage to go wrong again and head along the road instead of going out to Thatcher Point. Mysterious footpaths lead out on to the road but I never see any entry points and the signs seem to be non-existant.

I've gone wrong here in the past as there are several footpaths that lead out to the coast but are dead ends due to landslips. This time though I spot a sign on the other side of the road which means I should have come down on the other side of the road along a hidden footpath. This coast path sign is clearly pointing to the right towards Anstey's Cove and along Bishops Walk. I can't possibly go wrong!

I head up the lane and follow a scabby, overgrown path in the wrong direction and which doesn't feel right. It isn't and the path just circles back around and dumps me back out on the road where I've just come from.

I return to puzzle over the sign again and somebody joins me who is also walking to Teignmouth and is as lost as me. I head back down the lane and notice a path to the left which I thought was just an entryway into the houses here but does turn out to be the coast path. I also come across a sign pointing down here which I completely missed first time around. Success!

I follow the woodland path which must be Bishops Walk and after a while come across a post which must be marking the coast path but the signs have fallen off so I've no idea which direction to go. Needless to say I choose the wrong one and have to retrace my steps. I continue along Bishops Walk and come across a car park.

I'm sure I've gone wrong here before but can't remember which route I took. Sure enough I take the wrong route again and head down steps towards Anstey's Cove. The cove turns out to be a dead end due to landslips but there is a cafe down here.

I retrace my steps and have a sudden feeling of deja vu as I recall retracing my steps here four years ago. I head along the road before coming across a signpost marked 'To Babbacombe & St Marychurch over the downs' where I climb up steps on a wooded slope and I'm now back up on the cliff tops.

I walk along the grassy cliffs and then across Babbacombe Cricket Club. It is now properly hot so I go in search of an ice lolly.

I suck on my ice lolly while I follow signs to Babbacombe Downs, the highest clifftop promenade in England. I'm sure I've come along Oddicombe Beach at the bottom of the cliffs in the past. Must have gone wrong again! I reach Babbacombe Cliff Railway, built in 1926 to shuttle tourists to and from the beach.

I turn right at a coast path sign and follow the road for a bit. I'm completely lost again before following a sign which promises to rejoin the coast path but which takes me along another scabby path and dumps me back out on the road again.

I rejoin the coast path as it continues through woods next to Torquay Golf Club. More coast path signs lead me to the beach access road at Watcombe Beach, surrounded by cliffs and wooded hillsides. A steep path leads down to the beach but I'm getting tired now so I continue through the woods to Maidencombe.

I come across a swallowtail caterpillar.

There's a coast path sign at Maidencombe but it's only pointing in one direction. Back from where I came from. My fellow lost walker joins me to puzzle over the sign! He must be more lost than me as the last time I saw him he was walking faster than me and yet somehow I've managed to overtake him.

I walk through the car park and detour a little to reach the Thatched Tavern at Maidencombe. Guess what! The pub has a thatched roof!!

I rejoin the coast path where it turns right before reaching the pub.

I head along a track marked for Shaldon. The path continues through fields and woods close to the cliff top and then ascends and descends several times before reaching the road above Labrador Bay. I have magnificent views back where I've been walking.

I descend steeply down a grassy slope where I have lovely views over Teignmouth and then follow the path alongside Shaldon Approach Golf before I climb down some steps and then follow a track. I climb up into Ness Woodland and then pass the Ness, which has lovely views over Shaldon and Teignmouth.

A teeny coastal road takes me to the village of Shaldon. The coast path runs along the busy Shaldon Bridge over the River Teign to Teignmouth but there's also a ferry in front of the Ferry Boat Inn which has been running since the 13th century, so I catch this today which drops me on Teignmouth back beach next to the lifeboat station and costs me £1.50.

That's my walking done for the day so I turn left in to town and head for the Waitrose car park where my lift back to our cottage awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

sunflowers
seagulls
buzzards
wisteria
buddleia
red admiral butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
a small copper butterfly

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 20.1 miles today which amounts to 45344 steps. Ouch again! It has been a lovely day's walking on the South West Coast Path in beautiful weather and I haven't really minded getting continually lost. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 825 metres or 2706 feet.

MAP

dartmouth to marldon via brixham and paignton

September 17, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 10TH september 2016

It looks like it will be a filthy start to the day but if I'm patient the weather should improve throughout the day and I should have some decent walking conditions later on.

Paignton high tide 12:15

Paignton low tide 18:33

We start the first day of Autumn coast path walking by taking the car over the River Dart on the Higher Ferry and then drive into Dartmouth and park up. It's a filthy start to the day and chucking it down so I hang around in the car for a bit hoping the rain will ease off. It doesn't so I don my waterproofs and head off.

I head through the lower part of Dartmouth, not particularly enjoying the manky weather.

I cross back over the River Dart to Kingswear using the lower ferry which costs me £1.50. On reaching Kingswear I pass under an arch next to the post office and then climb up Alma Steps.

I take one final look back over to Dartmouth and then set off for Brixham.

I follow a minor road out of the village and then follow a private road towards Kingswear Court. I enter Warren Woods and zig zag down a slope, cross over a stream and then zig zag up the other side of the valley.

I now have lovely views back over to Dartmouth Castle on the other side of the river mouth. At least they would be lovely if it wasn't still raining heavily!

I reach Brownstone Battery at Inner Froward Point, built in 1940 to protect the Dart estuary and Slapton and Blackpool Sands from enemy invasion. The battery consists of two gun positions and each would have been armed with six inch guns. The gun emplacements remain to this day as do the two magazines that served the guns. Below the gun emplacements are two searchlight positions which would have scanned the sea for enemy ships.

The path zig zags up and down the cliffs towards Outer Froward Point where, out to sea, can be seen Shooter Rock, Shag Stone and Mew Stone. I continue meandering along the coast path passing Old Mill Bay, Kelly's Cove and Pudcombe Cove. On the way I come across some friendly ponies who just stand around blocking the coast path.

Eventually a fellow walker turns up and barges through the ponies. I follow in his footsteps.

I come across the rear entrance of Coleton Fishacre which used to be infested with rhododendrons (presumably ponticum) but these appear to have been grubbed up now leaving hydrangeas all around.

The weather is finally brightening up and I can see some bits of blue sky. I come across a sign telling me that Man Sands is two and a quarter miles away.

blue sky! man sands two and a quarter miles away

I come across an apple tree laden with apples and presumably grown from a discarded core before rounding Scabbacombe Head where the skies are now decidedly blue. I pass another pony munching on the bracken.

blue skies over scabbacombe and man sands

A steep, slippery and muddy descent leads me down to Scabbacombe Sands. The edge of the stream near the top of the beach smells of mint. The beach is deserted.

I head along the cliffs high above Long Sands and round Crabrock Point, passing Crabrock Point Coastguard Cottage, to reach Man Sands where I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach.

It is a steep climb up onto Southdown Cliff where I pass cows making an awful racket.

I reach Sharkham Point and then head around St Mary's Bay, passing below the holiday village. I head down some scabby steps where the cliffs are infested with japanese knotweed and head out onto St Mary's Bay Beach. There are a few dog walkers on the beach.

It is now a short walk to Berry Head, a National Nature Reserve, where I amble along the meandering paths.

I join a road which passes the Berry Head Hotel and walk through Shoalstone Car Park. It is now a pleasant waterfront walk leading me into Brixham where I pass above the art deco Shoalstone Sea Water Pool. A harbourside walk from the breakwater takes me to the centre of the town where a statue of William Prince of Orange, who landed here on the 5th of November 1688, stands at the head of the harbour.

“The Liberties of England and The Protestant Religion I Will Maintain”

Brixham is heaving with people on this now pleasant Saturday afternoon, probably not helped by the fact that Fishstock Brixham seafood and music festival is taking place today.

I go in search of an ice lolly to cool me down and then pass the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe and then pass Brixham Fish Market, where Fishstock is in full swing, before heading out of Brixham at Oxen Cove next to what was once AstraZeneca's Brixham Environmental Laboratory but which was donated to Plymouth University in 2013.

I climb up concrete steps to reach Battery Gardens and pass the Brixham Battery Heritage Centre. I round Fishcombe Cove and a steep climb out of the cove awaits.

I walk around the beach at Churston Cove and a woodland path takes me past Churston Golf Club.

I walk across the shingly beach at Elberry Cove, which is surprisingly busy, before rounding Churston Point to reach the delightful Broadsands, you guessed it, a broad sandy beach flanked by colourful beach huts.

I enjoy the sandy beach here before walking past the colourful beach huts and exit at the far end of the beach, passing beneath the railway viaduct.

I then follow the railway line towards Goodrington Sands and the Paignton to Kingswear steam train passes me, heading in the opposite direction. I head along the beach at Goodrington Sands, passing the colourful beach huts and head past the Inn on the Quay. The emptying pints on the tables look very inviting.

I follow paths over Roundham Head and walk through Roundham Gardens where I have lovely views back over Goodrington Sands.

Paignton is now laid out in front of me.

I pass Paignton's tiny harbour and walk along the esplanade to reach the pier where I head inland in search of a much needed ice lolly. It has been a hot end to the day.

I head along the busy Paignton streets full of amusement arcades and it's now time to finish my walk by heading inland along the busy main road to reach the village of Marldon, on the outskirts of Paignton, where our holiday cottage for the week resides.

Unbelieveably, although I've been climbing up and down cliffs all day long, the long ascent out of Paignton to Marldon proves to be the steepest ascent of the day!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

hydrangeas
agapanthus
fig trees
echiums
blackberries
gorse
bracken
buzzards
honeysuckle
oxeye daisies
black sheep
mint
cows
red campion
red admiral butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
a comma butterfly
stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 22.6 miles today which amounts to 50823 steps. Ouch! It has been a lovely day's walking on the South West Coast Path, despite a manky start to the day. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 1161 metres or 3809 feet.

MAP

portwrinkle to plymouth

June 12, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

wednesday, 8TH june 2016

It looks like I'm in for a fourth day of great walking weather with sun forecast for all day long, light winds and it'll probably be a hot day yet again. What's not to like?!

Fowey high tide 08:46

Fowey low tide 15:00

I've no idea why Plymouth isn't showing up in my tide times app.

I start the day back in the village of Portwrinkle where there are some lovely flowerbeds so I take a few photographs.

Before I set off I wander down the slipway and on to Finnygook Beach where I enjoy the deserted, sandy beach.

It's time to set off so I head along the road to leave Portwrinkle and then head onto the coast path which goes past the Whitsand Bay Hotel, and wends its way across the Whitsand Bay Golf Club and towards Tregantle Fort. Skylarks are already singing their hearts out.

I thought it was supposed to be firing day today but there aren't any flying flags and the gate heading into Tregantle Fort isn't locked so I go through the gate and follow the coast path signs through the fort.

I manage to walk my way all through the fort without getting rained on by shells!

I've never visited Tregantle Beach before but I'm in no hurry so I divert down to the beach and enjoy the fine sand. Although it's still early there are a couple of other people on the beach enjoying the early morning sun.

I retrace my steps and an overgrown path continues next to the road to Sharrow Point and then up towards the holiday cabins at Freathy and Whitsand Bay Holiday Park. The path used to follow a circuitous route through the cabins clinging to the cliff but a permanent diversion seems to be in place along the road at the top of the cliff.

Whitsand Bay Beach, a series of beaches stretching to around four miles, can be found here but the tide is too far in to see much of the sandy beach today. The views high above the beach are fantastic though, if a little hazy.

A narrow, fiddly, overgrown path goes up and down through cabins before a better path leads me on to Rame Head.

The path then circles around Rame Head with a view to St Michael's Chapel on the headland. Also visible is the National Coastwatch Rame Head Station. The coast path is about to change direction and head towards Plymouth so I am about to lose my view back over to Looe, Seaton, Downderry and Portwrinkle.

The path descends to Penlee Point where I pass families of ponies feeding on the vegetation.

I pass a sign which tells me all about the wreck of The Coronation in 1691 and an easy path takes me through woods before reaching the village of Cawsand.

I head on down to the beach and waste some time enjoying the sand and shingle.

It is proper hot now so on leaving the beach I head to the Shop in the Square and grab an orange Fruit Shoot ice lolly which I stick in my side pocket ready for when I leave Kingsand.

I pass the Cross Keys Inn on The Square at Cawsand and the path leads to the adjoining village of Kingsand, passing the Halfway House Inn. Kingsand has another small sand and shingle beach so I drop down to enjoy it.

The Devonport Inn, on The Cleave, can be found a bit further on from the beach but the coast path ducks in behind the beach before the pub is reached. I've missed the sign that points through the village before, but not today! I'm not going to make the mistake of walking past the pub and then failing to find any coast path signs ever again.

I climb up through the village passing The Rising Sun pub.

On leaving Kingsand the path enters the Mount Edgcumbe Country Park.

I fish my ice lolly out from my pocket and greedily suck on it as I walk along an easy path through the park. I pass rhododendrons and wild flowers as I walk along the path.

A MASSIVE sign points to the left through a gate and I've always gone wrong here in the past which has led to a long and tortuous walk through woodland with an almost complete lack of signs. I concentrate and find a teeny sign immediately pointing to the right which is completely dwarfed by the left pointing sign.

Yes! I've finally got this section of the path correct and an uneventful path leads through woods with enough coast path signs to let me know that I'm going in the right direction.

I leave the woods next to Milton's Temple, which is covered in scaffolding, and next to a pond full of friendly ducks and geese.

I leave the park to reach the Edgcumbe Arms which is heaving with people and the slipway for the Cremyll ferry. There are Germans everywhere!

The next ferry is at 13:30 so I've just got time to grab a blackcurrant and apple Fruit Shoot ice lolly from a little shop on the edge of the park which gets thirstily devoured

The ferry turns up to take me across to Plymouth and immediately fills up with masses of Germans. The fare is £1.50. Eight minutes later I step off the ferry at Admirals Hard, Stonehouse, having moved over from Cornwall to Devon.

I've never walked through Plymouth before, finding it too big, brash and noisy for my liking and prefer to rejoin the coast path over the other side of the harbour but today I'm going to walk a little bit in to Plymouth.

A sign tells me that Jenny Cliff is 10 miles away. Maybe one day I'll return to Plymouth to do the 10 mile walk through it. I check the train times when I get home but it seems to take forever to get from Bristol to Plymouth so who knows.

I immediately come across a pub called The Vine, the first pub in Devon.

I wander along Cremyl Street following handily placed coast path signs on lamp posts and have occasional views of the marina. I pass the Victualling Office Tavern (the doors are closed and it's very quiet but it does look like it might be open) and The Butcher's Arms (which looks run down and closed for business) before entering the Royal William Yard.

It's rather pleasant around here and there are plenty of places to eat and drink. I wander around the yard and climb a staircase designed by Gillespie Yunnie Architects, linking Royal William Yard to the public park above. The staircase is dedicated to the memory of Eric Wallis who was secretary of the South West Coast Path Association for 24 years.

I head off through Devil's Point Park and then take to the streets which lead me towards the centre of Plymouth passing the Royal Marine Barracks on the way.

It's very noisy but I eventually reach Boston Tea Party on Vauxhall Street where my walking for the day, as well as the week, ends. It's now time to catch the park and ride bus back to Home Park where the car awaits to take me back to our holiday cottage.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

sea thrift
foxgloves
skylarks
red campion
buttercups
small tortoiseshells
bracken
gorse
pheasants
swifts
chaffinches
chiffchaffs
birds-foot trefoil
goldfinches
ponies
speckled wood butterflies
elderflower
sweet chestnuts
black caps

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 17.5 miles today which amounts to 37672 steps. It has been a lovely day's walking on the South West Coast Path, has been hot and there have only been light breezes. On top of that, for the fourth day in a row I've avoided being stung by stinging nettles. Eight out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 484.50 metres or 1589 feet.

video

portwrinkle to plymouth from Mark Seymour on Vimeo.

map

polperro to portwrinkle

June 12, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 7th june 2016

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. This is getting monotonous. Woop! Those temperatures don't look too hot though.

Fowey high tide 08:00

Fowey low tide 14:18

It's my birthday today so what better way to spend it than walking the charming walk from Polperro to Portwrinkle.

“happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me”

I start the day back at the car park above Polperro and wander down through the village back to the harbour.

Along the way I pass The Ship Inn and The Three Pilchards, the oldest pub in Polperro.

I explore around the harbour for a while but the sun is out and the skies are blue. It's time to get going.

polperro

I turn on to the coast path next to the House on the Props.

The path goes along The Warren and I have fine views back over the harbour before climbing back up on the cliffs towards Downend Point.

The path is smothered in wild flowers so I amble along taking photographs.

The path should round Downend Point and pass a granite war memorial but a diversion is in place and I head inland next to a field of wheat. I join a tiny road which takes me steeply down towards Talland Bay where I have misty views.

I come across a couple of tame rabbits. They eye me up and then continue munching on the grass. I continue along the path and drop down to Talland Bay where I enjoy the deserted beaches.

Talland Bay has two sand and shingle beaches - Talland Sand and Rotterdam Beach. The Talland Bay Beach Cafe is passed followed by the Smuggler's Rest Cafe. The low cliffs here are covered in dreaded Japanese Knotweed.

The path reaches Hendersick and then passes the Hore Stone, just offshore, and there is a misty view over Portnadler Bay to St George's Island, sometimes known as Looe Island. The island is now managed by the Cornwal Wildlife Trust.

The path passes by Samphire Beach and Wallace Beach where I come across some lovely flower borders.

The path continues around Hannafore Point and I come across loads of painted lady butterflies feeding on sea thrift and I manage to photograph one or two of them.

Hannafore Beach can be found here which is mostly rocky but does contain some sand and shingle. Not today though as the tide is too far in. I do have fine views over to Looe though.

The path continues down a road and then drops down to the harbourside at Looe.

You can catch a ferry over from West Looe to East Looe allegedly but I've never seen it. Instead, I head along the harbourside where I pass a bronze statue of Nelson, a distinctive one eyed scarred bull grey seal who was a familiar sight in the harbours of South Cornwall for over 25 years.

I continue along the harbourside and use the roadbridge to cross the River Looe where I have lovely views back along the harbour, on the way passing the Harbour Moon Inn.

I continue walking down the harbourside at East Looe, passing the Ship Inn and The Bullers Arms and take one last look at the harbour before climbing out of Looe high above East Looe Beach, sitting quite literally in front of the old town.

The path climbs steeply out of Looe and passes Chough Rock - I don't see any Choughs. I come across more japanese knotweed as I walk down the slipway to reach Plaidy Beach, a small, grey sand beach popular with dog walkers.

A steep path goes upwards before heading back down to Millendreath Beach, a sandy beach with numerous rock pools to explore at low tide. The beach is just starting to get busy with a few families arriving as I explore the beach.

Due to a series of landslips the coast path has been re-routed but it seems to be much more open than I recall from my last visit as I seem to remember trudging along roads for a few miles.

The path climbs up Bodigga Cliff and then goes through woods for a while. The shady path is very welcome on what has now become a hot day. The path rejoins the road where I pass by the Monkey Sanctuary.

I continue along a minor road festooned with flowers for a little bit and then am pleasantly surprised to see a coast path sign pointing back on to the cliffs at Struddicks. I head through fields to re-join the coast path and it's a thoroughly pleasant walk.

The path drops back down to the road above Seaton but it's not very far down and I soon have fine views over Seaton.

The beach at Seaton is a spacious grey sand beach popular with families and you can find the Seaton Beach Cafe and The Smugglers Inn here.

I amble along Seaton Beach and the tide is far enough out for me to continue along Downderry Beach, a sheltered beach made of grey sand and shingle with rock pools at low tide.

The wreck of ‘Gypsy’, the sister ship to the ‘Cutty Sark,’ is hidden under a kelp bed not far from the shore line. I passed underneath the Inn on the Shore at the far end of Downderry Beach.

After leaving Downderry the path passes The Church of St Nicolas and Downderry Lodge and climbs up to Battern Cliffs. The path here is narrow, overgrown and full of nettles so I have to concentrate on walking rather than looking at the views.

The path improves and the views are magnificent, if a little hazy.

I continue along the cliff tops and have lovely views over Portwrinkle.

The path reaches the village of Portwrinkle passing the tiny harbour. There are two sand and shingle beaches here with numerous rock pools.

It's time for a couple more flower photographs and then my walking is done for the day and it's time to get my lift back to our home from home for the week.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

agapanthus
gladioli
red campion
creeping broomrape
roses
fuchsias
red valerian
white valerian
herb robert
elderflower
pheasants
skylarks
field poppies
rabbits
chiffchaffs
painted lady butterflies
japanese knotweed
oystercatchers
blue tits
wrens
a bronze seal
MONKEYS!!
scots pine
red admirals
the last of the bluebells

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15 miles today which amounts to 33850 steps. It has been sunny and hot and a thoroughly pleasant day's walking. For a third day on the trot I haven't been stung by stinging nettles. What better way to spend a birthday? Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 762.60 metres or 2501 feet.

video

polperro to portwrinkle from Mark Seymour on Vimeo.

map

polmear to polperro

June 12, 2016 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SUNDAY, 5TH june 2016

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Temperatures aren't going to be particularly high so should make for perfect walking weather.

Par Sands high tide 06:19

Par Sands low tide 12:46

I start the day back at the car park behind the sand dunes at Par Sands and head out onto the murky beach.

I head inland slightly to the Ship Inn at Polmear where the coast path heads behind the pub and up back onto the low cliff tops and I have murky views back over Par Sands.

I immediately come across my first orchids of the week, a small patch of (not so) early purple orchids.

I head onwards towards the harbour at Polkerris and I have lovely views over the harbour. I can hear people swimming in the sea.

I drop down to the beach, passing Sams on the Beach based in the old Polkerris lifeboat station. Opposite is the Rashleigh Inn where thirsty walkers can stop for a nice pint. It's way too early for me though and the pub's not open anyway. A sandy, crescent shaped, south west facing beach can be found here and there are indeed a couple of people swimming in the sea.

I enjoy wandering along the beach before heading back to the coast path where I pass through woods smelling of garlic before heading around Gribbin Head. I enjoy the wild flowers here which are looking at their best.

I pass below the 84 foot red and white Gribbin daymark, erected in 1832, enabling sailors to pinpoint the approach to Fowey's harbour, and head on down the slopes. Several joggers pass me on the slopes. The slopes are covered in wild flowers.

The path descends to the south facing beach at Polridmouth Cove, which actually consists of two beaches. The first beach is packed with a father, son and dog playing on the beach but the second beach is completely deserted, so I wander along the beach for a bit, enjoying the solitude.

I head up onto Lankelly Cliff and Southground Cliffs. I pass Coombe Haven which is also completely deserted.

The sun is starting to break through the mist and it's starting to get rather hot. I have lovely, if misty views, over to Polruan.

I continue to Penventinue Cove passing the remains of St Catherine's Castle, one of a pair of small artillery forts built by Henry VIII in the 1530s to defend Fowey Harbour.

I now have lovely views over to Fowey.

I continue along the coast path and arrive at Readymoney Cove Beach, a small, sheltered sandy beach. It's a little busier here with a few people enjoying the beach.

I head along Readymoney Road where I take up with local dog walkers and then head along the Esplanade which takes me on to Fowey. I have more lovely views over to Polruan.

The ferry crosses the river above the centre of Fowey at Whitehouse slipway so I see very little of Fowey. I wait for my ferry crossing on the slipway and catch the Lady Jean ferry over to Polruan.

The ferry crossing takes five minutes, I guess, and costs me the princely sum of £2. I depart the ferry at Polruan and wait for my fellow passengers to disperse so that I can enjoy the fine views along the River Fowey.

After crossing the River Fowey a small, sandy beach can be found at Polruan Quay unless the tide is in, which it isn't today.

I continue on my walk at the Lugger Inn on The Quay at Polruan before passing Polruan's second pub the Russell Inn. Although it is still relatively early, both pubs seem to be open but it's time for some serious walking.

I climb out of Polruan and enjoy the lovely views over the village.

The path climbs to reach the National Coastwatch Station where I have some magnificent final views back over the Fowey estuary. It is starting to get very hot now.

I continue along the coast path towards Lantic Bay and ignore the coast path signs and, instead, head down the steep climb to the beach, passing foxgloves enjoying the view over the beach.

A white sand and shingle beach is found at Lantic Bay, and is one of the finest beaches on the South West Coast Path. Due to its isolation it is normally very quiet but there are quite a few people on it today.

lantic bay

On leaving the beach the path heads towards Pencarrow Head where I have some final magnificent views back over Lantic Bay.

I enjoy more wild flowers on the rugged coast.

The path becomes a roller-coaster ride passing over Watch House Cove, Palace Cove and Sandheap Point before dropping steeply into West Combe and over a footbridge above a waterfall. The coast path turns to the left but I head to the right instead to gain access to the lovely Lansallos Beach.

The beach is a small, sheltered sand and shingle beach and, as far as I know, is in the middle of nowhere but for some reason is heaving with people!. It's not even marked on my Ordnance Survey map.

I enjoy the beach for a while but it's time to tackle the tough last section of coast to Polperro.

Back on the coast path I pass a group of ponies who seem to have descended on a family having lunch.

More footbridges are encountered before passing an obelisk daymark.

The going around here is tough and I just seem to go up and down cliffs. I pass by Broad Cove, Shag Rock, West Penslake Cove, Penslake Cove, Blackybale Point, Colors Cove and Nealand Point and I have fine views over towards Polperro although the village is out of view, tucked away behind its harbour.

Chapel Cliff is reached and then I come across a rocky patch, finally with fine views over Polperro's harbour.

The path climbs down to the village where steps take me down to the harbour. A small, sandy beach can be found here just outside of the harbour wall, only available at low tide but the harbour is teeming with people so I head back past the Blue Peter Inn and by the fish landing area where a fisherman is busily shucking scallops.

At the head of the harbour I head up the village near to the House on the Props.

I finish the day by wandering up through the rather busy village to the car park at the top of the village. On the way I stop off to thirstily suck on an orange Calippo ice lolly. Utter bliss! It has been a hot, hot end to the day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

foxgloves
early purple orchids
goldfinches
sheep
ribwort plantain
house martins
wild garlic
red campion
chiffchaffs
skylarks
a heron
red admirals
peacock butterflies
oystercatchers
stonechats

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.6 miles today which amounts to 36613 steps. It has been magnificent walking today in what turned out to be very hot weather. Doesn't get much better than this. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 737.10 metres or 2418 feet.

video

polmear to polperro from Mark Seymour on Vimeo.