salcombe to torcross

south west coast path

wednesday, 10th may 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good although I don't like the look of those easterly winds. It could feel a bit cold today.

Salcombe high tide 06:32 and 18:57

Salcombe low tide 12:42

I start the day back in Salcombe and  walk around to the Ferry Inn (@TFISalcombe) and climb down to the jetty where I catch the 08:30 ferry over from Salcombe to East Portlemouth. There's only one other passenger at this time of the morning. The ferry fare is £1.60.

catching the ferry

catching the ferry

I come ashore at the Venus Cafe, turn right and immediately come across a clump of stumpy echiums.

stumpy echiums

stumpy echiums

I follow a minor road to reach Mill Bay, where I enjoy fine views back across to Salcombe. A mass of sand from the beach has blown onto the road. The road verges are covered in wildflowers. I come across masses of a bell like plant I don't recognize. I search in my wildflower book when I get back to the cottage but I don't find it in there. It must be the three-cornered garlic (allium triquetrum) though and I come across it throughout my walk today.

mill bay

mill bay

I come across audio clip point B on the East Portlemouth to Gara Rock walk.

I scan the QR code back at our cottage and it does indeed work. I've found other audio clips of the East Portlemouth to Gara Rock Walk on the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website.

I walk along the cliffs along Portlemouth Down towards Gara Rock. There are bluebells everywhere! 

bluebells everywhere!

bluebells everywhere!

I find audio clip point C and then come across a plaque commemorating the centenary of the Salcombe lifeboat disaster, when the RNLI lifeboat William and Emma capsized off Salcombe Bar with the loss of thirteen crew on the 27th of October 1916. I then come across audio clip point D.

salcombe lifeboat disaster

salcombe lifeboat disaster

I have lovely views ahead of me towards Gara Rock and Gammon Head.

views ahead

views ahead

I come across my first green hairstreak of the year but it doesn't seem to have the dotted, broken white line along the hindwing.

green hairstreak

green hairstreak

The paths are covered in foxgloves just coming into flower. I love foxgloves!

I come across stonechats clacking away in the gorse.

stonechats

stonechats

I come across common bird's-foot trefoil, a scabious of some kind and something I don't recognize. I've come across it at home as well but it doesn't seem to feature in my wildflower book.

I spot a beach with some people on it. I'm pretty certain I thought that beach was inaccessible but it clearly isn't.

beach with people

beach with people

Next to a crumbling ruin I find the path down to the beach where a family were enjoying the beach on their own until my appearance. They have a chocolate labrador who starts to bark at me but quietens down and comes over to say hello once I remove my bag with its sticky out walking pole. I enjoy the beach for a while then retrace my steps back up to the crumbling ruin.

The beach doesn't seem to be marked on my map but is known as Seacombe Sand and a very nice place it is.

Next to the crumbling ruin I cross a footbridge and enter West Prawle, Higher House and Borough farms and there are foxgloves and spurges everywhere. They look like wood spurges to me but it's not particularly woody.

I continue along Deckler's Cliff passing Deckler's Island, Shag Rock and Bullock Cove.

I spot another lovely looking beach, this time at Venerick's Cove. I know it's accessible as I've just seen someone down there. I scramble down myself but I don't quite make it to the beach as my heavy rucksack is making things a little unsafe. 

I scramble back up and come across more of what appears to be bloody crane's-bill.

bloody crane's-bill

bloody crane's-bill

bloody crane's-bill

bloody crane's-bill

I continue along the coast path past Pig's Nose, Ham Stone and Bull Rock. I head out on to Gammon Head, given to the National Trust by the Rose family on the 5th of January 1965.

The view over Gammon Head is magnificent.

view over gammon head

view over gammon head

I come across yet another lovely beach, this time at Maceley Cove. Someone is sat on the beach reading and has scrawled a message in the sand. It is a very steep descent to the beach but my rucksack makes the decision not to descend easy. I'll have to come back another day with a lighter pack.

all is love

all is love

maceley cove

maceley cove

I come across two fishermen fishing from the rocks before the path zig zags to reach Prawle Point National Coastwatch Station.

prawle point national coastwatch station

prawle point national coastwatch station

I got completely lost the last time I was here so I concentrate but I needn't have bothered as the path is easy to follow and properly marked. I've no idea how I managed to get lost last time. I have lovely views over towards Start Point before coming across a herd of friendly cows blocking the coast path. I continue along the path which takes me past Cobstone Cove, Western Cove, Landing Cove and Wollow Cove.

view to start point

view to start point

friendly cows blocking the coast path

friendly cows blocking the coast path

The path verges are full of wildflowers so I amble along taking photographs. It's extremely windy and there's no shelter from the cold, easterly wind.

I round Langerstone Point and pass Sharper's Cove and Horseley Cove where a field trip appears to be taking place on the rocky beach.

field trip

field trip

The path passes in front of Maelcombe House and crosses Woodcombe Point, covered in wildflowers and I also come across another clump of early purple orchids.

maelcombe house

maelcombe house

I reach Lannacombe Beach and bump into a fellow coast path walker who I've come across several times over the last two days.

lannacombe beach

lannacombe beach

I leave the beach and enter Down Farm where I come across a lone iris looking out to sea.

lone iris looking out to sea

lone iris looking out to sea

I pass Limpet Cove where I come across a blue butterfly feeding on a bluebell (which I assume is a holly blue) and another green hairstreak, this time with the much more familiar broken, dotted white markings on the hindwing.

holly blue butterfly

holly blue butterfly

green hairstreak butterfly

green hairstreak butterfly

I pass Great Mattiscombe Sand which I must visit one day as it looks lovely and out to sea are Frenchman's Rock, Barler Rock, Little Sleaden Rock and Great Sleaden Rock. I head round Start Point and pass the Start Point Lighthouse.

great mattiscombe sand

great mattiscombe sand

start point lighthouse

start point lighthouse

I was hoping for some respite from the wind on rounding Start Point but, nope, instead of blasting straight into my face it's now blasting into my side. I come across a red admiral resting on nettles but I've got completely the wrong lens on my camera. Fortunately there's enough resolution in the photo to do a bit of judicial cropping which I rarely do.

red admiral butterfly

red admiral butterfly

I follow the path down a steep slope to reach Hallsands. In May 2012, an access road, viewing platform and two houses were affected by a 200 tonne landslide.

hallsands

hallsands

The path continues to Greenstraight Beach and then on to Tinsey Head before dropping down to Beesands. I walk along the road at Beesands to reach the Cricket Inn (@TheCricketInn), birthplace of the Rolling Stones, before continuing on my way past St Andrew's Church.

beesands

beesands

I wander along the beach at Beesands before heading off towards my destination for the day, Torcross.

beesands beach

beesands beach

I climb up the wooded slopes of the cliff where I come across an orange tip butterfly (that makes four species photographed today - not bad) and another clump of early purple orchids and I take one last time this week to enjoy the wildflowers.

orange tip butterfly

orange tip butterfly

A short walk takes me to Torcross where I climb down steps, admiring the view across Slapton Sands, to reach the promenade and the end of my walk. I walk past the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) and the Sherman tank, honouring the memory of servicemen, and head in to the car park where my lift awaits.

torcross and slapton sands

torcross and slapton sands

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • echiums
  • red campion
  • chiffchaffs
  • bugle
  • alexanders
  • cow parsley
  • lords and ladies
  • herb robert
  • three-cornered garlic
  • celandines
  • bluebells
  • primroses
  • cormorants
  • wall butterflies
  • stonechats
  • green hairstreaks
  • bladder campion
  • foxgloves
  • common bird's-foot trefoil
  • a small copper butterfly
  • bloody crane's-bill
  • wild carrot
  • skylarks
  • swifts
  • ribwort plantain
  • a lonely iris
  • oystercatchers
  • a holly blue butterfly
  • an orange tip butterfly
  • a red admiral butterfly
  • early purple orchids

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.1 miles today which amounts to 32660 steps. It has been a cold day tackling biting easterly winds in just a t-shirt and shorts but the walking has been lovely. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 215 metres or 705 feet.

MAP

green hairstreak

green hairstreak

orange tip

orange tip

holly blue

holly blue

red admiral

red admiral

beach collection

beach collection

aveton gifford to salcombe

south west coast path

tuesday, 9th may 2017

It looks like I'm going to have nice weather today although it doesn't look like it's going to be particularly warm.

Salcombe high tide 05:52 and 18:21

Salcombe low tide 12:04

I start the day back at Aveton Gifford and follow the main road over the river before following a lane taking me away from Aveton Gifford where I immediately come across a cheerful patch of red hot pokers.

I pass South Efford Marsh, a nature reserve run by Devon Wildlife Trust, one of South Devon's premier bird watching places.

A steep climb takes me up to Higher Stadbury and I admire the wildflowers as I climb. The path verges here are covered in wild garlic.

I come across a field full of orchids but they are tantalisingly out of reach behind a barbed wire fence. A bit further on though I come across a patch of early purple orchids next to the footpath.

I cross Staddicombe Creek over a footbridge and then enter Staddicombe Wood. Again there's wild garlic everywhere.

wild garlic

wild garlic

As I leave the woods full of pheasant squawks and crows caws I get my first proper glimpse of the river.

glimpse of the river avon

glimpse of the river avon

I come across another Avon Estuary Walk sign for an audio clip. I appear to have missed B, C and D either yesterday or today but I wasn't particularly looking out for them.

I scan the QR code back at our cottage and it does indeed work. I've found other audio clips of the Avon Estuary Walk on the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website.

It's now a case of following more fields above the river and I have magnificent views over the river.

river view

river view

I join the road which takes me into Bantham village, passing the Sloop Inn. As I head down the road through Bantham swifts are screeching above me. What a lovely sound they make! The last time I was here a huge chunk of the village was up for sale but it has now been sold for £11.5 million and plans are in place for some unpopular developments.

sloop inn

sloop inn

bantham village

bantham village

 I head through the car park and explore sandy Bantham Beach where I share the beach with one other person. There are, however, a load of surfers and paddleboarders out in the sea. 

I head back to the car park before regaining the coast path proper where there are fine views back along the coast to Burgh Island but I head in the other direction along the edge of Thurlestone Golf Course

view over bantham beach

view over bantham beach

I come across big black beetles on the golf course and stonechats are clacking all around me in the scrubby vegetation. I take in more of the wildflowers on the golf course and there are massive clumps of sea thrift and kidney vetch clinging to the low cliffs.

I wander across Thurlestone Beach where I come across a golf ball lodged in the sand and then Leas Foot Sand before reaching South Milton Sands. Thurlestone Rock can be seen out at sea.

thurlestone beach

thurlestone beach

leas foot sand

leas foot sand

south milton sands

south milton sands

The last time I was here there was a diversion inland but the coast path is back fully open now and on leaving South Milton Sands I head out onto the cliffs along what appears to be a new section of the coast path past Beacon Point and Mouthwell Point into Outer Hope. Even the diversion through Outer Hope is no longer needed and it is now a straight drop into the village.

approaching outer hope

approaching outer hope

Easy walking takes me down to the Hope and Anchor Inn. I have lovely views over Hope Cove which consists of Outer Hope Beach and Inner Hope Beach. 

hope and anchor inn

hope and anchor inn

outer hope beach

outer hope beach

I follow the road and a path through the village to reach Inner Hope where I come across a friendly robin perched on a wire. He (possibly she) doesn't mind my presence in the slightest. I wander down onto the beach and explore for a bit before it's time to head for Salcombe.

inner hope beach

inner hope beach

I climb some steps out of Inner Hope and follow a woodland path out on to the open slopes leading to Bolt Tail where I enjoy the views across Hope Cove.

view back over hope cove

view back over hope cove

I walk around the headland passing Yeovil Rock, Wolf Rock, China Rock and Graystone Ledge and then climb Bolberry Down at 395 feet. Skylarks are everywhere singing their hearts out. The path continues before dropping steeply from Cathole Cliff into a valley where a footbridge crosses Soar Mill Cove.

soar mill cove

soar mill cove

I walk along The Warren where I enjoy the views back to Bolt Tail. 

view back to bolt tail

view back to bolt tail

I pause to admire the views here before continuing along the path, passing Little Mew Stone and Mew Stone. I enjoy all of the wildflowers next to the coast path.

On the way to Bolt Head I come across a flock of friendly sheep with their lambs and suddenly there are hordes of people about (well, quite a few anyway). I'm not quite sure why as I'm still a long way from civilization so maybe there's a car park close by.

sheep

sheep

As I round Bolt Head I come across ponies but I'm not sure which type. I now have lovely views across Starehole Bay.

overlooking starehole bay

overlooking starehole bay

I cross a stream using a stone slab to reach Starehole Bay and climb a steep slope where I come across crane's-bills, probably bloody crane's-bill.

bloody crane's-bill

bloody crane's-bill

 I climb some stone steps to reach Sharp Tor with some fine views towards Salcombe.

view over salcombe

view over salcombe

view towards salcombe

view towards salcombe

The path continues through woods before reaching a dirt road. It's a lovely walk here and there are wildflowers everywhere and the odd butterfly flitting about but they don't want to be photographed today.

A proper road continues to the beach at South Sands where I pass quite a bit of demolition and construction before passing South Sands Hotel. I explore the beach here and watch the sea tractor travel down the beach and out into the sea to greet the South Sands Ferry as it arrives at South Sands Beach.

south sands with sea tractor

south sands with sea tractor

south sands beach

south sands beach

I continue on the road, first rising uphill and then down to North Sands Beach.

overlooking north sands

overlooking north sands

north sands beach

north sands beach

I pass the Winking Prawn Beach Cafe and then pass another patch of cheery red hot pokers, before rising up and down again to reach Salcombe.

I have lovely views out to sea overlooking the estuary and also across the estuary over to East Portlemouth.

view out to sea

view out to sea

view over to east portlemouth

view over to east portlemouth

I amble along the road into Salcombe, admiring the MASSIVE echiums and the lovely views.

I walk around to the Ferry Inn (@TFISalcombe) and climb down to the jetty where I will catch the ferry over from Salcombe to East Portlemouth tomorrow. I retrace my steps and head through the narrow streets and paths of Salcombe to the car park where my lift awaits.

ferry inn salcombe

ferry inn salcombe

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • red hot pokers
  • ribwort plantain
  • lilac
  • chiffchaffs
  • wrens
  • chaffinches
  • swallows
  • bluebells
  • wild garlic
  • red campion
  • song thrushes
  • celandine
  • skylarks
  • pheasants
  • alexanders
  • navelwort
  • cuckoo flower
  • cow parsley
  • hogweed
  • swifts
  • sea thrift
  • kidney vetch
  • big black beetles
  • stonechats
  • whitethroats (probably lesser)
  • wild carrot
  • bladder campion
  • primroses
  • a friendly robin
  • common dog-violets
  • herb robert
  • hawthorn
  • bloody crane's-bill
  • bugle
  • wild strawberry
  • foxgloves
  • apple trees
  • echiums

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.7 miles today which amounts to 38358 steps. The weather has been glorious today if a little on the cold side due to the winds .Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know again as my Ordnance Survey app has failed me again.

MAP

red hot pokers

red hot pokers

early purple orchids

early purple orchids

bantham beach

bantham beach

view towards salcombe

view towards salcombe

beach collection

beach collection

outer hope to torcross

south west coast path

11th may 2014

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good with maybe the odd shower but mostly sun all day and it looks like the wind has died down a bit.

Dartmouth high tide 16:42

Dartmouth low tide 09:59

The beginning of the day sees me back in Outer Hope next to the Hope and Anchor Inn, where I follow the road and a path through the village to reach Inner Hope. I climb some steps out of Inner Hope and follow a woodland path out on to the open slopes leading to Bolt Tail where I enjoy the views across Hope Cove.

outer hope

inner hope

view across hope cove

I walk around the headland and then climb Bolberry Down at 395 feet. The path continues before dropping steeply from Cathole Cliff into a valley where a footbridge crosses Soar Mill Cove.

soar mill cove

I walk along The Warren where I enjoy the views back to Bolt Tail. Last time I was here it was covered in thick fog and I could barely see anything but today the weather is sunny so I reach Bolt Head without any mishaps. I pause to admire the views here before continuing along the path.

looking back to bolt tail

bolt head

I cross a stream using a stone slab to reach Starehole Bay and climb a steep slope followed by some stone steps to reach Sharp Tor with some fine views towards Salcombe.

The path continues through woods before reaching a dirt road. It's a lovely walk here and there are wildflowers everywhere.

A proper road continues to the beach at South Sands. I continue on the road, first rising uphill and then down to North Sands Beach, where I pass some red hot pokers, before rising up and down again to reach Salcombe.

south sands

north sands

red hot pokers

I walk around to the Ferry Inn (@TFISalcombe) and climb down to the jetty where I catch the ferry over from Salcombe to East Portlemouth and come ashore at the Venus Cafe. I turn right and follow a minor road to reach Mill Bay, where I enjoy find views back across to Salcombe.

ferry inn

salcombe

mill bay

I walk on towards Gara Rock. There are bluebells everywhere! 

bluebells

I cross a footbridge by a crumbling ruin and the path eventually leads to Gammon Head, given to the National Trust by the Rose family on the 5th of January 1965. The path zig zags to reach Prawle Point National Coastwatch Station but is poorly signposted so I get lost. Eventually I find my way to the car park at East Prawle.

The path passes in front of Maelcombe House before reaching Lannacombe Beach. I avoid falling down the crumbling cliff at The Narrows where I find my one and only orchid of the day. I'm clearly not looking out for them properly!

lannacombe beach

orchid

I head round Start Point and pass the Start Point Lighthouse.

start point

I follow the path down a steep slope to reach Hallsands. I last walked through here in April 2012 and, shortly afterwards, in May 2012, an access road, viewing platform and two houses were affected by a 200 tonne landslide. I wander down to the viewing platform to assess the damage.

view from hallsands viewing platform

The path continues to Greenstraight Beach and then on to Tinsey Head before dropping down to Beesands. I walk along the road at Beesands to reach the Cricket Inn (@TheCricketInn), birthplace of the Rolling Stones, where I stop for a pint of Otter Brewery's (@otterbreweryOtter Bitter and then continue on my way past St Andrew's Church.

cricket inn

I inspect the storm damaged beach at Beesands before heading off towards Torcross.

storm damaged beesands

A short walk takes me to Torcross where I climb down steps, admiring the view across Slapton Sands, to reach the promenade and the end of my walk. I walk past the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) and the Sherman tank, honouring the memory of servicemen, and head in to the car park where my lift awaits.

torcross

start bay inn

Torcross and Slapton Sands also took a battering in this winter's storms, although most of the damage has been cleared now

In 1943, Torcross and the surrounding area was evacuated so that Slapton Sands could be used as a training area in preparation for the D-Day landings. This video tells the story of the evacuation all those years ago in the words of seven local residents who were children at the time.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • skylarks
  • woodpeckers
  • bluebells
  • wild garlic
  • red campion
  • red hot pokers
  • little egret
  • one orchid
  • navelwort
  • dead nettles

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available.  You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

Phew! What a trek!! According to my phone I've walked 26.2 miles today which amounts to 46914 steps. Although it has been a blustery day (nothing like yesterday though) the weather has been fantastic, the rain stayed away and the walking has been great. 9 out of 10.


View outer hope to toreros in a larger map

bolt tail