falmouth to st mawes, st just in roseland and back again

October 07, 2019 by Mark Seymour in fal estuary

falmouth

wednesday, 2nd october 2019

It has been a filthy week of weather with lots of rain and strong winds but the weather forecast for today looks much better and I should have some sun, no rain and light winds. Normal weather will resume tomorrow!

Falmouth high tide 08:27

Falmouth low tide 15:05

I start the day at Custom House Quay in Falmouth where I purchase my return ticket for the ferry to St Mawes and back at the ticket office. The ticket costs me £10.

I board the 09:45 ferry which chugs it’s way over to St Mawes. The journey takes about 20 minutes.

I disembark the ferry at the quay at St Mawes. The quay dates from mediaeval times. The first record of it is from 1539 and there are many records of repairs during the 17th Century. It was also rebuilt at least twice during Victorian times.

I amble around the quay and continue along the road past the quay towards the Idle Rocks Hotel to reach a junction beside the Rising Sun pub.

I keep right at the junction to follow the road behind the Idle Rocks Hotel and wander along the pavement, following this until Summers Beach where I walk down the ramp leading to the beach. I’ll return to this beach later on in the day when the tide is further out.

I rejoin the road and follow it around a long bend until I pass the driveway to Polvarth and reach Polvarth Lane.

I turn right down Polvarth Lane and follow it towards the Polvarth Boatyard where I reach a footpath signpost on the left.

Polvarth Quay was built by the American troops during the Second World War in preparation for the D Day landings.

I follow the signpost and turn left and go up the steps signposted to Porthcuel Creek and follow the path until it eventually emerges on a driveway, enjoying the late wild flowers.

I turn right into the driveway and follow it towards a boatyard and then turn left down the waymarked path and follow it until it emerges into a field.

I amble across the field to a rather fallen down waymark in front of some bushes.

I follow the path through the bushes to reach another waymark and follow the path downhill along a metal railing. At the bottom I follow the path above the creek and continue until I reach a fork in the path, just before a gate marked ‘PRIVATE’. I continue along the left hand fork and follow the path uphill to emerge into a field. It’s beginning to get rather muddy after all the heavy rain we’ve had.

I climb some steps and follow the path to reach a footbridge over a stream.

I cross a bridge and climb up some steps before reaching a waymarked kissing gate.

I go through the gate and turn left onto a track and follow it through a gate and continue to reach a junction of tracks at a farm and next to Quayhouse Bosloggas.

I follow the track until it ends at a road. The settlement here is called Nanshuttal and was first recorded in 1327.

I cross the road and turn right to follow along the verge past a water tower covered in ariels. Back behind me the road leads back to St Mawes.

I reach a track on the left with a stile marked with a National Trust sign for Tregear Vean.

I clamber over the stile and the path follows along hedges through fields full of cows and over stiles and through gateways. I have lovely views over the Carrick Roads area of the estuary which is roughly a mile across.

I can see Mylor Creek over the other side of the estuary full of yachts and a bit futher up, Restronguet Creek. I visited these creeks four years ago.

I come across a small copper butterfly feeding on Cat’s-ear and also see several red admiral and speckled wood butterflies.

I have magnificent views back over to Falmouth.

If I had done this walk in January 1992, a shocking orange plume of pollution would have been visible, stretching down Carrick Roads after the pumps at Wheal Jane were finally switched off in 1991.

After ambling along uneventfully for some time I cross a stile next to a gate and cross a driveway to a waymark where I climb down steps and turn right at a waymark to follow the path which takes me to the car park at St Just in Roseland next to the church.

I immediately turn left through the churchyard gate and follow a concrete path through the churchyard to the church. I walk around the church to the side facing the creek.

St Just In Roseland Church is based on a 13th century building that was remodelled in the 14th and 15th centuries and then reworked fairly heavily in a 19th century restoration.

I follow the creekside path to reach a pedestrian gate and I then follow the path along the edge of the creek until it emerges on a concrete ramp beside Pasco’s Boatyard.

I walk along the front of the boatyard and then along a track up a hill.

I follow the track ahead, signposted to St Mawes and reach a gate on the left, marked with a National Trust Churchtown Farm sign.

It is now an uneventful walk along extremely muddy fields passing over stiles and through hedges and gates on my way back to St Mawes. There are a series of gates on my right that take me down to the shingle beach.

I eventually reach a pedestrian gate which I go through and then follow the lane to reach St Mawes Castle.

St Mawes Castle is part of the chain of coastal defences built during the reign of King Henry VIII to protect against an invasion threat from Catholic France and Spain after establishing the Church of England.

I pass the castle entrance and follow a path to emerge onto Lower Castle Road which I follow down into St Mawes. I pass Tavern Beach on the way down which has a lone seal pup on it.

I continue along Lower Castle Road to arrive back at the quay in the heart of St Mawes.

The 13:15 ferry is about to leave for Falmouth but I have one last bit of business to attend to. I still have time to catch the 13:45 or 14:15 ferry before the low tide disrupts the ferry service for an hour or so, so I head back through St Mawes to Summers Beach.

The following photo was taken in something like 1974 or so.

I’ve just got time to attempt to re-enact the photo in the here and now and I reckon I’ve done a pretty good job especially considering that I couldn’t see a thing on the camera screen.

I head back to the quay and just about manage to catch the 13:45 ferry back to Falmouth where I disembark on the Prince of Wales Pier.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

hemp agrimony
fuchsias
ceanothus
hogweed
buddleia
blackberries
red campion
ivy
hydrangeas
crocosmia
cranesbill
small copper butterflies
red admirals
speckled woods
knapweed
oystercatchers
robins

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 8.8 miles today which amounts to 20061 steps. The walking has been lovely today if a little muddy and the weather surprisingly good for such a filthy week. Nine out of ten!

The total ascent today has been 599 feet or 182 metres.

MAP

gyllyngvase to maenporth, budock water and back again

October 06, 2019 by Mark Seymour in falmouth

falmouth

sunday, 29TH SEPTEMBER 2019

The weather forecast for the entire week is decidedly ropey but the weather forecast for today looks OK. We’ll see.

Falmouth high tide 06:20

Falmouth low tide 13:05

I start the day at our holiday apartment just outside of Falmouth and walk the short distance down the road to Gyllyngvase Beach. It’s very quiet on the beach as the dog ban still has another couple of days to run but no doubt, come the 1st of October, the beach will be heaving with excited dogs.

I amble along the beach and then walk the short distance along the coast path to Swanpool Beach, which is covered in seaweed left by the retreating tide.

I leave Swanpool and amble along the coast path for half an hour or so until I reach Maenporth Beach. The weather is taking a turn for the worst and the skies are looking ominous.

I make my way out of the central exit from the car park behind the beach and just before the brown sign for The Cove I cross the road to the red postbox where there is a public footpath sign at a gravel track beside the Old Boatyard which seems to be the home for Arvor Sea Kayaking.

I turn right and follow the gravel track marked ‘Private Lane’ and continue until I reach a turning area beside a house.

I follow a small path from the turning area and continue until I reach a fork in the path, just before the left-hand path reaches a stile.

I keep left at the fork and climb over the stile and continue along the path until it eventually emerges onto a lane. I spot a brief shaft of sun lighting up the path but it disappears as quickly as it appeared.

I turn right onto the lane and follow it past houses, a stream, a public footpath sign on the right, and past the 40mph signs to reach a public footpath sign on the left, just before a sharp bend.

I go through a gate on the left indicated by the footpath sign and follow the track to a gateway in the hedge opposite.

I go through the gate and follow the track parallel to the right hedge to the gateway opposite. The field is full of cows but they are on the other side of the field a long way away.

I go through the gateway and follow along the right hedge to a gate on the opposite side of the field.

I go through the gate and follow along the right hedge for roughly three quarters of the length of the field until I reach a recess in the hedge with a gate on my right.

I clamber over the stile to the left of the gate and follow the path to emerge on a track. I continue along the filthy track until it meets a road at the entrance to Penwarne Farm Café where I have distant views of the sea. The field here is full of cows and for some strange reason, a blue bus.

The optimism of the earlier shaft of sunlight has now disappeared and the weather has taken a turn for the worse. It’s now raining and doesn’t look like it will clear up any time soon.

I continue ahead on a driveway marked ‘No Entry’ ignoring the sign, until I reach a gate on the right, just past a building and opposite a sign on a tree on the left marked ‘NO PUBLIC RIGHTS BEYOND THIS POINT’.

The gate on the far side of the building is open so I head into the field and follow roughly half-way along the right hedge of the field to reach a stile made of rusty iron. It’s a rather small stile and I struggle to get through it even though I’m small myself.

I turn left when I reach a drive and follow the drive until it ends on a lane.

I cross the lane to the stile and gateway opposite. I go through the gateway and follow a path across the field which is not even remotely going in the same direction as the sign is pointing. I disturb some skylarks in the field. It seems to be the correct path though and I find a gate just to the left of some buildings.

My notes tell me that in the distance I can see the lighthouse on St Anthony's Head. However the weather now is filthy with driving rain and strong winds and I can’t see a thing.

I go through the gate and turn right onto the driveway, following this past Higher Crill Farm to a bend. I should pass a stepped stone stile but fail to spot it as it’s so well camouflaged by the wall. I should then continue past this to reach a small stone stile at the end of the wall but instead I reach the small stone stile thinking it must be the stepped stone stile. If that makes any sense.

I’m confused now and can’t find the right way to go so amble around for ages in various directions trying to find a second stile, not helped by the fact that the path over the second stile is a stinky old path looking nothing like a public footpath and blocked by some wire fencing.

It’s also not helped by bad weather meaning that I can’t get my map or phone out.

Eventually I cross over this second stile for the third or fourth time and scramble over the wire fencing and follow a vague path along the right edge of a field.

I come across a stile on my left and think that I’m probably on the right path again. I follow the right hedge of the field to reach a stile in the hedge opposite.

I cross the stile and bear left slightly across the field to the side of the embankment ahead. I then continue ahead to keep the embankment and farmyard on my right and reach a small stone stile.

I climb over the stile and follow alongside a barn to reach a gate and stile in the corner of the field.

I am now in the settlement of Trewen which was first recorded in 1321. I have no idea about this as I lost my sense of direction completely after leaving Maenporth so I have no idea where I am.

I clamber over the stile and turn left onto a track, following this, keeping right where the track forks to go into a field full of cows. I continue on a stinky track to reach a junction of tracks with some waymarks.

At the junction, I bear left to cross a stone stile to the left of the gate ahead. I walk parallel to the left hedge of the field to reach an opening in the hedge with an odd concrete structure which is disguising itself as a stile.

I go down a vague flight of steps and follow a path through woodland. Where the path forks, I vaguely head left to descend the tree covered bank and continue downhill. I should reach a ford over a stream but don’t.

Instead I come to a stone and concrete river crossing so I cross the bridge and bear right to follow the path on the other side of the river. I continue to reach a waywmark beside a crossing over a wall.

I cross the wall at the waymark and bear left onto the driveway, following this uphill until I reach a gravel driveway on the right, just after a building and before I reach some (apparently) staddle (mushroom) stones on my left.

I am now at the settlement called Sparnon but I have no idea.

I turn right and walk towards a wooden gate until I find some steps leading up to a pedestrian gate on my left. I climb these and go through the gate into a field with a view over wind turbines. I follow the path around the edge of the field to reach a stile.

I climb over the stile, turn right onto a footpath and follow this to a waymark at a junction of paths.

The footpath is the remains of a mediaeval cart road. At one time, Nangitha Lane, as it was known, was described as ‘a good road with pavement along one side’. It’s not! It’s a stinky, muddy path!!

I keep right at the waymark and follow the path beneath trees. I continue ahead as the path merges onto a surfaced drive, keeping left past the buildings to reach another waymark.

At the waymark, I bear right over the stone stile and head down a small nettle and bramble infested footpath. I follow this over one stile to reach a second stile, leading onto a road.

I cross the stile onto a busy road and carefully cross the road to the steps opposite. Fortunately there aren’t many cars charging around on this Sunday morning.

I climb the steps and go through the pedestrian gate which seems to be made out of a pallet. I cross the field and head towards the church to reach a footpath sign.

I turn right on the drive as indicated by the footpath sign and I know where I am now as I’m next to St Budock Parish Church.

I amble around the churchyard for a while before returning to the footpath.

I keep left to cross a low stone stile with a small waymark and follow a path along the wall of the churchyard. I follow this to another stile and waymark at a junction of paths.

I cross the stile and turn right, following the path to reach another waymark and stile.

I cross the stile and follow the lane ahead until it ends, then follow a path leading from it alongside a garden to emerge into a yard.

I cross the yard to the lane ahead and follow the lane until I reach a falling down public footpath sign on the left.

I cross the stile below the footpath sign and bear right across the field to a stile in a gap in the middle of the hedge opposite.

I’m finally orientated and, on the skyline, can see Pendennis Castle and St. Anthony’s Lighthouse. It’s a distinctly murky view though.

I cross the stile and carefully cross the road to Prislow Lane opposite before following the lane until it ends in a T-junction passing the Boslowick Inn.

I turn right at the junction and follow the road uphill until I reach a junction for Carrick Road on the left.

I turn left onto Carrick Road and follow this until it ends in a turning area where I pass through a gap then turn left and follow the path along the front of some houses and through some railings to emerge onto a residential road.

I cross the road to the footpath opposite and follow this downhill to a residential road passing noisy rooks and magpies. I cross over this and continue downhill on the path until it eventually ends at a junction with a surfaced track beside a metal gate.

During the Second World War, a large fuel depot for use in the D-Day landings was located on the hillside behind Swanpool. During the final air raid on Falmouth, the depot was hit by a bomb and a flood of burning fuel swept down the valley towards the houses below. An American navy officer managed to use a bulldozer to divert the flow away from the houses and was awarded the British Empire Medal for his bravery.

When I reach the track, I pass a gate and turn right onto a small path with three bollards marked with a ‘Public Footpath Swanpool Beach’ sign and follow the path until it emerges, via two more bollards, onto a drive. I seem to have walked through Swanvale Nature Reserve.

I continue ahead on the driveway until it ends in a T-junction and then turn right onto a lane which I follow alongside Swanpool Lake and past some houses until it reaches the car park at Swanpool.

It’s now time to retrace my steps back to Gyllyngvase. I re-join the beach at Swanpool.

I amble back along the coast path taking photographs of the late wild flowers.

By the time I get back to Gyllyngvase Beach the weather has improved dramatically. Thanks weather! It’s time for me to dry out!!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

oystercatchers
song thrush
blue tits
jay
agave
gunnera
hydrangeas
cows
red campion
roses
herb robert
rape
ivy
gorse
crocosmia
knapweed
yarrow
sea aster

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.8 miles today which amounts to 23670 steps. The walking has been awful in, at times, filthy weather. Four out of ten!

MAP

harlyn to mawgan porth

September 14, 2019 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 10th september 2019

After a filthy day yesterday of squally showers the weather forecast for today looks much better and I should have sun all day long with a light northerly wind.

Padstow low tide 10:16

Padstow high tide 16:13

I start the day in the car park at Harlyn but quickly descend to the beach which is quiet with just a few dog walkers. It is a lovely morning and long may the good weather continue.

I amble along the beach enjoying the early morning sun and say ‘hello’ to all of the friendly dogs and to some of the, orginally, not so friendly dogs!

As you walk along the beach it doesn't look obvious that there's an exit off the beach at the far end, but there is one near to a stone house. There is also another exit a bit further along using a slipway but this one is eaten up by the tide today.

I head in behind some rocks and climb out of Harlyn Bay. I take one last look back over the beach and then climb gently up onto Cataclews Point.

I amble along the gentle cliffs enjoying the late season wild flowers.

The coast path continues along the cliffs around Mother Ivey's Bay and I have a lovely views across to the lifeboat station, clinging to the bottom of the cliffs.

I climb down onto the fine, sandy beach using a steep beach access road. It's surprisingly quiet so I do some exploration before climbing back onto the cliffs.

The path heads inland before reaching the access road to the lifeboat station. The coast path continues through fields towards Trevose Head where I have one last view over Mother Ivey’s Bay. I continue to enjoy the late flowering wild flowers.

I come across another hummingbird hawk-moth but it proves to be very flighty and rather difficult to photograph. All I get is a ghostly image of this day flying moth.

I then come across a painted lady feeding on the valerian.

I round Trevose head, passing behind the lighthouse here.

I complete the traversal of Trevose Head by passing the tumulus on Dinas Head.

Somebody has succumbed to their ancestral instincts here and has laid out stones in patterns. One of them reads :-

“Happy 70th Anda”

I’ve no idea who Anda is and the last ‘a’ looks more like an ‘a’ than a ‘y’. It can’t be the South Korean pop singer who debuted in 2012 as she is only 28!

I now have magnificent views across Constantine Bay, one of my favourite places on the coast path.

I pass a group of people filming but there’s not much indication of what they are filming except that one person has got ‘chaperone’ emblazoned across their back so it must be something to do with children.

I amble down the slopes to reach Booby's Bay (snigger!!). I’ve hit the beaches here at just after low tide so there’s plenty of sand on display today. A short walk along the path takes me down on to Constantine Bay, one of the best surfing beaches in Cornwall. There aren’t many surfers out on the waves today (it’s probably too early) but should you wish to join them, you can get supplies from the Constantine Bay Surf Store (@Constantinesurf) in the village behind the beach.

I drop down onto the sand at Constantine Bay and then retrace my steps onto Booby’s Bay. It is now a beautiful day and surprising warm.

I continue my walk along this beautiful, sandy beach before reluctantly coming ashore at a slipway.

I take one last, admiring glance back over Constantine Bay and then follow a narrow road and track towards Treyarnon Point. I round Treyarnon Point and descend down to Treyarnon Bay, yet another sandy beach, passing the youth hostel and cafe.

I wander down the sandy beach to the sea before retracing my steps and climb out of the bay. There used to be a pink ice cream caravan, home to Rosie's Ice Cream, but it seems to have been forced to close. It has been replaced by Melt.

A grassy path rounds several headlands and coves and, dare I say it, the path almost takes on a rugged nature. Out at sea can be found the Minnows Islands.

The coast path suddenly reveals Porthcothan Bay and I climb down the scrubby slopes and head out onto the sandy beach.

Porthcothan is a fine, sandy beach and another of my favourite places. I amble slowly down to the sea and then retrace my steps.

I head through the dune system and pass the Porthcothan Bay Stores, a small store with a big heart!

I take the path between houses and the low cliff edge and admire the wild flowers clinging to the cliffs.

I have some last views over Porthcothan before it is time to make my way to Mawgan Porth.

I pass by Porthcothan Golden which, because of the low tide, is actually joined to Porthcothan today.

I come across a small copper butterfly and manage to take some photographs before wandering round the headland and admire the views out over the stacks that make up Trescore Islands.

I come across Porth Mear, a shingly and stoney beach in stark contrast to the usual golden, sandy beaches around here and it's full of rockpools waiting to be explored.

At Porth Mear I cross a footbridge and head out onto Park Head and then pass a series of crumbling headlands and coves. I now have my first views over Bedruthan Steps.

I amble along the cliffs admiring the rugged granite outcrops from above. First up is Diggory's Island, then Queen Bess Rock, Samaritan Island, Redcove Island, Pendarves Island and Carnewas Island. The stacks were put here by a giant called Bedruthan and used as stepping stones. What a load of old nonsense! They could just have been formed by natural wave erosion!!

Somebody has carved ‘FACIST’ into the beach below! It won’t last long now with the tide rapidly coming in.

I begin the long descent down to Bedruthan Steps Beach, not a descent for the faint hearted. There are an awful lot of steep steps down - a sign tells me there are 120 but I count over 130 - to the beach here and the tide is coming in so there’s not much beach left. At least I managed to get here for the first time in a while. I can now admire the sea stacks from up close.

I climb wearily back up the concrete steps and then climb more steps up the cliff where a National Trust information centre and cafe at Carnewas can be found. I have some final views back over Bedruthan Steps.

It is properly warm now so I head to the National Trust cafe and grab a blackcurrent and apple pop-up ice lolly and suck on it greedily as I head back to the coast path.

Carnewas was a hive of industrial activity in the 19th century although not much is known of the mining that took place there. It is supposed that miners tunnelled into the cliffs from the beach in search of iron, copper and lead. Mining stopped many years ago, but the buildings are a reminder of this industry. The National Trust shop was once the count house or mine office and the café was also converted from mine buildings.

Carnewas at Bedruthan has been recognised as a Dark Skies Discovery Site and has gained a Milky Way Plus Events class, meaning that the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye.

I head off around Trenance Point where I have magnificent views over Mawgan Porth.

I drop down to the beach at Mawgan Porth, which, once again, is golden and sandy. I walk along the beach before heading back towards the village and the car park where my lift awaits.

Besides the beach here can be found the Merrymoor Inn (@Merrymoor), which once again has fantastic views for thirsty walkers.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

mussels
sea thrift
wild carrot
sea bindweed
ragwort
robins
dunnocks
wall brown butterflies
small copper butterflies
jackdaws
wheatears
oystercatchers
blue tits
small tortoiseshell butterflies
mesembryanthemum
yarrow
red valerian
common toadflax
common mallow
ribwort plantain
daisy
hummingbird hawk-moth
bugloss
blackberries
painted lady
creeping broomrape
heather
bladder campion
crocosmia
sea aster
larged-flowered evening-primrose
herb robert
red campion
hedge woundwort
fleabane
knapweed
watermint
purple loosestrife
hemp agrimony
peregrine (could have been a hobby - I have no idea)

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.5 miles today which amounts to 30938 steps and is a bit further than I was expecting. The walking has been magnificent today and the weather surprisingly good. Much warmer than my weather app is telling me it would be but also much more blustery. Ten out of ten!

The total ascent today has been 303 feet or 92 metres.

map

polzeath to harlyn

September 14, 2019 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 8th september 2019

It looks like it’s going to be a lovely day today. Not particularly warm but I should get a lot of sun and there’s barely any wind.

Padstow low tide 07:38

Padstow high tide 13:44

I start the day at our holiday cottage on a golf course and amble down the golf course towards Polzeath. It is a beautiful morning. I admire the late wild flowers as I approach Polzeath.

As I approach Polzeath I pass the Whitewater Gallery, Cone Zone, Ann’s Cottage Surf Shops Cornwall, Paradise Pizza, The Sandbar, Waterfront Bar and Grill and Beach Box Cafe.

I head out onto Polzeath Beach. It’s still early so the beach is pretty quiet but surfers are making their way out to the waves.

I head along the path above Broadagogue Cove and Greenaway Beach and gently descend towards Daymer Bay.

I head out onto the beach at Fishing Cove Field, inhabited by dog walkers, and amble slowly along the sand. St Enodoc Church can be found just inland here but I continue along the beach. Normally I’d be able to walk straight across to Daymer Bay but the tide is too far in so I take to the grassy slopes of Brea Hill and head through the dune system.

I amble through the dunes until I find a safe exit point onto the beach and then it is a pleasant stroll along the sand of Daymer Bay heading towards Rock.

I reach the ferry slipway at Rock and wait for the ferry to cross over from Padstow.

I catch the ferry across to Padstow which costs me £4 for a return ticket.

The ferry pulls into the harbour in Padstow and I alight the ferry and amble into Padstow for a bit of exploring

It’s still early so Padstow is fairly quiet but I expect it will be heaving later.

I wander around the harbour passing the The Shipwrights (@theshipwrights), The Harbour Inn and The Old Custom House (@ochpadstow)

I retrace my steps and then climb steadily out of Padstow, walk through a gate and then follow grassy slopes up to the granite war memorial overlooking Daymer Bay and the Camel estuary. The clouds are gathering quite ominously but I don’t they’ll threaten me today.

The war memorial always signals the end of any crowds (not that there were any) and I should just have dog walkers, runners and surfers for company for the rest of today.

There’s a plaque next to the war memorial which I haven’t seen before to commemorate the centenary of the end of the First World War.

“They shall grow not old,
as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them,
nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun
and in the morning
We will remember them.”

— For the Fallen, Laurence Binyon

I amble along the coast path and fall into conversation with an Australian who is walking the south west coast path in its entirety. He is on day 11 of his walk and is hoping to complete the walk in 38 days.

I reach Harbour Cove and the coast path meanders behind the beach but the sand is far too enticing so I head out across the beach instead. I have the whole beach to myself except for a few dog walkers. Out at the mouth of the estuary can usually be seen The Doom Bar, named after a rather tasty beer from Sharp's Brewery! It's covered in water today. The ominous clouds are still behind me but ahead are blue skies.

At Hawker's Cove I come across a small group of buildings and head along a road before passing between two rows of cottages. The Padstow lifeboat was stationed here until 1967, before being relocated to Mother Ivey's Bay due to river silting. I spot someone fishing from the lifeboat station slipway.

I continue to amble along the coast path enjoying the wild flowers.

I head towards Stepper Point and walk below the coastguard station here and then pass a daymark, which served as a navigation beacon for seafarers during daylight hours.

I amble along the cliffs and pass Pepper Hole and Butter Hole and head along the grassy slopes to Gunver Head, passing Fox Hole. A sign tells me that the fields around here are full of corn buntings and skylarks but I don't see any. It's very unusual to go on a coastal walk without hearing skylarks but it's the wrong time of year.

I pass a blow-hole, Round Hole, at Roundhole Point, an 80 feet deep hole in the cliffs formed from a collapsed cave. Somehow, a man managed to fall down it recently. I now have lovely views over Trevone Bay.

I walk down towards the beach car park and then head out on to the beach and enjoy the fine sand. I retrace my steps and head out of Trevone Bay.

The path continues above a rocky beach towards Harlyn Bay. I come across sea bindweed, sea thrift, common toadflax, secret beaches and some nutters who are throwing themselves into the sea.

At Harlyn Bay I climb down steps to reach the fine, sandy beach. I amble along the beach for a while before retracing my steps to head towards the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
himalayan balsam
red valerian
ragwort
rabbits
buddleia
mullein
hemp agrimony
sunflowers
nasturtiums
roses
hydrangea
agapanthus
fennel
mesembryanthemum
japanese anemones
crocosmia
small copper butterflies
clouded yellow butterflies
blackberries
honeysuckle
swallows
housemartins
knapweed
sea thrift
sea bindweed
betony
common toadflax

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 13.8 miles today which amounts to 28485 steps. It has been a beautiful day of walking. Ten out of ten!

The total ascent today has been a miserly 119 feet or 36 metres.

map

port isaac to polzeath

September 14, 2019 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 7TH SEPTEMBER 2019

After yesterday's squally rain it looks like the weather will be much better today. It's not going to be particularly warm but at least it should be dry and the wind has died down a bit.

Port Isaac high tide 12:12

Port Isaac low tide 18:40

I start the day in the car park at the top of Port Isaac. I head down a tarmac path which leads into the village, passing autumnal flowers along the way

Fortunately it's still pretty early so the village isn't heaving yet with Doc Martin fans. I head down the hill towards the harbour, passing all of the touristy shops.

I pass the Golden Lion (@GLportisaac) and the Port Isaac lifeboat station before I have views over the harbour and I head down the slipway onto the beach.

The Port Isaac Shanty Festival starts today and a stage is being set up at the top of the beach. I enjoy the beach for a while before heading uphill out of Port Isaac.

I now have lovely views over the beach and harbour and I enjoy the wild flowers next to the coast path. I spot a hummingbird hawk-moth and for a change manage to photograph it.

I climb up some granite steps before walking around the edge of a field on Lobber Point. I cross a footbridge at Pine Haven.

I climb up a long flight of steps before heading around Varly Head, passing Varley Sand. I’m now above Greengarden Cove and I continue along the coast path around Scarnor Point. I pass above Downgate Cove and walk along the cliffs above Reedy Cliff.

I climb gently down from Kellan Head towards Port Quin.

Port Quin is now a short hop away and I head out onto the rather rocky Port Quin Beach. There used to be a thriving pilchard industry here as well as mining activities but these have both long ago dried up and the teeny village is now owned by the National Trust.

I head out on the beach for a bit. I spot a man sat at the top of the beach wearing wellies, a bright orange jacket and a flat cap. He gets out a bag and then pulls out a load of paintbrushes and starts to paint on some paper.

Hang on a sec! I recognize that man. He’s Kurt Jackson!! Needless to say I leave him to his peaceful painting.

I leave Port Quin via the road before climbing over a stone stile. I cut inland of Doyden Point, passing a truncated gothic tower, Doyden Castle, built in 1827 and now turned into a holiday cottage.

I continue along the coast path passing a couple of mine shafts surrounded by slate fencing posts. These mines are known as Gilson's Cove mine or Doyden Point mine and produced a mixture of silver, lead and antimony and also a bit of copper.

Between the two shafts the coast path runs through the middle of a horse whim that was used to haul materials from the mine.

I climb gently onto Trevan Point and enjoy the wild flowers where I also come across a small copper butterfly. I also spot a red admiral and a small tortoiseshell butterfly but they prove to be too flighty to photograph.

I continue along the coast and come across Epphaven Cove where I can cross a stream over the beach and caves. It’s a bit of a scramble down to the beach but there’s no beach today anyway with the tide so far in.

Between Epphaven Cove and Lundy Hole Beach I come across a painted lady butterfly.

I continue along the coast path to reach Lundy Hole Beach. It’s rather a small beach and entirely covered by the tide except for boulders at the head of the beach. There is a wooden flight of steps which takes you down to the boulders but it’s a bit of a scramble after that to reach any sand.

I climb down the steps to do some recording and then retrace my steps and continue along the coast path to reach the arch at Lundy Hole. There is a legend that as St. Menfre was combing her hair the devil appeared in front of her and was so taken aback he dug Lundy Hole. What a load of old nonsense!

I pass Great Lobb's Rock and then pass by Downhedge Cove, Pengirt Cove and head above Sandinway Beach, passing several disused quarries and enjoying the wild flowers along the way. I also come across a wall brown butterfly and a raggedy speckled wood butterfly.

The large offshore rock behind the eastern headland of The Rumps is known as The Mouls and is a breeding site for puffins, gannets and kittiwakes in summer but they are presumably long gone now.

The path continues towards The Rumps before swinging sharply to the left where I head towards Pentire Point and come across a herd of lazy cows lying on the coast path.

The Rumps were formerly an Iron Age Cliff Castle with excellent defensive capability due to the constricted neck leading out to the twin headlands.

I now change direction and start to have some protection from the cold northerly winds. I can now see across to the infamous Doom Bar sandbank where the River Camel meets the Atlantic Ocean. The sandbank is revered as a formidable nautical challenge that should be approached with respect and navigated with skill. Or so my pint glass tells me!

I now have magnificent views over Hayle Bay towards Polzeath.

I descend towards Pentire Haven but the sand is covered up so I climb back onto the cliffs and head towards Pentireglaze Haven. There’s sand here and I normally walk across this beach straight onto Polzeath Beach but the tide is in too far today.

I head back onto the cliffs and amble along before dropping down to Polzeath Beach where I head straight out onto the beach. It’s rather busy but that’s probably not surprising as it’s a Saturday and the weather is rather good. There are a lot of people out on the surf.

I amble back along the beach heading towards Polzeath village where I pass the Waterfront Bar and Grill (@WaterFront_Polz).

Fortunately I found a public footpath from our holiday cottage down to Polzeath yesterday afternoon otherwise I would have had to traipse along roads back to the cottage.

The footpath takes me out of Polzeath and I have one final round of photographing the wild flowers before heading across The Point golf course and my walking is done for the day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

white valerian
red valerian
hummingbird hawk-moth
fuchsia
tansy
crocosmia
acanthus
oxeye daisy
buddleia
ragwort
honeysuckle
common toadflax
red campion
sea thrift
ribwort plantain
cows
cormorants
bladder campion
small copper butterfly
red admiral butterfly
small tortoiseshell butterfly
betony
knapweed
painted lady butterfly
blackberries
sloes
herb robert
gorse
cat’s ear
wall brown butterfly
hawthorn
heather
speckled wood butterfly
mullein
himalayan balsam

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.3 miles today which amounts to 26879 steps. It has been nice to get back out on the south west coast path after three months away and it has been a lovely day’s walking. Nine out of ten!

My total elevation today is 489 feet or 149 metres.