bridport to cogden

June 13, 2018 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

partially along the SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

in search of bee orchids

saturday, 9TH june 2018

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good, and I should have sun with cloud all day long. There shouldn't be much wind but it is blowing in the wrong direction which it has done for most of this year.

Bridport low tide 08:29

Bridport high tide 15:25

The aim of today is to find bee orchids in the fields above Cogden Beach. I've been here quite regularly over the years so I should have a very good chance of finding them.

It's farmers' market day in Bridport today which is held on the second Saturday of each month.

We leave our apartment, conveniently located in the heart of Bridport, at just after nine 'o' clock and amble around all of the market stalls while stopping off in the various bookshops. I manage to add to my Roald Dahl collection, start my Paddington collection with five books and add to my nephew's growing Ladybird collection.

It is now time to head for the National Trust car park at Cogden. I head down West Street and then follow the River Brit as it heads out of Bridport.

There are some rather nice roses clinging to the fences surrounding the allotments next to the playground.

I head behind St Mary's and then pass next to the grounds of Bridport Football Club.

I pass behind Palmers Brewery and amble along the river bank enjoying the wild flowers.

I head across fields towards West Bay where I come across a herd of cattle. Even though there are quite a few calves with their mums they aren't in the slightest bit bothered by me.

The grass in the fields has been cut recently. We saw an awful lot of tractors making their way through Bridport yesterday loaded up with hay.

I head through West Bay Holiday Park where I take photographs of the various flowers.

The early morning grey clouds have started to lift and it's starting to get rather warm. I amble though West Bay and head through The Customs House emporium.

I head out on to West Bay Beach where there are loads of people enjoying the sunshine and warmth.

I amble along the sandy beach below the iconic, and very crumbling, West Cliff.

At Freshwater Beach Holiday Park I have to head inland in order to cross the River Bride over a wooden bridge. I head back to the coast again and head along the sandy beach towards Burton Bradstock.

I head along Hive Beach at Burton Bradstock which turns into Cogden Beach where the coast path heads inland. I walk along a rutted and baked dry path where I come across my first bee orchid all on its own.

I continue along the baked path and come across a lovely patch of flag irises.

Next to the irises I come across a large clump of southern marsh orchids. This is turning into a rather successful orchid hunt!

I pass a National Trust sign for Cogden and head inland across fields. It is a properly warm day now and the skylarks are making a racket above the fields.

I amble along the flower strewn fields keeping a beady eye out for bee orchids but instead I spot a pyramidal orchid, just coming into flower. This is swiftly joined by loads of other pyramidal orchids. This is now my third orchid species of the day.

I should be seeing bee orchids by now but instead spot another orchid species which I don't initially recognize but turns out to be a greater butterfly orchid (it could be a lesser butterfly orchid but I haven't a clue how to tell the difference between the two) which I haven't seen for years and I don't recall seeing them in this field before.

This greater butterfly orchid is all on its own but further along the field I find a small clump of some more.

My orchid field guide tells me that I can tell the difference between the greater and lesser butterfly orchid because the two pollinia are set wide apart on the greater. I guess they must be greater butterfly orchids then.

This has turned into a fantastic day for orchids. Four species in one day! Bee orchids are turning out to be elusive though. However, finally I spot another bee orchid.

And then I start to see more bee orchids - not as many as I was expecting - but on a day like this I'm not complaining.

I pass behind Orthona, a spiritual and community retreat, and then continue along the fields until I reach the National Trust car park at Cogden. My orchid hunting is over for the day.

I head back down towards Cogden Beach where I enjoy the sea thrift, sea poppies and the sea cabbage.

It's time to head up onto the cliffs. I head through Old Coastguard Holiday Park and then drop down towards Hive Beach again.

I head behind Hive Beach Cafe before climbing back onto the cliffs at Burton Cliff and then clamber down the cliff at Freshwater Beach Holiday Park.

I head inland to cross the river again before walking through the holiday park and clamber back onto the cliffs at East Cliff. I walk past Bridport and West Dorset Golf Club and then have magnificent views over West Bay.

I head through West Bay and then back towards Bridport where I pass Palmers Brewery again.

I head through Bridport Community Orchard and pass behind St Mary's.

I head past the market stalls which are now packing up for the day and my walking is over. It has been a fantastic orchid hunting day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

swifts
rabbits
cows
roses
cow parsley
hogweed
wild carrot
elderflower
geums
agapanthus
aquilegia
ribwort plantain
bee orchids
flag iris
southern marsh orchids
pyramidal orchids
greater butterfly orchids
birds-foot trefoil
sea thrift
sea poppy
sea cabbage

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16.5 miles today which amounts to 35583 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking today with some great orchid success. Ten out of ten!

Hmmm. My Ordnance Survey app failed me again. My other app I use to track elevation worked but it's showing a decidedly dodgy graph!

MAP

swanage to south haven point

June 13, 2018 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

thursday, 7TH june 2018

Today's weather forecast looks to be on the ropey side and it should be cold, murky and damp.

Swanage low tide 10:16

Swanage high tide 13:23

I start the day back in Swanage next to the clocktower which is showing the time as 5 'o' clock. It's not. It's a quarter to eight!

It's a murky day and rain threatens so it's not going to be a good day for photographs.

I take to the sandy beach and walk along it, clambering over the timber groynes, until I reach The Cabin beach cafe below The Grand Hotel. The official coast path climbs stairs here to reach the cliff top. I reckon I can continue along the beach though so I do, continuing to climb over the groynes.

I pass some colourful beach huts.

I then pass a row of beach huts with the following names :-

seagull
sailing
summery
oyster
lobster
puffin
pelican
dipper
blue sky
cockles
sandpiper
seashell

I clamber over the last groyne and spot some steps which I climb and find my first coast path sign telling me that Old Harry Rocks is two miles away and Studland three miles away.

I head across Ballard Down to reach Ballard Point. Unfortunately it has started to rain and is decidedly murky. The wildflowers are looking lovely though, even in the murk.

I detour slightly off the path to visit a trig point, number S2518.

I follow a grassy slope and below me can be seen loads of pinnacles and stacks including Old Harry Rocks. These are all that remain of what was once a large stretch of chalk between Purbeck and the Isle of Wight. I should be able to see the Isle of Wight but it's way too murky.

As I'm looking out over Old Harry Rocks a Condor Ferries ferry passes me and then a much larger Brittany Ferries ferry, presumably off to Cherbourg.

I continue along the grassy slopes, enjoying more of the wildflowers.

I pass by Warren Wood, carefully managed by the National Trust to improve its wildlife value and promote the practice of traditional woodland craft.

I pass a sign for Joe's Cafe.

I head towards Studland. The rain stops and it looks like it's brightening up. This is a cue for all of the skylarks around here to burst into a racket of song. I drop down on to South Beach, which is empty except for a lone oystercatcher feeding in the shallows.

Somewhere just offshore can be found seahorses. Despite this, Studland Bay has still not been designated as a Marine Conservation Zone.

I wander along the sandy beach and then leave it next to Joe's Cafe. I head inland to Studland, passing the Bankes Arms Country Inn and the Isle of Purbeck Brewery (sadly reliant on Flash on their website I'm afraid) which I admire while standing next to an old ice cream van.

I pass the Pig Hotel, which was closed for refurbishment the last time I passed here and was called the Manor House Hotel.

I pass behind Fort Henry, a grade II listed observation bunker, built in 1943 to protect the bay from German invasion. In April 1944, Winston Churchill, King George VI, American General Eisenhower and the British General Montgomery came here to watch the combined power of the allied forces preparing for D-Day.

I leave the fort and wander down the beach access road to reach Middle Beach.

From here it's a two and a half mile stroll along the beach to reach South Haven Point.

WARNING - part of the beach is given over as a naturist beach. Fortunately it's not very warm due to a north easterly wind so the few people on the beach today are wrapped up warmly.

And that's it really! I wander along the sandy beach (which is covered in shells) to reach the end of the South West Coast Path at South Haven Point.

At South Haven Point I take time to photograph the sculpture marking the end of the path (or the beginning if you are walking in the other direction).

A coast path sign nearby lets me know that Minehead is 630 miles away - as if I didn't know that!

The Sandbanks chain ferry has just arrived next to me.

I gaze across the harbour over to Poole where I was born in Poole General Hospital exactly 51 years ago today.

“Happy birthday to me
Happy birthday to me
Happy birthday to me
Happy birthday to me.”

My lift awaits just up the road from the chain ferry.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
hogweed
herb bennett
wrens
chiff chaffs
herb robert
roses
skylarks
stonechats
honeysuckle
red valerian
rabbits
foxgloves
oystercatchers
sweet chestnuts
a song thrush
honesty
chaffinches
jellyfish
black headed gulls

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 8.4 miles today which amounts to 18104 steps. Rather a pathetic walk really! The weather has been pretty manky for much of the day's walk but it's been enjoyable anyway. Seven out of ten!

Hmmm. My Ordnance Survey app might actually have worked today. The total ascent today has been 232 feet or 70 metres.

MAP

worth matravers to swanage

May 13, 2018 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

monday, 7TH may 2018

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good, and I should have sun and very little wind all day long.

Swanage high tide 12:12

Swanage low tide 22:09

I attempted this walk back last June but had to abandon the walk in atrocious weather conditions so I'm back in much better weather to get this walk completed. In fact it's a glorious spring morning.

I start the day back at the Square and Compass pub in Worth Matravers.

I head back towards the car park and head down a footpath before reaching it. I amble along fields and then pass a quarry which might be Swanworth Quarry, where I see a hare. I reach a road and head up it towards Renscombe Farm.

I pass Renscombe Farm and reach a car park and follow a footpath to rejoin the coast path at West Hill. I've always fancied visiting Chapman's Pool but I've never found a path down. Today I can see a steep footpath cut into the cliff which looks like I can scramble down but I'll have to leave that for another day.

The rock around the bowl of Chapman's Pool is made of Kimmeridge Clay Shale and capped off with Portland Limestone laid down on the shale in a later period.

I come across limestone plaques set into the drystone walls of West Hill but I can't seem to find out any information about them. They are a bit worn now and it's difficult to make out the lettering but they read :-

“stones lean together

hand built strata

held by gravity

between turf and sky

dark brought to light

exposed to weather
”

Unfortunately I've joined the coast path too far up to see the 'stones lean together' plaque.

I then come across a war memorial, built by the Dorset branch of the Royal Marines Association in 1990. It pays tribute to the members of the Corps who have been killed since 1945. There is a special mention of those who died in the Falklands, in the Middle and Far East, in Northern Ireland and those who perished in the IRA bombing at the Royal Marines School of Music in Deal.

“Rest awhile and reflect that we who are living can enjoy the beauty of the sea and countryside.”

I amble along the clifftops at Emmetts Hill before dropping steeply downhill and then climbing a long flight of stone steps steeply up on to St Aldhelm's Head.

Here I find St Aldhelm's Chapel where I sheltered for a while last year before deciding to abandon the walk. The chapel is a square shape with its corners aligned approximately on the cardinal points, not the walls as is customary.

A bit further along I come across the St Alban's Head National Coastwatch Station. It's a long way from Hertfordshire but is named this way for maritime reasons.

Nearby is the Purbeck Radar Memorial, practically the only evidence that remains of the development of the radar here during the second world war by the Telecommunications Research Establishment. The memorial was dedicated by Sir Bernard Lovell on the 27th of October 2001 and again in September 2006.

It is now easy walking along the clifftops on my way to Swanage and I'm now walking through a quarried landscape where Purbeck marble was excavated from mediaeval times including for the pillars of Salisbury Cathedral.

I turn inland at Seacombe Cliff past more quarrying activity before turning back out onto the cliffs.

I pass above Dancing Ledge and come across a large patch of early spider orchids. I haven't seen these beauties for seven years.

I pass Blacken Hole and then a pair of mile indicator posts used by passing ships to measure their speed.

I come across a patch of green-winged orchids before entering Durlston Country Park.

I round Anvil Point to reach Anvil Point Lighthouse built out of the local limestone in 1881. Another pair of mile indicator posts can be found above the lighthouse.

I pass the entrance for Tilly Whim Caves quarried during the Napoleonic wars but closed by 1812. In 1887 they were opened as a tourist attraction but closed again in 1976 for safety reasons.

I round Durlston Head and pass Durlston Castle below which I can see the Great Globe, commissioned by George Burt, a sphere carved from 40 tonnes of Portland limestone and built in 15 segments at the Greenwich stoneyard of John Mowlem.

I pass through woodland, which is the first shade I've had today, and it is now easy walking into Swanage.

I head along Belle Vue Road and head across a grassy slope towards Peveril Point where I find Swanage National Coastwatch Station. I now have fine views over Swanage Bay and out to Old Harry Rocks and I can just make out the Isle of Wight in the haze, I think.

I join a concrete path next to the shore before joining the promenade which takes me into Swanage. I continue along the promenade passing the beaches which are heaving on this glorious day.

I end my walk at the clocktower. What a lovely day of walking.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

robins
pied wagtails
dunnocks
a hare
skylarks
wrens
speckled wood butterflies
roe deer
peacock butterflies
red admiral butterflies
lizards
swallows
chaffinches
swifts
stonechats
loads of caterpillars
oystercatchers

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.2 miles today which amounts to 25595 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking today. Nine out of ten!

Hmmm. My Ordnance Survey app is definitely playing up and the graph doesn't look anything like today's walk. The total ascent today has been a miserly 13 feet or 4 metres. Seriously Ordnance Survey! I know it has been a relatively gentle walk but 13 feet!!

This graph is much more like today's walk so I guess my total ascent has been 767 feet :-

MAP

uploders to seatown

May 12, 2018 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

via golden cap

sunday, 6TH MAY 2018

The weather this year has been particularly stinky but the weather forecast for this week looks pretty good. It should be warm and sunny today with virtually no wind so I can't complain.

Bridport high tide 10:44

Bridport low tide 16:11

I start the walk at our holiday cottage, Celtic Blessing, in the village of Uploders.

I wander along the quiet country road towards Loders but turn left along a footpath before reaching the adjoining village. The roadside verges are covered in wild flowers.

I climb up onto a rather muddy Boarsbarrow Hill and the paths are covered in stinky wild garlic. I can hear a woodpecker pecking away.

I pass Dalrymple Copse and join a small and rather muddy track called Green Lane which leads down to the busy A35 Dorchester Road.

I cross the A35 and head down a narrow path which leads me to a minor road. The road passes behind the cemetery but I head into Jellyfields Nature Reserve instead and amble along the paths next to streams, enjoying the birdsong.

I come to a wildflower meadow planted in 2014 and dedicated to the Bridport men who served in the Great War. It's supposed to be full of poppies and cornflowers but just seems to be a tangle of grass and nettles.

I follow Crock Lane and then cross the A35 again and enter Asker's Meadow Nature Reserve where I walk next to the River Asker. I pass behind the Morrison's superstore and cross over South Street to pass next to Palmers Brewery.

I cross over a weir over the River Brit and join a very familiar footpath which takes me back towards the centre of Bridport.

I walk through Bridport Community Orchard and then walk along South Street and West Street heading out of Bridport.

I leave West Street and head towards North Allington before following a footpath which rounds Allington Hill.

I come across another orchard, this time Jubilee Green Orchard where 24 fruit and deciduous trees were planted in 2012.

I continue along the footpath which takes me around and then over Allington Hill where I enjoy the wildflowers and bird song.

I pass by Crepe Farm and head into the village of Symondsbury where the Ilchester Arms can be found although I didn't see it. I'm joined in the village by a large walking group.

I leave Symondsbury and climb up onto the iconic Colmer's Hill, the lower slopes of which are covered in bluebells.

I have magnificent panoramic views over the Dorset countryside. I come across a trig point at 417 feet high in amongst a copse of nine pine trees. While enjoying the views I'm joined again by the walking group.

I descend Colmer's Hill and head along quiet lanes at Quarry Cross before joining Hell Lane, an ancient Holloway which leads me in to North Chideock. The lane is very muddy and deeply rutted and I make my way gingerly along it.

I come across a lone early purple orchid. There could be others around but I've been concentrating so much on staying upright on the path that I haven't been paying much attention to the flora and fauna.

The lane turns into a shallow stream and then, suddenly, turns into a tarmac road which leads me into North Chideock.

I follow the road down into Chideock where I pass the church before alighting on the busy A35 again.

I head out of Chideock down towards Seatown before following a footpath which climbs up to Langdon Hill.

It's now surprisingly easy climbing to join the South West Coast Path up to the top of the mighty Golden Cap.

I enjoy the magnificent views on the summit, to the west overlooking Charmouth and Lyme Regis and to the east over Seatown and West Bay and onwards towards the Isle of Portland in the distance. It's much busier up here than I've ever seen it before.

Golden Cap was given by members of the National Trust and friends in memory of The Earl of Antrim, chairman of the National Trust from 1960 until his death in 1977.

I descend Golden Cap and head towards Seatown where you can find the Anchor Inn and where my lift awaits.

It is heaving with people, presumably flushed out by the glorious weather on this sunny Sunday.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

herb bennett
bluebells
wild garlic
celandines
chiff chaffs
a woodpecker
great tits
pheasants
herb robert
swallows
song thrushes
long tailed tits
hawthorn
sheep
orange tip butterflies
early purple orchid

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11 miles today which amounts to 24524 steps. It has been lovely walking the Dorset countryside today in the best weather of the year. Nine out of ten!

According to my Ordnance Survey app my total ascent today has been 451 feet or 137 metres. Really OS? Colmer's Hill is 417 feet high and Golden Cap is 642 feet high. The app has proved to be useless again!

Another app I use to track my walks gives a better indication of today's elevation.

MAP

woolacombe to braunton

October 01, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

wednesday, 27th SEPTEMBER 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be on the ropey side and I can expect rain later in the day, a bit of wind and grey skies. It's not going to be very warm either.

Braunton high tide 11:01

Braunton low tide 17:14

A lot of today's walk will be spent trudging along sandy beaches, starting with Woolacombe Sands, followed by Putsborough Sands, then Croyde Beach and finally, possible a three mile trudge along Saunton Sands. It's a hard life but someone has to do the walking!

I start the day at Woolacombe where, except for a few dog walkers and joggers, I have the whole beach to myself. It's rather a nice start to the morning but I don't think it will last.

I head towards the sea before trudging along the beach for a good two miles.

The far end of Woolcaombe Sands leads directly into Putsborough Sands. There are quite a few surfers in the sea but they all seem to be old men with white hair.

At the end of the beach I leave the sand behind me and pass the refreshment hut before turning right onto a track over Napps Cliff. The views looking back over Putsborough Sands to Woolacombe Sands are lovely.

A grassy path goes through several stiles and onwards towards Baggy Point and there are signs of sheep with wool caught in the gorse and pooh everywhere.

I come across a memorial bench which has a magnificent view and a fitting sentiment.

“Nanna + Grampie
Here is a good place to sit and chat
About love and dreams and stuff like that”

It is starting to spit rain and the wind has picked up. The path becomes a lot rockier around Baggy Point before heading back in the opposite direction towards Croyde Bay.

I have one last view back over Putsborough Sands and Woolacombe Sands. It could be a while before I'm back this way again.

I now have views over Croyde. The skies look quite nice but the rain has picked up and it's not very warm.

I pass a restored pond, built by the Hyde family who were keen conservationists.

The path passes a preserved whalebone of a large whale that was washed up on Croyde beach in 1915. They were preserved by the Hyde family who gave Baggy Point to the National Trust in May 1939.

The path joins the road around Croyde Bay and at the National Trust car park I duck down on to Croyde Beach and head out across the sandy beach. It's now extremely windy. Although it's still early it's quite busy and there are plenty of surfers enjoying the waves here.

At the far end of the beach I climb a flight of steps and head along the coast where I pass a memorial to Joel Sanders. A quick internet search doesn't reveal any information about the gloves.

I briefly walk along the road and then cross the road to follow a grassy path above the road.

I now have lovely, but grey, views overlooking the large expanse of Saunton Sands before climbing down to the road at the Saunton Sands Hotel.

I manage to find the path behind the hotel and pass a tennis court, adventure playground and putting greens before dropping down to the beach cafe and car park.

There are colourful beach huts at the start of Saunton Sands which look even shabbier than I remember them.

I now have a decision to make. The official coast path heads inland and across a golf course but I usually walk along the three miles of sandy beach along Saunton Sands. Although it's not blowing an almighty gale I'm wet and cold and could do with some respite from the wind so I decide to follow the official coast path which I haven't walked in years.

I follow the car park access road inland before following a muddy path to the right. This rejoins the main road and I follow this, passing St Anne's Church and the entrance to Saunton Golf Club.

A coast path sign points to the right and I follow this path which then heads across the golf course. It has started chucking it down now. The path leaves the golf course and a military training area is now on my right. No training is taking place today.

I come to Sandy Lane Car Park and then head off down American Road. It is now a dreary walk along the road which just seems to keep on going. I can't win. If the wind subsides it is replaced by rain and when the rain stops the wind picks up again.

I walk behind Braunton Burrows which was declared Britain's first UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in November 2002. It's a rather lovely place when the sun is out but is decidedly murky today.

I'm now approaching the coast again where the estuaries of the rivers Taw and Torridge meet. I follow an embankment around Horsey Island, built in 1857 to reclaim the marshland. I'm now exposed to the wind again and am thoroughly damp. The embankment continues inland along the River Caen.

I reach Velator Quay, a rather stinky dump and my destination for the day! The old quay was constructed in 1870 as part of the marsh reclamation scheme. My lift awaits in the car park here.

It's time to stop off for some chips in Braunton to warm up a bit and then a couple of bottles of Doombar are chilling in the fridge back at our holiday cottage. The walk from Saunton Sands to Braunton has been thoroughly dreary but, heigh ho!, the rest of the week has been thoroughly pleasant.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

mermaid's purse
turnstones
herb robert
gorse
common toadflax
ragwort
knapweed
sea thrift
red campion
sea aster
red admirals
large-flowered evening-primrose
fennel
curlews
common dog-violet (although I'm not sure why it's flowering in September)

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.5 miles today which amounts to 32397 steps. The start of the walk was lovely walking along long sandy beaches but it's let down by a dreary section of the coast path walked in dreary weather. Seven out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 305 feet or 93 metres.