lynmouth to combe martin

October 01, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SunDAY, 24th SEPTEMBER 2017

Today's weather forecast doesn't look particularly good with rain forecast for all day but at least there should barely be any wind. Don't recall saying that much this year.

Ilfracombe high tide 09:12

Ilfracombe low tide tide 14:59

I start the morning back at the car park above Lynmouth next to the River Lyn.

I walk down towards the harbour and head through a gap between the Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre and the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway.

I head up some steps and then zig zag along a tarmac path, crossing over the Cliff Railway as I go. I spot a robin with an enormous worm in its beak.

I pass pieces of poetry as I zig zag along the path. The Poetry Box Project resided in Valley of Rocks over the three summer months of 2014 when over 2000 poems were amassed. The poems I'm passing must be as a result of this project.

At the top I have magnificent views over Lynmouth. The weather isn't actually too bad.

I follow a minor road running between the Fairholme Hotel and North Cliff Hotel where I cross over the Cliff Railway again. I pass Hewitt's Villa Spaldi and The Seawood Hotel.

For centuries this road had been used to transport goods from Lynmouth harbour up to Lynton. Before 1810 there were no wheeled vehicles and packhorses struggled up the cliff loaded down with lime from Lynmouth's kiln. They also carried coal and roof slates from Wales and foodstuffs from Bristol.

Work started on the cliff railway in 1887. Bridges had to be built at places where the excavations cut through the path. The railway was opened in 1890.

I amble along North Walk and before I've even walked through the gate to exit Lynton I come across feral goats greeting me just past the gate.

The gate leads out onto steep, rocky slopes along a path and the cliffs are covered in feral goats munching on the bracken.

The paths are covered in goat pooh. I follow a fork in the path to the right and suddenly have lovely views over Castle Rock. It really is rather a pleasant morning.

The path heads towards a road at the Valley of Rocks.

I head along the road which leads through the Lee Abbey Estate. Lee Abbey is to my right and is home to a Christian community that hosts retreats, holidays and conferences.

I pass Beacon Activity Centre which was opened in 2004 to host exciting breaks for groups of all ages.

I pass a cow who doesn't look particularly pleased to see me.

I pass the entrance to Lee Abbey.

For some reason I've always managed to go wrong here in the past. I can sort of see why as the coast path signs are obscured further down the road than the main set of signs which I've previously followed incorrectly.

I'm not going to go wrong today so continue along the coast road and pass Lee Abbey Tea Cottage. There's a rather lovely garden outside of the cottage.

I follow the road until a path leads through the woods and around Crock Point before entering woods again and I then climb down some steps

A steep climb through woods takes me back up to the road and I head for Woody Bay where I turn right into woods before reaching Woody Bay Hotel. I have occasional glimpses of the sea and cliffs.

I follow a muddy and wet woodland track through Woody Bay and come to a minor road at a cottage.

A sign helpfully shows me the way to Iceland, Russia, America and New Zealand.

I follow the road up to a bend before climbing a rocky woodland path. I have magnificent if increasing murky views back along the coast.

The path climbs downhill and I cross Hollow Brook next to a waterfall before heading out over open slopes above the towering cliffs.

A rocky path takes me across a steep slope of heather and I have magnificent, but even murkier, views.

I reach Heddon's Mouth where the path slices down a steep stony slope and enters woods. I head inland next to a river and cross a stone footbridge before heading down the other side of the river.

I turn a sharp left and head upstream and inland. I head up a wooded slope and through a gate and start zig zagging up a steep slope covered in bracken before heading back to the coast high above Heddon's Mouth. It is quite a trek down and back up.

I climb up a steep rocky slope covered in heather and have more magnificent views over the cliffs.

I come across a sign saying 'Please donate to preserve the endangered Exmoor pony and help preserve these paths and lands. Thank you.' I pop a coin in the slot. Thank you Exmoor ponies.

The fields here are covered in sheep. I follow an easy, grassy path at East Cleave and continue along the path at North Cleave.

I cross a field before climbing up onto a rugged moorland slope covered in gorse and heather. It starts to rain lightly which cools me down. I follow a track across Holdstone Down where I pass the same man as I passed on yesterday's walk. I can now see out over Great Hangman. It is rather murky and misty.

I start to climb uphill and inland and then steeply descend into a valley where I cross a footbridge over a stream at Sherrycombe.

I climb steeply up the other side of the vally rounding some woodland before climbing up a slope covered in gorse. It's a very steep climb and I get sweaty and puffed out. There are sheep all over the slopes beneath me. Quite how they get herded up I do not know.

I follow an easier track surrounded by heather up on to the top of Great Hangman where I come across a cairn. I'm now at 1043 feet and on the highest point on the entire South West Coast Path and take in all of the (misty and murky) views.

I follow a path downhill towards the much smaller Little Hangman before climbing up and down and up and down along the cliffs. I now have views over Combe Martin.

The path now goes through trees before swinging left downhill and at the bottom i turn right to reach my destination for the day, Combe Martin. I drop down to enjoy the beach before heading for the car park where my lift awaits. It has been a wild and rugged rollercoaster of a day and thoroughly enjoyable.

Combe Martin is often quoted as being the longest village in the UK but, even though at a mile and a half long it's pretty long, it's not. That accolade falls to Stewkley in Buckinghamshire.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

robin with big worm
herb robert
squirrels
oaks
beech
holly
buddleia
sweet chestnuts
feral goats
red campion
foxgloves
ragwort
cows
sheep
geraniums
red valerian
hydrangeas
crocosmia
pheasants
red admirals
small tortoiseshells
a hare

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.5 miles today which amounts to 35257 steps. It has been a lovely day of walking. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed again. It has been a rough and tumble ride today though, including climbing the highest point on the south west coast path, so that'll make a big total ascent.

I've only recently realized that one of the apps on my phone I use for tracking me also records elevation information so here's a graph of today's walk. That's quite a hike!

MAP

porlock weir to lynmouth

October 01, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 23rd september 2017

Today's weather forecast looks like it might actually be quite nice today. Very light winds which is unheard of at the moment with our constant gales and even possibly a bit of sun and some warmth. Can't complain.

Porlock Bay high tide 09:07

Porlock Bay low tide 14:53

I start the day next to the pebbly beach in Porlock Weir. I pass by the tiny harbour and pick up the coast path as it leaves Porlock Weir between the Bottom Ship Inn and the Millers at the Anchor hotel.

The path climbs gently uphill before I turn right along the Worthy Combe Toll Road. I reach a two arched toll gate. The toll road goes through the left arch but I continue along the coast path through the right arch.

“Worthy Combe Toll Road
No responsibility attaches to the owner of this road for any carnage or injury suffered by any person using this road from any cause whatsoever whether due to the said owners negligence, non-feasance or misfeasance or to the state of the road or of anything near the said road or overhanging the same or otherwise, and all persons using the said road in any manner do so entirely at their own risk.”

Needless to say, at this early hour, there's no one about to collect a toll but a couple of dogs do come and bark at me. They are friendly enough though.

I continue climbing through woods full of sweet chestnuts and pass under two arches before continuing along a footpath which crosses a stream and then leads me to teeny Culbone Church.

A community of monks was established here in the fifth century, and the first church was built on the site two centuries later, possibly with an Anchorite cell attached. It is thought that parts of the current church, St Beuno's, date back to Saxon times, although over the centuries it has been rebuilt and refenestrated numerous times.

An information sheet obtained from within the porch tells me that the church is the smallest complete parish church in the country and that it is mentioned in the Domesday Book and the Guiness Book of Records. St Beuno is apparently pronounced "Bayno"!

I explore the churchyard here before heading back to the coast path where I come across a friendly robin who sings for me. I start climbing again. A sign warns me that the path ahead is prone to subsidence. I head through Culbone Wood which leads me to Sugarloaf Hill. The woods are thick so I don't see much in the way of features but it's a thoroughly pleasant walk along muddy woodland tracks passing streams and landslips.

I pass a sign for Glenthorne Beach, a beach covered in rock sized pebbles, but I've no idea how far down I'd have to trek to get to the beach.

I cross over a stream and round the slopes of Sugarloaf Hill. I cross another stream and pass a pinetum containing Wellingtonias.

I cross another stream at Coscombe and I've now crossed over from Somerset to Devon.

I pass Sisters Fountain marked by a stone cross. An elaborate structure was built over the spring in the 19th century and named Sisters Fountain because the owner's nieces liked to play in the vicinity. Joseph of Arimathea is alleged to have struck his staff on the ground here, causing the spring to start flowing. Sounds like a load of old nonsense to me!

I climb uphill to reach a track that passes through stone pillars topped by wild boar heads.

It has been a lonely trek so far but a runner passes me and greets me 'good morning'.

I pass a house with odd birdtables and birdbaths outside and, at the entrance to Glenthorne House, I leave the track and head along a muddy narrow path.

I get some glimpses of sea before crossing a couple of streams and cross over woody and scrubby slopes at Glenthorne Cliffs.

I cross another stream at Swannel Combe and then reach Chubhill Combe where I come across Rodney Cottage Walkers' Honesty Cafe (@ExmoorNature). I find a flask of hot water, cups, stirrers, sugar, cool drinks, chairs and a table. How sweet! All proceeds go towards feeding the woodland birds.

I climb over a stile and have magnificent views back along the North Devon and Somerset coast.

A track leads me through ground strewn with stones and covered in bracken, hawthorn and gorse. This leads me to a bend on a narrow road.

I walk down the road and cross a bridge over a stream. The coast path signs have dried up (or I've missed them) so I continue along the road hoping I'm going in the right direction. The cliffs around here are MASSIVE!

I pass Foreland Bothy and reach the National Trust cottages at Foreland Point and the path ends. I have definitely come the wrong way.

I spot a sign warning me that the path ahead is narrow and exposed and prone to falling scree. Maybe this is the coast path?

I start to climb up it but I don't recognize it. The path starts to climb very steeply up and over Foreland Point. I pass high above the lighthouse. It's quite a climb up a narrow path and it becomes increasing scary as it's a long way down the scree covered cliffs.

I continue up the path and make it up to the top without falling into the sea. I'm now a long way up and have magnificent views over to Lynmouth and Lynton.

I now come across coast path signs again and I indeed have gone the wrong way.

I cross grassy slopes towards Countisbury where I walk through the grounds of St John the Evangelist to reach the Blue Ball Inn.

I retrace my steps through the churchyard and the coast path runs below the main road. It's quite a descent along muddy and slippery paths down from the towering cliffs into Lynmouth. I briefly walk along the road before I drop down to the right and climb down steps on a wooded slope. I zig zag down through a beech wood which leads me out on to the path above Lynmouth Beach.

I follow the road through a park and cross a footbridge over the River Lyn. I pass the tiny harbour to reach my destination for the day, Lynmouth.

Lynmouth was wrecked by a devastating flood in August 1952 which killed 34 people and destroyed more than a hundred buildings.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

japanese anemones
robins
pheasants
buddleia
herb robert
red campion
periwinkle
oaks
sweet chestnuts
holly
foxgloves
beech
rhododendrons
gorse
heather
red admirals
speckle wood butterflies
grasshoppers

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.6 miles today which amounts to 29906 steps. That's not a very long way today but the weather has been decent and the walking spectacular. Nine out of ten!

Hooray!! My Ordnance Survey app has finally recorded a route. My total ascent today has been 1103 feet or 336 metres.

MAP

st helen's to chale

September 17, 2017 by Mark Seymour in isle of wight coast path

ISLE OF WIGHT COAST PATH

wednesday, 13TH SEPTEMBER 2017

Today's weather forecast doesn't look too bad. It's not going to be particularly warm and it'll be a bit blustery but I should have a fair amount of sun during the day.

Sandown low tide 10:32

Sandown high tide 17:01

I leave our holiday cottage in St Helen's first thing in the morning and immediately head out around Bembridge Harbour.

I head along embankment road and pass some houseboats, many of them up for sale. I also pass Brading Haven Yacht Club, Bembridge Sailing Club and the Tollgate Cafe.

At the Pilot Boat Inn I detour off of the coast path and wander down Beach Road. I head out onto Bembridge Point Beach hoping that I can walk all the way along the beach. I walk along a narrow strip of fine, golden sand. That's a rather nice start to the day! I drop into conversation with a woman walking her dog who has just moved from Ryde to Bembridge. That's quite a hefty move!

It does indeed look like I can walk along the beach so I keep walking. I climb up onto the sea wall and pass the Lifeboat View Cafe before reaching Bembridge Lifeboat Station. The lifeboat station was established in 1867.

I drop down to the beach again on the other side of the lifeboat station and continue on the pebbly beach around Bembridge Foreland. The low cliffs are heavily eroded and some diggers are making repairs to the sea defences. I pass the Crab and Lobster Inn.

It's a beautiful morning and I'm beginning to like this walk!

I continue along the coast path where I have a lovely view over Whitecliff Bay and the cliff is indeed white.

I leave the village of Bembridge and head along muddy paths towards Whitecliff Bay where I come across Whitecliff Bay Holiday Park.

I descend down a steep concrete path to reach the beach at Whitecliff Bay where I enjoy the sand and shingle beach even though I'm technically trespassing.

I head back up the concrete path and continue on my way and onto Culver Down where I have lovely views back over Whitecliff Bay.

I come across the Yarborough Monument, a memorial to Charles Anderson-Pelham, the second Baron Yarborough, founder of the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes. The monument was originally erected in 1849 on the highest point on Bembridge Down but moved to this location in the 1860s when Bembridge Fort was built.

I pass by the Culver Haven Inn at the end of the down and then continue on my way, walking across the southern tip of Bembridge Down where I can spy Bembridge Fort on the summit.

I wander along the top of Red Cliff and have lovely views over Sandown and Shanklin.

I pass the village of Yaverland where I follow the footpath down to Yaverland Beach. And what a lovely beach! The golden sand stretches back all the way to the chalk cliffs of Culver Down and behind me the orange sandstone cliffs gradually increase in height as they gradually move to white chalk.

I amble happily along the golden sands towards Sandown climbing over or walking through the groynes.

The groynes become too high to clamber over so I walk up steps to the sea wall and walk along the coast path towards Sandown where I pass the Isle of Wight Zoo. My sister says it's rubbish!

I drop down to the beach again at Sandown and amble along the golden sands towards the pier wending my way up and down the groynes. I rather like Sandown Beach!

Unexpectedly, the weather closes in and it starts to rain.

Sandown Pier is rather shabby looking today - there's nothing wrong with that! - but when it was built in 1876 it must have been a graceful structure. I wander around the amusement arcade here for a bit, avoiding the rain.

I head past the pier. Bizarrely the official coast path climbs steeply back up onto the cliffs and heads through Ferncliff Gardens before following a concrete path along the tops of the cliffs all the way to Shanklin.

However, it looks like I can walk all the way along the revetment from Sandown to Shanklin. The weather is properly manky as I trudge along the concrete. The groynes are rather high at Shanklin Beach so I stick to the seawall where I come across some dreaded japanese knotweed. The weather suddenly improves again.

I pass some kind of dinosaur park but have absolutely no idea what it's called and a quick internet search doesn't reveal any details.

I climb up the road and head along East Cliff Promenade where I pass Shanklin Lift which takes visitors down onto the beach from the cliffs. The lift has recently been refurbished.

I pass the Chine Inn and then Shanklin Chine, opened to the public in 1817.

The coastal path signs dry up and the path is very confusing but a helpful man at the pub points me in the right direction. I climb down steps, pass Fisherman's Cottage and head along the beach for a bit before climbing up Appley Steps.

I walk along the road heading towards Luccombe Village where I pass Luccombe Hall and Bourne Hall. I follow a coastal path sign over a stile and slither through a disgusting swampy area which I could have avoided by just following the road. Mud almost comes over the top of my boots.

I walk through woodland at The Landslip, presumably named because the coast here is rather prone to erosion and landslides.

I trudge along the muddy paths before passing a wishing seat and coming across St Boniface Church above the village of Bonchurch, rebuilt in 1070.

It starts to rain again as i reach the sea wall at Bonchurch and it has become very blustery. I wasn't expecting this! It is a soggy walk along the seawall to Wheelers Bay. I pass Bonchurch Pottery and then come across some mosaics of glanville fritillary butterflies. This is one of the few locations in the UK where they exist. My butterfly guide says that it only occurs in a few locations on the Isle of Wight.

I come across the start of Stokey's Solar System Walk, a walk marked out on the scale of 1 inch to 100,000 miles.

I start the walk at the sun and pass signs for all of the planets before reaching Pluto. Stokey Woodall clearly has a much bigger stride than me!

The coast path continues along the seawall to reach Ventnor where I pass The Millbay and a rather sorry looking amusement arcade. I pass the Esplanade Clock, erected in 1870, to give the time, even on cloudy days. Unfortunately, it's telling the wrong time!

I pass the Spyglass Inn and the weather is starting to improve again so I have a last view back over Ventnor.

The coastal path signs have run out again. Do I head up the road through Ventnor. I've no idea. I head through a car park and luckily regain the coast path.

I pass a sign for a dinosaur labyrinth. The labyrinth is the full size and shape of a diplodocus.

I head along the low cliff path and pass Flowers Brook, fed by two springs which flow from the downs above.

I walk along the sea defences at Castle Cove before reaching Steephill Cove and I climb steeply up a path behind the cove before climbing steps.

The coast path takes me past Ventnor Botanic Garden, sheltered by The Undercliff and basking in a warm and sunny microclimate.

I head along the cliffs where a fiddly path makes my walking pole strapped to my bag constantly catch the vegetation. I'm forced inland to reach the village of St Lawrence where I walk along Woolverton Road, Undercliffs, Spindlers Road and then Seven Sisters Road and then ascend steeply up High Hat where I have spectacular views back across St Lawrence.

The weather deteriorates and it is now extremely blustery and chucking it down. I follow the V71 and NT29 footpaths towards the village of Niton.

I continue along the low cliffs and emerge onto the A3055 which I follow sharply right and then head off of the road immediately left up a track. I now have lovely views over St Catherine's Point, the southernmost tip of the island, with its resident lighthouse.

I can now see the chalk cliffs of High Down and should have lovely views over the south west coast and over Blackgang Chine but the weather is filthy.

I lose coastal path signs again and follow probably the wrong path down to the car park at Blackgang Chine. Due to many landslips Blackgang Chine no longer exists but it is now the home of the UK's oldest amusement park.

I follow the car park up to the A3055 and walk along the road before a footpath takes me to my destination for the day, the oddly placed car park at Chale, where my lift awaits.

The weather has been all over the place today but it has been a thoroughly enjoyable walk. I have conquered the entire coast of the Isle of Wight!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

oaks
oystercatchers
a little egret
red valerian
swans
fennel
housemartins
hips and haws
sloes
blackberries
clover
peregrines
sea aster
hydrangeas
red hot pokers
japanese knotweed
red admirals
rosebay willowherb
japanese anemones
cyclamen

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 21.1 miles today which amounts to 48824 steps. That's a long way again. Despite some passages of filthy weather it has been a lovely day of walking. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed for a third consecutive day. More than previous days but still not very taxing.

MAP

yarmouth to chale

September 17, 2017 by Mark Seymour in isle of wight coast path

ISLE OF WIGHT COAST PATH

tuesday, 12TH SEPTEMBER 2017

It looks like I might be in for quite a nice day today. It's not going to break temperature records but it should be bright and sunny all day.

Yarmouth low tide 08:49

Yarmouth high tide 15:26

I start the day back in Yarmouth next to Yarmouth Pier, built in 1876 to allow ferries from Lymington to dock.

I head in a westerly direction and head behind Yarmouth Castle, the last addition to Henry VIII's coastal defences and completed after his death in 1547.

I round the harbour passing the lifeboat and a gribble seat.

The gribble seat was created in 2008 as part of the project to save Yarmouth Pier. In 2008, 54 of the wooden piles along the length of the pier were replaced after they had been eaten away by gribble.

I cross the swing bridge over the Western Yar and then head out along a footpath next to the sea. At the end of the sea wall I head through some woodland and then head along a track through Fort Victoria Country Park, passing inland of Fort Victoria.

The fort was built to guard the Solent from French invasion and now houses the Underwater Archaeology Centre, a planetarium and a model railway.

I climb some steps and now have lovely views over to Hurst Castle, the closest point on the mainland, about three quarters of a mile away.

I continue along the path and have lovely, if brief, views over Colwell Bay and Totland Bay and I can see the Tennyson Monument on the top of Tennyson Down on the other side of the island. I can also make out the Needles, consisting of three distinct chalk stacks.

I reach the entrance to Linstone Chine Holiday Village but am routed around it for some reason. I come across butterflies fluttering in the wind including a wall brown butterfly and a speckled wood.

I then walk through Brambles Chine Holiday Park which looks thoroughly grim.

I've barely seen the sea since leaving Yarmouth so I am now desperate for a bit of coast. I head down to the shoreline, hoping that the tide is out so I can walk along the beach. It is! The bit of concrete leading to the beach is slippery and I make a graceless entrance to the beach sliding down on my arse. I can now clearly see the Needles in the distance.

I walk along the beach, clambering over the groynes headed for the colourful beach huts on Colwell Bay.

I can look back to Fort Albert which I mistakingly call Fort Victoria in the podcast.

I head inland slightly at a bit of wrecked seawall before heading along the sea wall towards ramshackle Totland Pier.

The pier has fallen into disrepair in recent years and my notes say that it is finally being refurbished. My notes are wrong! It looks like a gust of wind could take the whole pier into the sea.

It's rather lovely around here. I pass the Totland Pier Cafe and The Waterfront. I pass the old lifeboat station which was in use between 1885 and 1924.

I continue along the sea wall and climb some steps up to the road which climbs uphill steeply and head along a footpath at Headon Warren before climbing onto the top of Headon Warren where I have magnificent views.

I head off of the ridge and head towards Alum Bay where I reach the entrance to Needles Park. I'd take the chairlift down to the beach but my head for heights is rubbish.

I walk through the theme park and head back up onto the cliffs where I have a lovely view over Alum Bay.

I head along White Cliffs towards the Needles and Old Battery, completed in 1863. I now have magnificent views over Scratchell's Bay.

I pass next to New Battery, completed in 1895 to replace the crumbling Old Battery, and latterly used as a site for testing intercontinental ballistic missiles and then space rockets.

I now have the best view of the needles I'm going to get.

I retrace my steps and it's time to change direction and I start walking in an easterly direction along the ridge of West High Down. It is a pleasant but uneventful walk towards Freshwater Bay.

I continue along Tennyson Down where I come across a half size replica of the ancient navigation sea mark known as the Nodes Beacon which used to stand where the Tennyson Monument now stands..

I climb up Tennyson Down and the views back over West High Down are magnificent.

I pass by the Tennyson Monument, a granite cross erected in 1897 in the memory of Alfred, Lord Tennyson and then head along the ridge of Tennyson Down above the chalk cliffs and pass inland of Fort Redoubt, another fort built to defend against the French.

I continue along Tennyson Down and have lovely views over Freshwater Bay.

I pass a man strimming grass and then a party of school children. I head along the sea wall and then climb steps out of Freshwater Bay.

I now have magnificent views back over Freshwater Bay and the white cliffs.

I come across a memorial to a dead child. There's no name but the initials E.L.M. and the age 15.

“Erected in remembrance of a most dear and only child who was suddenly removed into eternity by a fall from the adjacent cliff on the rocks beneath 28 August 1846.

Reader prepare to meet thy God for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth.”

I head along the low cliffs below the busy A3055 and head behind Compton Down where I have magnificent views over Compton Bay.

I pass through a car park at Shippards Chine. It's rather eroded here and some of the parking spaces seem to have been lost to the sea.

I could climb down some steps here to reach the shoreline which is one of the best beaches to spot dinosaur fossils at low tide but it's getting on and I've still got a bit of walking to do.

I continue along the low cliffs which are now made of clay and rather fragile and head along Brook Bay. I reach the car park at Brook Chine and then head out along Roughland Cliff.

I skirt around Chilton Chine and come across a herd of very friendly cows.

I then come across the Isle of Wight Pearl, dedicated to the art of pearl jewellery.

I walk through a rather faded holiday park and then the wildlife and fauna conservation area at Grange Farm. There are bird boxes, bee boxes and bug houses dotted around the farm.

I now negotiate a series of chines, starting with Grange Chine and followed by Barnes Chine, Cowleaze Chine and Shepherd's Chine. The cliffs are crumbling away and the sea is coloured the same brown as the cliffs.

I head towards Whale Chine, the largest of the chines I've come across. There's a set of steps down to the beach but they are off limits as the chine is closed due to erosion.

I have to round this chine and at its head pass through the car park next to the busy Military Road (A3055). This road was built in the 1930s, following the coastline from Chale to Freshwater Bay and is under constant threat from erosion.

I head back along the other side of Whale Chine to reach the coast again and head towards my destination for the day, the village of Chale. I pass the Wight Mouse Inn followed by the St Andrew's Church and the village school and then the other side of the pub to reach an oddly placed car park where my lift awaits.

It has been a spectacular day of walking.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red admirals
marestail
oaks
hips
honeysuckle
fuchsias
pheasants
wall brown butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
comma butterflies
buddleia
ragwort
heather
rosebay willowherb

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 21.8 miles today which amounts to 48097 steps. That's quite a long way for me. It has been cold and blustery but the walking has been fantastic and I've actually walked along quite a bit of coastline today. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed me for a second day running. It hasn't been much though.

MAP

west cowes to yarmouth

September 16, 2017 by Mark Seymour in isle of wight coast path

isle of wight COAST PATH

sunday, 10TH september 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be OK although it's a bit on the cold side and a bit too blustery for me.

Cowes low tide 07:46

Cowes high tide 14:18

I start the day back in Cowes at the car park above the ferry terminal before walking down the road to reach the Red Jet terminal where the ferry crosses over to Southampton.

I wander along the High Street before turning into Watchouse Lane and wander down the Esplanade headed towards Cowes Castle, home to the Royal Yacht Squadron.

The castle was built in 1539 as part of Henry VIII's chain of coastal defences.

I continue along Egypt Esplanade passing a series of lions.

I reach the lighthouse on Egypt Point, the northenmost point on the Isle of Wight. The lighthouse was first established by the Corporation of Trinity House in 1897 to provide a guide to those navigating the Solent and was discontinued in 1989.

I continue ambling out of Cowes to reach the Watersedge Beach Cafe in the village of Gurnard.

I climb up through the village and then turn down a footpath signed as Winding Way. I turn into Solent View Road and have a rubbish view across The Solent. I pass the Little Gloster Restaurant and Bar.

I cross Gurnard Luck over a footbridge and follow muddy footpaths infested with stinging nettles that climb up onto the low cliffs where I have magnificent views over Gurnard Bay and over to the mainland.

I amble leisurely along the cliffs, passing Gurnard Ledge before coming across lovely views over Thorness Bay before descending down to the beach, not named on my Ordnance Survey map but is known simply as Thorness Bay Beach.

I amble along the beach and ascend a grassy slope headed inland. I pass through the grounds of Thorness Bay Holiday Park and head inland along muddy footpaths through fields.

I turn right onto a minor road at Buntshill Farm and follow this road to the village of Porchfield where I pass the Sportman's Rest pub.

I continue out of the village and come across a road closure.

Fortunately I can still walk down the road and I cross over Clamerkin Brook where bridge strengthening works are taking place.

I pass Clamerkin Farm, now owned by the National Trust, and skirt around Walter's Copse and follow rubbish yellow arrows through Newtown Meadows, a series of lovely meadows enclosed by hedges. These provided grazing land for centuries of farmers.

I head towards Newtown, once a thriving settlement but now just a small hamlet. I emerge onto a lane next to what was once the Newtown Arms Inn but closed in 1916.

I head down past the Old Town Hall, a rather grand affair for such a tiny place, restored in 1813 and again in the 1930s and pass some black sheep grazing in long grass before crossing a bridge over a brook feeding into Causeway Lake.

I follow the road out of Newtown heading even further inland so as to round the various tributaries of Newtown Harbour.

I follow footpaths next to the minor road as well as sections of the road and walk through a field of corn before crossing a footbridge over a stream, where i pass Shalfleet Mill, on the way towards Shalfleet. I walk along the quiet road passing the rather lovely The New Inn.

I turn onto the main road and pass St Michael the Archangel and the village shop and outside the village turn right back onto a footpath.

I'm now a long way inland but I start heading back out towards the coast. I cross Ningwood Lake (apparently - it just seems to be a river tributary) and pass Pigeon Coo Farm, Forestview Farm and Lower Hamstead Farm along a track through woods. I now have magnificent, if murky, views over Newtown Harbour. The harbour seems to be vast.

I cross a number of dodgy boardwalks over water and cross through fields to regain the coast at Hamstead Point. I thought I was still miles inland but am suddenly spat out onto the coast.

I amble along the stony beach at Hamstead Ledge and somehow manage to miss a Celtic cross, a memorial to two young friends and a third young man who drowned in two separate boating accidents near here in the 1930s.

“IN LOVING MEMORY OF DAVID GEORGE COX AGED 20 LOST AT SEA OFF HAMSTEAD LEDGE WITH HIS FRIEND WILLIAM PATRICK HOPE POLLOCK AGED 20 ON NOV 27 1932
THE SEA IS HIS

ROBIN MURRAY COX AGE 21 LOST AT SEA JUNE 2 1934 IN DEATH THEY ARE NOT DIVIDED
GOD GIVE THEM REST
”

The path heads back inland through fields and I pass Hamstead Farm and West Hamstead Farm before entering Bouldnor Forest or Bouldnor Copse as it's marked on my Ordnance Survey map and how the Forestry Commission call it.

Red squirrels abound here and the trees are full of crossbills, goldcrests and ravens. I keep my eyes peeled but see and hear nothing! I enjoy my amble through the forest before regaining the coast.

I continue through woodland to reach the Newport to Yarmouth A3054 which I follow towards Yarmouth. At the village of Bouldnor I come across a car park and viewpoint. The view is rubbish and all I see is vegetation. Just past the car park I climb down steps to the reach the shoreline again.

I now follow the sea wall into Yarmouth and head below Yarmouth Common and follow the High Street into the centre of Yarmouth, passing 18th and 19th century houses as well as shops and restaurants. It's rather lovely around here even if the weather is rather murky now.

It's now chucking it down and blowing a gale so I briefly venture out onto the grade 2 listed pier before finding shelter from the wind and rain and heading off to the car park where my lift awaits. What a thoroughly lovely day even though the weather hasn't been great and the promised coastal path was more of an inland stroll!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

oaks
wisteria
rosemary
sunflowers
red admirals
jays
goldfinches
cuttlefish
swallows
sloes
hips and haws
honeysuckle
bistort
cows
black sheep
peacock butterflies
speckled wood butterflies

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 17.5 miles today which amounts to 40065 steps. It has been cold and blustery but the walking has been lovely even tough the walking has been largely inland. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed me. It hasn't been much though.