ISLE OF WIGHT COAST PATH

wednesday, 13TH SEPTEMBER 2017

Today's weather forecast doesn't look too bad. It's not going to be particularly warm and it'll be a bit blustery but I should have a fair amount of sun during the day.

Sandown low tide 10:32

Sandown high tide 17:01

I leave our holiday cottage in St Helen's first thing in the morning and immediately head out around Bembridge Harbour.

I head along embankment road and pass some houseboats, many of them up for sale. I also pass Brading Haven Yacht Club, Bembridge Sailing Club and the Tollgate Cafe.

At the Pilot Boat Inn I detour off of the coast path and wander down Beach Road. I head out onto Bembridge Point Beach hoping that I can walk all the way along the beach. I walk along a narrow strip of fine, golden sand. That's a rather nice start to the day! I drop into conversation with a woman walking her dog who has just moved from Ryde to Bembridge. That's quite a hefty move!

It does indeed look like I can walk along the beach so I keep walking. I climb up onto the sea wall and pass the Lifeboat View Cafe before reaching Bembridge Lifeboat Station. The lifeboat station was established in 1867.

I drop down to the beach again on the other side of the lifeboat station and continue on the pebbly beach around Bembridge Foreland. The low cliffs are heavily eroded and some diggers are making repairs to the sea defences. I pass the Crab and Lobster Inn.

It's a beautiful morning and I'm beginning to like this walk!

I continue along the coast path where I have a lovely view over Whitecliff Bay and the cliff is indeed white.

I leave the village of Bembridge and head along muddy paths towards Whitecliff Bay where I come across Whitecliff Bay Holiday Park.

I descend down a steep concrete path to reach the beach at Whitecliff Bay where I enjoy the sand and shingle beach even though I'm technically trespassing.

I head back up the concrete path and continue on my way and onto Culver Down where I have lovely views back over Whitecliff Bay.

I come across the Yarborough Monument, a memorial to Charles Anderson-Pelham, the second Baron Yarborough, founder of the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes. The monument was originally erected in 1849 on the highest point on Bembridge Down but moved to this location in the 1860s when Bembridge Fort was built.

I pass by the Culver Haven Inn at the end of the down and then continue on my way, walking across the southern tip of Bembridge Down where I can spy Bembridge Fort on the summit.

I wander along the top of Red Cliff and have lovely views over Sandown and Shanklin.

I pass the village of Yaverland where I follow the footpath down to Yaverland Beach. And what a lovely beach! The golden sand stretches back all the way to the chalk cliffs of Culver Down and behind me the orange sandstone cliffs gradually increase in height as they gradually move to white chalk.

I amble happily along the golden sands towards Sandown climbing over or walking through the groynes.

The groynes become too high to clamber over so I walk up steps to the sea wall and walk along the coast path towards Sandown where I pass the Isle of Wight Zoo. My sister says it's rubbish!

I drop down to the beach again at Sandown and amble along the golden sands towards the pier wending my way up and down the groynes. I rather like Sandown Beach!

Unexpectedly, the weather closes in and it starts to rain.

Sandown Pier is rather shabby looking today - there's nothing wrong with that! - but when it was built in 1876 it must have been a graceful structure. I wander around the amusement arcade here for a bit, avoiding the rain.

I head past the pier. Bizarrely the official coast path climbs steeply back up onto the cliffs and heads through Ferncliff Gardens before following a concrete path along the tops of the cliffs all the way to Shanklin.

However, it looks like I can walk all the way along the revetment from Sandown to Shanklin. The weather is properly manky as I trudge along the concrete. The groynes are rather high at Shanklin Beach so I stick to the seawall where I come across some dreaded japanese knotweed. The weather suddenly improves again.

I pass some kind of dinosaur park but have absolutely no idea what it's called and a quick internet search doesn't reveal any details.

I climb up the road and head along East Cliff Promenade where I pass Shanklin Lift which takes visitors down onto the beach from the cliffs. The lift has recently been refurbished.

I pass the Chine Inn and then Shanklin Chine, opened to the public in 1817.

The coastal path signs dry up and the path is very confusing but a helpful man at the pub points me in the right direction. I climb down steps, pass Fisherman's Cottage and head along the beach for a bit before climbing up Appley Steps.

I walk along the road heading towards Luccombe Village where I pass Luccombe Hall and Bourne Hall. I follow a coastal path sign over a stile and slither through a disgusting swampy area which I could have avoided by just following the road. Mud almost comes over the top of my boots.

I walk through woodland at The Landslip, presumably named because the coast here is rather prone to erosion and landslides.

I trudge along the muddy paths before passing a wishing seat and coming across St Boniface Church above the village of Bonchurch, rebuilt in 1070.

It starts to rain again as i reach the sea wall at Bonchurch and it has become very blustery. I wasn't expecting this! It is a soggy walk along the seawall to Wheelers Bay. I pass Bonchurch Pottery and then come across some mosaics of glanville fritillary butterflies. This is one of the few locations in the UK where they exist. My butterfly guide says that it only occurs in a few locations on the Isle of Wight.

I come across the start of Stokey's Solar System Walk, a walk marked out on the scale of 1 inch to 100,000 miles.

I start the walk at the sun and pass signs for all of the planets before reaching Pluto. Stokey Woodall clearly has a much bigger stride than me!

The coast path continues along the seawall to reach Ventnor where I pass The Millbay and a rather sorry looking amusement arcade. I pass the Esplanade Clock, erected in 1870, to give the time, even on cloudy days. Unfortunately, it's telling the wrong time!

I pass the Spyglass Inn and the weather is starting to improve again so I have a last view back over Ventnor.

The coastal path signs have run out again. Do I head up the road through Ventnor. I've no idea. I head through a car park and luckily regain the coast path.

I pass a sign for a dinosaur labyrinth. The labyrinth is the full size and shape of a diplodocus.

I head along the low cliff path and pass Flowers Brook, fed by two springs which flow from the downs above.

I walk along the sea defences at Castle Cove before reaching Steephill Cove and I climb steeply up a path behind the cove before climbing steps.

The coast path takes me past Ventnor Botanic Garden, sheltered by The Undercliff and basking in a warm and sunny microclimate.

I head along the cliffs where a fiddly path makes my walking pole strapped to my bag constantly catch the vegetation. I'm forced inland to reach the village of St Lawrence where I walk along Woolverton Road, Undercliffs, Spindlers Road and then Seven Sisters Road and then ascend steeply up High Hat where I have spectacular views back across St Lawrence.

The weather deteriorates and it is now extremely blustery and chucking it down. I follow the V71 and NT29 footpaths towards the village of Niton.

I continue along the low cliffs and emerge onto the A3055 which I follow sharply right and then head off of the road immediately left up a track. I now have lovely views over St Catherine's Point, the southernmost tip of the island, with its resident lighthouse.

I can now see the chalk cliffs of High Down and should have lovely views over the south west coast and over Blackgang Chine but the weather is filthy.

I lose coastal path signs again and follow probably the wrong path down to the car park at Blackgang Chine. Due to many landslips Blackgang Chine no longer exists but it is now the home of the UK's oldest amusement park.

I follow the car park up to the A3055 and walk along the road before a footpath takes me to my destination for the day, the oddly placed car park at Chale, where my lift awaits.

The weather has been all over the place today but it has been a thoroughly enjoyable walk. I have conquered the entire coast of the Isle of Wight!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

oaks
oystercatchers
a little egret
red valerian
swans
fennel
housemartins
hips and haws
sloes
blackberries
clover
peregrines
sea aster
hydrangeas
red hot pokers
japanese knotweed
red admirals
rosebay willowherb
japanese anemones
cyclamen

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 21.1 miles today which amounts to 48824 steps. That's a long way again. Despite some passages of filthy weather it has been a lovely day of walking. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed for a third consecutive day. More than previous days but still not very taxing.

MAP

ISLE OF WIGHT COAST PATH

tuesday, 12TH SEPTEMBER 2017

It looks like I might be in for quite a nice day today. It's not going to break temperature records but it should be bright and sunny all day.

Yarmouth low tide 08:49

Yarmouth high tide 15:26

I start the day back in Yarmouth next to Yarmouth Pier, built in 1876 to allow ferries from Lymington to dock.

I head in a westerly direction and head behind Yarmouth Castle, the last addition to Henry VIII's coastal defences and completed after his death in 1547.

I round the harbour passing the lifeboat and a gribble seat.

The gribble seat was created in 2008 as part of the project to save Yarmouth Pier. In 2008, 54 of the wooden piles along the length of the pier were replaced after they had been eaten away by gribble.

I cross the swing bridge over the Western Yar and then head out along a footpath next to the sea. At the end of the sea wall I head through some woodland and then head along a track through Fort Victoria Country Park, passing inland of Fort Victoria.

The fort was built to guard the Solent from French invasion and now houses the Underwater Archaeology Centre, a planetarium and a model railway.

I climb some steps and now have lovely views over to Hurst Castle, the closest point on the mainland, about three quarters of a mile away.

I continue along the path and have lovely, if brief, views over Colwell Bay and Totland Bay and I can see the Tennyson Monument on the top of Tennyson Down on the other side of the island. I can also make out the Needles, consisting of three distinct chalk stacks.

I reach the entrance to Linstone Chine Holiday Village but am routed around it for some reason. I come across butterflies fluttering in the wind including a wall brown butterfly and a speckled wood.

I then walk through Brambles Chine Holiday Park which looks thoroughly grim.

I've barely seen the sea since leaving Yarmouth so I am now desperate for a bit of coast. I head down to the shoreline, hoping that the tide is out so I can walk along the beach. It is! The bit of concrete leading to the beach is slippery and I make a graceless entrance to the beach sliding down on my arse. I can now clearly see the Needles in the distance.

I walk along the beach, clambering over the groynes headed for the colourful beach huts on Colwell Bay.

I can look back to Fort Albert which I mistakingly call Fort Victoria in the podcast.

I head inland slightly at a bit of wrecked seawall before heading along the sea wall towards ramshackle Totland Pier.

The pier has fallen into disrepair in recent years and my notes say that it is finally being refurbished. My notes are wrong! It looks like a gust of wind could take the whole pier into the sea.

It's rather lovely around here. I pass the Totland Pier Cafe and The Waterfront. I pass the old lifeboat station which was in use between 1885 and 1924.

I continue along the sea wall and climb some steps up to the road which climbs uphill steeply and head along a footpath at Headon Warren before climbing onto the top of Headon Warren where I have magnificent views.

I head off of the ridge and head towards Alum Bay where I reach the entrance to Needles Park. I'd take the chairlift down to the beach but my head for heights is rubbish.

I walk through the theme park and head back up onto the cliffs where I have a lovely view over Alum Bay.

I head along White Cliffs towards the Needles and Old Battery, completed in 1863. I now have magnificent views over Scratchell's Bay.

I pass next to New Battery, completed in 1895 to replace the crumbling Old Battery, and latterly used as a site for testing intercontinental ballistic missiles and then space rockets.

I now have the best view of the needles I'm going to get.

I retrace my steps and it's time to change direction and I start walking in an easterly direction along the ridge of West High Down. It is a pleasant but uneventful walk towards Freshwater Bay.

I continue along Tennyson Down where I come across a half size replica of the ancient navigation sea mark known as the Nodes Beacon which used to stand where the Tennyson Monument now stands..

I climb up Tennyson Down and the views back over West High Down are magnificent.

I pass by the Tennyson Monument, a granite cross erected in 1897 in the memory of Alfred, Lord Tennyson and then head along the ridge of Tennyson Down above the chalk cliffs and pass inland of Fort Redoubt, another fort built to defend against the French.

I continue along Tennyson Down and have lovely views over Freshwater Bay.

I pass a man strimming grass and then a party of school children. I head along the sea wall and then climb steps out of Freshwater Bay.

I now have magnificent views back over Freshwater Bay and the white cliffs.

I come across a memorial to a dead child. There's no name but the initials E.L.M. and the age 15.

“Erected in remembrance of a most dear and only child who was suddenly removed into eternity by a fall from the adjacent cliff on the rocks beneath 28 August 1846.

Reader prepare to meet thy God for thou knowest not what a day may bring forth.”

I head along the low cliffs below the busy A3055 and head behind Compton Down where I have magnificent views over Compton Bay.

I pass through a car park at Shippards Chine. It's rather eroded here and some of the parking spaces seem to have been lost to the sea.

I could climb down some steps here to reach the shoreline which is one of the best beaches to spot dinosaur fossils at low tide but it's getting on and I've still got a bit of walking to do.

I continue along the low cliffs which are now made of clay and rather fragile and head along Brook Bay. I reach the car park at Brook Chine and then head out along Roughland Cliff.

I skirt around Chilton Chine and come across a herd of very friendly cows.

I then come across the Isle of Wight Pearl, dedicated to the art of pearl jewellery.

I walk through a rather faded holiday park and then the wildlife and fauna conservation area at Grange Farm. There are bird boxes, bee boxes and bug houses dotted around the farm.

I now negotiate a series of chines, starting with Grange Chine and followed by Barnes Chine, Cowleaze Chine and Shepherd's Chine. The cliffs are crumbling away and the sea is coloured the same brown as the cliffs.

I head towards Whale Chine, the largest of the chines I've come across. There's a set of steps down to the beach but they are off limits as the chine is closed due to erosion.

I have to round this chine and at its head pass through the car park next to the busy Military Road (A3055). This road was built in the 1930s, following the coastline from Chale to Freshwater Bay and is under constant threat from erosion.

I head back along the other side of Whale Chine to reach the coast again and head towards my destination for the day, the village of Chale. I pass the Wight Mouse Inn followed by the St Andrew's Church and the village school and then the other side of the pub to reach an oddly placed car park where my lift awaits.

It has been a spectacular day of walking.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red admirals
marestail
oaks
hips
honeysuckle
fuchsias
pheasants
wall brown butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
comma butterflies
buddleia
ragwort
heather
rosebay willowherb

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 21.8 miles today which amounts to 48097 steps. That's quite a long way for me. It has been cold and blustery but the walking has been fantastic and I've actually walked along quite a bit of coastline today. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed me for a second day running. It hasn't been much though.