st helen's to chale

ISLE OF WIGHT COAST PATH

wednesday, 13TH SEPTEMBER 2017

Today's weather forecast doesn't look too bad. It's not going to be particularly warm and it'll be a bit blustery but I should have a fair amount of sun during the day.

Sandown low tide 10:32

Sandown high tide 17:01

weather forecast.jpg
tide times.jpg

I leave our holiday cottage in St Helen's first thing in the morning and immediately head out around Bembridge Harbour.

bembridge harbour

bembridge harbour

I head along embankment road and pass some houseboats, many of them up for sale. I also pass Brading Haven Yacht Club, Bembridge Sailing Club and the Tollgate Cafe.

At the Pilot Boat Inn I detour off of the coast path and wander down Beach Road. I head out onto Bembridge Point Beach hoping that I can walk all the way along the beach. I walk along a narrow strip of fine, golden sand. That's a rather nice start to the day! I drop into conversation with a woman walking her dog who has just moved from Ryde to Bembridge. That's quite a hefty move!

It does indeed look like I can walk along the beach so I keep walking. I climb up onto the sea wall and pass the Lifeboat View Cafe before reaching Bembridge Lifeboat Station. The lifeboat station was established in 1867.

bembridge lifeboat station

I drop down to the beach again on the other side of the lifeboat station and continue on the pebbly beach around Bembridge Foreland. The low cliffs are heavily eroded and some diggers are making repairs to the sea defences. I pass the Crab and Lobster Inn.

crab and lobster inn

It's a beautiful morning and I'm beginning to like this walk!

I continue along the coast path where I have a lovely view over Whitecliff Bay and the cliff is indeed white.

whitecliff bay

I leave the village of Bembridge and head along muddy paths towards Whitecliff Bay where I come across Whitecliff Bay Holiday Park.

I descend down a steep concrete path to reach the beach at Whitecliff Bay where I enjoy the sand and shingle beach even though I'm technically trespassing.

I head back up the concrete path and continue on my way and onto Culver Down where I have lovely views back over Whitecliff Bay. 

view back over whitecliff bay

I come across the Yarborough Monument, a memorial to Charles Anderson-Pelham, the second Baron Yarborough, founder of the Royal Yacht Squadron at Cowes. The monument was originally erected in 1849 on the highest point on Bembridge Down but moved to this location in the 1860s when Bembridge Fort was built.

yarborough monument

I pass by the Culver Haven Inn at the end of the down and then continue on my way, walking across the southern tip of Bembridge Down where I can spy Bembridge Fort on the summit.

bembridge fort

I wander along the top of Red Cliff and have lovely views over Sandown and Shanklin.

view over sandown and shanklin

I pass the village of Yaverland where I follow the footpath down to Yaverland Beach. And what a lovely beach! The golden sand stretches back all the way to the chalk cliffs of Culver Down and behind me the orange sandstone cliffs gradually increase in height as they gradually move to white chalk.  

I amble happily along the golden sands towards Sandown climbing over or walking through the groynes.

The groynes become too high to clamber over so I walk up steps to the sea wall and walk along the coast path towards Sandown where I pass the Isle of Wight Zoo. My sister says it's rubbish!

I drop down to the beach again at Sandown and amble along the golden sands towards the pier wending my way up and down the groynes. I rather like Sandown Beach!

Unexpectedly, the weather closes in and it starts to rain.

Sandown Pier is rather shabby looking today - there's nothing wrong with that! - but when it was built in 1876 it must have been a graceful structure. I wander around the amusement arcade here for a bit, avoiding the rain.

sandown pier

I head past the pier. Bizarrely the official coast path climbs steeply back up onto the cliffs and heads through Ferncliff Gardens before following a concrete path along the tops of the cliffs all the way to Shanklin.

However, it looks like I can walk all the way along the revetment from Sandown to Shanklin. The weather is properly manky as I trudge along the concrete. The groynes are rather high at Shanklin Beach so I stick to the seawall where I come across some dreaded japanese knotweed. The weather suddenly improves again.

shanklin beach

I pass some kind of dinosaur park but have absolutely no idea what it's called and a quick internet search doesn't reveal any details.

dinosaur park

I climb up the road and head along East Cliff Promenade where I pass Shanklin Lift which takes visitors down onto the beach from the cliffs. The lift has recently been refurbished.

shanklin lift

I pass the Chine Inn and then Shanklin Chine, opened to the public in 1817.

shanklin chine

The coastal path signs dry up and the path is very confusing but a helpful man at the pub points me in the right direction. I climb down steps, pass Fisherman's Cottage and head along the beach for a bit before climbing up Appley Steps.

the view from appley steps

I walk along the road heading towards Luccombe Village where I pass Luccombe Hall and Bourne Hall. I follow a coastal path sign over a stile and slither through a disgusting swampy area which I could have avoided by just following the road. Mud almost comes over the top of my boots.

I walk through woodland at The Landslip, presumably named because the coast here is rather prone to erosion and landslides.

I trudge along the muddy paths before passing a wishing seat and coming across St Boniface Church above the village of Bonchurch, rebuilt in 1070.

st boniface church

It starts to rain again as i reach the sea wall at Bonchurch and it has become very blustery. I wasn't expecting this! It is a soggy walk along the seawall to Wheelers Bay. I pass Bonchurch Pottery and then come across some mosaics of glanville fritillary butterflies. This is one of the few locations in the UK where they exist. My butterfly guide says that it only occurs in a few locations on the Isle of Wight.

glanville fritillary

I come across the start of Stokey's Solar System Walk, a walk marked out on the scale of 1 inch to 100,000 miles.

stokey's solar system walk

stokey's solar system walk

I start the walk at the sun and pass signs for all of the planets before reaching Pluto. Stokey Woodall clearly has a much bigger stride than me!

the sun

pluto

The coast path continues along the seawall to reach Ventnor where I pass The Millbay and a rather sorry looking amusement arcade. I pass the Esplanade Clock, erected in 1870, to give the time, even on cloudy days. Unfortunately, it's telling the wrong time!

ventnor

I pass the Spyglass Inn and the weather is starting to improve again so I have a last view back over Ventnor.

ventnor

The coastal path signs have run out again. Do I head up the road through Ventnor. I've no idea. I head through a car park and luckily regain the coast path. 

I pass a sign for a dinosaur labyrinth. The labyrinth is the full size and shape of a diplodocus.

dinosaur labyrinth

I head along the low cliff path and pass Flowers Brook, fed by two springs which flow from the downs above.

flowers brook

I walk along the sea defences at Castle Cove before reaching Steephill Cove and I climb steeply up a path behind the cove before climbing steps.

steephill cove

The coast path takes me past Ventnor Botanic Garden, sheltered by The Undercliff and basking in a warm and sunny microclimate.

I head along the cliffs where a fiddly path makes my walking pole strapped to my bag constantly catch the vegetation. I'm forced inland to reach the village of St Lawrence where I walk along Woolverton Road, Undercliffs, Spindlers Road and then Seven Sisters Road and then ascend steeply up High Hat where I have spectacular views back across St Lawrence.

view over st lawrence

The weather deteriorates and it is now extremely blustery and chucking it down. I follow the V71 and NT29 footpaths towards the village of Niton.

I continue along the low cliffs and emerge onto the A3055 which I follow sharply right and then head off of the road immediately left up a track. I now have lovely views over St Catherine's Point, the southernmost tip of the island, with its resident lighthouse.

st catherine's point

I can now see the chalk cliffs of High Down and should have lovely views over the south west coast and over Blackgang Chine but the weather is filthy.

I lose coastal path signs again and follow probably the wrong path down to the car park at Blackgang Chine. Due to many landslips Blackgang Chine no longer exists but it is now the home of the UK's oldest amusement park.

I follow the car park up to the A3055 and walk along the road before a footpath takes me to my destination for the day, the oddly placed car park at Chale, where my lift awaits.

The weather has been all over the place today but it has been a thoroughly enjoyable walk. I have conquered the entire coast of the Isle of Wight!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • oaks
  • oystercatchers
  • a little egret
  • red valerian
  • swans
  • fennel
  • housemartins
  • hips and haws
  • sloes
  • blackberries
  • clover
  • peregrines
  • sea aster
  • hydrangeas
  • red hot pokers
  • japanese knotweed
  • red admirals
  • rosebay willowherb
  • japanese anemones
  • cyclamen
podcast logo small.png

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

10 out of 10.png

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 21.1 miles today which amounts to 48824 steps. That's a long way again. Despite some passages of filthy weather it has been a lovely day of walking. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed for a third consecutive day. More than previous days but still not very taxing.

MAP

bembridge harbour

seaweed

bembridge lifeboat station

whitecliff bay

whitecliff bay

stokey's solar system walk

beach collection

st helen's to cowes

isle of wight coast path

saturday, 9th september 2017

The weather forecast for the week doesn't look particularly good but it has been a stinker of a year so any good weather is a bonus. Today's weather forecast looks OK but it's not going to be very warm. At least the wind has died down a bit!

Ryde low tide 07:12

Ryde high tide 13:42

weather forecast.jpg
tide times.jpg

I have never been on the Isle of Wight before and it feels like we are practically abroad! We caught the ferry over from Portsmouth to Fishbourne yesterday afternoon.

I start the day at our holiday cottage in St Helen's (some people use St Helen's with an apostrophe and some use St Helens without so I've no idea which is correct so I'll use the correct version with an apostrophe) and walk the short distance down the road and then down a track passing Old Mill Holiday Park to reach Bembridge Harbour.

bembridge harbour

I walk a short distance along the harbour until it turns into St Helen's Causeway and I follow the causeway above marshland. The marsh is covered in seabirds. It's rather a nice start to the day.

st helen's causeway

At the end of the causeway I reach St Helen's Duver, an island sand dune now owned by the National Trust. The dunes used to be the island's first golf course, home of the Royal Isle of Wight Golf Club. The course was opened in 1882 and had just 9 holes. The few remaining members presented the course to the National Trust in 1961. The National Trust know how to spell St Helen's!

st helen's duver

st helen's duver

The ex golf course is covered in sea thrift. Back at home the sea thrift all but disappeared at the end of June even though last year it made it all the way to the end of December.

I head across the dunes heading for the pillared Old Club House, now a National Trust holiday cottage.

old club house

At the end of the dune system I turn right to visit the tower of St Helen's Old Church, looking out to sea. It's peaceful around here and St Helen's Beach is rather lovely.

st helen's beach

 

The tower is all that remains of the 13th century church which fell out of use in Tudor times. It was bricked up in 1703 and later replaced by a newer church inland. We passed the new church on our way into St Helen's yesterday and it's a long way inland.

st helen's old church

On Saturday the 14th of September 1805, Admiral Lord Nelson boarded HMS Victory lying at anchor off St Helen's near to the old church. HMS Victory, with HMS Euryalus in company,  sailed the following morning to join the fleet off Cadiz, prior to the battle of Trafalgar on the 21st of October 1805.

The official coast path heads inland of Priory Bay but I head out along the beach to reach Node's Point. It looks like I can continue along Priory Bay Beach.

node's point

priory bay beach

I amble along the beach and I can indeed continue along the beach to Seagrove Bay, where I enjoy the lovely, golden sand.

seagrove bay

I briefly walk along the seawall at the village of Seaview before dropping down to the beach again.

Ships holding thousands of brave troops from Great Britain, Canada, France and the United States of America sailed off from Seaview and other ports to the beaches of Normandy to free Europe from the tyranny of Hitler's Germany on D Day, the 6th of June 1944.

I head out onto Ryde East Sands. It is now a pleasant walk along golden sands heading into Ryde, passing Puckpool Point and Appley Tower. The beach is practically deserted.

ryde east sands

ryde east sands

I enjoy the sight of hovercrafts arriving and departing from Ryde before passing the hovercraft terminal.

hovercrafts

I reach Ryde Pier, the second longest pier in the country, only being beaten by Southend's pier. I waste time here watching the train going up and down the pier.

ryde pier

I head along the esplanade and pass Prince Consort Building built in 1846 as a gift from Prince Albert to Queen Victoria and once home to the Royal Victoria Yacht Club. The club was founded due to the fact that the Royal Yacht Squadron in Cowes didn't allow female members, even royal ones.

I turn into Buckingham Road and then head along quiet country roads heading towards the main road. I pass Treefields Pond and just before reaching the main road I turn along a footpath which heads through the golf course, home of Ryde Golf Club.

ryde golf club

At the end of the golf course I reach the Church of the Holy Cross, Binstead.

binstead church

I come across butterflies feeding on red valerian.

I follow various roads and paths and pass the remains of Old Quarr Abbey, pronounced Cor but spelt Quarr. I can see the remains of a Cistercian abbey, constructed from 1132 and demolished in 1536 during the dissolution of the monasteries.

the site of old quarr abbey

the plan of old quarr abbey

I continue along the footpath to reach Quarr Abbey. I detour off of the coast path to visit the abbey, home to a small group of Benedictine monks, where I enjoy the gardens. It's rather lovely around here and very peaceful.

The abbey is named after a nearby quarry, mined since Roman times and stone from the quarry was used in the construction of Winchester and Chichester cathedrals. The abbey was completed in 1912 to house a French Benedictine order.

I come across some lovely autumn crocuses outside of the abbey before retracing my steps to rejoin the coast path and follow quiet paths.

At the far end of Quarr Abbey I come across some pigs wallowing in mud. I love pigs!

I amble along the quiet paths and a squirrel crosses my path. I think nothing of it as I see loads of squirrels at home. Hang on a sec! That squirrel is red!! It's a RED SQUIRREL!!! That's the first red squirrel I've ever seen. It disappears before I even remotely get a chance to pull out my camera.

I continue along the path which takes me to the  Fishbourne Inn. I pass Fishbourne's ferry terminal, where we arrived on the Isle of Wight on Friday, and head through Fishbourne next to Wootton Creek.

fishboune inn

I pass a small plantation and see another red squirrel before climbing up to the main road at Kite's Hill.

I head along the main road and cross over Wootton Bridge with Wootton Creek on my right and The Old Mill Pond on my left, to reach the village of Wootton Bridge. That's a rather large pond.

old mill pond

wootton creek

I pass the Sloop Inn at Mill Square and then odd footpaths and roads through Wootton near to the site of the 1969 Isle of Wight Festival.

the sloop inn

I'm now far inland and follow the quiet Brocks Copse Road and then Alverstone Road for a couple of miles until it reaches the main road at Whippingham.

The coast path now follows the main road past Osborne House, once the home of Queen Victoria on the Isle of Wight and now owned by English Heritage, for a couple of miles into East Cowes.

Instead of following the coast path I turn into Beatrice Avenue and follow the minor road to reach the rather gothic looking St Mildred's Church, Whippingham.

Opposite the church are almshouses built on the orders of Queen Victoria in 1876 to house retired royal servants.

almshouses

I head through the churchyard to enjoy the view over the River Medina before retracing my steps and heading back along the road and then a footpath beside the road which leads me to a row of multicoloured houses.

At Meadow Road I descend down a footpath heading towards the River Medina where I pass Vera Allotments who are holding their open day today. I turn right next to Kingston Wharf and pass East Cowes cemetery and head down Medina View to enjoy the view over Cowes Marina before heading back along the road into East Cowes.

east cowes cemetery

cowes marina

I finally get very confused with the route. I should take the chain ferry over the River Medina but instead come across a massive floating bridge. This can't be the chain ferry can it? as I was expecting a passenger only service. I wander around for a bit and finally see a sign for the chain ferry but when I get there it doesn't seem to be running and instead suggests walking along the river for a bit to find a passenger ferry.

I wander along the river and come across some people milling on a pier so I wait and indeed, a passenger ferry turns up so I climb on board and pay the £1.50 fare to cross the River Medina to reach my destination for the day, West Cowes.

I head into town but can't see any signs of a car park so wander aimlessly for a while before finding Terminus Road which I head up to the car park where my lift awaits. It has been a confusing end to a thoroughly pleasant day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • roses
  • fuchsias
  • sea thrift
  • oystercatchers
  • lavender
  • red valerian
  • red admirals
  • speckled woods
  • dahlias
  • cyclamen
  • oaks
  • marestail
  • fig trees
  • pears
  • apples
  • autumn crocuses
  • red campion
  • pigs
  • RED SQUIRRELS
  • hydrangeas
  • buzzards
podcast logo small.png

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

10 out of 10.png

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.6 miles today which amounts to 34831 steps. It has been a cold day and describing it as a coastal path is stretching things slightly but the walking has been lovely and completely new to me. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been a measly 66 metres or 218 feet.

elevation.jpg

MAP

bembridge harbour

dead tree on st helen's duver

hovercrafts

st mildred's church

beach collection