a walk around abbotsbury

WALKS NEAR THE X53 BUS ROUTE

saturday, 28TH MAY 2016

The folks over at Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site were after some volunteers to test some walks along the route of the X53 bus in Dorset. This is my second attempt to walk this walk as I failed miserably to complete it on my first attempt. These are the instructions (with some of my modifications) for the walk around Abbotsbury.

If alighting from the X53 bus at the Swan Inn pub, head west down the main road, round the right hand bend and continue up to the Ilchester Arms Hotel.

abbotsbury

ilchester arms hotel

From outside the Ilchester Arms Hotel X53 bus stop, head west for 50 metres and take the path to the left by the village shop.

chapel lane stores

Continue along this path to a barn, gate and path junction. Go right and stay on this lane until a gate and path junction next to the Abbotsbury Recreation Ground is reached.

barn

Ignore the path to the right, which just takes you back to the main road through Abbotsbury. Instead take the path to the left and follow it slowly downhill, passing a thatched cottage, before going through a gate to reach a road.

thatched cottage

Turn right up the road and go through a gate by a farm, continuing up to the main road.

Cross the road to the pavement and head out of the village for 50 metres until the pavement runs out.

Cross the road again and and walk along the road for 100 or so metres, to reach a minor road on the left marked for Chesil Beach and the Sub Tropical Gardens.

sign for chesil beach

Go down this road passing the Abbotsbury Sub Tropical Gardens on the left, to the beach.

abbotsbury sub tropical gardens

At the beach there is a car park, cafe and toilets.

car park, cafe and toilets

There is a walkway up onto the top of Chesil Beach and some storyboards about the beach and environment.

storyboards

walkway onto chesil beach

chesil beach

Join the South West Coast Path which runs next to the storyboards and continue south east on the shingle path and then footpath to reach a stile and path on the right marked 'Swannery 3/4'.

signpost for swannery

Take this path and walk over fields until you reach a marker stone. Take the right hand path marked for the Swannery and go over a couple of stiles, a footbridge and on to a gravel road.

marker stone

The Swannery and car park is a short way to the right. Go left though up the gravel road, passing some cottages and Mill House.

mill house

Continue up the road to a road junction, bear left, up past the ancient Tithe Barn and Children's Farm. 

tithe barn and children's farm

Immediately after the pond follow a footpath to the right marked for the village car park and walk past the ruined Abbotsbury Abbey and behind St Nicholas Church to reach the car park. Go through the car park to the main road.

abbotsbury abbey

st nicholas church

From here return to either of the two village X53 bus stops. The Swan Inn bus stop is just to your right and the Ilchester Arms Hotel can be reached by following the main road to your left.

swan inn

portesham to abbotsbury

WALKS NEAR THE X53 BUS ROUTE

saturday, 28TH MAY 2016

The folks over at Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site were after some volunteers to test some walks along the route of the X53 bus in Dorset. This is my second attempt to walk this walk as the weather on the first occasion was filthy. These are the instructions (with some of my modifications) for the walk from Portesham to Abbotsbury.

Alight from the X53 bus at either the Village Hall or Kings Arms bus stops in Portesham.

Walk on the pavement by the main road towards the minor road junction by the Kings Arms.

kings arms

Go up the road past the pub, a green telephone box, the old school house and St Peter's Church to the right hand bend in the road by the duck pond.

green telephone box

old school house

st peter's church

duck pond

Go left along Back Street for 100m and take the signposted footpath for Portesham Withy Beds to the right and along behind the houses.

back street

signpost for portesham withy beds

Continue to a gate onto a farm road, turn left along the road, then at the junction go straight on, through a gate and along a field path with the hedge to the left, to another gate.

Go through the gate and take the path which bears right and down through some trees, with a muddy patch, to a gate into a field.

Take the field path to the right for 100m to 2 large stones then do a hard right turn up the hill to a gate and fingerpost marked for Abbotsbury.

two large stones

fingerpost to abbotsbury

Ignore the gate. Instead, turn left uphill with the fence on the right, then across the field to a path through the bushes.

Ignore the stile on the right. Carry on this path to a path junction with a marker stone.

Go straight on, up to a minor road and gate. Turn left along the road for 50m to a gate on the right and a farm track which is the South Dorset Ridgeway.

south dorset ridgeway signpost

south dorset ridgeway

Go along the track to a gate on the left with a fingerpost to Abbotsbury. 

Take this path leaving the South Dorset Ridgeway down over the fields. There is no discernible path through the fields and the sign is pointing too far to the right but head to the left of St Catherine's Chapel and towards the Fleet and you'll find a small ridge of grass which leads to a gate marked 'Abbotsbury Round Walk, Old Railway Walk'.

Go through the gate and head along a path downhill to a sign for Abbotsbury half a mile away. You will now have good views of the village of Abbotsbury

misty view over abbotsbury

Turn right down the road to Abbotsbury.

cuckooflower on the road to abbotsbury

At the road junction, take Rosemary Lane to the Swan Inn bus stop (turn left at the main road through Abbotsbury to reach the Swan Inn) or Back Street to the Ilchester Arms Hotel bus stop.

rosemary lane

swan inn

portesham to abbotsbury

walks near the X53 bus route

thursday, 12th may 2016

The folks over at Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site were after some volunteers to test some walks along the route of the X53 bus in Dorset. Since I was down in Devon and Dorset I thought I'd give a couple of the walks a try. These are the instructions (with some of my modifications) for the walk from Portesham to Abbotsbury.

It was a filthy day for walking so the photographs are rubbish!


Alight from the X53 bus at either the Village Hall or Kings Arms bus stops in Portesham.

Walk on the pavement by the main road towards the minor road junction by the Kings Arms.

kings arms

Go up the road past the pub, the old schoolhouse and St Peter's Church to the right hand bend in the road by the duck pond.

st peter's church

the duck pond

Go left along the road for 100m and take the signposted footpath to the right and along behind the houses.

Continue to a gate onto a farm road, turn left along the road, then at the junction go straight on, through a gate and along a field path with the hedge to the left, to another gate.

Go through the gate and take the path which bears right and down through some trees, with a muddy patch - it was very muddy when I walked it - , to a gate into a field.

Take the field path to the right for 100m to 2 large stones then do a hard right turn up the hill to a gate and fingerpost marked for Abbotsbury.

two big stones

Ignore the gate. Instead, turn left uphill with the fence on the right, then across the field to a path through the bushes.

Ignore the stile on the right. Carry on this path to a path junction with a marker stone.

marker stone

Go straight on, up to a minor road and gate. Turn left along the road for 50m to a gate on the right and farm track which is the South Dorset Ridgeway.

Go along the track to a gate on the left with a fingerpost to Abbotsbury. There are good views of the village. It was foggy when I walked it so I didn't have any views.

fingerpost to abbotsbury

Take this path leaving the South Dorset Ridgeway down over the fields to arrive at a minor road.

Take this path leaving the South Dorset Ridgeway down over the fields. There was no discernible path through the fields when I walked it and the sign is pointing too far to the right but head to the left of St Catherine's Chapel and towards the Fleet and you'll find a small ridge of grass which leads to a gate marked 'Abbotsbury round walk, old railway walk'.

Go through the gate and head along a path downhill to a sign for Abbotsbury half a mile away.

abbotsbury half a mile

Continue down hill to a gate and a minor road.

Turn right down the road to Abbotsbury. At the road junction, take Rosemary Lane to the Swan Inn bus stop (turn left at the main road through Abbotsbury to reach the Swan Inn) or Back Street to the Ilchester Arms Hotel bus stop.

swan inn

ilchester arms hotel

ilchester arms hotel


abbotsbury to ferrybridge

south west coast path

wednesday, 11th may 2016

The weather forecast for today doesn't look too bad, if a little on the cold side, but it's a proper manky day as we arrive at Abbotsbury. It's raining, gloomy and foggy and it doesn't look as if it's going away any time soon.

Chesil Beach high tide: 11:04

Chesil Beach low tide: 16:20

Today's walk is perhaps, on paper, not the most exciting walk, largely being inland due to the presence of Chesil Beach, but it's great to be back walking on the Dorset coast. Apparently Chesil Beach consists of 180 billion pebbles but I've not got time to count them all.

TODAY'S GEOLOGY LESSON

At the end of the last ice age about 10000 years ago sea levels rose as the ice melted. Beaches made of sand, gravel and mud were driven inland. These joined to form the first Chesil Beach.

Since that time the sea has eroded enormous piles of debris created by landslides in the west. Thousands of tonnes of rock were turned into pebbles by the relentless power of the sea and washed eastward by longshore drift burying the older beaches and creating the Chesil Beach we see today.

 

 

Today's walk starts at the car park behind Chesil Beach just before Abbotsbury. The waterproof jacket gets straight on as I head down to the beach to admire it's majesty before heading back to the coast path. The path detours inland towards Chapel Hill where St Catherine's Chapel can be seen. At least it could if it wasn't so foggy. The photographs aren't going to be good today.

a gloomy chesil beach

Great! I don't have a mobile phone signal!!

I slip and slide over shingle behind Chesil Beach before trampling through damp fields to reach Abbotsbury Swannery and then take to grassy hills with some lovely views back over Chesil Beach, only I can't see anything in the fog.

The path passes above Clayhanger Farm and through loads of fields with the coast at some distance. In places the path is muddy, slippery and nettle infested. This is not a good start to the day, especially as it is now May.

I continue through sodden fields and even manage to come across a locked gate which I have to scramble over. WTF? The song birds don't seem to mind it around here though as they are making a magnificent racket.

I eventually come to a field of rape above Rodden Hive. This is supposed to be a promising spot for birds but all I can see is a solitary heron fishing in the Fleet.

rape above rodden hive

I continue along the coast path to reach West Fleet with a view over to Herbury Island. One high point of the day is that there are skylarks all over the place and they are making a terrible racket. I even stop to record one male skylark who hangs in the air for three and a half minutes chirping away.

a gloomy view over herbury island

a gloomy view over herbury island

The Fleet Lagoon, at 8 miles long, is the largest inland tidal lagoon in Britain. It has many designations including being a Special Area of Conservation under the European Union Habitats Directive, is a Site of Special Scientific Interest, a Special Protection Area under the European Union Birds Directive and a Ramsar Site (wetlands of international importance designated under the Ramsar Convention).

The path continues past Gore Cove and the Moonfleet Manor Hotel and Restaurant, named after J.M. Falkner’s novel Moonfleet in which he describes a lake of brackish water full of “sea-fowl, herons, and oysters ... shut off from the open Channel by a monstrous great beach or dike of pebbles”.

Hmmmm ….. I still don't have a phone signal.

 East Fleet Touring Park can be found here and some gallops are close by but I don't see any horses today. I do come across some wall brown butterflies fluttering around though.

wall brown butterfly

I attempt to take some photographs of the wild flowers around here but even they prove to be of the boring variety. I manage to find buttercups, daisies, dandelions, ribwort plantain and hogweed. I do finally see a bit of blue sky though.

blue sky!

 I continue along the shore to reach East Fleet where the remains of Old Church can be found. Only the chancel remains and the rest of the church was destroyed in a storm in 1824 which breached Chesil Beach. A herd of friendly cows greets me here.

cows

That's about where the friendliness ends though as barbed wire seems to be covering every bit of wood I cling on to and I'm threatened by electric fencing.

I come across a blue butterfly but I have no idea how to tell the different species apart. Maybe a holly blue?

holly blue butterfly?

Chickerell Rifle Range is reached and I'm threatened by more signs. The red flags weren't flying today so I was able to cross through the range without any problems. It's a stinky, rutted, muddy path though. I do come across some dog-violets which try to brighten the day..

dog-violet

I come across one of the mankiest, overgrown, muddy and slippery, nettle infested footpaths I've ever come across and I'm now cursing the fact that I haven't had a mobile phone signal all day.

I carry on to reach Lynch Cove before having to head inland again to bypass the Wyke Regis Army Training Area. There doesn't seem to be any training going on.

I continue back to the coast before finally reaching a beach at Pirate's Cove. The path passes in front of a caravan site and the Crab House Cafe. It occupies a ragged boatyard of a site overlooking the eastern end of the Fleet lagoon, just before the bridge to the Isle of Portland.

ferrybridge

I finally come across some colour in the form of clumps of sea thrift.

sea thrift

I pass the Ferrybridge Inn at Ferrybridge which from behind looks like it is unoccupied - what a lovely sight to see - before heading on to the end of the walk at the Ferrybridge car park next to Chesil Beach Visitors Centre.

chesil beach centre

I still don't have a mobile phone signal. WTF! And none of my gps tracking apps have worked today. Turns out that on rebooting my phone I do have a perfectly good signal so I may well have had a decent signal all day if I'd done that at the start of the walk.

We drive past the Ferrybridge Inn on our way back to our cottage and it is indeed boarded up. What a sad end to the day.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • sheep
  • pheasants
  • chiff chaffs
  • song thrush
  • watercress
  • swans
  • rooks
  • skylarks
  • chaffinches
  • rape
  • herons
  • little egrets
  • cormorants
  • wall brown butterflies
  • red admiral butterflies
  • friendly cows
  • housemartins

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked I don't know how many miles today - maybe 12 miles - as my phone failed me, which amounts to 29199 steps. I'm torn by this walk as I love Dorset but the weather has been iffy, the paths have been overgrown, nettle infested, muddy, slippery, barbed wire encrusted, electric fencing bound, dog shooting threatening and militarized. To top all of that I've often been far from the sea and without a phone signal. Two out of ten! I may not be back here for a while.

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know. Did I mention that my phone failed me?

No map today as my phone failed me. It has not been a good day.