falmouth to helford passage and back again

October 04, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

thursday, 1st october 2015

It's the last walking day of the week and I'm in for another day of beautiful weather. It's hard to believe that it's the first day of October.

Falmouth high tide 08:12

Falmouth low tide 14:50

I start the day next door to the National Maritime Museum Cornwall (@TheNMMC) at Discovery Quay in Falmouth. I'm making an early-ish start so the morning has a distinctive autumnal feel.

“The sea has never been friendly to man. At most it has been the accomplice of human restlessness.”

— Joseph Conrad, novelist 1857-1924

This restless man is itching to get going so I walk through Maritime Square and head out towards the coast path. I climb out of Falmouth and head down Gyllyngvase Terrace and then Gyllyngvase Hill and then walk briefly along Cliff Road to reach the delightful Gyllyngvase Beach on the outskirts of Falmouth.

I catch the beach at close to high tide but it's nothing like the high tides we get back at home in Clevedon. Also, the sea is not a muddy brown colour so I know which one I'd take!

I amble along the sandy beach passing the Gylly Beach Cafe (@GyllyBeachCafe) before rejoining the coast path for the short walk to Swanpool Beach (@SwanpoolBeach).

The beach is covered in seaweed and there are a couple of people out amongst the seaweed, collecting it. I slither my way across the vegetation and then leave Swanpool Beach next to the Hooked on the Rocks restaurant.

It's now a pleasant couple of miles walk to the third beach of the day, Maenporth Beach, on the way passing a memorial to the Home Guard. I drop down to the beach passing by Life's a Beach, the beach cafe here and walk out on to the sandy beach.

Maenporth Beach seems to be a bit more exposed to the wind than the previous two beaches and it's quite windy. The position of the sun doesn't make it easy for taking photographs either.

I continue along the coast path and walk below the sub tropical gardens of Meudon Hotel (@MeudonHotel).

I head out across Rosemullion Head and then enter woods below the village of Mawnan Smith.

I leave the woods and suddenly I have magnificent views out towards the Helford River. I walk down a grassy slope to reach the beach at Porthallack. Out over the river there are loads of swallows flitting about. It must be almost time for them to head back to southern Africa.

It is a short walk to Porth Saxon beach where I enjoy the views down the river.

I walk under a group of scots pines and then head below Bosloe House along a path through Bosloe Hay Meadows. I usually pass this way around about June time when the meadows look fantastic. They are a lot more subdued at this time of year.

The coast path joins a road which leads down into the village of Durgan where I pass the Old School House. I enjoy the beach below Durgan before heading out through the village.

From here it is easy walking to reach my destination for the day, Helford Passage where I spend way too long wandering along the beach collecting shells.

Should you wish, you can catch the ferry from here over to the village of Helford, which I've used on previous walks but not today. I munch on a sandwich below the Ferryboat Inn before it's time to head back in the direction I've come.

I head back below Trebah Garden and pass behind the private beach here using some stepping stones. I spot a dog on the beach down below.

Back again on Durgan Beach a friendly pied wagtail checks me out. I walk back through Durgan and divert from the coast path along a path which takes me down to an unmarked beach on my Ordnance Survey map, but known as Grebe Beach. The beach is not even signposted from the coast path so it's always quiet here.

As per usual, there is just a handful of locals here, most of them enjoying a swim in the river.

On the way back I enjoy the wildflowers but also come across a patch of the dreaded japanese knotweed.

I pass by Maenporth Beach for the last time this week and the tide is much further out than it was earlier on this morning. Conditions are also much easier for photography.

I say one last farewell to Swanpool Beach which is much busier than earlier and pass a group of kids having a kayaking lesson below the brightly coloured beach huts.

I reach Gyllyngvase Beach again and it's time for one final beach farewell. I amble slowly along the beach watching a man cast rose petals across the beach. I've no idea why he's doing this.

You can tell it's the 1st of October and the dog ban has been lifted today as there are dogs everywhere enjoying the beach and the weather. Don't blame them!

I head back through the gardens of the Princess Pavillion where I come across a raggedy painted lady feeding on verbena. What a lovely way to end the walk.

I head back into Falmouth and reach my destination for the day, Discovery Quay, again.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
blackberries
bracken
seaweed
grasshoppers
hydrangeas
fuchsias
gunnera
agapanthus
scots pines
speckled woods
a small tortoiseshell
robins
swallows
red admirals
pied wagtails
a painted lady
a dog on a beach
lots of dogs on beaches
verbena bonariensis

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16.26 miles today which amounts to 34658 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking and the weather has been glorious again. Unfortunately, that's the last walking of the week. Nine out of ten!

portloe to mevagissey

October 01, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

sunday, 27th september 2015

It looks like I'll be in for another day of beautiful weather with sun forecast for all day long. Woop!

Falmouth high tide 05:06 and 17:25

Falmouth low tide 11:51

I start the day back at the tiny harbour in Portloe where a fishing boat has landed on the beach full up with a catch. There's no sign of the box of sea urchins I came across yesterday so I just do a quick bit of exploring of the beach.

I enjoy some of the flowers in the village before heading off. The coast path winds its way in between the houses upwards out of Portloe and I have fine views back to the village and down to the fishing boat being unloaded in the harbour..

A rugged and fiddly path leads me up and down, up and down all the way to West Portholland. The beach here is sandy, but it is of the grey grit variety unlike the fine, golden sand I've been used to so far. A canoist pulls up onto the beach just as I arrive in the tiny village.

The tide is too far in for me to be able to walk across to East Portholland on the beach so I clamber up onto the rocks and walk along the sea wall instead. East Portholland is the larger of the two villages but they are both tiny and there is only a small post office and a tea room here. I don't see the post office but I do pass Pebbles Cafe and Crafts.

I take the road out of East Portholland, passing the last of the cottages and zigzag up a track. I walk across a couple of fields and re-join the road that leads me down to Caerhays Castle on my left and Porthluny Cove on my right.

The castle was designed by John Nash and is a rather vulgar monstrosity! I head for the beach instead which is large and sandy and rather popular.

I come across a stranded jellyfish on the beach but, unlike yesterday's starfish, shows no sign of life and there's no chance of me returning it to the water anyway.

I leave Porthluny Cove next to the cafe and head up a steep field where I have fine views back over the beach and the castle.

A series of fields and woods leads me past Lambsowden Cove and I come across a lone shetland pony chomping on the vegetation. There's no sign of any of his friends.

I continue onwards towards Hemmick Beach where I climb down steps to reach a house next to the beach. I wander out on to the sandy beach and explore the rock pools at low tide. The beach is completely deserted except for a jogger and his dog.

I come across a dead seal on the beach and as I leave the beach some families are starting to arrive.

A steep climb gives me magnificent views over Hemmick Beach.

The climb cotinues, taking me up to a granite cross on the top of Dodman Point, built in 1896 as a seafarers aid for navigation. I have fine views back where I have come from and onwards towards Mevagissey.

“In the firm hope of the second coming of our Lord Jesus Christ and for the encouragement of those who strive to serve Him. This cross is erected A.D. 1896.”

The path continues along fields. bushy paths and scrubby slopes and I pass a flock of black sheep. I have lovely views overlooking Vault Beach.

I take a detour off of the coast path and head down to Vault Beach. The beach here is lovely so I head down to explore it. Although quite close to Gorran Haven it is rather isolated so is never very busy and there's barely a handful of people here.

I head back to the coast path and come across a load of bees heading down into their burrows in the mud. No idea what species they are. The coast path leads me towards Gorran Haven high above the beach and I have lovely views over the village.

I climb a cliff and then down steps to reach the harbour at Gorran Haven. I head out to enjoy the beach which is just starting to get busy.

I walk up Church Street and meander through the village passing the church of St Just and the Mount Zion Church. At what was once the Llawnroc Inn (Gorran Haven no longer has any pubs) I turn right along Cliff Road and leave Gorran Haven behind me.

I pass Perhaver House where a sign informs me that refugees are welcome. I walk uphill onto Pabyer Point and round Turbot Point to reach Colona Beach, consisting of a large area of sand and rocky outcrops. The beach is pretty isolated and therefore deserted, except for some oystercatchers.

I round Chapel Point and cross grassy slopes to reach Chapel Point Lane and it's now easy walking to drop down to Portmellon. Sparrows are merrily chirping away to themselves in the bushes. I wander out on to the seaweed encrusted beach before heading back past The Rising Sun Inn and head uphill towards Mevagissey.

Easy walking along roads chock full of hotels and bed and breakfasts takes me to a park with fine views overlooking Mevagissey harbour and it's then an easy walk downhill through roads, unusually not full of tourists and cars, to reach Mevagissey.

I explore the shops and harbour here before heading through the village to where my lift awaits at the car park above the village, on the way passing The Kings Arms (@KingsArmsMeva), the Wheelhouse Inn, the Harbour Tavern, The Sharks Fin (@sharksfin_meva) and The Ship Inn.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

agapanthus
red valerian
white valerian
hydrangeas
crane's-bill (bloody I think but it's late in the year)
rosebay willowherb
sheep
cows
jellyfish
shetland pony
dead seal
black sheep
mushrooms
bees
sparrows

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 13.77 miles today which amounts to 31938 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking and the weather has been glorious again. Nine out of ten!

portloe to falmouth

September 29, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

saturday, 26th september 2015

For what feels like the first time this year the sun is shining and I have a full week of great looking weather. It looks like I'll have sun all day long and although it doesn't look like it's going to be baking hot, it's late September so I can't really have everything.

Falmouth high tide 04:15 and 16:35

Falmouth low tide 10:57

The ferry from Falmouth to St Mawes doesn't start until 08:30 and the connecting ferry from St Mawes to Place isn't timed very well so I decide to start the day at Portloe rather than Falmouth and I'll make my way back along the coast to finish at Falmouth.

I start the day at the car park high above Portloe and wander down the road, photographing the flowers as I go.

I reach the tiny beach and fishing harbour at the bottom of Portloe after passing the charming granite cottages on the way down and then the Lugger Hotel (@TheLuggerHotel).

I come across a box of sea urchin shells and, although it's completely impractical to carry so large a shell back to Falmouth, I buy one anyway (£3 in an honesty box) and rearrange my bag so that I can just about cram it in my side pocket.

I spend way too long enjoying the sun in the harbour before setting off on the gorse and bracken covered cliffs out of Portloe. I have fine views back across Portloe.

I come across a compliant red admiral butterfly and speckled wood butterflies and the wild flowers and berries, even this late in the season are looking lovely.

I round Manare Point and reach the rocky shore at Parc Caragloose Cove. I enter some woodland and then climb a long, grassy slope before rounding Blouth Point. I come across sheep a-plenty.

I'm now above the bouldery Kiberick Cove and out to sea I can see Gull Rock.

I continue along the gorse covered slopes passing Horse Rock, Lemoria Rock and Haine's Rock to reach Nare Head where I have magnificent views across Gerrans Bay towards Carne Beach and Pendower Beach.

For the first time today I come across a couple of people near to the bridge at Tregagles Hole. It looks like they might be set for a day of bird watching.

I pass Shannick Point, Malmanare Point and Pennarin Point and the views over Carne Beach and Pendower beach are lovely. The cows don't seem to appreciate it though.

I drop down onto Carne Beach, a fine south facing sandy beach. The tide is out so I amble along the beach and cross into Pendower Beach.

I come across a stranded starfish on the beach and so take him (or her) back down to the water. I hope the little fellow survives.

I head off of the beach using a slipway and pass by what was once the Pendower Beach House Hotel but is now a sad looking wreck of a building. Several attempts have been made to redevelop this site but all seem to have failed.

I climb out of Pendower Beach via the road and have magnificent views back over the beaches.

view back over pendower beach and carne beach

The path takes me out on to Treluggan Cliff where buzzards are enjoying the thermals and there are Dartmoor ponies chomping on the vegetation.

I continue along the coast path to reach Porthbean Beach and I climb down some steps to reach the beach. I amble along the sand pondering on the forces that were at play to create the near vertical sedimentary rock strata before leaving the beach via some wooden steps.

The path leads me past the National Coastwatch Station on Pednvadan Point and I now have magnificent views over towards the village of Portscatho.

I drop down to Porthcurnick Beach which is surprisingly busy. Here can be found the Hidden Hut (@thehiddenhut) beach cafe.

I cross the beach and climb up some steps where I have lovely views back across the beach.

It's now a short walk to head in to Portscatho, home of cricket. I walk through Portscatho along North Parade and drop down to explore the beach.

I explore the village a little bit, finding the Plume of Feathers. It's a lovely place but it seems to be overrun with cars nowadays.

I leave Portscatho behind, passing a lovely garden on the outskirts of the village, pass through a newly planted wood and walk through a field full of bales of hay.

I amble along the cliffs to reach Towan Beach where I enjoy the sandy beach.

On leaving Towan Beach I come across a wreck post, erected by the coastguard service and used to simulate a ship's mast in training exercises.

I round Killigerran Head and Porthmellin Head and continue along the path above Porthbeor Beach before rounding Zone Point. I thought that Porthbeor Beach was supposed to be inaccessible but, tantalisingly, I think I can make out footprints in the sand.

I pass the 19th century battery on St Anthony Head and then head down towards St Anthony's lighthouse, built in 1835. After leaving the lighthouse I have magnificent views over to St Mawes and Falmouth in the distance.

I round St Anthony Head and come across some grasshoppers chirping away before passing a clump of Scots pines where I can admire the view over to St Mawes.

I head through woods to reach St Anthony's Church, where I explore the churchyard. I pass some beehives and the rather modest Place House.

I pass some lillies in Place which apparently keep getting nicked and I've just about reached the end of my walking for the day so I wait for the ferry to St Mawes at Toddy's Steps. I catch the 15:15 ferry over to St Mawes and the ferryman says that I can buy a combined ferry ticket at the ticket office in St Mawes. It's a thoroughly pleasant 5 minute trip.

I leave the ferry and purchase my £9 combined ticket and then wait for the connecting ferry to take me back to Falmouth. I catch the 15:45 ferry and it's now a pleasant 15 minute journey to my destination for the day, Prince of Wales Pier in Falmouth.

It's now a short walk through the busy streets of Falmouth to return to our cottage for the week in Port Pendennis.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

large flowered evening primrose
red valerian
fuchsias
gorse
bracken
red admirals
speckled woods
red campion
bladder campion
herb robert
crocosmias
blackberries
rape
elderberries
hydrangeas
sheep
mushrooms
cows
starfish
dartmoor ponies
buzzards
red hot pokers
scots pines
robins
grasshoppers
lillies
bees
cormorants

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16.85 miles today which amounts to 36482 steps. The walking has been fantastic and the weather has been glorious. Ten out of ten!

Both of my GPS apps failed me today so I've only got two incomplete maps of the walk.

holywell to portreath

September 17, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 15th september 2015

After yesterday's spectacularly atrocious weather I'm in for a much better day today. The wind has abated and I should even see the sun today.

Perranporth high tide 07:02

Perranporth low tide 13:13

Today I'm back in tin mining country and I'll encounter the remnants of this industry all day long.

I start the day back at Holywell Bay beach where I enjoy the fine, golden sand. It's a much calmer scene today and I can actually stand upright on the beach. I head back into the dune system where a footbridge takes me over the river.

A sign warns me that adders may be basking on sunny days in the dunes but I don't see any.

A now overgrown big, red sign warns me about the dangers of entering Penhale Army Training Area. Odd because Penhale Camp was closed by the Ministry of Defence in April 2010 and partially sold off in September of the same year.

I round Penhale Point, taking one last glance back over Holywell.

I avoid the mine shafts and continue along the cliffs above Hobblyn's Cove.

Penhale Camp is now the home to the Penhale Military Adventure Training Centre and offers a broad range of military adventurous training.

I round Ligger Point and have magnificent views along Perran Bay. I can see that the waves are crashing against the cliffs in the distance so I won't be able to make it all the way along the beach to Perranporth. I think I can make out an exit point about a mile down the beach so I should be able to make it onto the dune system.

I wander down the path to reach Perran Beach and I now hopefully have a one mile trudge along fine, golden sands before clambering back onto the sand dunes to reach Perranporth.

Behind the beach is Penhale Sands, the most extensive system of sand dunes in Cornwall.

About a mile down the beach I come to the exit point next to the lifeguard station and I clamber up the steep concrete path and then wander through the dune system to reach the beach at Perranporth.

I wander along the beach front at Perranporth, passing the Black Flag Brewery (@blackflagbrews) and the Tywarnhayle Inn (@tywarnhayleinn) and climb up Cliff Road passing above the Seiners Arms (@SeinersArms) to leave Perranporth, where I have fine views back across the town and beach.

I pass a sundial thing pointing north and loads of flowers and memorials including this rather sad one …..

“An angel in the book of life
wrote down our baby’s birth
and whispered as she closed the book
too beautiful for earth”

I walk behind the rather ugly Droskyn Castle and pass the youth hostel on Droskyn Point. I pass a memorial bench and next to it is a pile of stones. I assume the two are related somehow.

I'm now firmly in tin mining country and I walk through a scarred landscape of capped mine shafts, crumbling buildings and spoil heaps.

The gorse and heather is making the top of the cliffs very colourful.

I head across Cligga Head and amble along the crumbling cliffs next to Perranporth Airfield, now home to Perranporth Flying Club but once a Second World War airfield. I don't see or hear any planes. The British and Colonial Explosive Works, opened in 1893, used to exist here but were largely destroyed by the construction of the airfield.

I pass some concrete bunkers and I can now see the village of St Agnes climbing up the valley above Trevaunance Cove.

I head down into the valley at Trevellas Combe, where there is a shingly and stony beach. The valley here was heavily mined and various remains of Blue Hills Mine, which closed in 1897, can be found here, including the crumbling engine house.

I head inland next to the road and river to reach Blue Hills Tin Streams. The valley floor here once contained extensive tin stream works, used to recover any tin that could be gleaned from the river.

I cross a road bridge and then trudge up a steep track before descending to Trevaunance Cove, at the foot of the village of St Agnes.

Five attempts were made to construct an artificial harbour here to serve the mines in the surrounding area but all that remains are a pile of granite blocks at the bottom of the cliff, once part of the breakwater.

granite blocks at the bottom of the cliff

I wander back up to St Agnes heading slightly inland but not quite reaching the Driftwood Spars (@driftwoodspars). I follow the road out of Trevaunance Cove which leads me to Trevaunance Point where I have a lovely view back over the cove next to some dahlias.

I follow the path to St Agnes Head, on the way passing the remains of what was once Polberro Mine. I walk underneath the National Coastwatch station and then follow the cliffs in a southerly direction and have magnificent views back to Penhale Sands and forward over Chapel Porth and Porthtowan.

I pass Tubby's Head, home to an Iron Age promontory fort before passing below the photogenic and much photographed (and that includes by me!) Towanroath pumping engine house at Wheal Coates, built in 1872 and now owned by the National Trust.

The coast path eventually leads me to Chapel Porth, home to the Chapel Porth Beach Cafe. I wander down to the beach and enjoy the sand before heading inland past the cafe and next to the stream.

Inland slightly can be found Wheal Charlotte, opened in 1806 but with a ropey mining history and now owned by the National Trust.

I cross the stream and then walk inland up a gentle path before swinging sharply back round again and climb uphill on to the cliffs where I come across more spoil heaps. I amble along the cliffs, admiring the views over Porthtowan.

I drop down to the village, walking past the Blue Bar beach cafe, and head out on to the large sandy beach. This is one of the best surfing beaches around and there's a bit of action out on the waves today.

Within the valley leading down to the sea at Porthtowan can be found Wheal Ellen with its distinctive castellated chimney stack, Tywarnhaile Mines and United Hills. In the heart of the village can be found Wheal Lushington, built in the 1880s, but the company building it went bankrupt before the engine could be installed and it is now a residential house.

I head back up the beach and pass the Unicorn before following the road up to what was once the Beach Hotel but where apartments appear to have been built.

I continue along a track set back from the cliffs and pass Gullyn Rock and Sheep Rock, next to the fence surrounding what was once Portreath Airfield on Nancekuke Common. Warning signs keep telling me that I'm walking next to MOD property and should KEEP OUT. Quite why the MOD needs so much land sitting idly I do not know.

The walking towards Portreath is pretty uneventful except having to climb down and up steps at a couple of steep valleys.

I walk along Lighthouse Hill with views over the harbour and the beach at Portreath.

The road takes me down to The Square where I find the Portreath Arms and Portreath Bakery. From here it's a short walk past the harbour and The Waterfront Inn (@beachpub) and up to the car park above the beach.

That's my walking finished for the week.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

heather
gorse
bracken
gulls
hemp agrimony
oystercatchers
wrens
robins
red admiral
hawthorn
dahlias
red and white valerian
apples
large flowered evening primroses
hydrangeas
crocosmia
small tortoiseshell
swallows
goldfinches

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.5 miles today which amounts to 41534 steps. After yesterday's terrible weather it has been lovely walking today and the views have been magnificent. Nine out of ten!

porthcothan to holywell

September 14, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

monday, 14th september 2015

The weather forecast for the day is truly atrocious. And, for once, the weather turns out to be much worse than the forecast. I had to cope with heavy rain for most of the day and the wind was blowing an almighty gale. The screenshot of my weather app below does not do the weather justice. It was comfortably the worst weather I've ever walked in which meant that I was unable to take any photos or make any recordings so today's walk will be a very short posting for record only. I did make it all the way in one piece though! Just about!!

I do have a spare day at the end of the week so I may try to walk this one again.

Newquay high tide 06:33

Newquay low tide 12:47

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.75 miles today which amounts to 40180 steps. The terrible conditions meant that I barely saw anything but it was an exhilarating ride. Nine out of ten!