the river erme to outer hope

May 14, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

14th may 2014

Today's weather forecast looks to be fantastic again, with sun forecast all day long and warm temperatures. Woop!

Dartmouth high tide 19:00

Dartmouth low tide 12:02

I resume my walking on a country lane about a mile away from the mouth of the River Erme, first thing in the morning. The plan for the day is to walk to Outer Hope which isn't very far on a map but I'll have to head a long way inland to skirt around the River Avon.

I enjoy the wildflowers romping away in the roadside verges and there are loads of butterflies flittering away even at this early hour. I even find a couple of obliging specimens to photograph.

I continue down the lane to reach Wonwell Beach and admire the fine views back across Erme Mouth. It's surprisingly busy at this time of the morning - well, there was a couple of dog walkers and three fellow coast path walkers.

I walk across Ferrycombe Beach and then I'm immediately greeted by skylark song before climbing onto Beacon Point at 330 feet and then Hoist Point. After that there is a steep drop down to Westcombe Beach. It's pretty remote here so I have the whole beach to myself.

I climb a steep set of steps and enjoy the fine views over the rugged South Devon coastline before reaching Ayrmer Cove. The beach is deserted so I spend some quality time wandering around, exploring the strandline.

I climb onto Toby's Point before dropping down to Challaborough Bay. Here can be found the Challaborough Bay Holiday Park. It's busier on Challaborough Beach but you wouldn't guess it from the photograph.

I amble across the beach admiring the views over to Burgh Island.

I climb off of the beach and head for Bigbury-on-Sea. The tide is out so I enjoy the fine sandy beach and take the opportunity to wander over to Burgh Island. The Pilchard Inn, dating back to 1336, can be found on the island but it's nowhere near opening time. The sea tractor, which carries passengers back and forth between the island and the mainline when the tide is in, is parked next to the island.

I head inland along the B3392 to reach a sign giving details of the ferry over the River Avon.

The ferry only seems to run between 10am and 11am so I've missed it by about three quarters of an hour. I head inland along the 9 mile diversion around the River Avon but almost immediately get lost as the signs make no sense. I abandon the diversion, summon up a lift and head back to Bigbury-on-Sea.

My lift arrives at the Bigbury-on-Sea car park and we drive around the River Avon to reach Bantham village, passing the Sloop Inn. As I write this, the village of Bantham is due to be sold shortly for an estimated price of £10 million. Seems nice here so I check my pockets but all I've got is loose change.

I explore sandy Bantham Beach before regaining the coast path proper where there are fine views back along the coast to Burgh Island but I head in the other direction along the edge of Thurlestone Golf Course.

I wander across Thurlestone Beach and then South Milton Sands. Thurlestone Rock can be seen out at sea. South Milton Sands features in this short clip from The Storms that Shook the Southwest shown on BBC1.

The coast path is closed here so I divert along a road to Pitchingstone Cross and then along what is flattering described as an unmetalled road - it's a track! The diversion heads back towards the sea and then descends to Hope Cove and my destination for the day, Outer Hope, I get tantalisingly close to Outer Hope (10 metres!) before a bizarre diversion forces me uphill again and around Outer Hope before descending in to the village again.

Easy walking takes me down to the Hope and Anchor Inn. That's the end of the walking for this week. I'll be back on the South West Coast Path on the 7th of June (happy birthday to me!) when I'll probably walk from Penzance to Falmouth.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

wall brown butterflies
speckled wood butterflies
peacock butterflies
bluebells
red campion
wild garlic
cow parsley
skylarks
chaffinches
navelwort

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15 miles today which amounts to 32274 steps. I've had gorgeous sunny weather all day long, it's been a beautiful spring day and the walking has been fantastic. 9 out of 10.

View the river erme to outer hope in a larger map

plymouth to the river erme

May 13, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

13th may 2014

Today's weather forecast looks to be fantastic again, with sun forecast for all day and even the wind looks to have died down finally.

Dartmouth high tide 11:39

Dartmouth low tide 18:15

Today's walk starts at the Mountbatten Centre on the edge of the Plym estuary on the Mount Batten peninsula. From here I pass the Hotel Mount Batten and the berth for the Mount Batten Ferry. Ideally I'd have caught this ferry over from the Barbican but it would have meant getting caught in traffic travelling in to Plymouth.

I walk around the breakwater taking in memorials for RAF Mount Batten and Laurence of Arabia, who was stationed here. RAF Mount Batten was a Royal Air Force station and flying boat base but little of it remains today. Storm damage due to the winter storms seems to be the order of the day and I encounter my first storm damage sign of the day here.

Steps lead up to the Mount Batten Tower, a 30 foot high gun tower which was used to guard the southern approach to Plymouth harbour.

I take in the views around Plymouth Sound before heading off of Mount Batten peninsula and on to Jennycliff, where there is a small pebble beach with rock pools. Unfortunately the beach is closed due to storm damage.

I head on high over a small harbour at Staddon Point and then pass Staddon Point Battery and Fort Bovisand. A landslide here last year forced the Royal Navy to relocate its diving school from here.

I pass Bovisand Holiday Park and the Beachcomber Cafe and eventually reach the Mewstone, a wedged shape island just offshore. I continue around Wembury Point to reach Wembury Beach, a sandy beach at low tide. Here can be found Old Mill Cafe and Wembury Marine Centre.

I leave the beach and climb up towards Saint Werburgh's Church, admiring the views over the Yealm estuary before climbing down to the ferry pier on the banks of the River Yealm.

Handily the ferry is waiting for me so I climb aboard and then enjoy crossing the river to reach the shore at Noss Mayo. The crossing costs £3 but I tip extra. It's a long old trek trying to get around the River Yealm! The coast path doesn't go through the village here so I can't enjoy the delights of the Ship Inn but it's too early for opening time anyway.

I walk along the sandy river bank and climb some steps up from the pier on the other side of the River Yealm and pass Ferryman's Cottage before entering Passage Wood. The path winds its way out of the woods before entering Brakehill Plantation. Bluebells are everywhere and skylarks are singing their hearts out!

A pleasant walk crosses grassy and rugged slopes and eventually reaches Beacon Hill where there is a ruined lookout. There are loads of butterflies around here including wall brown butterflies.

A gladed path leads past Stoke Point and there are wildflowers and butterflies everywhere and I manage to get my first ever photographs of red admirals.

I reach a place which seems to be called Revelstoke but I can't see it on my map. A diversion (self inflicted this time) takes me to the church of St Peter the Poor Fisherman, no longer used for regular worship but still consecrated.

I retrace my steps to walk past some irises at the caravan park here and then rejoin the coast path.

I begin to see tomorrow's walk laid out before me and the coast path then drops steeply into a grassy hollow before climbing steeply out again.

Some cows block the path on the way to St Anchorite's Rock, an impressive looking large rocky tor, but they are docile enough and I don't come to any harm passing them.

The path eventually drops down to Meadowfoot Beach at the head of the River Erme. I cross the sandy beach, climb some steps and then walk back down to the Mothecombe Slipway at Erme Mouth. Here my day ends as the only way to cross the River Erme is to ford it and, since I can't swim, there's no way I'm going to chance it. It's also not low tide so even fording is out of the question.

Instead I head inland to the car park nearby where my lift is waiting to take us back to our home for the week, Heron's Rest. Since I've built up a bit of a thirst some bottles of Doom Bar await back at the cottage.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

chaffinches
wrens
swallows
skylarks
bluebells
red campion
wild garlic
cormorants
sheep
cows
foxgloves
orange tip butterflies
wall brown butterflies
red admirals
speckled wood butterflies
navelwort
oaks
ferns
canada geese

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 17.6 miles today which amounts to 37799 steps. What a delightful walk and the weather has been fantastic again. 9 out of 10.

View plymouth to the river erme in a larger map

outer hope to torcross

May 11, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

11th may 2014

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good with maybe the odd shower but mostly sun all day and it looks like the wind has died down a bit.

Dartmouth high tide 16:42

Dartmouth low tide 09:59

The beginning of the day sees me back in Outer Hope next to the Hope and Anchor Inn, where I follow the road and a path through the village to reach Inner Hope. I climb some steps out of Inner Hope and follow a woodland path out on to the open slopes leading to Bolt Tail where I enjoy the views across Hope Cove.

I walk around the headland and then climb Bolberry Down at 395 feet. The path continues before dropping steeply from Cathole Cliff into a valley where a footbridge crosses Soar Mill Cove.

I walk along The Warren where I enjoy the views back to Bolt Tail. Last time I was here it was covered in thick fog and I could barely see anything but today the weather is sunny so I reach Bolt Head without any mishaps. I pause to admire the views here before continuing along the path.

I cross a stream using a stone slab to reach Starehole Bay and climb a steep slope followed by some stone steps to reach Sharp Tor with some fine views towards Salcombe.

The path continues through woods before reaching a dirt road. It's a lovely walk here and there are wildflowers everywhere.

A proper road continues to the beach at South Sands. I continue on the road, first rising uphill and then down to North Sands Beach, where I pass some red hot pokers, before rising up and down again to reach Salcombe.

I walk around to the Ferry Inn (@TFISalcombe) and climb down to the jetty where I catch the ferry over from Salcombe to East Portlemouth and come ashore at the Venus Cafe. I turn right and follow a minor road to reach Mill Bay, where I enjoy find views back across to Salcombe.

I walk on towards Gara Rock. There are bluebells everywhere!

I cross a footbridge by a crumbling ruin and the path eventually leads to Gammon Head, given to the National Trust by the Rose family on the 5th of January 1965. The path zig zags to reach Prawle Point National Coastwatch Station but is poorly signposted so I get lost. Eventually I find my way to the car park at East Prawle.

The path passes in front of Maelcombe House before reaching Lannacombe Beach. I avoid falling down the crumbling cliff at The Narrows where I find my one and only orchid of the day. I'm clearly not looking out for them properly!

I head round Start Point and pass the Start Point Lighthouse.

I follow the path down a steep slope to reach Hallsands. I last walked through here in April 2012 and, shortly afterwards, in May 2012, an access road, viewing platform and two houses were affected by a 200 tonne landslide. I wander down to the viewing platform to assess the damage.

The path continues to Greenstraight Beach and then on to Tinsey Head before dropping down to Beesands. I walk along the road at Beesands to reach the Cricket Inn (@TheCricketInn), birthplace of the Rolling Stones, where I stop for a pint of Otter Brewery's (@otterbrewery) Otter Bitter and then continue on my way past St Andrew's Church.

I inspect the storm damaged beach at Beesands before heading off towards Torcross.

A short walk takes me to Torcross where I climb down steps, admiring the view across Slapton Sands, to reach the promenade and the end of my walk. I walk past the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) and the Sherman tank, honouring the memory of servicemen, and head in to the car park where my lift awaits.

Torcross and Slapton Sands also took a battering in this winter's storms, although most of the damage has been cleared now

In 1943, Torcross and the surrounding area was evacuated so that Slapton Sands could be used as a training area in preparation for the D-Day landings. This video tells the story of the evacuation all those years ago in the words of seven local residents who were children at the time.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

skylarks
woodpeckers
bluebells
wild garlic
red campion
red hot pokers
little egret
one orchid
navelwort
dead nettles

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

Phew! What a trek!! According to my phone I've walked 26.2 miles today which amounts to 46914 steps. Although it has been a blustery day (nothing like yesterday though) the weather has been fantastic, the rain stayed away and the walking has been great. 9 out of 10.

View outer hope to toreros in a larger map

heron's rest to torcross

May 10, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

10th may 2014

We're staying this week in a cottage called Heron's Rest, thanks to Classic Cottages. The cottage is set in a peaceful location, high above the Dart valley overlooking Dartmouth.

The weather forecast for today has been dreadful (but getting progressively better) all week and after heavy overnight rain it looks like I've got a thoroughly nice spring day to look forward to. Could be a bit blustery though.

Dartmouth high tide 15:49

Dartmouth low tide 08:59

After packing my bag, I leave Heron's Rest for the walk through Long Wood down to the ferry crossing over the River Dart to Dartmouth. It's a lovely Spring day so I take advantage and photograph some of the spring flowers.

Just before leaving Long Wood I come across a sign warning of basking adders. Unfortunately the day is still young and so hasn't warmed up yet so I don't come across any.

After the delightful walk through Long Wood I reach the bank of the River Dart and catch the Higher Ferry (I was robbed of 50p for the crossing!) over to Dartmouth.

I amble through Dartmouth passing the Floating Bridge Inn and come across a Morgan Roadstar Brooklands Edition car parked on the waterfront.

I continue ambling through Dartmouth passing the Ship in the Dock Inn, the Windjammer Inn and the George and Dragon before walking along the cobbled waterfront, passing Bayards Cove Inn and then through Bayards Cove Fort, a small Tudor artillery fort guarding Dartmouth's inner harbour. I climb steps to leave the waterfront and head through Warfleet Creek and towards St Petrox Church.

From here I head next door to Dartmouth Castle which, for over 600 years, has guarded the narrow entrance to the Dart estuary.

The path zig zags out towards Blackstone Point, Coombe Point and then Warren Point, passing secluded coves on the way before heading inland to reach a minor road. This road leads to the A379 which takes me in to Stoke Fleming where I pass the Green Dragon and St Peter's Church.

I follow the A379 (think I've gone the wrong way!) out of Stoke Fleming and on to Blackpool Sands where I have a potter around the shingly beach. The Venus Beach Cafe can be found here.

I leave Blackpool Sands via a lovely woodland path and cross a steep grassy valley and then a rather circuitous route (needless to say I got lost!) to reach Strete where I pass the King's Arms (it seems to be closed and is to let) and see St Michael's Church in the distance.

I follow the A379 out of Strete before a path takes me down to the Strete Gate picnic site from where I drop down onto Slapton Sands. I trudge along the beach which starts off sandy but soon becomes more shingly.

The wind has been blustery all day but seems to turn into a gale here and I can barely stay on my feet so I head back to the main road to try and find some relief, cross it, and drop down to a path that follows the road in front of Slapton Ley. There isn't any relief!

From here it should be an easy walk to the car park at Torcross, the destination for today's walk. Unfortunately, today it isn't an easy walk so I stumble around in the wind until I reach the car park where I shelter in a hide overlooking Slapton Ley for a bit.

I leave the shelter of the hide, head past the Sherman tank at the entrance of the car park and on to the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) where I enjoy a yummy pint of Otter Brewery's Otter Ale.

I leave the shelter of the hide, head past the Sherman tank at the entrance of the car park and on to the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) where I enjoy a yummy pint of Otter Brewery's Otter Ale.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

owls
magpies
no adders
chaffinches
robins
wrens
thrushes
empty snail shells
skylarks
bluebells
wild garlic
swallows
red campion

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16 miles today (much further than I was expecting) which amounts to 32396 steps. Despite the wind for most of the day it has been a great day's spring walking with plenty of interest to see throughout the day. 9 out of 10.

View heron's rest to torcross in a larger map

bridport farmers' market

January 11, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

11th january 2014

Today's weather forecast looks like it will be fantastic, especially considering the amount of rain we've had recently, and does, indeed, turn out to be bright, sunny and warm. Must make the most of it as it doesn't look like it will last vey long.

Today is Bridport Farmers' Market day which is a perfect excuse for heading out to the South West Coast Path at West Bay. The farmers' market is held on the second Saturday of every month in the Arts Centre (@BridportArts).

Producers attending the market today included :-

Barley Sugar Bakehouse (@TheBarleySugar) - yummy treacle tart with orange and ginger today
Bothen Hill Produce (@bothenhill)
Bridge Farm Cider
Bridport Gourment Pies (@bridportpies)
Daisy's Woodland Chicken
Dorset Coffee
Elwell Fruit Farm
Fussels (@andy_fuss)
Homemade by Lizzie and Bekki- the baking birds (@bekkibemrose and @lizzibakingbird)
Leakers Bakery (@leakersbakery)
Meat Free Martha (@meatfreemartha)
Mere Fish Farm (@MereFishFarm)
Stockland Venison
Woolsery Cheese (@woolserycheese)
Wyld Meadow Farm

First up is a wander around Bridport (including stocking up on supplies at Leakers Bakery (@leakersbakery)), exploring the saturday market and along the way passing The Ropemakers, the George Hotel, the Woodman Inn, The Greyhound, The Bull Hotel and The Hope & Anchor.

After that I head out to West Bay along the Monarch's Way to join the South West Coast Path. It's pretty muddy out so I squelch along the fields at a very slow pace before reaching Park Dean Holiday Park at West Bay.

After exploring West Bay for a bit - passing the George Hotel and The West Bay Hotel - I trudge along the beach to reach Freshwater Beach Holiday Park, enjoying the mild January weather.

Here I head inland slightly, walking through the holiday park - it's pretty dead at this time of year - and then through fields to reach Burton Bradstock. I turn left to walk through part of the village and then head towards St Mary's church. I cross the stream that burbles away here and then cross fields to reach Hive Beach.

Often I'll continue walking along Cogden Beach before doubling back on myself, crossing fields to reach the National Trust car park above Cogden but today is a short walk day so I end my walk by the Hive Beach Cafe, which is closed this week for annual maintenance but is open for business again on Monday.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

sheep
robins
lots of dogs
lots of gulls

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

I've walked about 5.5 miles today. My pedometer app failed me again but it should be about 12000 steps.

Love Bridport.

Love West Bay.

Gorgeous weather.

10 out of 10.

We'll be back next month.

View bridport to burton bradstock in a larger map

I didn't do any recording today but below is a recording from farmers' market day back in October. It includes recording from Bridport itself, Bridport Farmers' Market, the river behind Palmers Brewery, West Bay, Harbour Amusements in West Bay, West Bay beach, St Mary's Church, Burton Bradstock and Hive Beach at Burton Bradstock.