dartmouth to brixham
south west coast path
saturday, 3rd september 2022
The weather forecast for this week looks awful but I might just about get away with a day without rain today.
Dartmouth high tide 11:10
Dartmouth low tide 16:52
I start the day in Dartmouth and head through the lower part of Dartmouth where I have lovely views across to Kingswear.
I amble down towards the lower ferry and wait for it to cross over from Kingswear.
I cross over the River Dart to Kingswear using the lower ferry which costs me £1.50. It’s exactly the same cost as six years ago. On reaching Kingswear I pass under an arch next to the post office and then climb up Alma Steps.
I take one final look back over to Dartmouth and then set off for Brixham.
I follow a minor road out of the village where I come across the autumn flowers of amaryllis, hydrangea, agapanthus and cyclamen. I then follow a private road towards Kingswear Court.
I enter Warren Woods and zig zag down a slope, cross over a stream and then zig zag up the other side of the valley.
I now have lovely views back over to Dartmouth Castle on the other side of the river mouth.
I reach Brownstone Battery at Inner Froward Point, built in 1940 to protect the Dart estuary and Slapton and Blackpool Sands from enemy invasion.
I pass by Froward Point Coastwatch Station and head down the battery.
The battery consists of two gun positions and each would have been armed with six inch guns. The gun emplacements remain to this day as do the two magazines that served the guns. Below the gun emplacements are two searchlight positions which would have scanned the sea for enemy ships. The trouble is that all of the information boards that were here six years ago seem to have disintegrated so nobody passing now would be able to read about all of this.
The path zig zags up and down the cliffs towards Outer Froward Point where, out to sea, can be seen Shooter Rock, Shag Stone and Mew Stone. I continue meandering along the coast path passing Old Mill Bay, Kelly's Cove and Pudcombe Cove.
I come across the rear entrance of Coleton Fishacre which used to be infested with rhododendrons (presumably ponticum) but these appear to have been grubbed up now leaving hydrangeas all around.
I round Scabbacombe Head and then a steep, slippery descent leads me down to Scabbacombe Sands. Everywhere is so parched that it feels like I’m constantly pouding on concrete.
I come across fresh pony poo but I don’t see any ponies today. I also come across several beetles writhing on their backs so I stop to put them upright.
I head along the cliffs high above Long Sands and round Crabrock Point, passing Crabrock Point Coastguard Cottage, to reach Man Sands where I enjoy the pebbly and sandy beach, although there’s not much in the way of sand. For such an isolated beach it is surprisingly busy.
It is a steep climb up onto Southdown Cliff and I have to stop several times to catch my breath - otherwise known as admiring the view.
I reach Sharkham Point and then head around St Mary's Bay, passing below the holiday village. I head down some concrete steps where the cliffs are infested with japanese knotweed and head out onto St Mary's Bay Beach. There are a few dog walkers on the beach but there’s not much of a beach today.
It is now a short walk to Berry Head, a National Nature Reserve, where I amble along the meandering paths.
I join a road which passes the Berry Head Hotel and walk through Shoalstone Car Park. It is now a pleasant waterfront walk leading me into Brixham where I pass above the art deco Shoalstone Sea Water Pool.
A harbourside walk from the breakwater takes me past the marina and into the centre of the town.
I pass by a memorial garden dedicated to the memory of Winston Spencer Churchill and opened on the 24th May 1966. I don’t know whether there is any connection between Churchill and Brixham.
I pass Torbay Lifeboat Station next to the marina.
I pass a statue of William Prince of Orange, who landed here on the 5th of November 1688, standing at the head of the harbour.
“The Liberties of England and The Protestant Religion I Will Maintain”
I amble around the harbour, passing the full sized replica of the Golden Hind in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the globe but Brixham is way too busy for me today so I don’t hang about.
I head behind Brixham Fish Market to reach the car park where my lift awaits.
FLORA AND FAUNA
Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-
amaryllis
hydrangea
agapanthus
cyclamen
stonechats
gunnera
speckled wood butterflies
fuchsia
herb robert
buddleia
red valerian
sloes
japanese knotweed
PODCAST
The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.
MARKS OUT OF TEN?
According to my phone I've walked 12.1 miles which amounts to 32273 steps. It has taken me six hours. The weather has been pretty good given the forecast and I haven’t encountered any rain. Eight out of ten!