salcombe to torcross

May 15, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

wednesday, 10th may 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good although I don't like the look of those easterly winds. It could feel a bit cold today.

Salcombe high tide 06:32 and 18:57

Salcombe low tide 12:42

I start the day back in Salcombe and walk around to the Ferry Inn (@TFISalcombe) and climb down to the jetty where I catch the 08:30 ferry over from Salcombe to East Portlemouth. There's only one other passenger at this time of the morning. The ferry fare is £1.60.

I come ashore at the Venus Cafe, turn right and immediately come across a clump of stumpy echiums.

I follow a minor road to reach Mill Bay, where I enjoy fine views back across to Salcombe. A mass of sand from the beach has blown onto the road. The road verges are covered in wildflowers. I come across masses of a bell like plant I don't recognize. I search in my wildflower book when I get back to the cottage but I don't find it in there. It must be the three-cornered garlic (allium triquetrum) though and I come across it throughout my walk today.

I come across audio clip point B on the East Portlemouth to Gara Rock walk.

I scan the QR code back at our cottage and it does indeed work. I've found other audio clips of the East Portlemouth to Gara Rock Walk on the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website.

I walk along the cliffs along Portlemouth Down towards Gara Rock. There are bluebells everywhere!

I find audio clip point C and then come across a plaque commemorating the centenary of the Salcombe lifeboat disaster, when the RNLI lifeboat William and Emma capsized off Salcombe Bar with the loss of thirteen crew on the 27th of October 1916. I then come across audio clip point D.

I have lovely views ahead of me towards Gara Rock and Gammon Head.

I come across my first green hairstreak of the year but it doesn't seem to have the dotted, broken white line along the hindwing.

The paths are covered in foxgloves just coming into flower. I love foxgloves!

I come across stonechats clacking away in the gorse.

I come across common bird's-foot trefoil, a scabious of some kind and something I don't recognize. I've come across it at home as well but it doesn't seem to feature in my wildflower book.

I spot a beach with some people on it. I'm pretty certain I thought that beach was inaccessible but it clearly isn't.

Next to a crumbling ruin I find the path down to the beach where a family were enjoying the beach on their own until my appearance. They have a chocolate labrador who starts to bark at me but quietens down and comes over to say hello once I remove my bag with its sticky out walking pole. I enjoy the beach for a while then retrace my steps back up to the crumbling ruin.

The beach doesn't seem to be marked on my map but is known as Seacombe Sand and a very nice place it is.

Next to the crumbling ruin I cross a footbridge and enter West Prawle, Higher House and Borough farms and there are foxgloves and spurges everywhere. They look like wood spurges to me but it's not particularly woody.

I continue along Deckler's Cliff passing Deckler's Island, Shag Rock and Bullock Cove.

I spot another lovely looking beach, this time at Venerick's Cove. I know it's accessible as I've just seen someone down there. I scramble down myself but I don't quite make it to the beach as my heavy rucksack is making things a little unsafe.

I scramble back up and come across more of what appears to be bloody crane's-bill.

I continue along the coast path past Pig's Nose, Ham Stone and Bull Rock. I head out on to Gammon Head, given to the National Trust by the Rose family on the 5th of January 1965.

The view over Gammon Head is magnificent.

I come across yet another lovely beach, this time at Maceley Cove. Someone is sat on the beach reading and has scrawled a message in the sand. It is a very steep descent to the beach but my rucksack makes the decision not to descend easy. I'll have to come back another day with a lighter pack.

I come across two fishermen fishing from the rocks before the path zig zags to reach Prawle Point National Coastwatch Station.

I got completely lost the last time I was here so I concentrate but I needn't have bothered as the path is easy to follow and properly marked. I've no idea how I managed to get lost last time. I have lovely views over towards Start Point before coming across a herd of friendly cows blocking the coast path. I continue along the path which takes me past Cobstone Cove, Western Cove, Landing Cove and Wollow Cove.

The path verges are full of wildflowers so I amble along taking photographs. It's extremely windy and there's no shelter from the cold, easterly wind.

I round Langerstone Point and pass Sharper's Cove and Horseley Cove where a field trip appears to be taking place on the rocky beach.

The path passes in front of Maelcombe House and crosses Woodcombe Point, covered in wildflowers and I also come across another clump of early purple orchids.

I reach Lannacombe Beach and bump into a fellow coast path walker who I've come across several times over the last two days.

I leave the beach and enter Down Farm where I come across a lone iris looking out to sea.

I pass Limpet Cove where I come across a blue butterfly feeding on a bluebell (which I assume is a holly blue) and another green hairstreak, this time with the much more familiar broken, dotted white markings on the hindwing.

I pass Great Mattiscombe Sand which I must visit one day as it looks lovely and out to sea are Frenchman's Rock, Barler Rock, Little Sleaden Rock and Great Sleaden Rock. I head round Start Point and pass the Start Point Lighthouse.

I was hoping for some respite from the wind on rounding Start Point but, nope, instead of blasting straight into my face it's now blasting into my side. I come across a red admiral resting on nettles but I've got completely the wrong lens on my camera. Fortunately there's enough resolution in the photo to do a bit of judicial cropping which I rarely do.

I follow the path down a steep slope to reach Hallsands. In May 2012, an access road, viewing platform and two houses were affected by a 200 tonne landslide.

The path continues to Greenstraight Beach and then on to Tinsey Head before dropping down to Beesands. I walk along the road at Beesands to reach the Cricket Inn (@TheCricketInn), birthplace of the Rolling Stones, before continuing on my way past St Andrew's Church.

I wander along the beach at Beesands before heading off towards my destination for the day, Torcross.

I climb up the wooded slopes of the cliff where I come across an orange tip butterfly (that makes four species photographed today - not bad) and another clump of early purple orchids and I take one last time this week to enjoy the wildflowers.

A short walk takes me to Torcross where I climb down steps, admiring the view across Slapton Sands, to reach the promenade and the end of my walk. I walk past the Start Bay Inn (@StartBayInn) and the Sherman tank, honouring the memory of servicemen, and head in to the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

echiums
red campion
chiffchaffs
bugle
alexanders
cow parsley
lords and ladies
herb robert
three-cornered garlic
celandines
bluebells
primroses
cormorants
wall butterflies
stonechats
green hairstreaks
bladder campion
foxgloves
common bird's-foot trefoil
a small copper butterfly
bloody crane's-bill
wild carrot
skylarks
swifts
ribwort plantain
a lonely iris
oystercatchers
a holly blue butterfly
an orange tip butterfly
a red admiral butterfly
early purple orchids

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.1 miles today which amounts to 32660 steps. It has been a cold day tackling biting easterly winds in just a t-shirt and shorts but the walking has been lovely. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 215 metres or 705 feet.

MAP

aveton gifford to salcombe

May 15, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

tuesday, 9th may 2017

It looks like I'm going to have nice weather today although it doesn't look like it's going to be particularly warm.

Salcombe high tide 05:52 and 18:21

Salcombe low tide 12:04

I start the day back at Aveton Gifford and follow the main road over the river before following a lane taking me away from Aveton Gifford where I immediately come across a cheerful patch of red hot pokers.

I pass South Efford Marsh, a nature reserve run by Devon Wildlife Trust, one of South Devon's premier bird watching places.

A steep climb takes me up to Higher Stadbury and I admire the wildflowers as I climb. The path verges here are covered in wild garlic.

I come across a field full of orchids but they are tantalisingly out of reach behind a barbed wire fence. A bit further on though I come across a patch of early purple orchids next to the footpath.

I cross Staddicombe Creek over a footbridge and then enter Staddicombe Wood. Again there's wild garlic everywhere.

As I leave the woods full of pheasant squawks and crows caws I get my first proper glimpse of the river.

I come across another Avon Estuary Walk sign for an audio clip. I appear to have missed B, C and D either yesterday or today but I wasn't particularly looking out for them.

I scan the QR code back at our cottage and it does indeed work. I've found other audio clips of the Avon Estuary Walk on the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website.

It's now a case of following more fields above the river and I have magnificent views over the river.

I join the road which takes me into Bantham village, passing the Sloop Inn. As I head down the road through Bantham swifts are screeching above me. What a lovely sound they make! The last time I was here a huge chunk of the village was up for sale but it has now been sold for £11.5 million and plans are in place for some unpopular developments.

I head through the car park and explore sandy Bantham Beach where I share the beach with one other person. There are, however, a load of surfers and paddleboarders out in the sea.

I head back to the car park before regaining the coast path proper where there are fine views back along the coast to Burgh Island but I head in the other direction along the edge of Thurlestone Golf Course.

I come across big black beetles on the golf course and stonechats are clacking all around me in the scrubby vegetation. I take in more of the wildflowers on the golf course and there are massive clumps of sea thrift and kidney vetch clinging to the low cliffs.

I wander across Thurlestone Beach where I come across a golf ball lodged in the sand and then Leas Foot Sand before reaching South Milton Sands. Thurlestone Rock can be seen out at sea.

The last time I was here there was a diversion inland but the coast path is back fully open now and on leaving South Milton Sands I head out onto the cliffs along what appears to be a new section of the coast path past Beacon Point and Mouthwell Point into Outer Hope. Even the diversion through Outer Hope is no longer needed and it is now a straight drop into the village.

Easy walking takes me down to the Hope and Anchor Inn. I have lovely views over Hope Cove which consists of Outer Hope Beach and Inner Hope Beach.

I follow the road and a path through the village to reach Inner Hope where I come across a friendly robin perched on a wire. He (possibly she) doesn't mind my presence in the slightest. I wander down onto the beach and explore for a bit before it's time to head for Salcombe.

I climb some steps out of Inner Hope and follow a woodland path out on to the open slopes leading to Bolt Tail where I enjoy the views across Hope Cove.

I walk around the headland passing Yeovil Rock, Wolf Rock, China Rock and Graystone Ledge and then climb Bolberry Down at 395 feet. Skylarks are everywhere singing their hearts out. The path continues before dropping steeply from Cathole Cliff into a valley where a footbridge crosses Soar Mill Cove.

I walk along The Warren where I enjoy the views back to Bolt Tail.

I pause to admire the views here before continuing along the path, passing Little Mew Stone and Mew Stone. I enjoy all of the wildflowers next to the coast path.

On the way to Bolt Head I come across a flock of friendly sheep with their lambs and suddenly there are hordes of people about (well, quite a few anyway). I'm not quite sure why as I'm still a long way from civilization so maybe there's a car park close by.

As I round Bolt Head I come across ponies but I'm not sure which type. I now have lovely views across Starehole Bay.

I cross a stream using a stone slab to reach Starehole Bay and climb a steep slope where I come across crane's-bills, probably bloody crane's-bill.

I climb some stone steps to reach Sharp Tor with some fine views towards Salcombe.

The path continues through woods before reaching a dirt road. It's a lovely walk here and there are wildflowers everywhere and the odd butterfly flitting about but they don't want to be photographed today.

A proper road continues to the beach at South Sands where I pass quite a bit of demolition and construction before passing South Sands Hotel. I explore the beach here and watch the sea tractor travel down the beach and out into the sea to greet the South Sands Ferry as it arrives at South Sands Beach.

I continue on the road, first rising uphill and then down to North Sands Beach.

I pass the Winking Prawn Beach Cafe and then pass another patch of cheery red hot pokers, before rising up and down again to reach Salcombe.

I have lovely views out to sea overlooking the estuary and also across the estuary over to East Portlemouth.

I amble along the road into Salcombe, admiring the MASSIVE echiums and the lovely views.

I walk around to the Ferry Inn (@TFISalcombe) and climb down to the jetty where I will catch the ferry over from Salcombe to East Portlemouth tomorrow. I retrace my steps and head through the narrow streets and paths of Salcombe to the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red hot pokers
ribwort plantain
lilac
chiffchaffs
wrens
chaffinches
swallows
bluebells
wild garlic
red campion
song thrushes
celandine
skylarks
pheasants
alexanders
navelwort
cuckoo flower
cow parsley
hogweed
swifts
sea thrift
kidney vetch
big black beetles
stonechats
whitethroats (probably lesser)
wild carrot
bladder campion
primroses
a friendly robin
common dog-violets
herb robert
hawthorn
bloody crane's-bill
bugle
wild strawberry
foxgloves
apple trees
echiums

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15.7 miles today which amounts to 38358 steps. The weather has been glorious today if a little on the cold side due to the winds .Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know again as my Ordnance Survey app has failed me again.

MAP

plymouth

May 14, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

monday, 8th may 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be great with sunny spells all afternoon although I'm likely to be buffeted by winds.

I've always avoided Plymouth in the past as it's too big, dirty and noisy and so not really what I'm looking for walking the south west coast path. However I walked through a bit of Plymouth last year and rather enjoyed it so since I'm down here I thought I'd walk across the whole of Plymouth this afternoon..

After a morning spent archiving I start the walk across Plymouth on the slipway for the Cremyll Ferry at Admirals Hard in Stonehouse.

A sign here tells me that the walk across Plymouth to Jenny Cliff is 10 miles. That's a bit further than I was expecting according to my rough calculations using the Ordnance Survey map.

A rather worn metal tablet set in the ground says :-

“Welcome to Plymouth. Please wipe your feet.”

which I duly do.

I pass by a pub called The Vine, the first pub in Devon and immediately come across a red south west coast path marker. I don't know who has put these up but they will prove to be baffling and often contradictory to the usual acorn markers..

I wander along Cremyl Street following handily placed coast path signs on lamp posts and have occasional views of the marina. I pass the Victualling Office Tavern which is very definitely open and there are people inside (the last time I passed here the doors were closed and I wasn't sure whether it was open for business or not).

I approach the Royal William Yard and a wooden walkway takes me around the outside of the yard before I enter.

It's rather pleasant around here and there are plenty of places to eat and drink. I wander around the yard and climb a staircase designed by Gillespie Yunnie Architects, linking Royal William Yard to the public park above. The staircase is dedicated to the memory of Eric Wallis who was secretary of the South West Coast Path Association for 24 years.

I head off through Devil's Point Park and pass a sign highlighting Plymouth's fortifications and defences over the last 800 years and then pass a sign highlighting the limestone grasslands of Plymouth's waterfront. The sign lists a series of plants that can be found in the grass behind but it all just looks a bit scrubby to me.

I then take to the streets which lead me towards the centre of Plymouth. I walk along Durnford Street where I pass St Paul's Church.

Arthur Conan Doyle practised as a doctor here and there should be Sherlock Holmes quotations all over the place but I fail to see any. I pass the Royal Marine Barracks and turn right along Barrack Road and continue along Caroline Place which takes me towards Millbay Docks, home of the King Point Marina and the Brittany Ferries terminal.

I come across a 'Wall of Stars' which lists celebrities who have sailed from Plymouth.

I then pass some gold bullion stacked up on the pavement. In the 1930s gold was frequently sent from London to the United States via Millbay Docks.

I pass the Duke of Cornwall Hotel where stones set in the pavement show how the Eddystone Lighthouse was constructed. It just looks like a load of random geometric shapes fitted together to me.

I walk along West Hoe Road and come across another wall, this time the 'Wall of Industrial Memories', a display of reclaimed and replica signs illustrating the rich industrial heritage of the Millbay Docks area.

I pass the West Hoe pub and then walk along Great Western Road where I turn into a footpath next to the lifeboat station and come across yet another wall, this time the 'Royal Navy Millenium Wall'. They like their walls around here! This wall shows some of the Navy's vessels.

I pass West Hoe Pier where there is a harbour, built in 1880 and I have fine views over Plymouth's breakwater, built between 1811 and 1841.

I continue along Hoe Road and climb up onto Plymouth Hoe, home of Smeaton's Tower. This is the lighthouse originally built on Eddystone Rocks in 1750 but relocated here in 1882.

Below me I can see the Art Deco Tinside Lido, open to the public for bathing during the summer months.

I should have come across a statue of Sir Francis Drake marking the place where he finished a game of bowls before defeating the Spanish Armada in 1588, but I fail miserably.

I carry on along Madeira Road beneath the Royal Citadel, a dramatic 17th century fortress, built to defend the coastline from the Dutch. Much of it is covered in plastic, shuttering and scaffolding but it looks like the scaffolding is coming down. At the corner of the citadel I should have come across a commemoration on the pavement of the total eclipse of the sun in August 1999 but I failed to find this as well

I come across the Mayflower Steps where the Pilgrims left England aboard the Mayflower bound for North America in 1620.

There are numerous plaques on the walls here commemorating various events in history.

I amble around Sutton Harbour and the marina here, and should pass through a lock gate and head over a swingbridge but completely miss them. I continue right around the marina to reach the National Marine Aquarium only to find that the aforementioned swingbridge is closed so it's a good job I missed it!

I continue around the marina and pass through an area called Teats Hill where Plymouth Urban Buzz are planning to sow the seed to transform the grass here into a wildflower meadow.

I turn into Breakwater Hill where I pass a massive navigation beacon marking the south west coast path.

I pass a Saint Christopher medallion but I've no idea why it's here before walking along the rather more industrial Cattedown Road where the Cattedown Wharves can be found.

I pass the Passage House pub which is now, sadly, closed for business before turning into Maxwell Road where I come across an upturned navigation beacon being used as a bench.

I turn into Finnigan Road and cross the River Plym over New Laira Bridge, built in 1962, next to the old Laira Bridge railway bridge which is now a pedestrian and cycle path. It's rather noisy and busy with traffic.

I head along Billacombe Road and past The Morley Arms which doesn't look like it will survive much longer.

Guess what? I come across another wall, this time 'The Poem Wall'.

“wallflower
the wall is itself a wallflower
in a garden gashed by greed,
our sharpest of scalpels.
but it scans the rescuing skyline
where scots pines hold sway
over the retreating tide,
their infinite dignity
towering over the brazen pylons.
At dawn it can breathe again
with the silence of the boats on the mud beyond
and listen to secrets hidden
behind the scars of this wounded wilderness.”

I come across a rhino before reaching Pomphlett Lake.

I head up Oreston Road and then turn right into Rollis Park Road where I come across The Kings Arms, a pub which is still open!

I walk up Park Lane and then take a scabby path which plunges into darkness later on before leading to Radford Castle, a 19th century folly built on the dam between Radford Lake and Hooe Lake.

I pass a sewage works and then walk along Hexton Hill Road where I come across the Royal Oak.

I walk along Hooe Lake and then turn into Barton Road and then Undercliff Road and Boringdon Road where I come across The Boringdon Arms, which my notes say is shut but it very definitely isn't. I turn into St John's Road where I come across what my notes say is a closed New Inn but has presumably reopened as the rather cheerful looking Clovelly Bay Inn.

I climb down some steps to reach the marina (Plymouth Yacht Haven) at Turnchapel and I'm now almost done for the day. I pass the Mount Batten Centre and Hotel Mount Batten.

It's now time to catch the ferry back to the Barbican. It has been a thoroughly pleasant walk through Plymouth.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

echiums
red valerian
rape
seagulls
pigeons
wrens
herb robert
wallflowers
buddleia
fennel
ribwort plantain
ox eye daisies
hawthorn
kidney vetch

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 10.5 miles today which amounts to 22627 steps. It has been a lovely day's walking through Plymouth even if the last part of the walk was a bit shabby and circuitous. It has been warm and a bit blustery at times. Eight out of ten!

My total ascent today has been an unsurprisingly small 30 metres or 98 feet.

MAP

the river erme to aveton gifford

May 14, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

sunday, 7TH MAY 2017

Today's weather forecast looks much better than yesterday's murky gloom and it should be dry and warm-ish all day and I might well get some sun.

Salcombe high tide 16:55

Salcombe low tide 10:37

I resume my walking on a country lane at Black Cross Post about three quarters of a mile above Wonwell Beach, first thing in the morning. The plan for the day is to walk to Aveton Gifford which means I'll have to head a long way inland along the River Avon.

I enjoy the wildflowers romping away in the roadside verges and the birds are singing their hearts out. There are even pheasants squawking in the fields either side of the road.

I continue down the lane to reach Wonwell Beach and admire the fine views back across Erme Mouth. It's surprisingly busy at this time of the morning with rather a lot of dog walkers.

I join the coast path and head past Red Cove, East Mary's Rock and head around Ferrycombe Point. I have lovely views over the mouth of the River Erme at low-ish tide.

I walk across Ferrycombe Beach and climb back onto the low cliffs and I have lovely views over the River Erme and out to sea.

At Scobbiscombe Farm I'm greeted by the sound of skylark song and I come across my first orchids of the year, a patch of,presumably, early purple orchids.

There are bluebells and daisies everywhere.

I climb onto Beacon Point at 330 feet and I have my first views of Bigbury-on-Sea and Burgh Island in the distance.

I then climb onto Hoist Point, passing along the way Beacon Beach, Gutterslide Beach, Meddrick Rocks and Hoist Beach. After that there is a steep drop down to Westcombe Beach. It's pretty remote but the beach is rather busy with an extended family camping here.

I climb a steep set of steps and enjoy the fine views over the rugged South Devon coastline before climbing over cliffs to reach Ayrmer Cove.

The beach is deserted except for a couple of dog walkers so I spend some quality time wandering around, exploring the strandline.

I climb onto Toby's Point and now have fine views over to Burgh Island before dropping down to Challaborough Bay. Here can be found the Challaborough Bay Holiday Park. It's busier on Challaborough Beach but you wouldn't guess it from the photograph.

I amble across the beach admiring the views over to Burgh Island.

I climb off of the beach and head for Bigbury-on-Sea. I immediately come across a sign for Mount Folly Farm but I don't see any evidence of farmland. I head through Bigbury-on-Sea and then walk through the car park before briefly dropping down to the beach. This is as close as I'll get to Burgh Island today as I'm heading off on the Avon Estuary Walk.

I head back through the car park and follow signs over a couple of bits of scrubby grassland before crossing the B3392 and walking through a car park to reach a sign giving details of the ferry over the River Avon by Mount Folly Farm. It does exist then!

The ferry only seems to run between 10am and 11am and not at all on a Sunday so I'd have been buggered if I was relying on it. I'd no intention of catching it anyway as it seems a pointless service.

I head through the farm and a steeply descending path takes me down to the River Avon estuary, walking down a scabby path full of nettles before passing The Old Boat House. I don't remember coming this way before so the coast path must have been re-routed.

There's another ferry information panel by the river but I can't see any signs for the Avon Estuary Walk. My notes talk about taking some steps and I can't see any of those either. I head down the river but it's pretty clear quickly that there's no route down there.

I head back to the ferry and follow a steep path away from the ferry and pointing to Bigbury-on-Sea. After a bit of a climb I find an Avon Estuary Walk sign. Finally I'm on the right track again!

I scan the QR code back at our cottage and it does indeed work. I've found other audio clips of the Avon Estuary Walk on the South Devon Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty website.

I reach a metalled track at Bigbury Golf Club (popular with pheasants) and follow this track to the side of the golf course and then across it.

I pass through a gate next to a cattle grid and head through Hexdown, where I'm greeted by a rather angry collie dog, and then follow a footpath down towards a private drive, which I follow. It leads to a scrappy path where I have a brief glimpse of the river through trees

I wander along the footpath admiring the wildflowers. The path verges are covered in wild garlic which is emanating a lovely oniony smell.

The footpath continues through woods and passes some isolated houses before eventually reaching the B3392 but I turn right into a field before the road and follow a permissive path through fields.

I turn right across a field marked 'Milburn Orchard 1 1/2 m'. I then have a dilemma because a sign points in a vague direction. It looks like it's pointing along the field I'm in but there's also a field next door full of cows which also has a gate and what looks like a path parallel to the one in the field I'm in.

I choose the former which is a big mistake as it clearly isn't the correct path. I retrace my steps and then there is an almighty commotion and two runners force their way through the hedge next to me. They have been attacked by bulls in the next field. I clearly can't go that way either!

I retrace my steps again along the wrong path but I'm now lost. I walk through several fields and then come across a group of houses. I go through these and come to a road. There aren't any signs but it's dropping steeply down to my right so I follow it.

Luckily it drops down to the foreshore of the River Avon and, as it's far from high tide, I'm now able to follow the tidal road which takes me to Aveton Gifford where the Fishermen's Rest pub can be found. Phew!!

My lift awaits in the car park next to the end of the tidal road.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

bluebells
red and white campion
cow parsley
primroses
hogweed
herb robert
herb bennet
robins
wrens
chiffchaffs
pheasants
bugle
hawthorn
little egrets
skylarks
lords and ladies
stonechats
goldfinches
oystercatchers
swallows
early purple orchids
sea thrift
gorse
bladder campion
flag irises
red and white valerian

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.9 miles today which amounts to 30185 steps. The weather was a massive improvement on yesterday and made for perfect walking weather and apart from the near miss with the bulls has been a lovely day of walking. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 210 metres or 689 feet.

MAP

plymouth to the river erme

May 14, 2017 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 6TH MAY 2017

April has been a windy and cold, cold month with some biting winds at times but the weather has finally turned and I'm expecting warm weather for the entire week. It's time for a new season of walking the south west coast path.

Today's weather forecast doesn't look too good with rain set for the entire day but the rest of the week after that should be dry and sunny.

Plymouth high tide 15:49

Plymouth low tide 09:42

Today's walk starts at the Mountbatten Centre on the edge of the Plym estuary on the Mount Batten peninsula overlooking Plymouth. From here I pass the Hotel Mount Batten and the berth for the Mount Batten Ferry. It's a murky start to the day and rain is threatening.

I walk around the breakwater taking in memorials for RAF Mount Batten and Laurence of Arabia, who was stationed here but the memorials are rather worn now and very difficult to read. RAF Mount Batten was a Royal Air Force station and flying boat base but little of it remains today. I was last here in May 2014 when storm damage due to winter storms had wrecked some of the beaches around here but order has been resumed and everything is back to normal. Everything around here is starting to look a bit shabby though.

Steps lead up to the Mount Batten Tower, a 30 foot high gun tower which was used to guard the southern approach to Plymouth harbour. The tower is believed to have been built between 1646 and 1652 and was named after William Batten who commanded the Parliamentary navy in Plymouth during the Civil War.

I take in the views around Plymouth Sound before heading off of Mount Batten peninsula and on to Jennycliff, where there is a small pebble beach with rock pools. The beach was closed three years ago due to storm damage but is now back open.

A stone board shows what Plymouth Sound was like 20,000 years ago towards the end of the last Ice Age when the sea level was 130 metres lower than it is today and Plymouth Sound was dry. As the ice melted 10,000 years ago the sea flooded back into Plymouth Sound much as it looks today. At least the board should show me but it's even more worn than the previous two and I can barely make out any words.

I pass a marker saying :-

“Welcome to Plymouth. Please wipe your feet.”

I should come across another one of these when I walk across Plymouth on Monday.

I come across a marker which says that it's 175.5 miles to Poole. It's not! It's more like 230 miles by my calculations.

I climb down some steps and then up some steps and amble along the coast path. The wildflowers are looking lovely but my camera doesn't cope very well with the murky and damp conditions.

I come across a field full of sheep and there are swallows swooping across the field and skylarks singing. There are also runners everywhere. I have rather gloomy views back over Plymouth.

I reach the Staddon Heights Defences built in the 1860s to protect the surrounding area from enemy invasion. I head on high over a small harbour at Staddon Point and then descend to pass Staddon Point Battery and Fort Bovisand.

I pass Cliffedge Cafe and almost enter the Bovisand Lodge Estate but a footpath heads off to the right and I come across the dreaded japanese knotweed.

I drop onto the beach at Bovisand Bay and then pass through Bovisand Holiday Park and past Cafe Bovisands. I come across a clump of red hot pokers which cheer up the day a little.

I continue to amble along the coast path and watch the slow progress of a ship being escorted out of Plymouth harbour. I pass Andurn Point, Westlake Bay and Heybrook Bay where out to sea I can see Shag Stone (snigger!) and Crab Rock, enjoying the wildflowers along the way, before eventually reaching the Great Mew Stone, a wedged shape island just offshore owned by the National Trust. It gets its name from the old English name for the herring gull

I continue around Wembury Point, where I come across a small flock of canada geese, to reach Wembury Beach, a sandy beach at low tide. Here can be found Old Mill Cafe and Wembury Marine Centre.

I leave the beach and come across a sign saying it's 206 miles to poole. It's still not right but at least it's closer than the previous sign.

I climb up towards Saint Werburgh's Church and then amble along the cliffs, admiring the views over the Yealm estuary before climbing down to the ferry pier on the banks of the River Yealm.

I drop the sign for the ferry to alert the ferryman of my presence and the ferry arrives shortly. I climb aboard and then enjoy crossing the river to reach the shore at Noss Mayo. The crossing costs £3.50 but I tip extra and the ferryman promises to have a couple of beers on me that evening! It's a long old trek trying to get around the River Yealm!

I climb Noss Slip and pass Ferryman's Cottage where I come across an old sign showing the ferry tolls of yonder. Actually it can't be that old as I don't recall seeing it before and it's in remarkably good condition. 1 old pence to cross the Yealm? I was robbed!

I have some lovely, if murky, views back along the River Yealm.

I enter Passage Wood and the path winds its way out of the woods before entering Brakehill Plantation. Bluebells are everywhere and skylarks are singing their hearts out!

I come across a herd of cows with their young calves and swallows swooping around them. Stonechats are clacking away merrily in the gorse.

A pleasant walk crosses grassy and rugged slopes and I pass cove after cove starting with Silver Cove and continuing past Greylake Cove, Swaney Cove, Quarry Cove, Eden's Cove, Long Cove, Searush Cove, Saddle Cove, Bridge Cove, Dunny Cove, Withie Cove, Pilot Cove, Bloody Cove, Little Bloody Cove, Swale Cove and Rugger Cove. That's a lot of coves!

A gladed path leads past Stoke Point and there are wildflowers everywhere. There are usually lots of butterflies flitting around here but it's too gloomy today.

I reach a place which seems to be called Revelstoke but I can't see it on my map. I head downhill slightly through the caravan park here to photograph some irises.

I retrace my steps to rejoin the coast path and enter Carswell Farm before passing more coves, Church Cove, Row Cove, Sandy Cove, Pinkey's Cove and Long Cove. I reach Beacon Hill where there is a ruined lookout and I have a distinctly murky view.

I begin to see tomorrow's walk laid out before me and the coast path then drops steeply into a grassy hollow before climbing steeply out again.

I pass yet more coves, Ivy Cove, Carswell Cove, and another Carswell Cove (not very imaginative naming!) on the way to St Anchorite's Rock, an impressive looking large rocky tor and I pass lovely clumps of sea thrift looking their best. They've only just started to come into flower at home.

The path eventually drops down to Meadowfoot Beach at the head of the River Erme which I briefly have all to myself before I'm joined by a couple of dog walkers. They promptly manage to lose their dog.

I cross the sandy beach and can hear the dog walkers calling for their dog as I climb some steps away from the beach and then walk through woods to reach the Mothecombe Slipway at Erme Mouth. Here my day ends as the only way to cross the River Erme is to ford it one hour either side of low tide. Since I can't swim, there's no way I'm going to chance it. It's also close to high tide so even fording is out of the question.

Instead I head inland up the minor road to the car park nearby where my lift is waiting to take us back to our home for the week, Heron's Rest. Since I've built up a bit of a thirst some bottles of Doom Bar await in the fridge back at the cottage.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

red campion
red valerian
bluebells
robins
chaffinches
herb robert
garlic mustard
pheasants
wrens
herb bennet
chiffchaffs
sheep
swallows
skylarks
gorse
whitethroat (might have been the lesser)
ox eye daisies
japanese knotweed
red hot pokers
sea thrift
gunnera
wild carrot
foxgloves
canada geese
oystercatchers
little egrets
curlew
song thrushes
wild garlic
cow parsley
green alkanet
stonechats
cows
irises
bugle

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.1 miles today which amounts to 41440 steps. The weather has been murky and mizzly but I've rather enjoyed myself today at the start of the season's coast path walking even though the beginning of the walk felt a bit shabby. Seven out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app failed me today.