lynmouth to combe martin

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

SunDAY, 24th SEPTEMBER 2017

Today's weather forecast doesn't look particularly good with rain forecast for all day but at least there should barely be any wind. Don't recall saying that much this year.

Ilfracombe high tide 09:12

Ilfracombe low tide tide 14:59

weather forecast.jpg
tide times.jpg

I start the morning back at the car park above Lynmouth next to the River Lyn.

lynmouth

I walk down towards the harbour and head through a gap between the Exmoor National Park Visitor Centre and the Lynton and Lynmouth Cliff Railway.

lynton and lynmouth cliff railway

I head up some steps and then zig zag along a tarmac path, crossing over the Cliff Railway as I go. I spot a robin with an enormous worm in its beak.

crossing the railway

I pass pieces of poetry as I zig zag along the path. The Poetry Box Project resided in Valley of Rocks over the three summer months of 2014 when over 2000 poems were amassed. The poems I'm passing must be as a result of this project.

At the top I have magnificent views over Lynmouth. The weather isn't actually too bad.

view over lynmouth

I follow a minor road running between the Fairholme Hotel and North Cliff Hotel where I cross over the Cliff Railway again. I pass Hewitt's Villa Spaldi and The Seawood Hotel.

For centuries this road had been used to transport goods from Lynmouth harbour up to Lynton. Before 1810 there were no wheeled vehicles and packhorses struggled up the cliff loaded down with lime from Lynmouth's kiln. They also carried coal and roof slates from Wales and foodstuffs from Bristol.

Work started on the cliff railway in 1887. Bridges had to be built at places where the excavations cut through the path. The railway was opened in 1890.

I amble along North Walk and before I've even walked through the gate to exit Lynton I come across feral goats greeting me just past the gate.

The gate leads out onto steep, rocky slopes along a path and the cliffs are covered in feral goats munching on the bracken.

feral goats

The paths are covered in goat pooh. I follow a fork in the path to the right and suddenly have lovely views over Castle Rock. It really is rather a pleasant morning.

castle rock

The path heads towards a road at the Valley of Rocks.

entering the valley of rocks

I head along the road which leads through the Lee Abbey Estate. Lee Abbey is to my right and is home to a Christian community that hosts retreats, holidays and conferences.

entering lee abbey estate

I pass Beacon Activity Centre which was opened in 2004 to host exciting breaks for groups of all ages.

beacon activity centre

I pass a cow who doesn't look particularly pleased to see me.

cow

I pass the entrance to Lee Abbey.

entrance to lee abbey

For some reason I've always managed to go wrong here in the past. I can sort of see why as the coast path signs are obscured further down the road than the main set of signs which I've previously followed incorrectly.

I'm not going to go wrong today so continue along the coast road and pass Lee Abbey Tea Cottage. There's a rather lovely garden outside of the cottage.

lee abbey tea cottage

I follow the road until a path leads through the woods and around Crock Point before entering woods again and I then climb down some steps

woods

A steep climb through woods takes me back up to the road and I head for Woody Bay where I turn right into woods before reaching Woody Bay Hotel. I have occasional glimpses of the sea and cliffs.

glimpse of the sea

I follow a muddy and wet woodland track through Woody Bay and come to a minor road at a cottage.

A sign helpfully shows me the way to Iceland, Russia, America and New Zealand.

the road to iceland

I follow the road up to a bend before climbing a rocky woodland path. I have magnificent if increasing murky views back along the coast.

view back along the coast

The path climbs downhill and I cross Hollow Brook next to a waterfall before heading out over open slopes above the towering cliffs.

waterfall at hollow brook

A rocky path takes me across a steep slope of heather and I have magnificent, but even murkier, views.

magnificent views

I reach Heddon's Mouth where the path slices down a steep stony slope and enters woods. I head inland next to a river and cross a stone footbridge before heading down the other side of the river.

entering heddon's mouth

I turn a sharp left and head upstream and inland. I head up a wooded slope and through a gate and start zig zagging up a steep slope covered in bracken before heading back to the coast high above Heddon's Mouth. It is quite a trek down and back up.

I climb up a steep rocky slope covered in heather and have more magnificent views over the cliffs.

view over cliffs

I come across a sign saying 'Please donate to preserve the endangered Exmoor pony and help preserve these paths and lands. Thank you.' I pop a coin in the slot. Thank you Exmoor ponies.

The fields here are covered in sheep. I follow an easy, grassy path at East Cleave and continue along the path at North Cleave.

I cross a field before climbing up onto a rugged moorland slope covered in gorse and heather. It starts to rain lightly which cools me down. I follow a track across Holdstone Down where I pass the same man as I passed on yesterday's walk. I can now see out over Great Hangman. It is rather murky and misty. 

view over great hangman

I start to climb uphill and inland and then steeply descend into a valley where I cross a footbridge over a stream at Sherrycombe.

stream at sherrycombe

I climb steeply up the other side of the vally rounding some woodland before climbing up a slope covered in gorse. It's a very steep climb and I get sweaty and puffed out. There are sheep all over the slopes beneath me. Quite how they get herded up I do not know.

I follow an easier track surrounded by heather up on to the top of Great Hangman where I come across a cairn. I'm now at 1043 feet and on the highest point on the entire South West Coast Path and take in all of the (misty and murky) views.

cairn on great hangman

misty view over little hangman

I follow a path downhill towards the much smaller Little Hangman before climbing up and down and up and down along the cliffs. I now have views over Combe Martin.

view over combe martin

The path now goes through trees before swinging left downhill and at the bottom i turn right to reach my destination for the day, Combe Martin. I drop down to enjoy the beach before heading for the car park where my lift awaits. It has been a wild and rugged rollercoaster of a day and thoroughly enjoyable.

combe martin beach

Combe Martin is often quoted as being the longest village in the UK but, even though at a mile and a half long it's pretty long, it's not. That accolade falls to Stewkley in Buckinghamshire.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • robin with big worm
  • herb robert
  • squirrels
  • oaks
  • beech
  • holly
  • buddleia
  • sweet chestnuts
  • feral goats
  • red campion
  • foxgloves
  • ragwort
  • cows
  • sheep
  • geraniums
  • red valerian
  • hydrangeas
  • crocosmia
  • pheasants
  • red admirals
  • small tortoiseshells
  • a hare
podcast logo small.png

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

10 out of 10.png

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.5 miles today which amounts to 35257 steps. It has been a lovely day of walking. Ten out of ten!

My total ascent today has been, err, I don't know as my Ordnance Survey app has failed again. It has been a rough and tumble ride today though, including climbing the highest point on the south west coast path, so that'll make a big total ascent.

I've only recently realized that one of the apps on my phone I use for tracking me also records elevation information so here's a graph of today's walk. That's quite a hike!

elevation.jpg

MAP

lynmouth

woods

the road to iceland

combe martin beach

beach collection

porlock weir to lynmouth

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 23rd september 2017

Today's weather forecast looks like it might actually be quite nice today. Very light winds which is unheard of at the moment with our constant gales and even possibly a bit of sun and some warmth. Can't complain.

Porlock Bay high tide 09:07

Porlock Bay low tide 14:53

weather  forecast.jpg
tide times.jpg

I start the day next to the pebbly beach in Porlock Weir. I pass by the tiny harbour and pick up the coast path as it leaves Porlock Weir between the Bottom Ship Inn and the Millers at the Anchor hotel.

porlock weir

The path climbs gently uphill before I turn right along the Worthy Combe Toll Road. I reach a two arched toll gate. The toll road goes through the left arch but I continue along the coast path through the right arch.

worthy combe toll road

Worthy Combe Toll Road
No responsibility attaches to the owner of this road for any carnage or injury suffered by any person using this road from any cause whatsoever whether due to the said owners negligence, non-feasance or misfeasance or to the state of the road or of anything near the said road or overhanging the same or otherwise, and all persons using the said road in any manner do so entirely at their own risk.

Needless to say, at this early hour, there's no one about to collect a toll but a couple of dogs do come and bark at me. They are friendly enough though.

I continue climbing through woods full of sweet chestnuts and pass under two arches before continuing along a footpath which crosses a stream and then leads me to teeny Culbone Church.

culbone church

A community of monks was established here in the fifth century, and the first church was built on the site two centuries later, possibly with an Anchorite cell attached. It is thought that parts of the current church, St Beuno's, date back to Saxon times, although over the centuries it has been rebuilt and refenestrated numerous times.

An information sheet obtained from within the porch tells me that the church is the smallest complete parish church in the country and that it is mentioned in the Domesday Book and the Guiness Book of Records. St Beuno is apparently pronounced "Bayno"!

I explore the churchyard here before heading back to the coast path where I come across a friendly robin who sings for me. I start climbing again. A sign warns me that the path ahead is prone to subsidence. I head through Culbone Wood which leads me to Sugarloaf Hill. The woods are thick so I don't see much in the way of features but it's a thoroughly pleasant walk along muddy woodland tracks passing streams and landslips.

I pass a sign for Glenthorne Beach, a beach covered in rock sized pebbles, but I've no idea how far down I'd have to trek to get to the beach.

glenthorne beach

I cross over a stream and round the slopes of Sugarloaf Hill. I cross another stream and pass a pinetum containing Wellingtonias. 

I cross another stream at Coscombe and I've now crossed over from Somerset to Devon.

I pass Sisters Fountain marked by a stone cross. An elaborate structure was built over the spring in the 19th century and named Sisters Fountain because the owner's nieces liked to play in the vicinity. Joseph of Arimathea is alleged to have struck his staff on the ground here, causing the spring to start flowing. Sounds like a load of old nonsense to me!

sisters fountain

I climb uphill to reach a track that passes through stone pillars topped by wild boar heads.

wild boar heads

wild boar heads

wild boar heads

It has been a lonely trek so far but a runner passes me and greets me 'good morning'.

I pass a house with odd birdtables and birdbaths outside and, at the entrance to Glenthorne House, I leave the track and head along a muddy narrow path.

I get some glimpses of sea before crossing a couple of streams and cross over woody and scrubby slopes at Glenthorne Cliffs.

glimpse of the sea

I cross another stream at Swannel Combe and then reach Chubhill Combe where I come across Rodney Cottage Walkers' Honesty Cafe (@ExmoorNature). I find a flask of hot water, cups, stirrers, sugar, cool drinks, chairs and a table. How sweet! All proceeds go towards feeding the woodland birds.

I climb over a stile and have magnificent views back along the North Devon and Somerset coast.

north devon and somerset coast

A track leads me through ground strewn with stones and covered in bracken, hawthorn and gorse. This leads me to a bend on a narrow road.

bend on a narrow road

I walk down the road and cross a bridge over a stream. The coast path signs have dried up (or I've missed them) so I continue along the road hoping I'm going in the right direction. The cliffs around here are MASSIVE!

massive cliff

I pass Foreland Bothy and reach the National Trust cottages at Foreland Point and the path ends. I have definitely come the wrong way.

foreland bothy

foreland point lighthouse cottage

I spot a sign warning me that the path ahead is narrow and exposed and prone to falling scree. Maybe this is the coast path?

warning sign

I start to climb up it but I don't recognize it. The path starts to climb very steeply up and over Foreland Point. I pass high above the lighthouse. It's quite a climb up a narrow path and it becomes increasing scary as it's a long way down the scree covered cliffs.

foreland point lighthouse

I continue up the path and make it up to the top without falling into the sea. I'm now a long way up and have magnificent views over to Lynmouth and Lynton.

view over lynmouth

I now come across coast path signs again and I indeed have gone the wrong way.

coast path signs

I cross grassy slopes towards Countisbury where I walk through the grounds of St John the Evangelist to reach the Blue Ball Inn.

st john the evangelist

blue ball inn

I retrace my steps through the churchyard and the coast path runs below the main road. It's quite a descent along muddy and slippery paths down from the towering cliffs into Lynmouth. I briefly walk along the road before I drop down to the right and climb down steps on a wooded slope. I zig zag down through a beech wood which leads me out on to the path above Lynmouth Beach.

lynmouth beach

I follow the road through a park and cross a footbridge over the River Lyn. I pass the tiny harbour to reach my destination for the day, Lynmouth.

lynmouth

Lynmouth was wrecked by a devastating flood in August 1952 which killed 34 people and destroyed more than a hundred buildings. 

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • japanese anemones
  • robins
  • pheasants
  • buddleia
  • herb robert
  • red campion
  • periwinkle
  • oaks
  • sweet chestnuts
  • holly
  • foxgloves
  • beech
  • rhododendrons
  • gorse
  • heather
  • red admirals
  • speckle wood butterflies
  • grasshoppers
podcast logo small.png

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

9 out of 10.png

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.6 miles today which amounts to 29906 steps. That's not a very long way today but the weather has been decent and the walking spectacular. Nine out of ten!

Hooray!! My Ordnance Survey app has finally recorded a route. My total ascent today has been 1103 feet or 336 metres.

MAP

porlock weir

culbone church

wild boar head

view over lynmouth

st john the evangelist

(not much of a) beach collection

isle of portland

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

WEDNESDAY, 7TH june 2017

Today's weather forecast looks like it might be a bit on the blustery side and rather colder than I'd like. Having said that, the alternative BBC weather forecast has me down for a rather nice day with light breezes. I know which I'd prefer!

Chesil Cove low tide 11:41

Chesil Cove high tide 18:39

The walk begins at the Chesil Beach Visitors Centre located at the Ferrybridge car park. The road onto the Isle of Portland is extremely busy so I quickly cross the road and drop down onto the trackbed beside the road which used to be a railway line. I'm immediately greeted by skylark song. Quite why skylarks would choose to live here I don't know but it's a very welcome sound over the noise of the traffic.

It's blowing a gale and even Chesil Beach is failing to block the westerly winds.

view over portland

Despite the rocky nature of the railway track the wildflowers are rather enjoying themselves.

I pass an Environment Agency sign telling me that 'The outfall that empties into Portland Harbour behind this stone wall is a critical part of local sea defences operated and maintained by the Environment Agency.'.

chesil beach sea defences

I reach what used to be Mere Tank Farm, an old oil storage depot, but this has now been demolished as part of the Olympic developments around here. What an eyesore it used to be but I rather liked the depot welcoming me on to Portland and I can't see anything of merit that has replaced it. 

It's now called Osprey Quay and seems to be a place where you park up your rather large yacht.

I pass Portland Port and then the Weymouth and Portland National Sailing Academy. I pass a sign warning me that I'm next to 'PRIVATE LAND. No public access or right of way.' Why on earth would I want to trespass on that dump?! Needless to say I come across more of these signs.

private land

Despite (or because of) being near to deserted the flowers are putting on a good show. 

I head past what used to be HMS Osprey before all of the redevelopments, where I come across a Westland Lynx HAS 3 XZ 250 helicopter, which has apparently played a major role in the fight against drugs and piracy and entered service with the Royal Navy in 1978 and was operational for 32 years and 8 days accumulating 7667 hours and 10 minutes flying. That's very precise!

westland lynx helicopter

I pass The Boat That Rocks and then pass a big lump of timber telling me 'Remember, always keep a good lookout!'. Apparently this lump of timber was recovered 15 miles south east of Portland Bill in April 2010. It was then towed to Portland Marina in the interest of safety for other seafarers. Good to know.

I pass a flood risk area (there are many around here) and then pass a sign telling be about the 2012 Olympics and Paralympics Games sailing events where I have nice views back along the deserted marina.

deserted marina

It is properly blowing a gale and a windsock at the old heliport confirms this.

blowing a gale

I'm now confused by all of the new developments and somehow manage to head off the wrong way around the island heading down the east side rather than the west side. I pass Portland Castle which English Heritage claim is one of Henry VIII's finest coastal forts, built in the early 1540s to protect against French and Spanish invasion. It looks a bit pathetic!

portland castle

I head into Castletown, passing the Osprey Leisure Centre and pass a coast path stone telling me that Portland Bill is five and a half miles away. A grubby path strimmed to within an inch of its life and covered in crisp packets climbs up onto East Cliff. It appears that this was once Merchant's Railway, a horse drawn and cable operated incline railway, built for the stone trade on the island. It was operational from 1826 to 1939.

I pass some massive echiums growing in an allotment before reaching Verne Citadel, used as a category C men's prison but closed in 2013 before becoming an immigration removal centre in 2014. There aren't any clues as to whether it is still being used or not. Signs seem to indicate that it is still a prison.

verne citadel

I pass a dead seagull with its head ripped off and then come across Fancys Family Farm where I come across goats, sheep, WALLABIES and horses. I pass quarries where the vehicles down below are making an awful racket shunting stone.

quarry

I'm clearly now in quarry country and I'm on the East Weares and Groves Cliffs, where I come across a great big memorial bench made out of the local limestone. Despite all of the rocks the wildflowers are putting on a good show.

I pass Portland Young Offenders Institution where I'm warned not to throw anything into the prison or I could face an unlimited fine and up to 10 years in prison. UNLIMITED?! Really. Needless to say I don't throw anything over the fence just in case!

STOP!

I now have lovely views out over the breakwater, over to where I should have been walking yesterday and also over to the towering cliff faces above me.

towering cliff faces

I'm now heading towards Church Ope Cove. Signs seem to indicate that the path has been recently closed due to rock falls but they are now open again. I amble along the coast path admiring the wildflowers.

I come across a small group of pyramidal orchids, just coming into flower, and then a common blue butterfly.

The path around here is popular with dog walkers and rock climbers.

rock climber

I reach a viewpoint and then climb down steps to Church Ope Cove where I walk through the beach huts and clamber out onto the pebbly beach. It is deserted except for one person who has opened up his beach hut and is braving the gales. Actually it's a bit more sheltered here but the shelter won't last for long.

I regain the coast path and walk behind the beach huts before climbing up through abandoned quarries where I come across a few more pyramidal orchids.

abandoned quarry

I head along a grassy verge beside the road to reach a viewpoint at Cheyne Weare. A sign here claims that I can see the chalk coastline along Weymouth Bay, the Purbecks, St Albans Head near Swanage and Lulworth Cove. For a change it's absolutely true!

view from cheyne weare

view from cheyne weare

I pass Coombefield Quarry which is apparently still active although I see no signs of life and it's coming to the end of its life anyway.

I recall following the road here but a coast path sign points through abandoned quarries where I enjoy more of the wildflowers.

I amble along paths through the quarries where I come across some hand cranes. It's rather enjoyable if a little on the windy side.

I pass Cave Hole, a large cave with a blow hole, but I'm now walking in an easterly direction and the westerly wind is blasting in my face so it's not a time to stop.

I head along the grassy paths towards the red and white lighthouse at Portland Bill where the Lighthouse Visitor Centre can be found.

red and white lighthouse

I continue around Portland Bill, passing the beach huts where I continue to be blasted by the wind. Most people are dressed as if for winter but I'm foolishly wandering along in shorts and t-shirt!

beach huts

I pass the Lobster Pot Restaurant and a coast path stone informs me that I'm 581 miles from Minehead and 49 miles from Poole. For once the miles seem to be roughly accurate. I was born in Poole 50 years ago to this day.

happy birthday to me
happy birthday to me
happy birthday dear me
happy birthday to me

Pulpit Rock stands offshore and a couple of nutters have climbed onto the rock despite the gales.

pulpit rock

It's now time to leave Portland Bill and I head up the grassy slopes passing the National Coastwatch Station and a disused lighthouse.

portland bill

I'm now exposed to the worst of the icy blasts so there's not much more I can do other than grab hold of my hat to stop it blowing away across Portland and continue along the grassy slopes.

I now have lovely views across Chiswell and Chesil Beach but I can barely hold the camera straight in the wind.

chiswell and chesil beach

The path ahead is closed due to cliff falls so I'm diverted inland through quarries where I get a bit of respite from the winds. This part of the path seems to have been closed since 16th April 2017.

path closed

I leave the quarry and come across a memorial to the late Keith Brown (Browner), a huge Liverpool Football Club supporter.

browner

I come across another path closure, this time dating from 13th April 2016, and I'm diverted into Tout Quarry. The quarry is now disused and contains a sculture park which is well worth visiting and is also a nature reserve. I spend a bit of time photographing some of the sculptures. As I leave the quarry I come across a hummingbird hawk-moth but it's flitting about too much to be photographed.

I leave the quarry and head along the coast path again and I have magnificent views overlooking the mighty arc of Chesil Beach.

overlooking chesil beach

I wander down the path a bit to visit the 'Spirit of Portland' sculpture, showing a fisherman and a quarryman.

spirit of portland

I climb steeply down at West Weare and have one last fantastic view in front of me over Chesil Beach before I pass by the now derelict and rather sad looking Underhill Community Junior School.

chesil beach

I pass  the Cove House Inn and head inland where I pass the Bluefish Cafe and what appears to be the now closed Little Ship pub and the long derelict Royal Victoria Lodge. This pub was closed the last time I walked here in 2013.

That's the end of my walking around the Isle of Portland and it's now a noisy end to the walk along the busy A354 back to the car park at Ferrybridge where my lift awaits. The wind continues to blast across me and Chesil Beach gives me little in the way of protection. As I approach the car park a skylark bursts into song again, ignoring the icy winds. What cheerful fellows they are! Maybe it's the same skylark who greeted me this morning.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • skylarks
  • white valerian
  • pied wagtails
  • red valerian
  • small tortoiseshells
  • swallows
  • echiums
  • speckled wood butterflies
  • poppies
  • ribwort plantain
  • agapanthus
  • mesembryanthemums
  • wall brown butterflies
  • red admirals
  • viper's-bugloss
  • herb robert
  • honeysuckle
  • pyramidal orchids
  • alexanders
  • fennel
  • hummingbird hawk-moth

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

Conditions were terrible for recording today due to the high winds so I've done the best I can with the podcast.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 13.3 miles today which amounts to 29802 steps. It has been a cold day tackling biting westerly winds in just a t-shirt and shorts but the walking has been lovely. The BBC weather forecast was utter rubbish. Nine out of ten!

My total ascent today has been 167 metres or 547 feet. The elevation graph still doesn't look correct but is much better than the previous two days.

elevation.jpg

MAP

westland lynx helicop

blowing a gale

towering cliffs

lighthouse

chesil beach

beach collection

worth matravers to south haven point

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 6TH june 2017

Today's weather forecast doesn't look very good and I could be in for a very blustery day. For some reason the wind speeds on my weather forecast app are completely different on my iPhone and iPad. It has not been a good week for reliable technology.

Poole high tide 06:17

Poole low tide 15:03

I start the day back at the Square and Compass pub in Worth Matravers and it is indeed a blustery start to the day.

It is clear as soon as I reach the coast that things are awry and the weather is a lot worse than either of my forecasts suggests and I get blown off of my feet several times in the blasting wind on the path to St Aldhelm's Head. This is far too dangerous to walk in.

I make it, somehow, to St Aldhelm's Chapel and, fortunately, the door is open so I shelter inside for 15 minutes hoping that the winds will die down. They don't so the tough decision is made to abandon the walk. This is the first time I've ever abandoned a walk.

I head along a track inland that takes me back to Worth Matravers.

inside st aldhelm's chapel

lulworth cove to worth matravers

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

sunday, 4TH june 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good although those temperatures don't look particularly high.

Mupe Bay low tide 08:15

Mupe Bay high tide 16:21

The last time I walked over the Lulworth Ranges was 5 years ago and it was a filthy day. The rain was literally washing the coast path away as I was walking along it and a huge stretch of the coast path was closed shortly afterwards and for a long period of time. Time has passed though and the coast path is back open now.

I start the day back at the car park above Lulworth Cove and wander down through Lulworth village passing the Lulworth Heritage Centre. I head out to Stair Hole and enjoy the views across the magnificent Lulworth Cove before descending across the old village green. 

stair hole

lulworth cove

I head down to enjoy the beach and I'm not the only person doing the same thing. It is a beautiful early summer's morning.

lulworth cove beach

The coast path seems to have been re-routed since the last time I was here and I follow signs through West Lulworth village and more signs point inland before I climb up Bindon Hill and head off across grassy slopes. I'm now high above Lulworth Cove and I climb gingerly down some steep stone steps. The heavy back pack isn't helping. I come across a lone pyramidal orchid about half way down.

high above lulworth cove

pyramidal orchid

I reach a beach at the bottom and realize that instead of taking the rather long detour inland I could have just walked across the beach at Lulworth Cove to get here.

 I climb out of Lulworth Cove and have magnificent views back to Lulworth Cove from the top of Pepler's Point (not marked on my map).

view over lulworth cove

I reach Fossil Forest Gate and detour down to the right to explore the Fossil Forest, consisting of strange rounded shapes known as 'algal burrs' but a cliff fall has meant that access is currently closed. I can still make out some of the fossilized trees down below me.

closed!

fossilized trees

It's now time to enter the Lulworth Ranges at Fossil Forest Gate. I'm always worried that I've got my dates wrong and find that the gate is closed but, happily, it's open.

I can make out some more of the fossilized trees down below me from a bit further along the coast path.

more fossilized trees

I walk along a grassy path enjoying the lovely wildflowers before passing a radar station.

I have lovely views over Mupe Bay where I come across a large patch of common spotted orchids

mupe bay

I round Mupe Bay and climb a lot of steps up the massize cliff here. I come across another lone pyramidal orchid and then a lone bee orchid.

I continue along the clifftops where I come across burnet butterflies feeding on viper's-bugloss and the slopes below me are covered in orchids, quite happily growing amongst the military shrapnel.

Signs warn me not to touch any military debris as it may explode and kill me but cows below me don't seem to be triggering any explosions. I can see burnt out tanks and other vehicles down below.

It is then a steep descent down to the beach at Arish Mell which I can easily get to but signs warn me that it is off limits. What a shame.

arish mell

I climb steeply out of the cove and come across plenty more orchids.

I now have magnificent views back from where I've come from before I amble inland away from the cliffs.

It has turned into a beautiful morning and is starting to get pretty hot. Much hotter than the weather forecast said it would. The weather was so bad last time I was here that I managed to follow the wrong path and ended up in Tyneham village. The army commandeered the village and the surrounding area in 1943 and forgot to give it back at the end of the war.

Fortunately, weather conditions are much better today and I manage to find the correct path easily and head through the ramparts of the Iron Age fort, Flower's Barrow, gradually falling into the sea.

I leave the hillfort through a gap in the ramparts and wander steeply downhill to Worbarrow Bay where I come across a patch of flag iris and some big clumps of sea thrift.

I drop down to the shingle beach and wander along it for a bit. It's rather lovely here and quite a few other people agree even though the beach is in the middle of nowhere.

I walk back up the beach and cross a footbridge before climbing back up the cliffs.

I now have fine views over Worbarrow Tout before walking along the clifftops at Gad Cliff where I pass Wagon Rock. The wildflowers are looking lovely on the cliffs and I have lovely views over the countryside down to Tyneham.

I pass Brandy Bay and Hobarrow Bay and head down through fields full of cows. My walk through the ranges is over so I leave through the exit gate at the start of Kimmeridge Bay. 

I immediately come across Kimmeridge Wellsite where I pass the nodding donkey oil pump which has been pumping oil since 1959. 

nodding donkey

I head around Kimmeridge Bay where a field trip is taking place, passing the Purbeck Marine Wildlife Reserve and Fine Foundation Marine Centre.

kimmeridge bay

purbeck marine wildlife reserve

I climb steep steps up to Clavell Tower, a grade II listed Tuscan style tower built in 1830 and owned by the Landmark Trust. It was painstakingly moved, piece by piece, inland 25 metres away from the crumbling clifftop starting in 2006.

clavell tower

It is now an uneventful walk across the cliffs along fiddly, overgrown and windy paths. I walk up and downhill, crossing footbridges and navigate a tricky stretch of the path at Houns-tout cliff where I encounter a waterfall which doesn't seem to have any water. The cliffs are covered in wildflowers but there's also rather a lot of nettles.

I come across a small patch of bee orchids just coming into flower.

I climb some steep steps up a wooded cliff to reach a stone seat overlooking the sea. I have magnificent, if rather grey now, views.

I'm now high above the rather beautiful Chapman's Pool. Five years ago it was howling a gale and hammering down with rain when I got here and I had to help a couple of fellow walkers down the steps as they couldn't stand up in the wind. It's a much more peaceful day today!

chapman's pool

It looks rather difficult to get down to the beach at Chapman's Pool, especially with a heavy back pack, but there are a few hardy souls down on the beach.

I descend down the steep flight of stone steps down to the fields behind Chapman's Pool. The coast path heads inland across fields to come across a minor road with a small car park nearby at Renscombe Farm.

This must be the road that takes me into Worth Matravers so I follow this road to reach my destination for the day the rather busy Square and Compass pub.

square and compass

I head up the road slightly to the rather large car park for a rather small village. It is packed though! What a lovely day's walking.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • a yellowhammer
  • small copper butterflies
  • wall brown butterflies
  • red valerian
  • common bird's-foot trefoil
  • pyramidal orchids
  • common spotted orchids
  • bee orchids
  • six-spot burnets
  • viper's-bugloss
  • skipper (presumably dingy) butterflies

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.8 miles today which amounts to 35552 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking today. Ten out of ten!

Hmmm. My Ordnance Survey app is definitely playing up. There's no way that this graph is representative of the up and down route today. The total ascent today has been an alleged 200 metres or 656 feet.

MAP

lulworth cove

pyramidal orchid

orchids

bee orchid

clavell tower

beach collection