SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

sunday, 4TH june 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be pretty good although those temperatures don't look particularly high.

Mupe Bay low tide 08:15

Mupe Bay high tide 16:21

The last time I walked over the Lulworth Ranges was 5 years ago and it was a filthy day. The rain was literally washing the coast path away as I was walking along it and a huge stretch of the coast path was closed shortly afterwards and for a long period of time. Time has passed though and the coast path is back open now.

I start the day back at the car park above Lulworth Cove and wander down through Lulworth village passing the Lulworth Heritage Centre. I head out to Stair Hole and enjoy the views across the magnificent Lulworth Cove before descending across the old village green.

I head down to enjoy the beach and I'm not the only person doing the same thing. It is a beautiful early summer's morning.

The coast path seems to have been re-routed since the last time I was here and I follow signs through West Lulworth village and more signs point inland before I climb up Bindon Hill and head off across grassy slopes. I'm now high above Lulworth Cove and I climb gingerly down some steep stone steps. The heavy back pack isn't helping. I come across a lone pyramidal orchid about half way down.

I reach a beach at the bottom and realize that instead of taking the rather long detour inland I could have just walked across the beach at Lulworth Cove to get here.

I climb out of Lulworth Cove and have magnificent views back to Lulworth Cove from the top of Pepler's Point (not marked on my map).

I reach Fossil Forest Gate and detour down to the right to explore the Fossil Forest, consisting of strange rounded shapes known as 'algal burrs' but a cliff fall has meant that access is currently closed. I can still make out some of the fossilized trees down below me.

It's now time to enter the Lulworth Ranges at Fossil Forest Gate. I'm always worried that I've got my dates wrong and find that the gate is closed but, happily, it's open.

I can make out some more of the fossilized trees down below me from a bit further along the coast path.

I walk along a grassy path enjoying the lovely wildflowers before passing a radar station.

I have lovely views over Mupe Bay where I come across a large patch of common spotted orchids

I round Mupe Bay and climb a lot of steps up the massize cliff here. I come across another lone pyramidal orchid and then a lone bee orchid.

I continue along the clifftops where I come across burnet butterflies feeding on viper's-bugloss and the slopes below me are covered in orchids, quite happily growing amongst the military shrapnel.

Signs warn me not to touch any military debris as it may explode and kill me but cows below me don't seem to be triggering any explosions. I can see burnt out tanks and other vehicles down below.

It is then a steep descent down to the beach at Arish Mell which I can easily get to but signs warn me that it is off limits. What a shame.

I climb steeply out of the cove and come across plenty more orchids.

I now have magnificent views back from where I've come from before I amble inland away from the cliffs.

It has turned into a beautiful morning and is starting to get pretty hot. Much hotter than the weather forecast said it would. The weather was so bad last time I was here that I managed to follow the wrong path and ended up in Tyneham village. The army commandeered the village and the surrounding area in 1943 and forgot to give it back at the end of the war.

Fortunately, weather conditions are much better today and I manage to find the correct path easily and head through the ramparts of the Iron Age fort, Flower's Barrow, gradually falling into the sea.

I leave the hillfort through a gap in the ramparts and wander steeply downhill to Worbarrow Bay where I come across a patch of flag iris and some big clumps of sea thrift.

I drop down to the shingle beach and wander along it for a bit. It's rather lovely here and quite a few other people agree even though the beach is in the middle of nowhere.

I walk back up the beach and cross a footbridge before climbing back up the cliffs.

I now have fine views over Worbarrow Tout before walking along the clifftops at Gad Cliff where I pass Wagon Rock. The wildflowers are looking lovely on the cliffs and I have lovely views over the countryside down to Tyneham.

I pass Brandy Bay and Hobarrow Bay and head down through fields full of cows. My walk through the ranges is over so I leave through the exit gate at the start of Kimmeridge Bay.

I immediately come across Kimmeridge Wellsite where I pass the nodding donkey oil pump which has been pumping oil since 1959.

I head around Kimmeridge Bay where a field trip is taking place, passing the Purbeck Marine Wildlife Reserve and Fine Foundation Marine Centre.

I climb steep steps up to Clavell Tower, a grade II listed Tuscan style tower built in 1830 and owned by the Landmark Trust. It was painstakingly moved, piece by piece, inland 25 metres away from the crumbling clifftop starting in 2006.

It is now an uneventful walk across the cliffs along fiddly, overgrown and windy paths. I walk up and downhill, crossing footbridges and navigate a tricky stretch of the path at Houns-tout cliff where I encounter a waterfall which doesn't seem to have any water. The cliffs are covered in wildflowers but there's also rather a lot of nettles.

I come across a small patch of bee orchids just coming into flower.

I climb some steep steps up a wooded cliff to reach a stone seat overlooking the sea. I have magnificent, if rather grey now, views.

I'm now high above the rather beautiful Chapman's Pool. Five years ago it was howling a gale and hammering down with rain when I got here and I had to help a couple of fellow walkers down the steps as they couldn't stand up in the wind. It's a much more peaceful day today!

It looks rather difficult to get down to the beach at Chapman's Pool, especially with a heavy back pack, but there are a few hardy souls down on the beach.

I descend down the steep flight of stone steps down to the fields behind Chapman's Pool. The coast path heads inland across fields to come across a minor road with a small car park nearby at Renscombe Farm.

This must be the road that takes me into Worth Matravers so I follow this road to reach my destination for the day the rather busy Square and Compass pub.

I head up the road slightly to the rather large car park for a rather small village. It is packed though! What a lovely day's walking.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

a yellowhammer
small copper butterflies
wall brown butterflies
red valerian
common bird's-foot trefoil
pyramidal orchids
common spotted orchids
bee orchids
six-spot burnets
viper's-bugloss
skipper (presumably dingy) butterflies

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 14.8 miles today which amounts to 35552 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking today. Ten out of ten!

Hmmm. My Ordnance Survey app is definitely playing up. There's no way that this graph is representative of the up and down route today. The total ascent today has been an alleged 200 metres or 656 feet.

MAP

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

saturday, 3rd june 2017

Today's weather forecast looks to be great, although not as warm as it should be at this time of year.

Lulworth Cove low tide 07:13

Lulworth Cove high tide 15:22

The walk begins at the Chesil Beach Visitors Centre located at the Ferrybridge car park. The road onto the Isle of Portland is extremely busy so I quickly cross the road and drop down onto the trackbed beside the road which used to be a railway line.

I immediately come across wildflowers and butterflies. It's going to be a good day!

I amble along the track next to the road heading for Weymouth before reaching the start of the Rodwell Trail, opposite the derelict Ferrybridge Inn, which is a walking and cycleway (the trail not the pub!) and part of the National Cycle Network Route 26. I have lovely views over to the Isle of Portland and ahead to Weymouth.

There are a series of markers on the Rodwell Trail every 500 metres, each with a symbol representing a creature, plant or historical feature. I won't be going all the way into Weymouth but I'll catch as many of the markers as possible. The first marker at the start of the trail shows a Whitehead Torpedo. These used to be built in a nearby factory where houses now stand.

I amble along the trail and come across the next marker, showing the old Ferrybridge railway bridge that used to cross the Fleet.

The next marker shows the rare 'Little Robin' flower that can be found on the trail.

Next up is a marker showing Weymouth's RNLI lifeboat, 'Ernest and Mabel'.

The final marker for me is one showing Henry VIII who built a lot of defences around here.

It's time for me to leave the trail and I turn right close to a railway cutting next to a coast path marker and drop from the old railway track down to the coast path.

I have magnificent and sunny views over to the Isle of Portland and over the breakwater and Portland Harbour.

I follow a road inland and pass the ruins of Sandsfoot Castle in its park.

I amble through the park, full of dog walkers, and then continue along the road, passing the entrance to Castle Cove Beach which is covered in rubbish and seems to be closed due to a landslip.

I continue along Marine Terrace and then Belle Vue Road and Bincleaves Road and then walk over Bridge Sea Wall at Newton's Cove. I have more lovely views over to Portland.

I walk along a grassy area above the cliffs and head into Nothe Gardens where I amble along the paths heading towards Nothe Fort, built by the Victorians to protect Portland Harbour.

I walk down a set of stone steps to reach the quayside and amble along the harbour, where I pass Weymouth Sailing Club, Weymouth Lifeboat Station, the Old Harbour Dive Centre and the Old Rooms Inn.

I cross the River Wey using the Town Bridge and amble along the other side of the harbour heading towards what was once the ferry terminal. Along the way I pass the Anchor Inn, the Royal Oak, the Ship Inn and the George Inn.

I pass a sign informing me that the Black Death entered England in 1348 through this port and killed 30-50% of the country's total population.

I cross a busy road and drop down onto Weymouth Beach and amble along the curving arc of golden sand, adjacent to the town centre. Even this early in the morning the beach is fairly busy.

At the far end of the beach I head up onto The Promenade and it is now properly hot. I pass some beach huts at Greenhill Gardens and then pass some benches made of the local oolitic limestone at Preston and Overcombe Beach.

I pass Lodmoor Country Park and then Lodmoor Nature Reserve. I now have magnificent views back over Weymouth, Portland Harbour and over to the Isle of Portland.

I should walk along the road, passing the Spyglass Inn and then amble along the low rolling Furzy Cliff but the beach is too tempting so I drop down to the pebby beach and carry along it all the way to Bowleaze Cove.

I work my way along paths through Fantasy Island Fun Park where I cross the River Jordan and I then pass the Riviera Hotel which, as I recall, was closed and a bit of a mess the last time I passed here but has now been fully renovated although it doesn't seem to be very busy.

I head inland slightly due to landslips before heading out onto Redcliff Point.

I follow the coast path as it meanders inland behind the crumbling cliffs through a field full of buttercups and pass an adventure centre before heading into woods on Black Head on the way to Osmington Mills.

I head through a campsite and then turn right onto the road which leads me down to Osmington Mills.

I head through the grounds of the Smugglers Inn before heading back out onto the clifftops. I amble over the top of Hannah's Ledge, Frenchman's Ledge, Pool Ledge, Bran Ledge and Perry Ledge before reaching Ringstead Ledge.

I have magnificent views back to Weymouth and Portland.

I reach a road and I head behind a car park, a shop and a cafe along a track and then drop down to the shingle beach at Ringstead Bay and enjoy the beach for a while.

I head back onto the coast path where a gravel and then grassy track heads up through woods and then on to Burning Cliff, named after a landslip in 1826 triggered an oil/shale fire which smouldered for several years. I enjoy the wildflowers here next to the tracks.

I pass the wooden church of St Catherine's Chapel built by the widow of a controversial vicar of London's Stroud Green, Dr Robert Linklater. The chapel was restored in 2010.

I head behind the chapel onto the crumbling chalk cliffs and out onto the headland at White Nothe. I pass by some old coastguard cottages at 548 feet and head along the clifftops where I have beautiful views along the chalk cliffs towards Bat's Head.

I pass West Bottom and Middle Bottom to reach a grassy hollow at The Warren, enjoying the masses of wildflowers and butterflies along the way.

It is now a rollercoaster ride up and down the chalk cliffs passing the natural arch at Bat's Hole to reach Bat's Head. I head out onto the headland where I have magnificent views back where I've come from and ahead towards Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove.

I descend steeply and can see a chalk stack out to sea before climbing steeply at Swyre Head. I descend steeply again at Scratchy Bottom (snigger) and have lovely views over the rock arch at Durdle Door.

I gingerly descend steps full of people to reach the lovely Durdle Door Beach which is heaving with people on this beautiful summer's day at the end of half term. I admire the limestone arch at close quarters. I enjoy the busy beach for a while before retracing my steps to regain the coast path.

I climb uphill and follow the well worn track full of people which passes a campsite (which explains why there's so many people). The crowds thin out and I climb up a long flight of steps above St Oswald's Bay and I can now see down towards Lulworth Cove.

I pass behind Dungy Head and head down the popular path towards the car park and pass the Lulworth Heritage Centre. I head out to Stair Hole and enjoy the views across the magnificent Lulworth Cove before descending across the old village green.

I walk back through the village and head back to the car park where my lift arrives just in time to avoid the exorbitant £4 parking fee.

WHAT A DAY!!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

pied wagtails
ox eye daisies
sea thrift
common blue butterflies
roses
hogweed
fennel
echiums
swallows
housemartins
chiffchaffs
buttercups
speckled wood butterflies
red admirals
wall brown butterflies
red campion
viper's-bugloss
six-spot burnets

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 16.2 miles today which amounts to 37726 steps. It has been an absolutely beautiful day's walking today in gorgeous sunshine. Ten out of ten!

My Ordnance Survey app has failed me today and claims that my total ascent was only 149 metres or 488 feet and shows nothing of the rollercoaster ride at the end of the day.