woolacombe to braunton

May 04, 2015 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast PATH

saturday, 2nd may 2015

Today's weather forecast looks to be on the ropey side and I can expect rain, wind and grey skies. It's not going to be a great day for photographs.

Bideford low tide 12:25

Bideford high tide 18:00

It's been far too long but I'm finally back out on the South West Coast Path after an 11 month gap.

A lot of today's walk will be spent trudging along sandy beaches in manky weather, starting with Woolacombe Sand, followed by Putsborough Sand, then Croyde Sand and finally a three mile trudge along Saunton Sands. It's a hard life but someone has to do the walking!

I start the day at Woolacombe where, except for a few dog walkers and joggers, I have the whole beach to myself, Hang on a sec though! There's no way that wind is just 20mph as predicted. It's blowing a gale! I strap my hat on and head towards the sea before trudging along the beach for a good two miles.

The far end of Woolcaombe Sand leads directly into Putsborough Sand. At the end of the beach I leave the sand behind me and pass the refreshment hut before turning right onto a track over Napps Cliff. The views looking back over Putsborough Sand to Woolacombe are usually amazing but not so much today due to the grey skies.

A grassy path goes through several stiles and onwards towards Baggy Point and there are signs of sheep with wool caught in the gorse and pooh everywhere. I hear the sheep but never actually see them. The path becomes a lot rockier around Baggy Point before heading back in the opposite direction towards Croyde Bay where it's difficult to stay upright in the strong wind.

I pass wild flowers on the way to Croyde including bladder campion, gorse and sea thrift.

bladder campion

gorse

sea thrift

I pass a restored pond, built by the Hyde family who were keen conservationists and come across red campion and bluebells. The bluebells look suspiciously like spanish bluebells rather than our more delicate native bluebells.

The path passes a preserved whalebone of a large whale that was washed up on Croyde beach in 1915. They were preserved by the Hyde family who gave Baggy Point to the National Trust in May 1939.

The path joins the road around Croyde Bay but I duck down on to Croyde Sand as soon as I can and head across the sandy beach. It's extremely windy. Although it's still early it's quite busy and there are plenty of surfers enjoying the waves here as well as a load of people playing rugby.

At the far end of the beach I climb a flight of steps and head along the coast before having to walk along the road and then cross the road to follow a grassy path above the road.

I now have lovely, but grey, views overlooking the large expanse of Saunton Sands before climbing down to the road at the Saunton Sands Hotel.

I usually get lost here but this time manage to find the path behind the hotel which even has a coast path sign I haven't noticed before. The path passes a tennis court, adventure playground and putting greens before dropping down to the beach cafe and car park. The official coast path heads inland and across a golf course which is crazy when there are three miles of sandy beach ahead. I flip a coin and the beach wins!

There are colourful beach huts at the start of Saunton Sands which look shabbier than I remember them.

It is quite busy but I soon leave the crowds behind wandering down miles to the sea and then walking along the vast beach.

Braunton Burrows lies behind the beach and it is well worth an exploration if you have the time. Braunton Burrows and the surrounding coastline were declared Britain's first UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in November 2002. I might try and come back later in the week.

As the beach approaches the estuary of the rivers Taw and Torridge it changes direction. Blimey! It's now blowing an almighty gale causing the sand to drift across the beach. I don't quite know how Braunton Burrows manages to survive in this wind.

At the end of Saunton Sands i rejoin the official coast path and from here it's a boring walk towards Braunton. I follow an embankment around Horsey Island, built in 1857 to reclaim the marshland. It stinks around here but the skylarks don't seem to mind. The embankment continues inland along the River Caen.

I reach Velator Quay, a rather stinky dump and my destination for the day! Velator Quay was built in 1853 as part of the marsh reclamation scheme and was a bustling little port until the railway arrived in 1874. There are plans to turn Velator Quay into a recreation area but I didn't notice any of the work having started yet.

Tomorrow I will return here and start to see some of the evidence of railways on the long walk to Westward Ho!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

skylarks
swallows
sheep
cows
red campion
bladder campion
sea thrift
gorse
bluebells
dog-violets

PODCAST

Unfortunately, there's no podcast available for this walk. My recording equipment failed to stand up to the blustery conditions. You can subscribe via the iTunes store to the other podcasts.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 15 miles today which amounts to 32832 steps. It's been a blustery - did I mention the wind? - and grey day today but the rain has somehow managed to stay away. Despite the stinky end to the walk it has been a thoroughly enjoyable day. 8 out of 10.

porthallow to falmouth

June 11, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

11th june 2014

Today's weather forecast looks to be fantastic again, with sun forecast all day long and warm temperatures. Woop!

Falmouth high tide 16:39

Falmouth low tide 10:54

I start the day back at the Five Pilchards Inn in Porthallow where I walk along the back of the beach and then climb some concrete steps before battling with the jungle like vegetation.

The flowers around here are amazing and there are bees and butterflies fluttering around everywhere. I enjoy the views back to Porthallow. A cliff top walk leads me to Nare Head where I can now see the Helford estuary which will be my companion for the rest of the day.

I walk along Trewarnevas Cliff but the views are mostly obscured by trees and the paths are fiddly and overgrown. There are deserted beaches here and I enjoy Men-aver beach all to myself before dropping down to the shore of Gillan Creek at Gillan Harbour.

I continue to reach Flushing Cove and the coast path continues down steps to the shore where there is a set of stepping stones which allows you to cross the creek at low tide. It's close to low tide but this route is closed due to bank erosion so I continue on the alternative high tide path around Gillan Creek.

The path follows the road although I'm sure it used to cross fields but I fail to see any signs and eventually takes me round to the head of Gillan Creek where I find some nesting swans with a number of cygnets.

I continue on the road but it is only fit for pedestrians as the road has had a serious malfunction and part of it has fallen in to the creek.

I drop down to the shoreline of Gillan Creek at the other side of the stepping stones and the shoreline leads me to the tiny village of St Anthony-in-Meneage where I explore the grounds of the parish church of St Anthony.

I walk along the road past the church and then through a gate and then up through fields. I turn direction and walk along the Helford River with fine views across to the other side. I enjoy the deserted beaches here.

I then enter woods where the views are more fleeting before joining a road which leads into Helford. I walk down to the ford and footbridge and pass the post office shop and the thatched Shipwrights Arms (@ShipwrightsArms) which is looking lovely after its recent-ish renovation.

I walk along a path and climb down some steps to reach the ferry stop only to find out that I've hit the river at precisely low tide so the ferry won't be running for a while. I open the brightly coloured sign to signal for the ferry and munch on some lunch while waiting for the half hour or so until the ferry is able to run again. The weather is indeed AWESOME.

The ferry takes me over the Helford River to Helford Passage and the Ferryboat Inn. I potter along the small beach here collecting shells.

I walk along a path at the edge of fields before entering woods and then a road at Durgan where I pass the Old School House.

The road continues through woods out of Durgan and continues to Bosloe.

I walk below Bosloe House and through the lovely Bosloe Hay Meadows where wildflowers and butterflies abound, especially at this time of year.

Next up are two lovely beaches, Porth Saxon (or Porth Sawsen) and Porthallack which are very familiar as we've stayed in Mawnan Smith the previous two years. I amble around these for a bit. They are deserted except for some sailors.

I enter woods near Mawnan and head through the woods to reach Rosemullion Head.

I pass tall pines, ferns, foxgloves and MASSIVE echiums and explore beaches not marked on my map before reaching Maenporth. The Maenporth beach cafe can be found here and life, is indeed, a beach. At least for this week.

I amble along Maenporth Beach collecting shells and then, since it's so hot, I grab an ice lolly at the beach cafe. I follow the wooded path that leads to Swanpool (@swanpoolbeach) and enjoy the wild flowers and butterflies.

I pass Hooked on the Rocks and enjoy the views over Swanpool. I descend on to the busy beach and wander along the beach collecting shells.

I climb out of Swanpool, passing the Swanpool Nature Reserve and the brightly coloured beach huts, to reach Gyllyngvase Beach where the Gylly Beach Cafe can be found. The sun has brought out the crowds and the beach is much busier than I am used to. I wander past the people playing beach volleyball and amble along the long, crescent shaped beach before heading for the heart of Falmouth. Above the beach i pass the Shellfish Pig (@theshellfishpig).

I head through the Princess Pavillion, enjoying the gardens here.

I wander through Falmouth to reach Custom House Quay at the end of the day's walk, along the way passing the Cutty Sark, 5 Degress West, the Quayside Inn, the Shipwrights and Chainlocker and the Front.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

wrens
chaffinches
robins
swans
masses of bees
a painted lady
swallows
red campion
foxgloves
cows
clover
buttercups
ribwort plaintain
scots pines
gunnera
honeysuckle
skippers
primulas
geraniums
roses

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 18.6 miles today which amounts to 35300 steps. I've had gorgeous sunny weather all day long and walking along the South West Coast Path doesn't get much better than this. 10 out of 10.

View porthallow to falmouth in a larger map

the lizard to porthallow

June 10, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

10th june 2014

Today's weather forecast looks to be a little cooler today with the possibility of showers which should make for perfect walking weather.

Helford River high tide 15:55

Helford River low tide 09:59

I return to the car park in the Lizard village first thing in the morning and wander down the footpath again towards Lizard Point, still getting the dreaded 'No Signal' on my phone.

I retrace my steps and pass in front of the youth hostel and then continue in front of the lighthouse. It's a pleasant morning so I continue ambling around to the Lizard Marconi Wireless Station, the oldest surviving Marconi wireless station.

I pass the Bass Point National Coastwatch Station and head towards the Lizard Lifeboat Station which has a shiny, new station at Kilcobben Cove, opened in May 2012. Having said that, it appears to be closed to visitors due to repairs.

I reach a small habitation at Church Cove and head towards Cadgwith, encountering a slow worm on the way. I haven't seen one of these for years, at least not alive!

I head on towards Cadgwith, passing the Devil's Frying Pan, where the collapse of a sea cave has led to the creation of a 100 meter deep hole.

I reach flowery Cadgwith and enjoy the roses and poppies here before wandering down to the beach trying to avoid all of the fishing equipment left clumsily lying around! I amble around the beach before stashing some scallop shells into my bag. Leaving the beach, I pass the Cadgwith Cove Inn (@CadgwithCoveInn) before climbing out of the village in front of a row of cottages overlooking the harbour. Some workmen are clearing a cottage here and their van is blocking the path so I have to scramble over vegetation to get around the van. That's about as exciting as the day gets!

I continue to Poltesco Cove where a footbridge crosses a wooded river, passing shetland ponies munching on the vegetation.

I continue on towards Kennack Sands, enjoying the views back over Poltesco. I reach Kennack Sands, pass the cafe here and wander down on to the beach to waste a bit of time. It can get popular here but I have the beach to myself at this time of the morning, except for somebody messing around in the rock pools here.

I walk across the beach and climb back up on to the cliffs, enjoying all of the wildflowers and wildlife on the low cliffs. I'm on my own now until I reach Coverack! I walk along easy paths over Eastern Cliff through gorse and heather passing Spernic Cove, Lankidden Cove, Butter Cove and Downas Cove to reach Beagles Point. On the way I come across another red admiral butterfly.

On Beagles Point I admire the view back to Lizard Point which will soon disappear from view.

I climb over the cliffs to reach the old coastguard lookout at Black Head. I turn in a northerly direction and enjoy the flora and fauna here. I come across another group of orchids and there are butterflies fluttering around all over the place.

Easy walking takes me on towards Coverack but before reaching the small fishing village, signs warn me of a steep and rocky descent so I pack my camera away just in case. It turns out to be a thoroughly decent descent and the path is much better than in other places. A shower of rain cools me down here but it barely lasts thirty seconds before the sun is out again.

I pass the Lifeboat House Restaurant and the Paris Hotel and enter the village of Coverack, passing the small harbour full of fishing boats.

Coverack is looking lovely on this summer's day. I visit St Peter's, the parish church here where signs warn about leaving wilting flowers in the churchyard and the consequences thereof! It's hot now so I nip into one of the the small stores here to grab an ice lolly.

I drop down temporarily to the beach, sucking on the lolly and then inspect the damaged sea wall. Coverack, like many of the places around here took a battering in the winter storms and the place still looks a bit of a mess but the sea wall is slowly being repaired.

I admire the sandy beach here one last time before climbing steps next to the damaged sea wall and walk along the road to leave Coverack, passing the Bay Hotel on the way.

I climb a tarmac road to leave Coverack and then enter a muddy area using granite stepping stones to keep relatively dry and mud free. It always seems to be muddy here! I continue on the path towards Lowland Point passing a herd of cows and then a group of flag irises.

I pass through the abandoned Dean Quarry - at least I think it's abandoned but signs still warn of blasting and continue to reach Godrevy Cove which, as ever, is completely empty. It's not really surprising since it's in the middle of nowhere!

I amble along the grey, sandy beach, collecting shells and then head inland on a path that seems to be different each time I come here. The path from here to Porthallow would test the Trade Descriptions Act as a coast path as, for much of the time, it's far from the coast. Hopefully, one day this stretch of coast path will be improved.

The path crosses farmland to reach the village of Porthoustock with its shingle beach housing small fishing boats and its still active quarry.

I follow the road to leave Porthoustock and then keep my eyes open for the signs that point to a vague path over fields and then re-joins the road. The path nips down a track behind the road where I pass the Fat Apples Cafe and then re-joins the road again for the short trek into Porthallow.

I pass the Five Pilchards Inn, henceforth known as the Five Pilhars Inn, and wander on the pebbly beach here.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

seagulls
cormorant
foxgloves
red campion
sea campion
snails
a fleeting glimpse of a hummingbird hawk moth
slow worm
roses
red admiral
flag irises
sea thrift
nasturtiums
common spotted orchids
honeysuckle
wood spurge
shetland ponies
poppies
gunnera

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've taken 40062 steps today. My phone failed to record my mileage all the way around today but it should be about 15 miles. The walking has been great and although it did threaten to rain briefly, aside from a very brief shower the weather has been warm and sunny. The walk is let down by the last stretch of coast path but, hey ho! 8 out of 10.

View the lizard to porthallow in a larger map

the lizard to porthleven

June 08, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

8th june 2014

It looks like good walking weather again with sunshine and plenty of breezes to keep me cool.

Porthleven high tide 13:44

Porthleven low tide 07:40

Major equipment (or user!) failure today. I don't have a phone signal at the Lizard so I can't start up some of my apps and then part way through today's walk I manage to switch the phone into airplane mode which stops all of the apps from recording any info. Bugger!

I start the day at the car park in the Lizard village. I'm walking this walk to Porthleven in the wrong direction so that when I reach Kynance Cove the sea won't have swallowed up the beach.

I wander down the footpath to reach Lizard Point, the most southerly point on mainland Great Britain noticing on the way the dreaded 'no signal' on my phone. Bugger! I wander down to the old lifeboat station (I'll pass the latest lifeboat station in a couple of days) and then climb back up and head off along the cliffs. Masses of seagulls are flying around here.

Choughs (@cornishchoughs) have taken up residence here. They became extinct in Cornwall in 1973 but returned in 2001. There are seven pairs of Choughs in 2014 and a non breeding flock of immature birds. I see a few of them playing in the air but they are difficult to photograph and it's far too breezy to record them.

I continue along the cliffs towards Kynance Cove enjoying the magnificent views and the lovely wildflowers. Before reaching Kynance Cove, Pentreath Beach can be found which is a little difficult to reach, involving scrambling down what appears to be little more than a goat track. It definitely looks worth the diversion but it's too adventurous for me with my heavy backpack.

At the top of Kynance Cove I'm greeted by some wooden boards highlighting the local wildlife before descending steeply down to the cove.

Bugger! I must have mis-read the tide times as there is little more than a postage stamp sized bit of the beach! I enjoy walking along what little of the beach I have anyway. I have the whole place to myself. I waste quite a bit of time here before strapping back on my bag and climbing back out of the cove, passing the Kynance Cove Cafe on the way.

As I climb out of Kynance Cove I pass the native bloody cranesbills. The views back overlooking Kynance Cove are magnificent.

After ambling for far too long I head off along the Lizard cliffs where I encounter the first orchids of the day, including loads of heath spotted orchids so I waste more time, taking photographs. They seemed to be easier to identify a year ago.

I continue along the cliffs, enjoying the views to reach Predannack. Predannack airfield is nearby and there is usually a constant stream of helicopters flying overhead but it's quiet today. Maybe they don't fly on a Sunday? The wild flowers around here are amazing and there's sea thrift everywhere.

common spotted orchids

dropwort

ragged robin

sheep's-bit

southern marsh orchid

Mullion Cove comes into view and I take the steep descent down to the harbour. Mullion Cove took a battering in the winter storms and the harbour was badly damaged. It's still looking a bit of a mess but at least it's being repaired.

I ascend the other side of Mullion Cove and pass the Mullion Cove Hotel (@mullioncove) before heading along the cliffs to reach sandy Polurrian Cove. I waste more time pottering along the sandy beach before climbing back out of Polurrian Cove and heading along the cliffs.

I pass the Marconi monument, a granite monument commemorating the first transatlantic radio transmission on the 12th of December 1901. I think that Marconi probably had a better signal 100-odd years ago than I've had today. I continue along the cliffs enjoying the masses of pink sea thrifts.

I reach Poldhu Cove where the Poldhu Beach Cafe (@poldhu) can be found and waste more time on the sandy beach. It's quite a bit busier here than I'm used to.

I leave Poldhu Cove via the road and encounter more sea thrift before descending down to Church Cove.

I waste yet more time on the sandy beach here before heading along the beach to reach the church of St Winwaloe, set into the hillside beside the beach.

I continue along Halzephron Cliff enjoying the beautiful wildflowers and Porthleven Sands has now come into view. Halzephron Cove can be found at the end of the cliffs but the climb down is a little adventurous even for me.

I continue walking to reach the much more benign Gunwalloe Fishing Cove. I meet some people here who I'll bump into again in Porthleven. I enjoy the sandy and pebbly beach before heading off on the final leg of my journey. The Halzephron Inn (@InnHalzephron) can be found slightly inland here.

I walk past ancient fishing winches enjoying the views to Porthleven.

I walk along the path above Porthleven Sands and then descend to Loe Bar and crunch along the pebbly beach.

From here it is easy walking to reach the harbour at Porthleven. I finish the day at the Harbour Inn where a refreshing pint of Tribute awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

seagulls
choughs
sea thrift
skylarks
heath spotted orchids
rooks
ragged robin
buttercups
caterpillars
common spotted orchids
southern marsh orchids
water forget-me-nots
sea campion
red campion
foxgloves

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

Fortunately I have a back up to my pedometer app so I've taken 36430 steps today. I've no idea how far I've walked but it should be about 13.5 miles. I've had gorgeous sunny weather all day long, it's been a beautiful early summer's day and the walking has been about as good as it gets on the South West Coast Path. 10 out of 10. No map today because of the equipment failures.

penzance to porthleven

June 07, 2014 by Mark Seymour in south west coast path

south west coast path

7th june 2014

Happy birthday to me
Happy birthday to me
Happy birthday dear me
Happy birthday to me!

Today's weather forecast looks to be a lovely, early summer's day. Perfect for walking. Woop!

Penzance high tide 12:34

Penzance low tide 06:34

I start the day at Jubilee Pool, Penzance's lido and the UK's largest remaining seawater lido. The lido suffered significant damage in this winter's storms and won't open this year. The place looks in a bit of a mess so I'm not sure that it will open again full stop.

I continue along the coast path around the harbour and pass the Isles of Scilly Travel Centre (@IOSTRAVEL). I've visited the beautiful St Mary's twice but won't have time on this visit. Along the way I pass the Dolphin Inn and the Dock Inn. The Scillonian III is moored on the harbour and people are boarding it ready to cross over to St Mary's.

I pass Penzance railway station and then join the cycleway, passing what was once the heliport for catching the helicopter to the Isles of Scilly but which is sadly now a Sainsbury's superstore. At a level crossing I join the beach and trudge towards St Michael's Mount (@ntmichaelsmount), collecting shells and pebbles on the beach.

At the causeway leading to St Michael's Mount I head off of the beach, following the path next to Folly Field.

I head towards Marazion and walk along Fore Street and then Turnpike Hill, passing the Godolphin Arms (@godolphinarms), the King's Arms and the Fire Engine Inn. Beside the Godolphin Arms is Maypole Gardens which suffered damage in the winter storms and is awaiting repairs.

On Turnpike Road I pass the Mount Haven Hotel and turn right down a road to leave Marazion behind and head towards Chymoryah East. Here I temporarily regain the shore and clamber over rocks before climbing up a metal stairway to walk along the low cliffs.

I reach Trenow Cove and look back over the beach towards St Michael's Mount before heading along the path to Boat Cove. I encounter my first orchids of the day here (southern marsh orchids I think) and then suddenly runners start to appear..

Not any old runners though. These are equipped with on board hydration tanks and stick on numbers. As I reach Perranuthnoe (@PerranTweets) the mystery becomes clear as there is a check point here for an endurance running race. The place is heaving. In this village can be found the Victoria Inn (@victoriaperran).

I escape the crowds and enjoy the relatively quiet Perran Sands just down the road before bravely facing the crowds again.

I amble back along the coast path below Acton Castle to reach Cudden Point and then Prussia Cove. Prussia Cove is actually made up of three distinct coves, Piskies Cove, Bessy's Cove and King's Cove but the tide is high and I can barely make them out.

I come across a research project investigating aspects of plant diversity in Cornwall. There are wild cabbages everywhere.

I continue my ambling to reach Kennegy Sands. The beach seems to be permanently closed here. It used to be difficult to access by climbing down two chain ladders but it's now fenced off. Even so, I'm sure I can spot footprints in the sand below!

There's plenty of flora and fauna to enjoy and I manage to catch a fleeting photograph of a red admiral butterfly as well as a much more obliging speckled wood.

I then head on towards Praa Sands. Here can be found the Sandbar and the Welloe Rock Inn. Despite being slightly sheltered, Praa Sands took a battering in the winter storms but the 'sand' in Praa Sands has returned so I walk along the beach. It's a bit rough for paddling and I suspect it's freezing, despite it being June.

Half way across the beach I climb back on to the low cliffs, passing a memorial honouring the crew of a Sunderland Flying Boat which crash landed on Praa Sands in 1943.

I head through the Sea Meads holiday homes passing massive echiums and leave the holiday homes behind, climbing to reach Rinsey Head where I come across Wheal Prosper tin mine, a rubbish mine which was only open for six years.

The path then starts to ramble aimlessly along the cliffs. The coast path is heaving again as I pass a large group of walkers stretched out for miles, presumably walking for the Alzheimer's Society, before finally entering Porthleven. I pass the Ship Inn (@TheShip_levy) on the outskirts of Porthleven and head around the harbour. Time for some chips and and some pints of St Austell Brewery's Tribute Ale at the Harbour Inn.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

rabbits
seagulls
rooks
red valerian
echiums
nigella
speckled woods
a tortoiseshell
southern marsh orchids
stinging nettles
chaffinches
sea thrift
the last of the bluebells
a wren
wild cabbage
buttercups
cow parsley
a red admiral
a thrush

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 17.1 miles today which amounts to 36190 steps. I've never seen the coast path so busy, had gorgeous sunny weather all day long. It's been a beautiful early summer's day and the walking has been fantastic. 9 out of 10.

View penzance to porthleven in a larger map