south west coast path

10th june 2014

Today's weather forecast looks to be a little cooler today with the possibility of showers which should make for perfect walking weather.

Helford River high tide 15:55

Helford River low tide 09:59

I return to the car park in the Lizard village first thing in the morning and wander down the footpath again towards Lizard Point, still getting the dreaded 'No Signal' on my phone.

I retrace my steps and pass in front of the youth hostel and then continue in front of the lighthouse. It's a pleasant morning so I continue ambling around to the Lizard Marconi Wireless Station, the oldest surviving Marconi wireless station.

I pass the Bass Point National Coastwatch Station and head towards the Lizard Lifeboat Station which has a shiny, new station at Kilcobben Cove, opened in May 2012. Having said that, it appears to be closed to visitors due to repairs.

I reach a small habitation at Church Cove and head towards Cadgwith, encountering a slow worm on the way. I haven't seen one of these for years, at least not alive!

I head on towards Cadgwith, passing the Devil's Frying Pan, where the collapse of a sea cave has led to the creation of a 100 meter deep hole.

I reach flowery Cadgwith and enjoy the roses and poppies here before wandering down to the beach trying to avoid all of the fishing equipment left clumsily lying around! I amble around the beach before stashing some scallop shells into my bag. Leaving the beach, I pass the Cadgwith Cove Inn (@CadgwithCoveInn) before climbing out of the village in front of a row of cottages overlooking the harbour. Some workmen are clearing a cottage here and their van is blocking the path so I have to scramble over vegetation to get around the van. That's about as exciting as the day gets!

I continue to Poltesco Cove where a footbridge crosses a wooded river, passing shetland ponies munching on the vegetation.

I continue on towards Kennack Sands, enjoying the views back over Poltesco. I reach Kennack Sands, pass the cafe here and wander down on to the beach to waste a bit of time. It can get popular here but I have the beach to myself at this time of the morning, except for somebody messing around in the rock pools here.

I walk across the beach and climb back up on to the cliffs, enjoying all of the wildflowers and wildlife on the low cliffs. I'm on my own now until I reach Coverack! I walk along easy paths over Eastern Cliff through gorse and heather passing Spernic Cove, Lankidden Cove, Butter Cove and Downas Cove to reach Beagles Point. On the way I come across another red admiral butterfly.

On Beagles Point I admire the view back to Lizard Point which will soon disappear from view.

I climb over the cliffs to reach the old coastguard lookout at Black Head. I turn in a northerly direction and enjoy the flora and fauna here. I come across another group of orchids and there are butterflies fluttering around all over the place.

Easy walking takes me on towards Coverack but before reaching the small fishing village, signs warn me of a steep and rocky descent so I pack my camera away just in case. It turns out to be a thoroughly decent descent and the path is much better than in other places. A shower of rain cools me down here but it barely lasts thirty seconds before the sun is out again.

I pass the Lifeboat House Restaurant and the Paris Hotel and enter the village of Coverack, passing the small harbour full of fishing boats.

Coverack is looking lovely on this summer's day. I visit St Peter's, the parish church here where signs warn about leaving wilting flowers in the churchyard and the consequences thereof! It's hot now so I nip into one of the the small stores here to grab an ice lolly.

I drop down temporarily to the beach, sucking on the lolly and then inspect the damaged sea wall. Coverack, like many of the places around here took a battering in the winter storms and the place still looks a bit of a mess but the sea wall is slowly being repaired.

I admire the sandy beach here one last time before climbing steps next to the damaged sea wall and walk along the road to leave Coverack, passing the Bay Hotel on the way.

I climb a tarmac road to leave Coverack and then enter a muddy area using granite stepping stones to keep relatively dry and mud free. It always seems to be muddy here! I continue on the path towards Lowland Point passing a herd of cows and then a group of flag irises.

I pass through the abandoned Dean Quarry - at least I think it's abandoned but signs still warn of blasting and continue to reach Godrevy Cove which, as ever, is completely empty. It's not really surprising since it's in the middle of nowhere!

I amble along the grey, sandy beach, collecting shells and then head inland on a path that seems to be different each time I come here. The path from here to Porthallow would test the Trade Descriptions Act as a coast path as, for much of the time, it's far from the coast. Hopefully, one day this stretch of coast path will be improved.

The path crosses farmland to reach the village of Porthoustock with its shingle beach housing small fishing boats and its still active quarry.

I follow the road to leave Porthoustock and then keep my eyes open for the signs that point to a vague path over fields and then re-joins the road. The path nips down a track behind the road where I pass the Fat Apples Cafe and then re-joins the road again for the short trek into Porthallow.

I pass the Five Pilchards Inn, henceforth known as the Five Pilhars Inn, and wander on the pebbly beach here.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

seagulls
cormorant
foxgloves
red campion
sea campion
snails
a fleeting glimpse of a hummingbird hawk moth
slow worm
roses
red admiral
flag irises
sea thrift
nasturtiums
common spotted orchids
honeysuckle
wood spurge
shetland ponies
poppies
gunnera

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've taken 40062 steps today. My phone failed to record my mileage all the way around today but it should be about 15 miles. The walking has been great and although it did threaten to rain briefly, aside from a very brief shower the weather has been warm and sunny. The walk is let down by the last stretch of coast path but, hey ho! 8 out of 10.

View the lizard to porthallow in a larger map

south west coast path

8th june 2014

It looks like good walking weather again with sunshine and plenty of breezes to keep me cool.

Porthleven high tide 13:44

Porthleven low tide 07:40

Major equipment (or user!) failure today. I don't have a phone signal at the Lizard so I can't start up some of my apps and then part way through today's walk I manage to switch the phone into airplane mode which stops all of the apps from recording any info. Bugger!

I start the day at the car park in the Lizard village. I'm walking this walk to Porthleven in the wrong direction so that when I reach Kynance Cove the sea won't have swallowed up the beach.

I wander down the footpath to reach Lizard Point, the most southerly point on mainland Great Britain noticing on the way the dreaded 'no signal' on my phone. Bugger! I wander down to the old lifeboat station (I'll pass the latest lifeboat station in a couple of days) and then climb back up and head off along the cliffs. Masses of seagulls are flying around here.

Choughs (@cornishchoughs) have taken up residence here. They became extinct in Cornwall in 1973 but returned in 2001. There are seven pairs of Choughs in 2014 and a non breeding flock of immature birds. I see a few of them playing in the air but they are difficult to photograph and it's far too breezy to record them.

I continue along the cliffs towards Kynance Cove enjoying the magnificent views and the lovely wildflowers. Before reaching Kynance Cove, Pentreath Beach can be found which is a little difficult to reach, involving scrambling down what appears to be little more than a goat track. It definitely looks worth the diversion but it's too adventurous for me with my heavy backpack.

At the top of Kynance Cove I'm greeted by some wooden boards highlighting the local wildlife before descending steeply down to the cove.

Bugger! I must have mis-read the tide times as there is little more than a postage stamp sized bit of the beach! I enjoy walking along what little of the beach I have anyway. I have the whole place to myself. I waste quite a bit of time here before strapping back on my bag and climbing back out of the cove, passing the Kynance Cove Cafe on the way.

As I climb out of Kynance Cove I pass the native bloody cranesbills. The views back overlooking Kynance Cove are magnificent.

After ambling for far too long I head off along the Lizard cliffs where I encounter the first orchids of the day, including loads of heath spotted orchids so I waste more time, taking photographs. They seemed to be easier to identify a year ago.

I continue along the cliffs, enjoying the views to reach Predannack. Predannack airfield is nearby and there is usually a constant stream of helicopters flying overhead but it's quiet today. Maybe they don't fly on a Sunday? The wild flowers around here are amazing and there's sea thrift everywhere.

common spotted orchids

dropwort

ragged robin

sheep's-bit

southern marsh orchid

Mullion Cove comes into view and I take the steep descent down to the harbour. Mullion Cove took a battering in the winter storms and the harbour was badly damaged. It's still looking a bit of a mess but at least it's being repaired.

I ascend the other side of Mullion Cove and pass the Mullion Cove Hotel (@mullioncove) before heading along the cliffs to reach sandy Polurrian Cove. I waste more time pottering along the sandy beach before climbing back out of Polurrian Cove and heading along the cliffs.

I pass the Marconi monument, a granite monument commemorating the first transatlantic radio transmission on the 12th of December 1901. I think that Marconi probably had a better signal 100-odd years ago than I've had today. I continue along the cliffs enjoying the masses of pink sea thrifts.

I reach Poldhu Cove where the Poldhu Beach Cafe (@poldhu) can be found and waste more time on the sandy beach. It's quite a bit busier here than I'm used to.

I leave Poldhu Cove via the road and encounter more sea thrift before descending down to Church Cove.

I waste yet more time on the sandy beach here before heading along the beach to reach the church of St Winwaloe, set into the hillside beside the beach.

I continue along Halzephron Cliff enjoying the beautiful wildflowers and Porthleven Sands has now come into view. Halzephron Cove can be found at the end of the cliffs but the climb down is a little adventurous even for me.

I continue walking to reach the much more benign Gunwalloe Fishing Cove. I meet some people here who I'll bump into again in Porthleven. I enjoy the sandy and pebbly beach before heading off on the final leg of my journey. The Halzephron Inn (@InnHalzephron) can be found slightly inland here.

I walk past ancient fishing winches enjoying the views to Porthleven.

I walk along the path above Porthleven Sands and then descend to Loe Bar and crunch along the pebbly beach.

From here it is easy walking to reach the harbour at Porthleven. I finish the day at the Harbour Inn where a refreshing pint of Tribute awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

seagulls
choughs
sea thrift
skylarks
heath spotted orchids
rooks
ragged robin
buttercups
caterpillars
common spotted orchids
southern marsh orchids
water forget-me-nots
sea campion
red campion
foxgloves

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

Fortunately I have a back up to my pedometer app so I've taken 36430 steps today. I've no idea how far I've walked but it should be about 13.5 miles. I've had gorgeous sunny weather all day long, it's been a beautiful early summer's day and the walking has been about as good as it gets on the South West Coast Path. 10 out of 10. No map today because of the equipment failures.