the saints' way

11th september 2013

The weather forecast for the day looks a bit on the dull side but at least it will be cooler than the last few days.

Today's walk features loads of wayside crosses along the way. The churchyard of the parish church of St Nivet at Lanivet contains two finely carved crosses. The first, a wheel headed cross can be found to the north of the church and the second, a four holed cross, can be found to the west of the church.

The Way climbs out of Lanivet village and goes under the A30 to Reperry Cross. A wheel headed cross can be found here on top of a hedge. A granite guide stone is encountered, pointing the way back to Lanivet. Thomas Hardy visited here in 1872 and wrote the poem 'Near Lanivet'.

“There was a stunted handpost just on the crest,
Only a few feet high:
She was tired, and we stopped in the twilight-time for her rest,
At the crossways close thereby.
”

A bit further on another wayside cross is encountered close to St Ingunger farm. The path continues through Fenton Pits where another cross can be found at the side of the road.

The path reaches the hamlet of Trebell Green and continues to Helman Tor Gate. At this point the Way splits into two, one way travelling to Fowey via Luxulyan and Tywardreath. My route today reaches Fowey via Lanlivery and Golant.

I take a detour to climb the summit of Helman Tor Gate at 680 feet to visit the remains of a 6000 year old Neolithic enclosure. The view today is fantastic, if a bit on the dull side, and I can look back to the Atlantic coast and the start of the Way, and forwards to the English Channel and the end of the walk.

The path continues towards Lanlivery along an ancient granite hedged ridgeway before joining a minor road. Menawink Cross can be found here.

The path continues over Pennant Crossroads to reach the village of Lanlivery. The path passes the Lanlivery Parish Church, St Brevita and the Crown Inn where I'd have been tempted by a pint of Doombar but it was nowhere near opening time.

The Way leaves the village and briefly follows the A390 to Lostwithiel where a wayside cross known as Crewel can be found at No Man's Land.

The path turns right at some granite gateposts. A filthy bridleway was shut here so I had to divert close to Lostwithiel before reaching Castle and Milltown and continued under the railway bridge of the Paddington to Penzance line, passing Lantyan and Woodgate Woods where the Fowey River can now be glimpsed.

Our home from home for the week, Golant, is reached where St Sampson's Church can be found as well as the tempting Fisherman's Arms. A pint of Doombar here can wait until the walk is finished.

The path leaves the village by a footpath up onto the downs with lovely views over the estuary and continues through woods down to Sawmills Creek.

The 17th century water mill found here now houses Sawmills recording studio where the likes of XTC, Robert Plant, The Stone Roses, Oasis, The Verve, Supergrass and Muse have all recorded.

The path continues across a stream and ascends to Penventinue Farm before reaching the main road in to Fowey. It passes the Bodinnick Ferry at Caffa Mill before finally reaching Fowey.

The last stretch climbs Bull Hill to reach the end of the Saints' Way at the Church of St Fimbarrus which means it's Doombar time so after pottering around for a bit in Fowey I head back to the Fishermans Arms in Golant.

A guide pack of The Saints' Way can be obtained from the Fowey tourism website for £4.99 plus £2 postage at the time of writing. The pack features 13 full colour, laminated and illustrated cards: eight route cards, each showing a map section of the journey including information on distance, time, terrain, and facilities, as well as descriptions and information about places on the route.

flora and fauna

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

dead badgers
dead squirrel
dead shrew
cows
swallows
robin
grey wagtail
ferns
lichens
llamas

Podcast

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

Marks out of ten?

According to my phone I've walked 16 miles today which amounts to 34420 steps. The way marking has been excellent again so for a change I haven't got lost once and I've only been stung by nettles once so that also makes a pleasant change. 8 out of 10.

Why do so many websites in these parts use evil Flash though?

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the saints' way

10th september 2013

This is the first leg of a two day walk along The Saints' Way, a walk across Cornwall from Padstow to Fowey. The first day's walk is from Padstow to Lanivet and it's an unusual walk for me as it leaves the coast behind almost immediately.

The weather forecast for the day looks fantastic so I might be in for another hot and sticky day. Fortunately the distance covered won't be as much as the previous three days.

Today's walk begins at the lych gate of St Petroc Church, a little inland from Padstow's harbour. A Celtic four holed cross by the door of the church hints at the original Celtic monastery that would have once inhabited the churchyard.

The footpath leaves Padstow (good luck finding any signs) via Hill Street, Dennis Road and Dennis Lane with the Camel estuary on the left and climbs Dennis Hill with a granite obelisk on the top. There are some lovely views across the Camel estuary here.

The path continues to Trerethern Creek where a tidal mill, 'Seamills', used to work by impounding the waters at high tide and then releasing them as the tide receded.

A 14th century church is reached at Little Petherick. The church was rebuilt in the mid 1800s and the interior was restored in 1898.

The Saints' Way follows the A389 for a bit before reaching Mellingey, a hamlet containing a handful of cottages and a five storey mill, before reaching the hamlet of Trenance.

The Way crosses the A39 and passes West Park Farm and No Man's Land before climbing to St Breock Downs. The Bronze Age St Breock Longstone - the heaviest standing stone in Cornwall, weighing 16.5 tonnes - is found together with a number of burial barrows. There are spectacular views back to the Camel estuary to the north and the china clay tips to the south. The prehistoric hill fort of Castle-an-Dinas can be seen to the west.

It's windy up here!!

The Way then drops down to Hustyn Wood passing a number of wind turbines. The Way passes through Tregawne Valley to reach Tregustick and then a ford at the Ruthern River.

The path continues to the village of Withiel with its medieval church of St Clement before reaching the hamlet of Retire and passes Tremore Manor gatehouse. A Celtic cross can be found in the road verge here. I struggled to find it so it might be hidden amongst stinging nettles at the moment.

Just before reaching the granite clapper bridge spanning the River Ruthern at Tremorebridge, a 19th century cast iron guidepost can be found.

The Saints' Way then heads towards the destination for the day and the half way point, Lanivet village and the day should have ended with a refreshing pint of Tribute in the Lanivet Inn but it was closed so I headed back to the Fisherman's Arms instead.

flora and fauna

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

little egrets
cows
swallows
pheasants
pigeons
blackberries
swans
japanese anemones

Podcast

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

Marks out of ten?

According to my phone I've walked 17.3 miles today which amounts to 37119 steps. What a thoroughly charming walk this had been today especially considering that the coast was left behind so early on in the day. 8 out of 10. After leaving Padstow the way marking has been fantastic and I'd have never have found my way without them. Can whoever is responsible move on to do the South West Coast Path now! Thank you.

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