south west coast path

7th september 2013

The weather forecast for the day is pretty good. I've strapped my waterproofs onto my bag anyway but it doesn't look like they will be needed today.

The day begins with a trek down the bank of the River Fowey to catch the early-ish ferry over to Polruan. The ferry starts at 07:30 on a Saturday allowing for the early start.

Normally I'd follow the walks as detailed in Paddy Dillon's book 'The South West Coast Path' so the week's walking would normally be Mevagissey to Polmear, followed by Polmear to Polperro, Polperro to Portwrinkle and then Portwrinkle to Plymouth. However, since we're staying in Golant for the week, today's walk will be from Golant on down to Fowey and then onwards to Looe.

After crossing the River Fowey a small, sandy beach can be found at Polruan Quay unless the tide is in, which it was today. The start of the walk proper begins at the Lugger Inn on The Quay at Polruan before passing Polruan's second pub the Russell Inn. Both were closed at this early hour of the morning so it was time for some serious walking.

The path climbs to reach the National Coastwatch Station before reaching Lantic Bay. A white sand and shingle beach is found at Lantic bay, reached via a steep cliff path and this beach is normally very quiet, as it was today. On leaving the beach the path heads towards Pencarrow Head.

The path becomes a roller-coaster before dropping steeply into West Combe and over a footbridge above a waterfall. The coast path turns to the left but I head to the right instead to gain access to the lovely Lansallos Beach. The beach is a small, sheltered sand and shingle beach and is not well known so usually very quiet. I had the beach all to myself.

Back on the coast path, more footbridges are encountered before passing an obelisk daymark, even more footbridges and eventually reaches Raphael Cliff and its fine views.

Chapel Cliff is reached before the path climbs down to the harbour at Polperro. A small, sandy beach can be found here just outside of the harbour wall, only available at low tide.

Polperro

Polperro is a village and fishing harbour within the civil parish of Lansallos. It is situated on the River Pol and is well known for its idyllic location, surrounded by tightly packed old fisherman's houses which makes it attractive to tourists, particularly in the summer months. The village still has a small fishing fleet and you can also find the Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing here.

The path continues past the Blue Peter Inn and the area where the fish is landed in Polperro and then continues around the harbour crossing the River Pol at the House on the Props tea room and restaurant.

The path goes along The Warren, around Downend Point passing a granite war memorial and heads on towards Talland Bay. Talland Bay has two sand and shingle beaches - Talland Sand and Rotterdam Beach. The Talland Bay Cafe is passed followed by the Smuggler's Rest Cafe.

The path reaches Hendersick and then passes the Hore Stone, just offshore, and there is a view over Portnadler Bay to St George's Island. The path continues around Hannafore Point and Looe comes into view. Hannafore beach can be found here which is mostly rocky but does contain some sand and shingle.

The path continues down a road and then drops down to the harbourside. You can catch a ferry over from West Looe to East Looe but, instead, I headed along the harbourside and used the roadbridge to cross the River Looe, on the way passing Tom Sawyers Tavern, the Jolly Sailor Inn and the Harbour Moon Inn.

Looe

Looe is a small coastal town and fishing port and is divided by the River Looe into two, West Looe and East Looe. The town is situated around a small harbour and along the steep sided valley of the River Looe which flows between East and West Looe to the sea beside a sandy beach.

The Looe Tourist Information Centre can be found on Fore Street in East Looe and the Old Guildhall Museum and Gaol on Higher Market Street offers plenty of history about the town.

Flora and fauna

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today include :-

hydrangeas
penstemons
alpacas
cows
honeysuckle
japanese knotweed
swallows

Podcast

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

Marks out of ten?

According to my phone I've walked 18.2 miles today which amounts to 39053 steps. The walking today has been lovely so I'd give the walk an 8 out of 10. I'm seriously thirsty so it's off back to the Fisherman's Arms for some refreshing Doombar.

View golant to looe in a larger map

east mendip way

24th august 2013

Today's walk starts at the Poacher's Pocket pub car park in Chelynch. The path leaves Chelynch along the King's Road and enters farmland where there is allegedly a footpath. All I saw was a field full of corn so I immediately got lost before eventually finding my way to the Waggon & Horses pub on the Old Frome Road. Thanks Newman Street Farm for the entertaining diversion!

To regain the East Mendip Way I walked down the Old Frome Road to Long Cross and then walked down Funtle Lane where some buzzards were calling.

The path then leads to Dallimore Lane and climbs up away from the village of Dean.

The OS map and my Mendip Way guide book seem to suggest that the path leads to a communications mast and past Cranmore Tower but the way marks seem to disagree and I only got a glimpse of Cranmore Tower through the trees. A path passes between Great Gains Wood and Battlefields Wood where some swallows were enjoying the late summer weather. Actually, it was a bit grey but they seemed to be enjoying it anyway.

The path then passes Bottlehead Springs where water can be heard bubbling in the ditches.

A road junction is reached at the village of Downhead but the path soon leaves the road and climbs to Asham Wood before following the valley through the woods. The path here was filthy and I got lost again and ended up on the Old Wells Road instead of reaching the village of Chantry.

Walking along roads led me back to the village of Chantry where a couple of loose, grumpy dogs chased me down the village, barking and baring their teeth. What a welcoming village Chantry is!

A way mark led me to a field where there was no sign of a footpath so I got lost again before finally finding my way back to Whatley Quarry.

The Way then skirts around Whatley Quarry before reaching Chantry Lane. Presumably Saturday isn't a blasting day so it was fairly peaceful. The path then enters woods at Railford Bottom before climbing the valley side using a series of steps with a great view back to Whatley Quarry.

Eventually the path reaches the Mells to Frome road at Murder Combe before crossing the quarry railway line and then arrives at the duckpond at Great Elm.

The path then passes a series of disused limekilns and some large quarry stones and then follows Egford Brook where an alleged way mark was absent so I missed the path out of the valley and so another diversion eventually led me to The Leys with some lovely views over the Mendips. The path then descended to the A362 road on the outskirts of Frome.

Leaving the A362 the Way goes through the suburb of Trinity, built in the latter half of the 17th century and the first half of the 18th century and is a fine example of early industrial housing.

The path become a pedestrian walkway at York Street before descending towards Market Place and the end of the walk.

Wildlife encountered on the walk today :-

cows
sheep
horses
buzzards
swallows
a couple of female pheasants
a lone red admiral

Marks out of ten?

If it wasn't for the dogs, the woeful way marks and the awful footpaths I'd have given it 2/10 but the dogs et al have downgraded it to 1/10. Needless to say I won't be returning. Thanks to Mendip District Council for a shocker of a walk!

View chelynch to frome in a larger map