kew bridge to putney bridge

July 10, 2018 by Mark Seymour in thames path

thames path

friday, 6th July 2018

Phew! What a scorcher!!.

Kew Bridge high tide 08:28

Kew Bridge low tide 16:22

I start the day at our apartment in Acton, West London, where I've barely left the apartment before being greeted by the lovely shrieking of swifts enjoying the glorious sunshine. It is going to be a baking day today.

I wander an uneventful three or so miles down to Kew Bridge on the north bank of the River Thames. I take to quiet-ish streets attempting to avoid as many of the busy A roads as possible.

As I approach Kew I enter Gunnersbury Park and I'm immediately surprised by the loud squawking of parakeets. I know that parakeets are quite common across London now but even so, it feels rather unexpected.

I wander through Gunnersbury Park which is a rather lovely, quiet oasis before getting dumped out onto the busy roads around the beginning of the M4.

I make my way down to Key Bridge through what is the construction site for Brentford Football Club's new stadium, due to be completed in July 2019.

Kew Bridge was opened in 1903 as King Edward VII Bridge by King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra and was designed by John Wolfe-Barry and Cuthbert A Brereton.

The granite bridge has shields bearing the arms of Middlesex and Surrey which were the two counties occupying the two sides of the river at the time of the opening.

I've reached the River Thames and I come across my first Thames Path sign before continuing along Strand on the Green where I pass through a garden with benches looking out on to the river.

I pass by the Bell and Crown pub. The path here can be entirely coved by the river at high tide but I'm OK today so I carry on next to the river.

I pass a row of riverside houses, including Prospect House. It's all rather posh around here! I pass a rather large house with a blue plaque commemorating the painter Johan Zoffany, a founding member of the Royal Academy, who lived here between 1790 and 1810. Unfortunately I'm still getting used to the sun so completely fail to see this blue plaque.

I continue along the path and pass the Dutch House where the film director John Guillermin lived (nope, I've not heard of him either! but he directed The Towering Inferno and Death on the Nile).

I pass a modern development of houses and then pass Tunnel Cottage before passing by the City Barge pub which claims to date back to the 14th century making it one of the oldest pubs in London.

I now have views over to Kew Railway Bridge.

I pass under Kew Railway Bridge, opened in 1869 and designed by William Robert Galbraith, consisting of five green wrought iron lattice girder spans of 35 metres each.

The Dalek Invasion of Earth was filmed here in 1964 where the TARDIS materialises under the bridge.

On the other side of the bridge I pass by the grade II listed 18th century Bulls Head pub. Legend has it that Oliver Cromwell, after whom Oliver's Island opposite is named, once used the inn but the story seems to be a load of old nonsense.

I pass by 18th century houses and then a pink granite drinking fountain built in 1880 before I leave the river and head along Grove Park Road.

I pass a sign for Redcliffe Gardens Riverside Walk which seems to be open to the public so I head down it. It turns out to be a dead end so I retrace my steps.

I walk past the University of London Boathouse which seems to be a rather scruffy affair compared to everything else around here.

I wander past Redcliffe Gardens and then pass Hartington Court, an Art Deco block built in 1938 and designed by John E Adams.

I wander inland of the river for a while before returning to the river at Chiswick Quay where I can see Putney Town Rowing Club over the other side of the river.

I walk over the top of the lock at Chiswick Quay Marina and head up Ibis Lane, passing the rather scruffy Mortlake Anglian & Alpha Boat Club and Quintin Boat Club.

Over the other side of the river I can see Stag Brewery, now presumably converted to residential properties, but at the end of its brewing life brewed Budweiser beer.

I pass under Chiswick Bridge, a rather ugly reinforced concrete bridge opened in 1933.

I pass through Tideway Scullers School, a rowing club founded in 1957, and I'm now back on the river where I enter Duke's Meadow.

It is now baking so I start munching on first peas followed by cherries, strawberries and a nectarine.

I pass by the golf course, driving range and tennis courts. Just before Barnes Bridge I pass behind Chiswick Boathouse (rather scruffy again) and pass Chiswick Rugby Football Club (currently an eyesore) which seems to be undergoing some kind of development. I detour into Dukes Hollow Local Nature Reserve which turns out to be a stinky, nettle infested dump.

I rejoin the path and pass Chiswick Horticultural & Allotment Society. The allotment looks like it might be quite nice inside but it's surrounded by a high fence. I pass through an arch under the Barnes Railway.

I turn right to head back towards the river passing the Riverside Club to rejoin the river where I can look back towards Barnes Railway Bridge.

I think I can now smell beer being brewed. I pass Emanuel School Boat Club and then amble along the river path passing bandstands and a wooded section.

It is now time to leave Duke's Meadow.

I enter the rather posh looking Thames Crescent where I pass Chiswick Sea Cadets.

A paved promenade takes me to Chiswick Pier.

I pass St Nicholas church, dating largely from the 1880s. The tomb of William Hogarth, celebrated painter, engraver and caricaturist, can be found on the south side of the church.

The smell of beer becomes stronger. I follow a road parallel to the river passing 18th century houses, including Bedford House, before passing Fuller's Griffin Brewery, built in 1845 but on a much older beer brewing site.

I pass by Chiswick Eyot, an uninhabited river island, and then Walpole House.

The earliest records relating to Walpole House date from the beginning of the eighteenth century when it was the home of Barbara Villiers, Duchess of Cleveland and former mistress of Charles II. After her death it passed to the Honourable Thomas Walpole, nephew of Sir Robert Walpole (Prime Minister 1721 to 1742), who gave the house its name.

I leave the river and wander along Chiswick Mall where I pass a blue plaque commemorating Sir Alan Herbert, an English humorist, novelist, playwright and law reform activist. The plaque is almost hidden from view as the building is covered in scaffolding.

I pass the Black Lion pub where I return to the river again.

I pass a row of arches which are the remains of Hammersmith Pumping Station, built by the Metropolitan Water Board in 1909 but decommissioned in 1997.

I'm now on the Hammersmith Mall Riverside Walk. I pass the Old Ship pub and then Linden House, home of the London Corinthian Sailing Club and the Sons Of The Thames Rowing Club.

I pass by Kelmscott House Museum, a Georgian brick mansion now home to the William Morris Society. It was the London home of English textile designer, artist, writer and socialist William Morris from October 1878 until his death in October 1896.

A sign on the house is partially obscured by wisteria but tells me that the first electric telegraph was built here in 1816 by Francis Ronalds, consisting of an 8 mile long overhead telegraph.

I pass The Dove pub and turn into Furnivall Gardens, created in 1951 on the site of a Quaker meeting house which was destroyed by a flying bomb in 1944 and I then pass the Rutland Arms and The Blue Anchor.

I now have views over Hammersmith Bridge.

I continue along the river to reach Hammersmith Bridge. I pass under the bridge and pass beside Riverside Studios, an arts complex which is in the middle of redevelopment and should fully open in 2019, although the Thames Path which runs outside is fully open.

I pass by a statue of Lancelot 'Capability' Brown (some would say 'Incapability'!), next to Fulham Reach Boat Club and The Blue Boat, who lived not far away from here for 13 years.

I pass by a sculpture called 'Figurehead', created by Rick Kirby in 2014.

Over the river I can see the old Harrods Furniture Depository, built in 1894 as a storage centre for large items which couldn't be housed in the main store but now a residential estate.

I pass Thames Wharf Studios, once an industrial site containing the Duckham's oil facility. It was acquired by the Richard Rogers Partnership in 1983, which converted the industrial complex of redundant 20th century warehouses into offices, workshops, housing and the River Cafe restaurant.

Out in the river on the remains of presumably a pier are a load of gulls and a couple of cormorants. I pass The Crabtree pub.

I continue ambling along the path by the river passing endless blocks of flats before coming across rusty pumps at Rowberry Mead. I can't find out any information about them.

Formally known as Roseberry Meade, this was an old homestead dating from 1638, which used to be attached to a cherry orchard, reputed to be the finest in England. They'd have to be pretty fine cherries to beat the ones I've just eaten!

I now come across Craven Cottage, home to Fulham Football Club which I have to detour behind. Even the football stadiums are posh around here!

I pass by Bishops Park, formally the site of the Bishop of London's summer residence where you can find Fulham Palace.

I'm now nearly at the end of my walk and I can see my destination, Putney Bridge, just in front of me. I stroll past the park through a formal garden where I find a memorial to people from Hammersmith and Fulham who fought in the International Brigade against Spanish fascism, 1936 to 1939.

“In honour of the volunteers who left Hammersmith and Fulham to fight in the International Brigade, Spain 1936 – 1939. They fought alongsidethe Spanish people to stop fascism and save liberty and peace for all. They went because their open eyes could see no other way. “No pasaran!””

I enter Pryor's Bank. The four sculptures at the corners of the lawn here - Leda, Adoration, Grief and Protection - were donated to mark the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. The fountain, of best Sicilian marble was installed in 1901 but was never sprayed properly.

Just before the bridge I pass All Saints Fulham and then my walking is done. I walk along the underpass under Putney Bridge and head towards the railway bridge where I pass The Eight Bells, before turning left to head towards Putney Bridge tube station which will take me back to Acton.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

swifts
parakeets
common oak
sweet chestnuts
red admirals
canada geese
a heron
gulls
cormorants
ragwort
wisteria
lavender
agapanthus
acanthus
day lillies
crocosmia
london plane trees

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 11.8 miles today which amounts to 24079 steps. It has been another beautiful day's walking today in sweltering conditions. Nine out of ten!

MAP

oxford to abingdon

August 30, 2014 by Mark Seymour in thames path

THAMES PATH

30TH AUGUST 2014

August has been relatively cold and wet but the weather forecast going in to September is much better and today is no exception so I'm expecting the sun to make an appearance and for it to be quite warm today.

The day begins with a train journey from Bristol Parkway to the start of today's walk, Oxford. I walk the short distance from Oxford train station to regain the Thames Path at Osney Bridge. It's a short walk today but I'll crack on anyway and hopefully have a bit of spare time to explore Oxford when I return later on today.

I cross the River Thames over Osney Bridge and head on along the south bank of the river and pass the terraced cottages on East Street.

Here can be found the Punter Inn but it's way too early to be lingering. Instead, I head on, crossing Osney Lock. Himalayan Balsam is invading the river banks here.

I pass an industrial estate, but it's heavily screened by vegetation and walk under a railway bridge. The riverside path curves around Grandpoint Nature Park, created on the site of Oxford's gasworks, and I pass under Gasworks Bridge and then Grandpoint Bridge, both of which are now pedestrian bridges.

My guidebook tells me that I pass an ice rink and then some college residences at Jubilee Terrace, but I don't notice them, before climbing up onto Folly Bridge, a stone bridge carrying the Abingdon road. The bus back from Abingdon will return down this road later on today.

I cross the road at a pedestrian crossing and drop back down on to the river path. I pass Salter's Steamers and Christ Church Meadow, a large area of pasture owned and maintained by Christ Church, over the other side of the river. In the distance I can see the herd of Longhorn cattle grazing on the meadow and I come across some bears enjoying the view.

bears enjoying the view at christ church meadow

My guidebook promises that from here I can see some of the Oxford skyline, including Merton College and the dome of the Radcliffe Camera. In reality the skyline is a long way off and obscured by trees. There is a row of boathouses over the other side of the river and also the swanky, new-ish University College boathouse.

The river is suddenly full of activity with rowing boats and narrow boats everywhere and cyclists going up and down the towpath shouting instructions to the rowers.

I pass (my notes say) Long Bridge Nature Park, but could be Longbridges Nature Park, and then Falcon Rowing and Canoeing Club on the opposite bank of the river, which is a hive of activity.

I cross two more footbridges and leave Oxford behind me. Over a road bridge I reach Iffley Meadows, which, like North Meadow earlier on the path, is full of snakes head fritillaries in the spring. There's no sign of these flowers now. Next door to the meadow is the Isis Boathouse.

I come across the Isis Farmhouse which can only be reached by boat, bike or on foot and seems to have no website that I can find. Not only that but they are also closed Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday! Not sure how trade is here but it doesn't seem to make for a very good strategy!! Still, there's plenty of benches outside so business must be good.

I reach Iffley Lock which is in full swing and from here my guidebook promises that I can see across to the Norman Iffley Church. I see nothing but trees!

The towpath here is full of flowers even this late in the year so I mount my macro lens onto my camera to capture a few of them.

I continue along the tow path and walk underneath the Oxford ring road bridge which briefly shatters the peace. Some graffiti on the bridge brightens things up and some swallows appear to be nesting under the bridge despite the noise.

A footbridge takes me over Hinksey Stream and immediately I walk under the railway bridge here. I'm now in open meadows owned by the Oxford Preservation Trust, where more fritillaries reside in the spring. I pass some crackling pylons and then a stone telling me when the field was acquired.

After admiring the meadows I head on towards Sandford-on-Thames where I pass the Four Pillars Hotel on the other side of the river. I'll pass the hotel again on the bus trip back to Oxford.

My guidebook tells me that the sound of water should be increasing as I approach Sandford Lasher weir and a memorial column stands on the weir as a reminder that the water is lethal here. Somehow I manage to completely miss the weir! I'll have to revisit some day to try to find it.

The King's Arms can be reached at Sandford Lock by crossing over the lock to the other side of the river and since it's Saturday, there should be a weekly market in the village hall.

I briefly visit the pub and then head back over the other side of the river again and walk past the lock and over a bridge to reach peaceful farmland before reaching the boathouses of Radley College. The boathouse is all locked up and deserted except for a man and his friendly alsatian.

I cross the slipway to the boathouse via a footbridge and continue along the Thames. The footpath here is very muddy and I struggle to stay upright. I hate to think what the path is like in the Winter. I slither my way along the path to reach some more boathouses where Nuneham House can be seen nestling over the other side of the river.

I'm now on the final stretch of today's walk heading towards Abingdon where I enjoy more flowers and some canada geese fly over me, honking away.

I continue along the Thames where the river traffic has increased but I can't really see it through the vegetation. I walk through open meadowland and pass some woods and walk under a railway bridge.

I continue through scrubland and pass two picnic sites to reach the weir at Swift Ditch. The man with his alsatian passes me on his bike.

I follow an inlet slightly inland from the Thames and then regain the river and cross Abbey Stream via a wooden footbridge to reach Abingdon Weir.

I cross the weir and cross the lower lock gates and continue along the towpath with a view of the spire of St Helen's in the distance. I should get a better view of the church on a later walk.

I climb the steps on to Abingdon Bridge to reach my destination for the day.

After a peaceful day, it's rather noisy around here, so I waste no time exploring Abingdon and instead head quickly to the bus stop for the X3 bus back to Oxford.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

ducks
moorhens
himalayan balsam
orange balsam
chicory
greylag geese
swallows
hawthorn
blackberries
water mint
a pheasant
red admirals
speckled wood butterflies
canada geese
amphibious bistort
crab apples
meadow's cranes-bill
purple loosestrife

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

It has been a lovely day's walking today and although it hasn't exactly been a scorcher it also hasn't rained for the first time in quite a few days. According to my phone I've walked 10.4 miles today which amounts to 22388 steps. 8 out of 10.

View oxford to abingdon in a larger map

the source of the thames to cricklade

July 24, 2014 by Mark Seymour in thames path

thames path

24th july 2014

Phew! What a scorcher!!

I start the day in a field! Not any old field, mind you. This field is called Trewsbury Mead and is the birthplace of the River Thames. A simple stone carved by the Thames Conservators (it's very hard to read now) and a pile of stones, underneath an ancient ash tree, marks the spring at the start of the River Thames. There's no sign of water today so the spring must be deep beneath my feet.

“The conservators of the River Thames
1857 - 1874
This stone was placed here to mark the
source of the River Thames”

Just as I begin to contemplate today's walk five people turn up at the source having completed their walk for the day. I thought this field was in the middle of nowhere! One person had set off from Lechlade at 5:30 this morning and was in training for a non stop walk/run of the Thames Path in August which he is expecting to complete in about 55 hours.

looking back to the source of the thames

After taking photos for some of the people completing their walk, I leave the crowded source of the Thames and head towards Kemble. I cross the busy Fosse Way otherwise known as the A433 and walk across more fields to reach the outskirts of Kemble.

I join a minor road at Parker's Bridge and wander along a small path between the road and the now flowing river and then pass cottages on the outskirts of the village of Ewen. I wander in to the village to visit the Wild Duck Inn which looks rather posh to me.

It seems that even the Cotswolds has a litter problem as I find several empty cans of Strongbow on the grass outside the pub.

I head back out of the village to regain the path and find the Thames again on the outskirts of the village where I find some cows enjoying the cooling water. I also see a kingfisher fly past me.

I amble along the Thames passing my first weir and then enter open meadows where I pass under some crackling power lines. I pass a family of swans feeding amongst the watercress.

I walk across a long wooden bridge to enter Neigh Bridge Country Park where I find a lake. Here I get lost as the signs are suddenly useless and I'm not alone as other walkers are wandering around trying to find any sign of the Thames Path.

Eventually I find some signage out on the main road so head down this road before turning down a gravel path and I start to walk through Cotswold Water Park (although it's not entirely clear where the park starts) which has not got WATER in its name for nothing. Suddenly there's water everywhere! There are water filled gravel pits either side of me (about 150 in total) and I pass many of them as I amble through the park and I cross the River Thames many times. The trouble is that the path is heavily vegetated so you only get fleeting glimpses of the lakes.

I pass through Flood Hatches Copse (apparently!) and enter the village of Ashton Keynes. Here I enjoy the charms of the Cotswold stone village. I then detour to visit the White Hart Inn which can be found just past one of the four preaching crosses in the village.

I walk along Back Street and then pass some houses on the outskirts of the village before entering a sports field and cross Ashton Keynes Millennium Green (which just seems to be a field!) and walk along a causeway between two more lakes.

There's some quicksand here which I manage to avoid and then I pass more lakes including a whopper of a lake, Manorbrook Lake, where I stop to watch a waterskier.

I leave Manorbrook through a gate and wander around Cleveland Lake to rejoin the Thames. The paths around here are full of butterflies and dragonflies but they prove to be elusive to photograph. Eventually I manage to photograph a small tortoiseshell.

Even though we haven't had any significant rain the paths around here are a bit muddy in places and I come across what seems to be a hawk moth caterpillar, although I'm not sure which one and it appears to be the worse for wear.

I pass Elmlea Meadow and the paths around here are looking lovely.

Here I manage to photograph my first brimstone butterfly of the season and it proves to be very obliging.

I walk along a track on the converted bed of the old railway and then reach a bridge on the line of the North Wiltshire Canal where some sheep are making an awful lot of noise.

A gate and steps lead down to North Meadow Nature Reserve, an old hay meadow and now a National Nature Reserve and Site of Special Scientific Interest. The meadow is a magical place in Spring when millions of snakes head fritillaries are in flower. I haven't visited the meadow for a while but I've included some photos from my last visit below.

The meadow still looks lovely on this beautiful summer's day and the tractors are out in force cutting the meadow for silage.

I follow the river bank and enter the village of Cricklade.

I pass though another meadow and my hay fever is playing up big time now! At the other side of the meadow a gate leads to Cricklade High Street.

There are plenty of pubs here including the Red Lion Inn (@theredlioncrick), the White Hart, and the Old Bear Inn. It's rather nice around here so I settle for some refreshments at the Red Lion Inn which I come to on the High Street straight away. They have an amazing selection of beer and I settle for a pint of Camden Hells Lager to cool me down and which is lovely, if expensive!

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

buzzards
pheasants
swifts
house martins
swallows
ducks
a kingfisher
peacock butterflies
wrens
watercress
dragonflies
cows
sheep
small tortoiseshell butterflies
brimstone butterflies
a hawk moth caterpillar

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via the iTunes store or listen using the player below.

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

It has been an absolute scorcher of a day today but I've been accompanied by a nice breeze for much of the day and I've had some shade. According to my phone I've walked 14 miles today which amounts to 30220 steps. It feels a bit weird not walking by the sea but even so the walking has been great even if it has been easy. 8 out of 10.

View source of the thames to cricklade in a larger map