the lizard to coverack

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

tuesday, 8th june 2021

Today's weather forecast looks great with sun all day long so it might be a bit on the warm side.

Lizard Point low tide 10:53

Lizard Point high tide 16:55

tide times.jpg

I return to the car park in the Lizard village first thing in the morning and wander down the footpath again towards Lizard Point, but instead of getting the dreaded 'No Signal' on my phone, I have a full on 4G signal.

I pass in front of the polbrean youth hostel where I can look down and see the familiar sight of masses of seagulls on Lizard Point.

polbrean youth hostel

seagulls on lizard point

I continue along the coast path in front of the lighthouse.

lighthouse

I pass the Housel Bay Hotel. It's a pleasant morning so I continue ambling around to the Lizard Marconi Wireless Station, the oldest surviving Marconi wireless station, but it seems to be closed at the moment.

lizard wireless station

I pass the Bass Point National Coastwatch Station. A plaque here tells me that on the 15th of January 2004, the Breton trawler ‘Bugaled Breizh’ sank off Lizard Point with five sailors losing their lives.

bass point

I head towards the Lizard Lifeboat Station at Kilcobben Cove, which, although it was only opened in May 2012, is surrounded in scaffolding. Every time I pass this place it seems to be undergoing repairs!

lizard lifeboat station

A stone memorial here tells me that on the night of the 29th December 1962 ‘The Ardgarry’ and her crew of twelve were lost in a storm off of this coast.

stone memorial

I reach a small habitation at Church Cove and head towards Cadgwith.

church cove

I leave Church Cove and come across a big clump of giant gunneras. From an unseen house I can hear someone tuning and then playing their guitar.

I come across a small copper butterfly feeding on scabious.

small copper butterfly

I head on towards Cadgwith, passing the Devil's Frying Pan, where the collapse of a sea cave has led to the creation of a 100 metre deep hole.

devil’s frying pan

On the outskirts of Cadgwith I come across a Jensen car which appears to be in immaculate condition. I think it must be a Jensen CV-8.

jensen cv-8

I reach flowery Cadgwith and enjoy the roses and poppies here before wandering down to the beach trying to avoid all of the fishing equipment left clumsily lying around! I amble around the beach. Leaving the beach, I pass the Cadgwith Cove Inn (@CadgwithCoveInn) before climbing out of the village in front of a row of cottages overlooking the harbour.

I continue to Poltesco Cove where a footbridge crosses a wooded river.

Here can be found the ruins of a serpentine works, once a thriving Victorian factory making mantlpieces, gravestones, shop fronts and polished ornaments made from the local serpentine stone quarried locally.

poltesco serpentine works

On leaving Poltesco I come across more pearl-bordered fritillaries. They prove to be hard to photograph but I do get one shot.

pearl-bordered fritillary

I continue on towards Kennack Sands, enjoying the views back over Poltesco. I reach Kennack Sands, pass the cafe here and wander down on to the beach to waste a bit of time. It can get popular here and is a lot busier than I’ve ever seen it before. There’s even a lifeguard service.

I walk across the beach and climb back up on to the cliffs, enjoying all of the wildflowers and wildlife on the low cliffs. I'm on my own now until I reach Coverack! I walk along easy paths over Eastern Cliff through gorse and heather passing Spernic Cove, Lankidden Cove, Butter Cove and Downas Cove to reach Beagles Point. It turns out I’m not alone as I do come across quite a few people.

heading towards beagles point

There have been butterflies fluttering around everywhere since leaving Kennack Sands, mostly speckled woods and pearl-bordered fritillaries but I did also see a couple of red admirals.

red admiral

I pass a memorial to the crew of Sea King XV702 who perished close to here on the night of the 21st March 1974.

sea king memorial

On Beagles Point I admire the view back to Lizard Point which will soon disappear from view.

view back to lizard point

I climb over the cliffs to reach the old coastguard lookout at Black Head. I turn in a northerly direction and enjoy the flora and fauna here. I come across one solitary orchid and not a particularly good specimen. I’m sure there used to be more orchids around here.

solitary orchid

Easy walking takes me on towards Coverack but before reaching the small fishing village, I have an awkward descent down to Porthbeer Cove which twists and turns all over the place and is strewn with rocks.

porthbeer cove

I leave the delightful Porthbeer Cove which I don’t think I’ve come across before and another awkward path takes me into Coverack where I pass the Lifeboat House Restaurant and the Paris Hotel and enter the village, passing the small harbour full of fishing boats.

Coverack is looking lovely on this summer's day. I pass St Peter's, the parish church here, and I would have dropped down to the beach, but it is much busier than I would have liked.

The last time I was here, Coverack had taken a battering in the winter storms but everything is fully repaired now.

I head to the car park where my lift awaits.

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • speckled wood butterflies

  • pearl-bordered fritillary butterflies

  • rabbits

  • house martins

  • red campion

  • rape

  • cow parsley

  • foxgloves

  • navelwort

  • ox eye daisies

  • bluebells

  • sea thrift

  • bladder campion

  • devils-bit scabious

  • common mallow

  • birds-foot trefoil

  • kidney vetch

  • wild carrot

  • borage

  • flag iris

  • english stonecrop

  • honeysuckle

  • wild garlic

  • gunnera

  • small copper butterfly

  • clover

  • hawthorn

  • pale flax

  • scarlet pimpernel

  • wood spurge

  • dropwort

  • red admiral butterfly

  • elderflower

  • poppies

  • roses

  • echiums

  • gladioli

  • agapanthus

podcast logo small.png

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

10 out of 10.png

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 12.6 miles which amounts to 30841 steps. It has taken me six hours. I’ve had glorious weather all day long and the flora and fauna has been magnificent. Ten out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

A familiar story now and two of my tracking apps failed me today, including my normally extremely reliable backup myTracks app. However my Ordnance Survey app actually worked.

MAP

small copper butterfly

pearl-bordered fritillary

red admiral

agapanthus

coverack

beach collection

the lizard to poldhu cove

SOUTH WEST COAST PATH

monday, 7th june 2021

Happy birthday to me
Happy birthday to me
Happy birthday dear me
Happy birthday to me!

The weather forecast for today looks to be great with sun all day long and it might actually be quite warm.

Porthleven low tide 10:10

Porthleven high tide 16:01

weather forecast.jpg
tide times.jpg

I start the day at the car park in the Lizard village next to the Top House Inn. I'm walking this walk to Poldhu Cove in the wrong direction so that when I reach Kynance Cove it should still be pretty quiet.

I wander down the footpath towards Lizard Point, the most southerly point on mainland Great Britain noticing that for the first time ever, I don’t have the dreaded 'no signal' on my phone, but instead have a 4G signal. I wander down to Lizard Point where masses of seagulls have congregated by the cafe.

seagulls on lizard point

There’s also a chough wandering around but I can’t get my camera out quick enough to photograph it and I’d have had the wrong lens on anyway. I amble down to the old lifeboat station  (I'll pass the latest lifeboat station tomorrow) and then climb back up and head off along the cliffs. Masses of seagulls are flying around here.

old lifeboat station

Choughs(@cornishchoughs) have taken up residence here. They became extinct in Cornwall in 1973 but returned in 2001. I don’t seem to be able to find any up to date and reliable breeding numbers but they seem to be doing ok. I see a few of them flying around but they are difficult to photograph.

I continue along the cliffs towards Kynance Cove enjoying the magnificent views and the lovely wildflowers.

I disturb a couple more choughs and they fly off before I have a chance to whip out my camera and I then come across a herd of cows together with their calves.

Before reaching Kynance Cove, Pentreath Beach can be found which is a little difficult to reach, involving scrambling down what appears to be little more than a goat track. It definitely looks worth the diversion but it's too adventurous for me with my heavy backpack.

pentreath beach

I amble along to reach Kynance Cove where I come across some of the native bloody cranesbills.

bloody cranesbill

The car park is looking quite busy even though it is still very early but there aren’t many people about so I descend steeply down to the cove.

For a change I’ve got quite a bit of beach so I waste quite a bit of time here. There are only a couple of people here. I strap back on my bag and climb back out of the cove, passing the Kynance Cove Cafe on the way up.

As I climb out of Kynance Cove I pass more of the native bloody cranesbills. The views back overlooking Kynance Cove are magnificent.

view over kynance cove

view over kynance cove

After ambling for far too long I head off along the Lizard cliffs where I encounter the first orchids of the day, including loads of heath spotted orchids so I waste more time, taking photographs.

An old schoolfriend of mine take her own life eight years ago yesterday. I last spoke to her the day before she died on the phone at this exact spot.

I amble along the top of the cliffs, enjoying the wildflowers.

I continue along the cliffs, enjoying the views to reach Predannack. Predannack airfield is nearby and there is usually a constant stream of helicopters flying overhead but it's quiet today. Maybe they don't fly on a Monday? The wild flowers around here are amazing and there's sea thrift everywhere. I come across ragged robin which I rarely see at home and a small patch of what looks like southern marsh orchids.

Mullion Cove comes into view and I have some kayaks racing past me down below.

kayaks

I take the steep descent down to the harbour. The last time I was here, Mullion Cove had taken a battering in winter storms and the harbour was badly damaged. It has now been fully repaired.

I ascend the other side of Mullion Cove and pass the Mullion Cove Hotel (@mullioncove).

mullion cove hotel

I head along the cliffs enjoying more of the wild flowers and pass Carrag-Luz or ‘Love Rock’.

carrag-luz

Above Polurrian Cove I come across an unfamiliar moth which, I think turns out to be a barred yellow moth.

barred yellow moth

I reach sandy Polurrian Cove. I waste more time pottering along the sandy beach before climbing back out of Polurrian Cove and heading along the cliffs.

polurrian cove

polurrian cove

I stop briefly at a bench which has magnificent views to let some dog walkers pass me.

If ever our souls part to say goodbye
meet me there, where the sea meets the sky;
lost, but finally free.

I pass the Marconi monument, a granite monument commemorating the first transatlantic radio transmission on the 12th of December 1901. I think that Marconi probably had a better signal 100-odd years ago than I've had today although, to be fair, I think I’ve got a 3G signal here but the sun is too bright for me to be able to see my phone screen properly. I continue along the cliffs enjoying the masses of pink sea thrifts.

marconi monument

As I descend to Poldhu Cove a chough flies across my horizon, calling as it goes. What a lovely end to the day.

descending to poldhu cove

I reach Poldhu Cove where the Poldhu Beach Cafe (@poldhu) can be found and waste more time on the sandy beach. It's quite a bit busier here than I'm used to but not too bad for a sunny summer’s day.

poldhu cove

poldhu cove

FLORA AND FAUNA

Flora and fauna encountered on the walk today includes :-

  • seagulls

  • choughs

  • ribwort plantain

  • mesembryanthemum

  • foxgloves

  • bluebells

  • red and white campion

  • wild carrot

  • bladder campion

  • cows

  • sea thrift

  • kidney vetch

  • dropwort

  • birds-foot trefoil

  • bloody cranesbill

  • heath spotted orchid

  • common dog-violet

  • scarlet pimpernel

  • devils-bit scabious

  • ragged robin

  • southern marsh orchid

  • flag iris

  • rape

  • barred yellow moth

podcast logo small.png

PODCAST

The podcast of today's walk is now available. You can subscribe via Apple Podcasts or listen using the player below.

10 out of 10.png

MARKS OUT OF TEN?

According to my phone I've walked 10.75 miles which amounts to 25616 steps. It has taken me five and a quarter hours. I’ve had glorious weather all day long and the flora and fauna has been magnificent. Ten out of ten!

WALK DETAILS

For a change two out of three of my tracking apps have actually worked today so I have some walk details. They don’t entirely match up but there you go.

MAP

heath spotted orchid

southern marsh orchid

sea thrift

ragged robin

beach collection